What Alternator can I use in my HiLux (1981)?

[81Luxy]

Hi guys, I am new to this forum, but not new to 4WDing. Forgive me if this is in the wrong section, or there is a similar post already existing; I did do my research before hand :)

I bought a 2.2 Liter Diesel 1981 Hilux (LN46) and I took it out in the mud the first day I got it. Soon after, all the dash lights came on and the alternator was no longer charging :(

I have taken it out, got it tested at the autoelectrics and they quoted me $400 to refurbish it (apparently it was stuffed) or $450 for a new one.

The truth is, I paid $1000 for the lux as a 'bash-around' so I am not willing to pay nearly half the price of the car after one 4WD trip.

My question is: What other alternators will bolt straight into my engine bay, e.g. what other Toyota models? My alternator DOES have a oil/vacuum pump at the BACK of the alternator. I want to get away from this cheap, so I am looking around at wreckers, but I am not sure which models are interchangeable with mine.

Thanks heaps!

[Manxman]

depending whats wrong, you might get away with a $10 repair by replacing the brushes. For a bit more you can recut the sliprings and replace the bearings-say $40. The recifier, if needed, is more difficult, but any >=50A 3 phase rectifier that will fit will do the job. Don't overheat it!. The external regulator should be ok. and unless theres dirt in the vac pump, it should be fine. The hardest parts are undoing the old case screws, (cut and replace) and stopping the solder from wicking up the brush leads. (use a heat sink-pliers etc.) I'll guide you thru it if you like, but check utube etc first.

oversize brushes can be hand filed to neat fit as long as their wires aren't further exposed or weakened. Sparky shops don't like doing cheap rebuilds-there's much more $$ in a new unit-which you prob don't need.

brushes-ebay

bearing are common-see bearing retailer.

a largesoft jaw vice or pipe wrench and a socket to fit the front nut.

Edited June 24, 2014 by Manxman

[81Luxy]

depending whats wrong, you might get away with a $10 repair by replacing the brushes. For a bit more you can recut the sliprings and replace the bearings-say $40. The recifier, if needed, is more difficult, but any >=50A 3 phase rectifier that will fit will do the job. Don't overheat it!. The external regulator should be ok. and unless theres dirt in the vac pump, it should be fine. The hardest parts are undoing the old case screws, (cut and replace) and stopping the solder from wicking up the brush leads. (use a heat sink-pliers etc.) I'll guide you thru it if you like, but check utube etc first.

oversize brushes can be hand filed to neat fit as long as their wires aren't further exposed or weakened. Sparky shops don't like doing cheap rebuilds-there's much more $$ in a new unit-which you prob don't need.

brushes-ebay

bearing are common-see bearing retailer.

a largesoft jaw vice or pipe wrench and a socket to fit the front nut.

Awesome, thanks for that info!

We ended up buying a second hand alternator off a wrecker for $165, although we had to swap in our broken one (I wanted to fix it :( ). It seems to be working fine now, although, when I put a multimeter to it whilst idling it seems to only be charging at around 13volts. I know with a lot of other cars (petrols) they charge at around 14volts.

It seems to be charging fine, there is no dimming of lights as we drive, although 13volts just seems low. Is it because it's diesel?

Cheers

[Manxman]

13V is a bit low for AVERAGE charging voltage, but hat could be a battery prob too. NB therse early alts were weak, and had top be upgraded in later models! 14.2V charging is normal, but your regulator is old, and can be adjusted-though theres more proffit in a new one, i'd expect.