Front Rotors/pads

[Tony Prodigy]

Hiro, the huge (perhaps a slight exaggeration),   price difference I was referring to was between the DBA 2709E and the DBA2726E for what is essentially the same product. Why would you pay $174 if you can pay $152 for the same thing ? It's worth checking, which I did as the seller definitely won't say anything. 

As for the rotor height, I did see the difference and was wondering if that had any effect as I don't have the actual Toyota rotor spec.

[Tony Prodigy]

Just wondering if anyone has the specs on the stock Aurion rotors please.

I really don't want to have to remove a wheel to measure if possible.

The replacement rotors have a diameter of 296mm. 

Thanks 

[Tony Prodigy]

What caliper grease are you guys using ?

I intend to split mine and clean/ re grease the sliders too.

Any recommendations ?

I plan to get kit ready today and tackle it tomorrow.

Cheers.

[trentmeyer23]

I just use a high temp general purpose or wheel bearing grease. Works fine.

[Tony Prodigy]

Thanks Trent 

[Tony Prodigy]

I got around to replacing my front rotors and pads if anyone's interested.

I also flushed the fluid from all for corners. Note the Glass jar and the condition of the fluid. I was shocked.

Flushed with 2 bottles of castrol dot 4.

Brake feel is excellent after a brief bedding in.

I also wired brushed all the studs and the centre stubb and applied some Moly Grease to the threads and the mating surfaces of the wheels to the rotor.

Edited October 14, 2017 by Tony Prodigy

[campbeam]

Nice standard of DIY workmanship. I just did a brake fluid change this morning. Fluid had to be at least 2 years old; probably initial few pump changes looked somewhat like your jar.

Both front and rear rotors will need to be replaced soon. eBay have a 10% discount offer for the next few days so will be buying now rather than waiting.

[trentmeyer23]

Replace it 12 monthly, especially in high humidity areas. 

More often in the tropics.

[Tony Prodigy]

On 10/14/2017 at 6:49 PM, campbeam said:

Nice standard of DIY workmanship. I just did a brake fluid change this morning. Fluid had to be at least 2 years old; probably initial few pump changes looked somewhat like your jar.

Both front and rear rotors will need to be replaced soon. eBay have a 10% discount offer for the next few days so will be buying now rather than waiting.

Thanks Ash. I prepared well in advance and took my time to do it properly.

Very happy with the results, even though I used near stock parts.The car brakes far better than it ever has.

[Tony Prodigy]

On 10/14/2017 at 7:47 PM, trentmeyer23 said:

Replace it 12 monthly, especially in high humidity areas. 

More often in the tropics.

I am planning on another fluid flush in around 6 months just for the hell of it to see the difference in clarity of the spent fluid.

The flush I recently did was the factory fill fluid and it was way past due.

The fluid looked clean in the reservoir, but what actually comes out will surprise.

Edited October 17, 2017 by Tony Prodigy
typo

[Tony Prodigy]

I also wonder when you do the fluid flush by purging all four calipers.... What about the fluid in the ABS unit ??

Does this also get a purge as we purge the calipers ??

[campbeam]

34 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

What about the fluid in the ABS unit ??

Based upon reading the Brakes Bleeding section BR-7 of the electronic manual, I would say the answer is no.

You could go for a drive and brake hard so as to activate the ABS and circulate the fluid. Something that I may do myself Wednesday evening if the roads are still wet here in Brisbane.

[trentmeyer23]

44 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

 What about the fluid in the ABS unit ??

Does this also get a purge as we purge the calipers ??

Yes.

Something to note when changing brake pads. It is a good idea to crack the bleed nipple when compressing the pistons, to prevent the sedimented brake fluid from going back through the ABS module. 

[Tony Prodigy]

Just now, campbeam said:

Based upon reading the Brakes Bleeding section BR-7 of the electronic manual, I would say the answer is no.

You could go for a drive and brake hard so as to activate the ABS and circulate the fluid. Something that I may do myself Wednesday evening if the roads are still wet here in Brisbane.

So my idea of the flush in the coming months may alleviate the case of stale fluid ?

[Tony Prodigy]

Just now, trentmeyer23 said:

Yes.

Something to note when changing brake pads. It is a good idea to crack the bleed nipple when compressing the pistons, to prevent the sedimented brake fluid from going back through the ABS module. 

Ahh yes !! Good advice Trent. I never thought to do that. Thank you 

[Tony Prodigy]

At any rate, I will perform another periodic flush in a few months time. 

My wife helped me bleed the brakes. I prefer the foot on the pedal push application rather than the power bleeder, which is unreliable.

I will have to ask her nicely again in a few months.

[campbeam]

5 minutes ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Something to note when changing brake pads. It is a good idea to crack the bleed nipple when compressing the pistons, to prevent the sedimented brake fluid from going back through the ABS module. 

Definitely noted for future brake pad changes

[Tony Prodigy]

+1 on that 

 

[trentmeyer23]

11 minutes ago, campbeam said:

Based upon reading the Brakes Bleeding section BR-7 of the electronic manual, I would say the answer is no.

This is applicable if you have had air introduced in to the circuit; however, a simple fluid change would not require it, if done correctly.

[campbeam]

Yes, lots more effort to purge air out of the master cylinder. This is why I initially filled the reservoir to the absolute top then topped up regularly during the bleeding process so the brake fluid level was never below the minimum.

[Tony Prodigy]

1 minute ago, campbeam said:

Yes, lots more effort to purge air out of the master cylinder. This is why I initially filled the reservoir to the absolute top then topped up regularly during the bleeding process so the brake fluid level was never below the minimum.

Exactly Ash. I was extremely careful during the bleed process not to introduce air by monitoring the master cylinder cup.

I went through roughly 800mls of new Dot 4 to be satisfied.

[Tony Prodigy]

For what is worth, get yourself at least 2 500ml bottles of new Dot 4 and use them up.

[krigeroz]

Excellent workl!

For changing brake pads is necessary to use a disc pad spreader?

Edited October 20, 2017 by krigeroz

[trentmeyer23]

Buy a large G-clamp from Bunnings or similar. You will then have a multi use tool rather than a spreader that you can only use for brakes.

But yes, you will need some form of device to compress the piston.

[campbeam]

I bought this kit mainly because the rear brake pistons on a Honda Accord had to be wound in rather than pushed in. Also as Trent mentioned on 17.10.2017, 

On 10/17/2017 at 6:27 PM, trentmeyer23 said:

Something to note when changing brake pads. It is a good idea to crack the bleed nipple when compressing the pistons, to prevent the sedimented brake fluid from going back through the ABS module. 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-22pc-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Piston-Rewind-Tool-Kit-Set-Auto-Wind-Back-Car-/131333507488?epid=12002922740&hash=item1e941649a0:g:oVAAAOSwrklVWdaI