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TRANSMISSION FLUID LV 4L $36


krigeroz

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Great discussion everyone! 

If someone could make a video on changing the transmission fluid in our Aurion, that would be just icing on top of the cake!

 

 

Edited by krigeroz
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On 1/11/2017 at 3:06 PM, matt36415 said:

The 2liters of Penrite LV is operating normally after about 1000km. No change in shift quality etc. 

What is tube diameter do you use for pouring new transmission fluid?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Guys and Girls,

Just been quoted $220 for a trans service.

I was informed there is no filter on this trans.

They also said, they plug it into a machine, pump approximately 20L of trans fluid through until it comes out clean, then top it up.

Does this sound correct?

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30 minutes ago, 07Prodigy said:

Hi Guys and Girls,

Just been quoted $220 for a trans service.

I was informed there is no filter on this trans.

They also said, they plug it into a machine, pump approximately 20L of trans fluid through until it comes out clean, then top it up.

Does this sound correct?

No.

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It has a filter and you don't need to use 20L.

Toyota don't design these to be changed, but it is an absolute must. 

The search function will show results of this.

campbeam will most likely chime in and agree with this as well.

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21 hours ago, 07Prodigy said:

Hi Guys and Girls,

Just been quoted $220 for a trans service.

I was informed there is no filter on this trans.

They also said, they plug it into a machine, pump approximately 20L of trans fluid through until it comes out clean, then top it up.

Does this sound correct?

Totally incorrect. You have been told a load of rubbish. IMO with that level of knowledge demonstrated, I would not let them anywhere near my vehicle. The U660E transmission definitely has a filter. Like myself, a few/number members on this Forum have removed the transmission pan and replaced the filter. There is one pan bolt that is a real pain to remove because of a cross-member.

I have read a number of posts on various Forums where a power flush is NOT recommended for a particular transmission. I suspect that this relates to the potential impact upon the valve body and the transmission filter . Any transmission filter when it gets clogged up will restrict the transmission oil flow. Explains why after having a transmission power flush, owners of certain affected vehicles may be back for a transmission repair/rebuild/replacement. 

Suggest you find a competent professional automatic transmission repair/service shop that is experienced in servicing the Toyota Aurion U660E transmission.  

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For some reason Toyota now call the filter a "Strainer" same thing in my book but it may cause some confusion with terminology if you head into a dealer and ask for a Trans Filter.

Edited by mg85
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Just spoke to Toyota,

they don't even take the pan off, they just plug into the trans lines and flush the fluid until its clean. Apparently they do it this way because if they just drain it and refill they are only changing half the fluid as half stays in the torque converter.

I asked about the filter and they said it's like a gauze strainer, and they very rarely even check it.

I asked if they would change it and they said they could but made it clear they didn't want to.

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1 hour ago, 07Prodigy said:

Just spoke to Toyota,

they don't even take the pan off, they just plug into the trans lines and flush the fluid until its clean. Apparently they do it this way because if they just drain it and refill they are only changing half the fluid as half stays in the torque converter.

I asked about the filter and they said it's like a gauze strainer, and they very rarely even check it.

I asked if they would change it and they said they could but made it clear they didn't want to.

I will question the accuracy of this filter information specifically for the GSV40 Aurion. The Aurion transmission filter is paper element. In contrast, 1998 Toyota Camry auto transmission filter is metallic gauze strainer.  

Have a good read of the attachments that I posted to this thread on Page 1.

When I replaced the transmission filter at approx. 168,000 KM, the transmission pan and magnets needed to be thoroughly cleaned. I also spray cleaned the valve body. The filter element itself certainly looked dirty. Still looked dirty after rinsing it in petrol.

I don't know what the original transmission filter life is but my internet searches have indicated that auto transmission filters and oil should be changed approx. every 40-50,000 KM for preventative maintenance purposes. 

There was a class action in the USA against Honda citing design flaw when the internal transmission filter got so clogged, there was extremely rough gear changing and transmission failures. So much for the sealed for life approach with transmissions affected after 85,000 KM. Unfortunately, the only way to replace the transmission filter was to remove and dismantle the transmission. After experiencing this 1st hand in a 2001 Honda Accord, this is why I am so pedantic about servicing the automatic transmission in the Aurion which does have the bolt on pan. Will not buy a used vehicle that does not have a bolt on transmission pan.

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I suspect Toyota call it "strainer" and not a filter as it would then put it in the category of a service item. It is pretty pointless asking most Toyota service dealers on issues such as ATF's service's above the scheduled maintenance , they generally quote the service book or in this case have no understanding of what is required.

I have personally heard the Aurion has a sealed ATF and no filter from them.

Probably a better place for advice would be is a reputable ATF specialist.

 Just as well we have forums such as this to get some real world advice.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi guys you can buy Toyota Genuine ATF WS fluid from gllubricants(they sell on ebay). Im going to do drain & ATF filter change, then additional drain this Saturday.

 

 

 

 

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On 3/24/2017 at 2:40 PM, Arium said:

Hi guys you can buy Toyota Genuine ATF WS fluid from gllubricants(they sell on ebay). Im going to do drain & ATF filter change, then additional drain this Saturday.

Excellent!!!! Did you make that video yourself???

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14 minutes ago, krigeroz said:

Excellent!!!! Did you make that video yourself???

No some Russian dude from US. however I did use scanguageii to check transmission temperature, dont need to fiddle with the wires. watch his second video on the Lexus he did, shows how he checks the TFT (Tranmission fluid temperature). 

Actually I just completed the job today, needed 7 quarts of oil to do 2 x (DRAIN & FILL). Changed the trans oil filter and gasket (from sparesbox), used Toyota WS oil from gllubriants(ebay).

Car is now shifting smoothly I am impressed. I did see some metal shavings in the pan. Ill post his other video below.

Oh and BTW i ordered the scanguageii from fueleconomysolutions. com .au     

 

 

 

Edited by Arium
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  • 5 months later...
On 1/4/2017 at 7:12 PM, matt36415 said:

I drain and refill twice a year 2.8 litres each time - thats about every 15,000km

I just wanted to ask you a few questions about the transmission fluid change.

- you change 2.8 liters of transmission fluid is it including  the new filter change as well?

- when you take 2.8 liters do you go through 45 degrees  process of heating the transmission first?

- what if I add 100ml less or more, will it do much harm to the transmission?

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I replaced approx. 2.5 litres of ATF when I removed the transmission pan and replaced the filter.

When just draining and changing the ATF in the pan only, I replace approx. 1.0 to 1.8 litres of ATF depending upon whether the plastic oil level straw is also removed.

I don't have the temperature scan tool so I do the oil level check procedure initially with a cold engine. Start engine and change through each of the gears at 10-15 second intervals.

With engine still running and transmission in PARK, then check oil level [as per procedure]. Final step is to add another 200ml of ATF.

Fully comprehend and do the oil level check procedure totally correctly and you will not have any issues. Personally, I had some not so smooth gear changes due to the ATF oil level being low but sorted it out after re-reading the procedures. Last ATF change was in August 2016 and the gear changes have been very smooth. Been procrastinating for the last few weekends so will most likely do an ATF change this weekend and again next weekend.

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1 hour ago, campbeam said:

I replaced approx. 2.5 litres of ATF when I removed the transmission pan and replaced the filter.

When just draining and changing the ATF in the pan only, I replace approx. 1.0 to 1.8 litres of ATF depending upon whether the plastic oil level straw is also removed.

Ok, thank you, that's a good point to know.

I just been thinking, if I drain approximately 2.6l to 2.8l with removed pan and new filter and then I put back the exact same amount of ATF. Do I still have to go through the ATF oil level check by changing the gears and adding 200ml at the end? I thought that all that procedures can be avoided by replacing the same amount you take from the ATF pan. Am I missing something? 

What do you do with the new ATF pan gasket, is it necessary to grease it with oil or something else as you do for the engine oil filter? 

 

----

I also have question for the engine oil change :)

I came across that engine oil has has a density of ~850g/L and it is more accurate to use 0-10kg scale and do measuring by weight instead. With that assumption my last oil change was 5.2 liters, (I did with a measuring cup and pour 6.1L) but  if take into account the oil density then I would need add an extra 900ml to get to 6.1 liters. 

 

 

Edited by krigeroz
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3 minutes ago, krigeroz said:

procedures can be avoided by replacing the same amount you take from the ATF pan

You need to be able to accurately measure the amount of fluid that is being drained/replaced. The new filter is going to absorb some ATF. As a workaround, you could add an extra 50-100mls to compensate for any measurement discrepancies. Recommend changing the oil pan fluid and doing the proper oil level check procedure after a week or so.

As for the new pan gasket, I am sure that I coated it in ATF

Hope you have done your research for removing the oil pan. There is one bolt that is covered by the sub-frame and it is a real challenge to access and undo.

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Suggest you have a look at the documents I attached on 9th January [Page 1 of this thread]. You need to loosen an engine mount etc to then raise the engine to give you room to access that 10mm bolt.

I ended up using a variety of small/compact 10mm ring and open end spanners to loosen and then undo this bolt. Quite frustrating because you can only rotate the head of the bolt a small amount at a time.

If that blessed sub-frame member had been better designed, then it would be all so easy to undo and remove the transmission oil pan in minutes not hours.

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