Hell rattle when engine is cold

[tufflux07]

Hi all,my 2007 hilux has a very loud engine noise when its cold.Not sure if it is injectors or something else.When it warms up its fineTurbo diesel engine [sorry]Anybody got any ideas>>>cheersIm running penrite 5w40 oil and since ive used this oil its gotten worse

[Manxman]

km? 40 weight is a bit light-how long does it take to go quiet-when the oil light goes off? also-check your harmonic ballancer-if it has separated it will need replacing immediately. $$$$. test by trying to lever pulleys fore and aft-ANY movement and it's dead.

[linuxone66]

Yeah our 07 did the same thing at about 135000ks just started all of a sudden. good news is its not too bad a deal. Perhaps :)

It sounds like a gudgeon pin letting go? Listen carefully with a steel rod or something to the motor and you will hear that there is only one "knock" not two like a gudgeon pin will make - caveat here - I'm not as mechanic but I have been around motors all my life, so get expert opinions!

All the info I could read about it pointed to the injectors stuffing up, not a good sign as its expensive if Toyota do it and for some reason they wont put "alternative good" ones in, they replace with the same type which means that after a while they will also do it.

Alternatives are to replace them yourself if mechanically minded or pay someone to do it for you.

If you get the better ones from somewhere, they were available on eBay at one point, you can get them for a lot less than Toyota will sell them to you.

But Toyota will only sell you the ones for your model, yep the BAD ones again.

After a lot of soul searching I decided to experiment with ours, hoping like hell I didn't live to regret it :)

So I worked the guts out of the ole Ute.

I mean I really loaded her up and drove for hours in 3rd and 4th to really give her a work out, this will get the injectors really hot and cleans them up nicely.

Plus I used some injector cleaner for good measure.

Now by "really loaded" I mean about 20 x 9ft sleepers and a trailer with another 20 behind, they were about an hours drive at normal speed, 110 here in West Aus, and hilly, but we crawled back at about 80 max down hill letting the engine take the strain of slowing down, not using brakes much.

After doing this twice, we had a lot of landscaping to do, the ole girl has not made even the slightest rattle and we did this almost two years ago.

My thinking is that the previous owner was using that crappy bio-diesel and just pottering around slowly gumming up the works.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Wayne

[Trem86]

In a previous post, we discussed the most common symptoms of a failing injector, and what exactly causes each one of these symptoms. But what exactly does it mean when your local garage tells you common rail injector failure? To begin with, lets take a look at these injectors, compared to the older systems.

Looking at the situation from the outside, these newer injectors have to work at pressures that are basically double what the older systems worked at, and they are required to inject three to five times per stroke, which is of course three to five times more often. To make these pressures and number of injections possible, tolerances have been reduced, and new technologies have been employed. The fact that many of these injectors will see upwards of 150,000-200,000 kms is therefore quite impressive.

These injectors have done an awful lot of work by the time that 150,000-odd kms come around. But what exactly makes them fail? To date, BDG has blueprinted over 8,000 of these injectors, and here are the three main common rail injector failures that we discover.

The Three Main Causes of Common Rail Injector Failure

1.) The injector simply stops - This is caused by a short in the injector coil. From all of the injectors that we have built, we have failed less than 20.

2.) High fuel consumption - The nozzle orifice is very important to the overall engine performance and economy. The sizing of these holes governs the flow rates and the level of atomisation achieved inside the cylinder. Over time, (and being subjected to pressures up to 160 bar) these holes enlarge, which generates poor atomisation and increases the fuel consumption. This wear occurs in the nozzle body, not the spindle. BDG estimates the number of injectors seeing this failure (based on component condition) to be approximately 5%.

3.) Cold knock - By now a well-known phenomenon in the Hilux, the car makes heavy detonation noises only when cold. By the time it is warm, you would not know that there were any issues. This failure represents around 95% of ALL injectors seen by BDG, and it is by far the main cause of failure in these injectors.

In our experience, this failure is caused by the main spindle down the centre of the injector. It starts to pick up in the bore, just like a seized liner and piston, only on a smaller scale. The issue is most prominent when the vehicle is cold, and the tolerances are at the minimum. Friction is at its highest, and actually holds the injector open for longer, over-fuelling the individual cylinder.

In our next post, we will discuss some exciting new developments that will greatly extend the life of the injector by avoiding the main common rail injector injector failure, the cold knock.

[Manxman]

Thanks, that's a good tech minded article explaining in simple terms what's happening. I guess it's an indication that the injectors need servicing or replacement?

[GC_AUS]

I don't want to panic you but do a goggle search on "Hilux Death Rattle" & have a read of some of those to make sure you find the cause.

also check out Baileys diesel group - no I don't work for them & no I don't get any kick back but they do have a good rep & they seem pretty well onto this problem

good luck with it

I see the post above is pasted from one of their articles so you might have already been there sorry.

Edited August 18, 2014 by GC_AUS

[vornez]

The pickup screen inside the oil sump needs checking for carbon residue. Often blow by gases leak out of the injectors, which eventually clog up the pickup screen. If you drain the oil from the sump, you can shine a torch through the drain hole, spray a little degreaser onto the mesh. Some meshes have complete carbon buildup and oil is being sucked through a hole the size of a pea.

[Peterbuckland36.]

Hi there I just read your post I’ve got a load of oil or black sh t down the back of my engine got a bad rattle when cold once warmed up the trucks top class any help