Zr6 supercharged

Zr6 trd aurion DYNO

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Also in https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product/mwr-built-short-block-toyota-2gr-fe/

Connecting rods
Select stock or upgraded connecting rods for naturally aspirated and lightly boosted engine combinations. For serious turbocharged, supercharged or nitrous applications we strongly recommend upgrading to Crower billet connecting rods for additional safety and strength.

I recommend getting a short block from them and put into your engine, in order to prevent careless mistake from mechanic in rebuilding engine.

For the 2zr ones. Although the power rating is 650hp, but the rod bearing will fail first, if you look the the com rods for 2zr

You better ask mwr for advice as they have a lot of experience in 2gr

 

 

Edited by ben yip

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Buying a short block from them is just going to cost way to much plus shipping and the exchange rate is shocking i can get the whole motor rebuilt for the price of just the short block from mwr. Im waiting for their reply in regards to the stock con rods if they are no good just going to buy a standard motor with 100k kms on it swap the motor put my supercharger and bits n pieces on the new engine and go tune it it if i dont need con rods ill buy just pistons and rebuild mine 

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Have you found any engine builder you can trust? 

Edited by ben yip

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With the amount of horsepower you are proposing you will need forged pistons and rods. 280kw ATW is not a small amount of power.

I still recommend rebuilding your existing motor. (Better to deal with the devil you know). The reason why I recommend rebuilding your existing motor is that you are essentially working on a motor you know everything about once its torn down and rebuilt. Forged piston rods will allow you to exceed 280kw atw without worrying too much of component failure.

If you purchase another second hand TRD motor - which will be cheaper, it is not a long term solution. You will not know if the 100,000km was hard or the servicing was done correctly. 

 

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I spoke to ssc and mwr they say we normally always do rods and pistons but they have never actually had a problem with the rods ever only pistons so i think im going to just go for the pistons only and rebuild the motor its already alot of money the rebuilder said look your not build a 600hp car to go hard on the rods he doesnt think i will need them but definatley said pistons.

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Good, do you mind if I ask how much is the rebuild cost for labour? 

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Just bought this: https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/56452-for-saletrd-aurion-supercharger-complete-kit/

Thanks Zr6 supercharged 😀

Hopefully I'm able to chuck it on my 2013 Aurion without too much trouble.
I wonder if the ECU will just be a straight swap too?!

 

Has anyone else seen or upgraded a newer GSV50R Aurion with the Supercharger?

Cheers 😎

 

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Ok so new motor just went in well not new but had 100k kms from the wrecker was runing in a car before i told them i want it but its runing ok. 

Now have to wait until january to get the methanol kit and piggy back installed and tuned

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Yo been away for a bit lost my job and did my back at the same time joys of metal work, personally if I were in your spot rebuild what u have, ssc should be able to recommend a engine builder, daily driven demands better internals, engine already has piston oil squirters, forged Rod’s an pistons will guarantee long service life, 

 

Sorry to hear about the bad news, but on the other hand it still goes hard whilst broken 

 

With a built bottom end methanol will be a treat

 

Or failing that as long as your doing the changeover yourself, just keep swapping them over, ssc reckons the engine is the same as all  the 2grfe fitted to all Toyota’s

 

I rekon the biggest issue is inlet manifold design, it’s greddy flow the cylinders below the discharge port get fed first then what’s left feeds the rest

 

The new charger kit utilises the na intake manifold with a large plenum which I believe helps for equal flow to all cylinders, 

Edited by Hiro
Multi-posts merged

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@Trd aurion #617 in the future please don't reply half a dozen times to the same thread in a row, just go back and edit your original post.

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ive fixed a few of these engines and have one in my Lotus race car , so i'll try to educate some of you.

the engines are quite simple to rebuild by modern engine standards however the timing chain set up is quite horrible and nearly all internal parts are horribly expensive, even non-genuine stuff. it would no longer be cost effective to fully recondition a stock engine in a stock Aurion as the value of the car is bugger-all. The TRD model uses an identical core engine but of course its worth a lot more due to the other stuff. 

A basic rings and bearings "refresh" is still expensive due to the silly $ asked for gaskets sets and the man-hours requires to strip and reassemble 

The con-rods are sintered metal, not forged. they are a well-known failure point in highly modified engines, but rarely give trouble in stock engines.

The pistons are eutectic alloy, so quite tough for a high performance production engine and good enough for Toyota to accept them for the Aurion supercharged engine, albeit with low boost. Forged pistons and rods are always a good idea for highly modified engines because they will suffer a lot more abuse. Several vendors offer them 

who-ever dreamed up this idea of rating conrods by HP is having a lend of you as its purely a marketing gimmick. in my engine building experiences, i've seen $50 chinese "forged" conrods work perfectly ok in 300HP/litre turbo engines... its the bolts that usually fail so if they have good bolts, and are properly machined, they are usually perfectly OK. 

I worked with ACL to get the race series bearings made for this engine, but they wont make up for other deficiencies like sintered conrods

i'll try to assist anyone with a specific tech question

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Terry, could you tell us more of your stories.

Is this engine reliable for Lotus as a race car?

How about naturally aspirated of this engine to 8000rpm, I saw MR2 doing this engine swap quite often?

A gasket set is around $700, is that correct? and how much is the bearing, and how many man hours require to strip and reassemble?

 

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yes, of course its reliable if left largely standard,  stock boost etc

i have fitted several into MR2's

it takes about 2 man days just to to strip and carefully reassemble and engine like this, then whatever time is need to re-machine, clean, modify etc

If you want to buy parts, then PM me as i have most stuff in stock 

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On 2/5/2019 at 12:39 PM, TRDnz13 said:

Any updates on this epic build? 

Yes hi guys so its finally done abit disapointed tbh but still ok i guess. Just too much money spent on this car for these kind of results. Ok so i had the xede ecu installed and tuned also had o2 sensors relocated from the aftermarket headers down the bottom where it actually collects a reading from all 3 instead of just one section the tuner said that this was most likely the reason the csr was throwing a engine light error. Also had the AEM water methanol kit installed i like the way they mounted it in the boot very strong and they used all existing holes so looks prittty oem. Had a air fuel gauge which i installed myself bar the sensor which the guys put in for me. So boost air fuel and the aem failsafe gauge wer put in car feels alot jicer to drive way smoother and great power through the mid range they told me picked up a fair bit in the middle something like 30-35 kw. But total output power was only 230kw which i was abit dissapointed with espcially after putting the tvs 1900 and water meth kit plus tuning with the xede. So thats where im at right now i was actually thinking i should get atleast 280kw at the wheels. Because with the stocl tvs 1320 with a smaller pulley i hit peak power at 210kw as you guys saw in the video. So i asked the guy who tuned it he said that was on the other engine u never dynod it when u swaped the engine over so could of been less every engine puts out slighty different and also he said thst his dyno reads abit lower than others so msybe on a different dyno it would make more or show more. He said a guy came in and said his mustang made 650hp on another dyno and on his dyno only made 590ish so whos knows but yeh thats where its at now just feel alot of money spent for not so much gain but yeh. He said injectors are pritty much maxed out so next step would be bigger fuel pump and injectors but then still he said u dont want to push it more than that unless going e85 because u get more timing and power without risking the chances of engine knocking as you would with going with a bigger standard fuel set up.

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Nice mate. Has to be one of the more unique TRD builds out there.

can I just ask where you got the TRD bonnet guard? 

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Thanks for the update. 

Honestly don't worry about the dyno power figure as they are all different. 

The best measure is going down the quarter mile and your trap speed.

The water meth injection looks great as well.

On another note is that the smallest pulley you can run? 

On the TVS1900 you can go smaller pulley as it runs more efficiently than at TVS1320.

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8 hours ago, nzzr6 said:

Nice mate. Has to be one of the more unique TRD builds out there.

can I just ask where you got the TRD bonnet guard? 

Thanks bud. With the trd bonnet guard its just a normal standard aurion one i just stuck thr trd on but im not one for cheapy looking stickers but tbh it looks pritty oem so i just stuck with it.

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5 hours ago, TRDnz13 said:

Thanks for the update. 

Honestly don't worry about the dyno power figure as they are all different. 

The best measure is going down the quarter mile and your trap speed.

The water meth injection looks great as well.

On another note is that the smallest pulley you can run? 

On the TVS1900 you can go smaller pulley as it runs more efficiently than at TVS1320.

Yeh i guess thats next just dont want to risk blowing anything down the strip.

 

The stock pulley that comes with the tvs 1900 is a 90mm but im currently running the 80mm pulley which is already smaller than recommended any smaller would be too much boost for stock internals runs about 12-13psi at the moment.

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for what its worth, the "stock" TRD engine in my Lotus race car makes 350HP at wheels. There are zero internal engine mods, stock TRD/harrop blower. I run it on E85 with matching injectors, we made headers & wired/tuned MOTEC M800. 

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5 hours ago, terryo said:

for what its worth, the "stock" TRD engine in my Lotus race car makes 350HP at wheels. There are zero internal engine mods, stock TRD/harrop blower. I run it on E85 with matching injectors, we made headers & wired/tuned MOTEC M800. 

Ohh ok so do you think then mine is about right let say the guys dyno is reading abit low its around 310hp atw. So with e85 set up and retune thats probably where the extra 40 or so hp is ? With your harrop 1900 what size pulley do you run and what is peak boost measured at?

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