SOLVED: Camry CSI 4cyl 1996 ECU injector problem

[OldMech]

Jim, and any others interested. It is a 'Fuel Pump operation check' I was referring to but which serves the the purpose of pushing some juice up the fuel line. But first one needs the Haynes Repair Manual for your vehicle to follow my directions.

In that manual, mine anyway, page 4A-4 down the bottom left, a little paragraph heading: 'Fuel Pump operation check'. You have to locate a particular plug and socket on the firewall passenger side and its pin numbers in a diagram on the Manual's paticular page. It does seem to be year specific as Dave has posted in his latest entry. Worth looking for anyway... Going well Dave. Wave to Rotto for me. I see some stupidity by tourists on our Quokkas!! We're a smart lot nowadays! Cheers. Laurie.

Edited April 14, 2015 by OldMech

[Sploddy]

In my manual Laurie its page 4-2. (P3.2). My check connector is totally different than the one in the manual. But has FP and +B terminals. Also my connector is mounted on the rear of the left shock housing.

Just went out and checked it.

Yeh, those little Quokkas have a really bad time with some of those moronic tourists. They are an endangered species. But setting fire to them - That's really sick.

[OldMech]

All agreed Dave.

[Jim.]

Thanks for the description of the "Fuel Pump Operation Check".

I will have a look in my digital service manual. It consists of two CD's I bought online some years ago and so far has been very good. The indexing is a bit convoluted though and it can take some time to find what you want in it. Otherwise, I have not been able to fault it.

edit:

I just looked in my manual and there is no description of the above operation.

To check the fuel pump pressure, it describes the fitting of a pressure guage by doubling up the banjo fitting on top of the fuel filter. I am surprised the retaining bolt will have enough thread to retain two banjo fittings, as depicted in the pictures.

Hopefully, I will never have to use this.

I have a spare fuel pump assembly in the shed anyway.

Nice to have a couple of trunks full of spares for my old Camry!

Edited April 15, 2015 by Jim.

[Sploddy]

Time has moved along since this saga began and I am now 100%++ sure that the problems was fixed by the injector change, I have spoken to a couple of of mechanics since, plus the original one, when the problem first reared its ugly head. All agreed that it is an extremely rare event for an injector to break down and then behave like nothing happened. To this day they all read within the accepted parameters when checked with a DVM set on 200ohms. (I will have them checked later to satisfy my own curiosity)

The car has now clocked up over 600 km since the injector change and as stated the car has not run sweeter since I bought it a year ago. I am also getting up 10% better fuel economy, This included hauling the trailer and some open road driving.

I have now decided to spend a few DB and tidy up a few issues like struts and tyres

I got a quote for 4 replacement struts of $1400 (gulp!) so decided I would do them myself and yesterday I changed out the fronts, $180 (Aussie made with 3 year warranty. I also invested in an electric torque wrench ($99) and a pair of spring compressers (Twin hooks - made in Poland) ($21) all of which were post free.

Following a tutorial on EBay, took me a total of 5 hours to the test drive and basically was a fairly easy job. - In three weeks time I will purchase the rears from the same place ($150) They should be even easier to fit having no transmission drive to contend with.

Incidently the struts on the car appear to original and were totally useless, I recall the mech who serviced the the car in January making a note that the shocks were leaking and needed replacement. Understatement of the year, no they were not leaking, - the was nothing left to leak on both front and rears! So my DIY job will only come to $450. plus I now have a torque wrench which proved itself to be most valuable and I very much doubt I would have moved the 22mm nuts and bolts manually with a socket set.

If anyone wants to know where I sourced my parts and tools PM me or post a request and I can add them here. But they were all available on Australian EBay here in Perth and in the Eastern states. One final comment always check with seller with VIN and full details of model. As previously mentioned earlier, there are a large number of variations in the vehicles assembled in AU 1995 - 1997. Some sellers are lumping struts in that period which are incompatible.

Cheers, Dave.

[Jim.]

That is all good news Dave.

I am interested in all the details of the struts that you obtained and fitted. Is the price above for each strut or a pair?

The electric torque wrench also sounds interesting. Any links would be appreciated.

All the best,

Jim.

[OldMech]

Going well David. Re the rarity of the injectors breaking down. All electrical/mechanical items anywhere are prone to failure under heat and working conditions. I shudder when I hear about the cleverness of developments in the auto field, particularly as with various 'clever' electronically controlled driving systms. viz: the tragic failure of spacecraft electro mechanical systems. Cars driving on freeways suddenly stoppping or out of control engine or braking systems.

Our reasonably conventional Camrys are deserving of trust.

Good luck with the rest of your projected work there. I like soft shockers. Some I've struck are too hard - for my comfort and pleasurable driving. Best wishes for happy W.A. driving. I love it.

Laurie.

Edited May 2, 2015 by OldMech

[Sploddy]

In reply to Jim and Laurie, I have to agree that modern technology is far from perfect, automotive control systems have become very complex and in many cases have been an embarrassment to the manufacturers. Over the last few months I have met and heard of people experiencing complete writeoffs of brand new vehicles, due to electronic failures. Not as expensive as the recent Soyuz cargo space craft (Progress 59) now out of control !! http://tinyurl.com/o8p7kz8

When I have completed the strut changeout, I will write up a new post on "How to replace your struts for under $500" - Yes Jim, the prices given above are for pairs and my total cost including special tools will be $450. (including special tools)

Finding an outlet that carries the struts you need, may take a little searching, depending on the model and year of your vehicle. I got mine from "cvjoint_shockabsorber" on Ebay

I found them very courteous and helpful, the shocks they carry are Australian made with a 3 year warranty.

The Impact Wrench is a "Unimac" and again sold by Australian outlets on EBay starting at $89 (specs 240V/50hz no load 2300 Power output 900 watts Torque 300Nm square drive 1/2" wgt 3.5kg) It is not a toy and performs as well if not better than a pnuematic torque wrench. (Checking on EBay today its now selling at $79 link below)

Spring compressers vary from either 1 or 2 hook types, I purchased the twin hook version and paid $21, you can pay more than $50 but they are all virtually the same. The 2 hook does add a wider gripping surface in the spring coils. (WARNING Extreme caution and safety practises must always be used when handling compressed springs - Up to 1000lbs pressure can be present)

Using a ratchet wrench can be laborious and the Torque Wrench makes it easy, but I stress very strongly use with extreme caution, using only short touches of the trigger.

As to the ride, I will report on that after the rears have been installed in about 3 weeks time in a new and separate post after I have had a test drive on local/freeway/dirt roads. But at the moment the fronts appear to be medium to firm

Links:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300847119813?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/190864277866?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/130617193722?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Disclaimer: The information given here is given in good faith and believed correct at time of posting. It is the full responsibility of anyone purchasing any of these items to follow safe practises and accept any loss, injury or death arising from using these items. Changing out shock absorbers (Struts) can present a danger to inexperienced persons.

Cheers Dave

(Self maintained a 1972 TA22 Celica over 25 years/500,000 miles)

[trentmeyer23]

This is all going very off topic. I am going to close it and modify the title to solved.