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BRAKE FLUID


krigeroz

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I usually get away with (1) 500mm maybe you could buy (2) if you have not done it before just to be on the safe side.

DOT 3 http://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/products/cars/brake-fluids/brake-fluid-dot-3.html is specified by Toyota I'm sure plenty of others are using DOT 4 but I just stick to the recommended not being an expert on the stuff.

 

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Thanks for the thread Krigeroz.

You have just reminded me that i need to do this soon too.

Dot 3 fluid is the specified type mate. (I'm sure you found this in your trusty handbook)

I'd get two 500ml bottles and if you get through the 2nd one, at least you're being thorough and don't forget the extra travel the fluid has to go due to the ABS unit. So 2 x 500ml bottles minimum.

If I get to do mine before you do, I'll post back the result.

Here's a handy tool I purchased a while back to do my motorcycle. Works a treat and you don't need two people to do it either.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hand-Held-Vacuum-Pump-Brake-Bleeder-Kit-Tool-Set-Car-/380980468155?hash=item58b43499bb:g:wZoAAOSwPe1T-pHE

 

Edited by Tony Prodigy
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Previously, I have used DOT4 instead of DOT3 in my various vehicles over the years. Will consider using DOT5.1 because of its higher boiling point. 

DOT3 fluid is supposedly a bit cheaper than DOT4 but I prefer to have the higher specification.

Following URLs explain the different brake fluid specifications.

https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/brake-fluid-explained.129355/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid

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Avoid DOT 5.1. While it has a higher boiling point, that's only ever going to be a factor on a race track, and, even then, if you're boiling your brake fluid you have bigger things to worry about. It has a much higher water absorption rate that DOT 3 or 4, meaning it needs to be changed sooner. Stick to good old DOT 4. You can get away with 1x 500ml bottle, but depending on how much you bleed the lines it would be safer to buy 2x 500ml bottles just to be on the safe side. Just don't keep the unused fluid to top up the reservoir for when the fluid drops down in future (pad wear etc), as once you've cracked the seal on the bottle it will start to slowly absorb water by sitting. So any unused new fluid should be disposed of or used in the bottom of the bottle you use for bleeding the brakes.

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This quote is directly from RDAs website. Which can be found here: 

http://www.rdabrakes.com.au/page/TB04.aspx

Quote

The rating of the fluid your car was delivered with should be maintained unless you upgrade the internal components to handle this upgrade. All seals, brake hoses and fittings are designed and tested relevant to the chemical composition of the brake fluid to be used. Simply replacing with a higher grade brake fluid (replacing Dot3 with dot 4 for instance) gives rise to the impact the slightly different composition (the borate ester) might have on your braking system. The viscosity difference (thickness) can effect the wear rates on seals etc and cause squeaks to develop. So it’s best to stay with the same brake fluid type, but maybe go for a higher operating range within the same dot fluid, rather than jump up to a higher dot rated fluid.

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6 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Here's a handy tool I purchased a while back to do my motorcycle. Works a treat and you don't need two people to do it either.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hand-Held-Vacuum-Pump-Brake-Bleeder-Kit-Tool-Set-Car-/380980468155?hash=item58b43499bb:g:wZoAAOSwPe1T-pHE

 

Interesting, I did not know that you need a special tool to replace the break fluid...

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50 minutes ago, krigeroz said:

Interesting, I did not know that you need a special tool to replace the break fluid...

You don't, you can use a piece of clear flexible hose that is the correct size for the bleed nipple and an old clear bottle.

One man bleeders and pressure bleeders do help if you have no one to assist.

If you are not confident in what you are doing, DO NOT attempt to bleed the brakes, have a professional do it. If you mess it up , you can kill people.

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I agree totally Trent. You have to have some mechanical aptitude when you undertake servicing yourself especially when it comes to brakes,

Not to scare anyone off, it's not an entirely difficult thing to bleed your brakes. You just have to be careful not to introduce air into the system.

Krigeroz. Like Trent said. The use of pressure bleeders are great when you have no one to assist. 

Usually one person pumps the brake pedal while the other opens the bleed screw to release the fluid. ( With the clear tube attached to bleed nipple into a container of course).

Do you plan to do it yourself is really the question.

If you have the confidence and haven't tackled something like this, ask someone with experience to assist you or just let a professional do it.

 

 

 

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13 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

This quote is directly from RDAs website.

Read and learn. Looks like I will now have to consider changing back to DOT3 fluid probably with a higher operating range. 

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3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

careful not to introduce air into the system

I have been wary when bleeding brakes.

Best to do your research for your particular vehicle for what the recommended/preferred brake fluid bleeding procedure is. My earlier vehicles had no ABS or Traction Control etc so the braking system could be considered quite simple. I specifically remember that the earlier Honda Preludes required special tools for bleeding the brakes so there were a few "horror" stories doing the rounds at that time. One very good reason for being on these Forums.

Just like any repair/service, select those professionals that have the experience/knowledge for your specific vehicle.

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On 1/4/2017 at 10:36 AM, campbeam said:

Read and learn. Looks like I will now have to consider changing back to DOT3 fluid probably with a higher operating range. 

The Dot 3 is what the Factory spec calls for anyway. I'm no engineer, but I will always try to follow the manufacturer spec within reason.

***Update*** I have since gone to DOT 4.  DOT 3 and 4 are virtually the same except DOT 4 has a higher boiling point. Toyota have just been lazy in only staying with DOT3 to alleviate any confusion from past to future models.

 

http://www.nbsbrakesupplies.com.au/technical-information/dot-3-and-dot-4-brake-fluids.html

Edited by Tony Prodigy
UPDATED
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12 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Do you plan to do it yourself is really the question.

If you have the confidence and haven't tackled something like this, ask someone with experience to assist you or just let a professional do it.

 

Yeah, I'm planning to do it with a friend of mine. Today went to Repco and got Penrite Super Dot 4 for $6.99. I think it is a very good price. I'll see how I go with it. And next time may be go back to Dot 3. There are some good deals happening with SCA, Repco and Autobarn at the moment :) 

20170104_183752_resize.jpg

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30 minutes ago, krigeroz said:

Another strange thing is that, my current brake fluid in the car, has dark green colour... is that normal? 

Colour means nothing, it is purely a dye. Yes this is normal. Different manufacturers use different dyes.

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If its another colour or discoloured it make it a lot easier to see when the fresh stuff is getting pumped through the clear tube on the bleed valve. :smile:

Edited by mg85
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34 minutes ago, mg85 said:

If its another colour or discoloured it make it a lot easier to see when the fresh stuff is getting pumped through the clear tube on the bleed valve. :smile:

Yes That's correct. The idea is to use a different coloured fluid each time as this helps you see when the new stuff comes through.

Good point mg85

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  • 3 weeks later...

With this thread in mind, I have purchased DOT3 brake fluid for my Aurion. Supercheap had a multibuy special for Nulon brand so got 2 bottles. 

Also gone ahead and purchased a vacuum pressure bleeder on eBay so hopefully it will arrive in time for next weekend.

In the meantime, does anyone know the correct bleeding sequence for the Aurion ATX.

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36 minutes ago, mg85 said:

Rear left

Rear Right

Front left

Front right

Not as important as it used to be with ABS but I still do it this way.

This is more or less the way the factory service manual describes it.

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