Highly recommend that you read Tony's initial post so that you know the correct procedure. It will save you from a lot of trials and errors until you get the desirable end result of a smoothly changing transmission.
Following YouTube video by The Car Nut emphasises getting the fluid level correct. I noted how he described/defined the ATF fluid changing to a trickle. Original Toyota procedure was having the ATF fluid changing to a series of drops. This difference in methods would explain adding the additional 200ml.
Following shortcuts/workarounds are suggested only after you know how get the correct fluid level. It also assumes that your transmission currently has the correct fluid level and the ATF is cold.
Method : Drain and replace the exact same amount of ATF.
For this, I have used a number of 1.5litre plastic bottles to compare levels between the drained ATF and the new ATF. I have found this to be very accurate. With this method, you do not need to have the engine running and it can have the benefit of being able to change more of the ATF.
Method 2: Do the ATF change procedure without measuring temperature. I am located in Brisbane so more likely to use this method later in the morning after ambient temperature has increased. You will need to be organised and move quickly.
I start with parking the car on a level driveway and measuring the ride height for the front passenger wheel. Jack up front passenger and remove wheel to be able to access the transmission fill plug.
Remove the fill plug and inserting a plastic tube ready for the refill. I use a length of plastic tube and a funnel inserted down near the battery to the side of the transmission.
Remove the drain plug and internal fill level plastic straw for the pan drain. Lower passenger side to the previously measured ride height. Refit the plastic straw and finger tighten the drain plug. Fill with new ATF; at least same volume as drained.
Start the (cold overnight) engine and with foot pressed down on the brake pedal then cycle through the gears Park , Neutral, Drive then back to Park. I use a slow count of 10 for each gear change. Remove drain plug then refit after drain of ATF has slowed to a series of drops.
Turn off engine and add another 200ml of ATF. Tighten fill plug and refit wheel.
On a final note, there is another video by The Car Nut where he talks when you should be replacing the ATF. This made me realise that I had been doing too many frequent pan drains and causing more wear on the friction plates. A pan drain approx. every 2 years should now be quite adequate for my vehicle.
I just took it to another mechanic who seem to be a bit more knowledgeable about these things so he actually witness my fuel gauge dropping fluctuate and go back up again he said all that is it the sending unit on the way out he said it's not really much of a concern at the moment overtime obviously it will deteriorate but he said it they can last for a long time like that without causing much harm as long as I'm getting the actual fuel that's in the tank it should be fine for a little while.
As for the smell I'm getting on hard throttle coming into the cabin he said it is a common thing on the cars and it's not what you may think it is. He showed me on the back of the firewall there's foam supposed to cover the fumes coming into the cabin and he discovered that the foam in mine has shrunk and there is a hole there and all I have to do is put some foam in there
I tend to agree with that and it makes sense too. But the natural reaction would be to tense up. Presence of mind is a valuable thing in instances like this, especially if you see it coming. Generally the accidents you don't see coming, often have you limbered up and in most cases very minimal injuries occur depending on speed and place of impact, of course and airbags play a vital role in injury prevention.
We are lucky to have these 5 star ratings in the modern era. Modern cars are so much safer than those of yesteryear, that's for sure.
I totally agree with that. The car will suffer both frontal and rear damage if pushed into the preceding car, which is why insurance is good to have in case the jackass who hit you hasn't any.
I believe Toyota initiated this bulletin because of the fact that some may drain a bit too much fluid as the fluid is continuing to expand and potentially have gone over the 45 degree mark. Doesn't take much to overshoot both if you're not paying attention and so the 200 ml will correct any discrepancy.
I'm not 100% sure, but if you try and do a fluid adjustment at say 40 degrees, you may not need the extra 200 ml. That's something that can be confirmed I guess in the test drive at which point if you experience any unusual shift patterns, then you can easily enough top it up and go from there.
My pleasure. I did the detailed write up especially for people like yourself and I'm happy it was of some use to you.
No, it's not necessary. The reason I did a full flush as because I was going to use the Penrite LV fluid and a pan drain would mean for me some Penrite and the rest Toyota's WS fluid.
Me being the fussy person that I am, I didn't wan to mix up two brands of fluid. Either have on or the other, so that meant a full flush. Being a low mileage vehicle and a transmission in excellent order, a full flush was always possible.
The reason why some mechanics don't recommend a full flush, it's mainly aimed at much older vehicles with high mileage. and by fully flushing the fluid, it can alter the behaviour of the transmission and slippage may occur between the bands.
I'll explain. When an old transmission circulates old fluid, it usually carries around with it the debris from the clutches. Not a bad thing and not a good thing either, but things can still go wrong if the debris builds to a point where it clogs the filter an the valve body. So it has to be a gently, gently approach and by doing a pan drain, you are not removing the friction material circulating in the fluid on which the old clutches still rely on and you get to partly refresh the fluid pressures on which the transmission relies on. Usually at that stage it is inevitable the trans will either need an overhaul anyway.
So a well maintained and well cared for transmission can be either pan drained or fully flushed in my opinion. Just be weary of the higher miler units. Approach those gently.
Not too sure, I haven't looked into the fill hole to see myself. I would strongly recommend taking the pan off to inspect for any metal filing captured by the pan magnets though. This will give you an opportunity to clean the pan and the magnets and replace the old pan gasket. I made the mistake of using a generic service kit, in that it had an after market fluid filter and a cork sump gasket. Cork is ok but doesn't stand up to the original Toyota gasket. I have since purchased one and is on standby for the next service, which will be a pan drain, because I know the fluid in mine is good following the previous flush. Mind you, my transmission, at the time, was carrying the original factory fill fluid. So now it is running the Penrite LV and will continue to use it.
It drives as good as it ever has. Absolutely no change. I did the fluid change at 123K and it's now at approximately 142K and still drives like a new car.
Shifts are smooth and precise. I can honestly say that it's never put a foot wrong. Great car !
How many kays are on your Aurion and do you have a full service history ? More to the point, do you have history on the trans ?
I'm currently looking for my first 4wd and have settled on getting an older Hilux (1997-2004) as I really like the shape and of course for their reliability. I am currently quite interested in a 1998 extra cab diesel with 290k kms.
In about the last year and a half its had a new radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses, fan belts, ac adjuster, idler bearing, can clutch, timing belts, ac pulley, new clutch, clutch fork, slave cylinder, master cylinder, read diff, away bar links, rear main oil seal, gearbox and transfer oil. It also has airbag rear suspension, suspension and body lift and front air lockers. It does have an exhaust leak. I also really like the colour, it's the lighter green teal colour.
The blokes asking 14k for it and isn't budging. Just wanted some opinions from people more knowledgeable than myself to whether this is a good buy. It is within my budget but wondering if this is a reasonable price as although I do like the car very much there are others quite a bit cheaper. Cheers
Hi Tony, thank you very much for such a detailed description of oil change in Aurion's transmission. Please tell me: - is it necessarily to do a full flash of trans system? Some mechanics advised just to replace the oil which is in pan drain and put back same amount and same type of fluid back to transmission. Is it possible to drain the fluid from the pan by syphoning it from the filler hole? In this case there is no need to remove the pan at all.
How the transmission in your car starts to behave after fluid and filter changed?
Kind Regards, Eugene