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Hilux idle is backwards!


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HI All,

I have a 2003 Hilux D-Cab 2.7lt petrol. She sat for a few months while I was away on biz and when I started her up on return she was idling slower than normal (700rpm) and once she was warmed up the idle went to 1200 rpm. I've reset the ECU and still idling high when warm and low when cold. She's backwards.

Any clues??



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Is it really cold just now on 1st startup? Heavy oil/motor drag when cold slows motor on cold startup. walk around car-smell exhaust at startup whilst slow running--does it smell of fuel? Is your fast idle injector working? It's the extra one nearer the throttle body than the rest. motor temp sensor might be out of range too. Have a power improver mod? They're used to reset the inlet air temp lower than std and thus run the motor richer to get more power. Cheap, crude, might work sometimes. fitted into air mass meter device wiring-sometimes selectable/adjustable Power ranges from dash. Possible fuel pressure regulator/fuel filter/alternator/fuel pump fail Pressure test common rail fuel supply, see alt charges battery at idle. Also put warmed motor under sustained upper rpm hi load (heavy load & uphill) - see it doesn't fuel starve and lose power. reportfindings pls

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Quote; Also put warmed motor under sustained upper rpm hi load (heavy load & uphill) - see it doesn't fuel starve and lose power. report findings pls; Unquote;

So what your asking him to do is load it up to the hilt, find a decent size hill and rev the sh*t out of it holding in the upper reaches of its rev limiter :blink:. Please explain further how this is going to solve Sigsbee IDLE PROBLEM as I am interested :whistling:

and for oil to cause an engine to vary by 500rpm due to heavy viscosity !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :help:

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Never meant him to drive it beyond reasonable normal operating conditions for which it is designed nor break the law. A a good load and at rev up a hill will test the fuel delivery capacity of the system-and indicate whether there's a starvation problem. No extremes intended, though they do test more deeply. Starvation from poor fuel pressure gives bad idles, and he may not get to the revs & load needed to proove starvation in a daily run.

Motors do run tight/slow when cold-maybe the example offered was extreme, but it was a thing to be considered-that it was [very] cold and it might be normal for that motor [petrol] and if the oil is too heavy, or some internal cold only friction-there's a problem. The initial diagnosis of an air leak is still possible, I was considering what else was probable-if less likely. I'll confess I don't know the motor, but some have an extra injector for cold starting nearer the butterfly, others just richen the mixture till it warms up with extended pulses. The latter sounds cheaper to effect, but both have been used.

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HI Guys,

Thanks for the info. I've checked all the vacuum lines and nothing leaking. She runs fine and plenty power but she is sucking fuel like crazy. No fumes on start up and it's not cold enough here to affect the oil for a labored start.

Just on start up with a cold engine it's idling at 700 and once warmed up is hitting 1200-1500 RPM. She's just bass-akwards.

Just might need a trip to the Toyota garage.

Thanks again and I'll post what it was when I find out.

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No harm done.

BTW have you checked your air filter for clean? I do know a person whom ran an hiace for 7yrs on one airfilter..... When I changed it it ran much better.

Also check ALL inlet pipes and devices [esp plastic/rubber ones] from AMM device to head for leaks-[put a little oil on joints and see if its drawn in].

Clean throttlebody and make sure the butterfly adjustment is correct. It's common for efi cars to have a bypass air passage for idling-this is not good, because a worn butterfly brg/shaft will leak air, and wreck the idle.

Check for play at butterfly on both sides. They can be re-bushed, but make sure the plate is well-secured to the shaft, as the screws can do great damages when they get swallowed.

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