rear axle bearing out of place?

[Joar Gruneau]

I was about to change brake shoes when i noticed that the brake drum on the left side is almost a cm further out from the axle than the right. The backing plate is also lose and can move about a cm up and down along the axle. If i push the backing plate outwards so that the outer seals look like the other side my bearing sticks out a bit at the back (see picture)

Since I don't know how it's supposed to look i thought i might as before I take the axle to a mechanic to refit new bearings and the abs and so on... What do you think, is it the fitting that is the problem?

thank you for your help

Bast regards Joar

[trentmeyer23]

The hub may also be worn. Good move taking it to a mechanic.

[Manxman]

Do both sides. Bearings & seals are cheap, [unless OEM] and a new retainer ring is essential for each side. It's best left to people who often do them, as they're quick, and have all the tools. If you take the axles to mech then he'll have it all done in 30min or less, unless other problem. Warning: Some mechs refuse to use parts they don't supply. It's both a con to make money and, supposedly, an insurance that parts are correct and suitable. Sometimes it's justifiable.

Edited August 17, 2015 by Manxman

[Manxman]

Check/change diff oil-it's been leaking and may have contaminants. wipe magnetic plug with tissue/toilet paper. anything solid attached to it is sign of trouble. Could have light coat of fine metalic sludge and be ok, hard particles are trouble. Water ingress is possible-grey, creamy oil-might pay to remove diff center and clean and check it. also check tailshaft center bearing and universals/CV joint. They're getting old enough to make it wise. Whilst they're off, check brakes, and if car is close to a 14yr cycle of it's age, then replace slave cylinders now too, as they'll be due about then and it will save an early repeat strip down. Cheap ones are abt $40, AFAIR.

Edited August 17, 2015 by Manxman

[Joar Gruneau]

thank you for all the help, i realized that the reason that the left axle won't go in fully is because the retard that did it the last time installed it the wrong way on the left axle. On the right it is retainer, abs-ring, c-clip, retainer and then bearing but on the left the c-clip and the inner retainer have change place :/

I looked into the diff house and the oil is clean and clear so don't think it has come in any water. But still a good idea to change while I'm doing the rest. Replacing slave cylinder sounds like a easy DIY jobb.

I will look at the U/cv-joint and bearing tomorrow. Do you need special tools like a hydraulic press to change tail-shaft bearing and universal/cv joint? I really don't like taking it to the mechanic so would like to do it myself if you can do it with basic tools.

Edited August 17, 2015 by Joar Gruneau

[Manxman]

center brg is easy, taps/slides off, CV requires replacement parts-and some brute force-messy or whole shaft. easier to pay to have it done 20min or less to sort. universals are easy. Do NOT use a dented tailshaft-it will be weakened and perhaps fail. Glad that you found whats been done. Test brg fit in axle housing to be sure the housing hasn't worn. New brg need a rubber seal on outer side only, the inner one can be pulled off to allow oil into brg. Clean axle housing on loose side to remove any grit which may have got in. Clean all parts [except brgs] before reassembly. BTW check flexible brake hoses all round-they're getting old, and you can't afford a rupture.

[Joar Gruneau]

I have ordered my haynes manual but it hasn't arrived yet so right no I'm relying on write ups on forums and videos. I looked at the u-joint and the one near the diff has a small play in rotation but doesn't seem that bad to me. Is there a cv on all drive-shafts or is it different on different models? ( I don't know how to locate it or how to check it for wear). Mine is a two piece with a u-joint in the front and then the center bearing and then something that looks like two u-joints close together and then the u-joint near to the diff house which has some play. I can ad it has only driven 170 000 km.

I also looked at the center bearing and it has about 1 cm of play if I push it up or down, but judging from what others said that it seems to be fine. There is no vibration while driving. I will change the brake lines in the rear since they are rusty so will look trough the flexible parts as well.

Edit: thing is i'm also a bit short on time before i need the truck again so even thou the rear u-joint probably needs replacing soonish it would be nice if it could wait a a few month

Edited August 18, 2015 by Joar Gruneau

[Joar Gruneau]

also checked the magnet for the drain plug found not a single large particle so seems the incorrect installment haven't caused any serious damage :) really happy about that