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2009 Aurion Engine oil..


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6 hours ago, AurionX2 said:

Is it OCD? That's after going through the Valvoline Synpower 5w30 and 5w40 bottles. Very good oil this Synpower btw. My wife's 2013 is on Nulon 5w30 exclusively, but on mine I put whatever I can get my hands on from the stash, almost always end up with frankenbrews from 2, sometimes 3 different grades or manufacturers. Damn 6.1 litres, whoever came up with this capacity :))

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It's a Master Piece Adrian :biggrin:. At one point I had around half a dozen Nulons on my shelf. Haven't had to buy some for a while.

6.1lt is a bit of a farce too. I've always put the entire 6lt in it and it gets it to full. I'm assuming 6.1lt is the actual capacity from "dry" perhaps, cos one 6lt will do the job nicely. There's no way I'm springing an extra $24 for the 1lt bottle, and Oil Companies along withToyota can take that to their next General meeting too. It sucks though that if you have a 5lt and have to crack open another 5lt to get that 1lt you need, then you have 4lt left.. and on it goes. This is why I always try and get the 6 lt when it's on special.

Keep up the nice work mate :thumbup:

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8 hours ago, AurionX2 said:

Is it OCD?

Probably more like Compulsibe Bargain Buying to have on hand ready to go rather than have to pay more when the specials are not on or spend time chasing down the best available price when you can be doing the oil change instead. I have got all of those brands plus Shell Ultra. 

Nice to know there is someone else with a decent oil stash ready to do an oil change on all of their vehicles and still have a reserve.

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6 minutes ago, campbeam said:

Nice to know there is someone else with a decent oil stash ready to do an oil change on all of their vehicles and still have a reserve.

It's like the Exxon Valdez :thumbsup: 

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11 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

It's like the Exxon Valdez 

NIce one Tony. Will have to remember that when I am next doing an oil change and putting the used oil in the recycle bin rather than down the gutter which leads directly to the local creek.

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8 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

 

6.1lt is a bit of a farce too. I've always put the entire 6lt in it and it gets it to full. I'm assuming 6.1lt is the actual capacity from "dry" perhaps, cos one 6lt will do the job nicely. There's no way I'm springing an extra $24 for the 1lt bottle, and Oil Companies along withToyota can take that to their next General meeting too. It sucks though that if you have a 5lt and have to crack open another 5lt to get that 1lt you need, then you have 4lt left.. and on it goes. This is why I always try and get the 6 lt when it's on special.

Tony, I have never had a problem mixing oils, all I care about is the price per litre, everything else is marketing. Magnatec, Ten10 zinc, additive packs and you name it, it's all marketing, my cars couldn't care less about all that, all they care about is regular changes with quality filters and the oil should be in spec :)

5 hours ago, campbeam said:

Probably more like Compulsibe Bargain Buying to have on hand ready to go rather than have to pay more when the specials are not on or spend time chasing down the best available price when you can be doing the oil change instead. I have got all of those brands plus Shell Ultra.

Great oil Shell Ultra. Speaking of oils, for people in Melbourne Bunnings in Vermont South has been selling for some time now all sorts of Valvoline products, including filters and oils at very good prices. Including the famous Valvoline Maxlife ATF for $34.99 which is compatible with Toyota WS and a lot of people swear by it. Think Maxlife is even made locally? For Synpower I've been using valvolinepromotions site, where you upload the proof of purchase and they send you a $20 EFTPOS card you can use anywhere. That's how I ended up buying Valvoline Synpower 5w30 and 5w40 for under $18 per bottle!

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I can appreciate what you're saying there Adrian. You put it nicely when you said, "my car doesn't know the difference". I had a little chuckle actually..

I'm just OCD when it comes to my cars among other things. Even my motorcycle I'm very fussy about and only use Factory replacement parts when available and at the right price. Sometimes ebay can produce a nice Easter egg from time to time and I stock up on parts I don't need, but always nice to have when they are becoming harder and harder to find N.O.S. items.

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1 hour ago, AurionX2 said:

Melbourne Bunnings in Vermont South has been selling for some time now all sorts of Valvoline products,

Just checked and my local Bunnings stores in Brisbane do not appear to stock the Valvoline Maxlife ATF. However noticed the hydraulic oil so going for a trip to Bunnings. Much rather pay $33 for 5 litres rather than 500ml or 1litre at SuperCheap. Got quite a few jacks that could do with new oil.

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10 minutes ago, campbeam said:

Got quite a few jacks that could do with new oil.

So do you replace the hydraulic oil in your jacks Ash ? The only time I've ever done this is when one of my trolley jacks developed a leak when a 'friend' borrowed it and the idiot put brake fluid in it. It was a long time ago and I ended up scrapping it and bought a new one. I've had my trolley jack for around 15 years now and it's been good to me. 

So should we replace the oil in our jacks ?

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@campbeam  mate it's never that cold in QLD, it's either too hot & humid or just right. My current stash of the Nulon is 25L which is enough for 4 more OCI & I did one last Thursday so I'm right for another 1.5yrs. Also have a box full of Toyota oil filters, some Ryco cabin filters & a Ryco air filter. My first use of the wrench tool for the oil filter canister housing proved it's hardly worth having as it's pretty much on only hand tight. Oil drains down which is a much better idea compared to the old 1MZ-FE ;)

 

Edited by ZZT86
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@Tony Prodigy  there's no reason to change jack oil as there's nothing in it which degrades it. The internal combustion engine destroys oil with time via chemistry ie: fuel & water dilution plus heat.

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My regular trolley jack from SCA leaks and I have been using ATF to refill. It resides in the boot of the car for emergency use.

A while ago I also bought some used trolley jacks now sitting in the shed just for when you need that extra jack when working on the car.

Since then I have bought a nice new low profile jack with a higher load limit.

I am not interfering with this new jack. It is not broken so I am leaving it alone.

 

25 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I've had my trolley jack for around 15 years now and it's been good to me. 

So should we replace the oil in our jacks ?

I have not got a definitive answer. Your choice and the consequences. Most likely best left alone if it is working fine. Maybe think about checking/topping up the oil.

I can dump my old jacks then wait to buy replacements when on special and not be upset at all. Different matter if I was lose my regular goto 1/2 " drive socket and spanner set that I have had for 40+years.

 

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28 minutes ago, ZZT86 said:

mate it's never that cold in QLD, it's either too hot & humid or just right.

At this time, the weather is just right in Brisbane. When it is 7C on a winter morning, then it is cold.

5W-40 oil or 10W-40 oil is good for our summer conditions.

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Just now, campbeam said:

My regular trolley jack from SCA leaks

I recently purchased a toolpro low profile trolley jack in addition to my very heavy 3 tonne ( I think it is), and use it for the more simpler jobs rather than have to mobilize the old brute.

It normally retails for $99. Got it on sale for $58.49 !! You couldn't even have it painted for that for crying out loud.. Bargain, and the beauty is that it's light, easy to use and you can put it in the boot. I wish I bought two as they have now gone back to the regular price of $99.

I love the sales at SCA !

 

SCA_563848_hi-res.jpg

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Here's a youtube channel I thought everybody would be interested in, especially you Ash seeing you love facts, figures and performance data. This guy is awesome.

This particular link has him doing various tests on engine oil with added graphite. Very interesting.

 

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16 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

This particular link has him doing various tests on engine oil with added graphite. Very interesting.

I do watch his YouTube videos and had not seen that one. All very entertaining given the amount of time and effort let alone cost that he puts into his testing. Certainly not something that I am going to try and replicate.Definitely agree with his closing comments about not putting the graphite into a modern car engine.

OIl that black I am immediately throwing out and most likely doing a couple of engine flushes with diesel. LOL 

Only time that I have seen really black oil in my cars was with my 1998 Camry which I did not realise for 100,000kms had a separate differential instead of being combined with the transmission ATF.

Easy to criticise but hard to do. I am very much into the scientific method approach so you need to try and control as many variables as possible and be able replicate results. I also enjoy watching CHris Fix knowing that he reportedly has an engineering background and has testing tools that I was not aware of.

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Yes very true of the graphite oil not to be used in modern engines. The tests he conducts are very time consuming so I take my hat off to the guy.

Chris Fix is also another favourite of mine. He's come a long way !

Another one is Scotty Kilmer ( we affectionately refer to him as "The Lunatic", but he is pretty smart and wouldn't spread B.S that's for sure.

Youtube is great. It's helped me many times

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  • 3 weeks later...

I use 5-30 or 40 or 0w-30 or 40. Either Penrite or Nulon and half a can of liqui moly - so there is the graphite. It looks like slightly used oil with the liqui moly in the oil, not thick black like the video oil. My 2007 and wifes 2009 get the same. The reason I use it is that in my 1999 SSS pulsar I had lots of bolt on bits including an accurate temp gauge. It ran about 5 deg C cooler with liqui moly. I tried with and without several times and kept getting the same result. Anyway- my 2007 has 256 000km and it is all happy.

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3 hours ago, matt36415 said:

In Orange NSW in winter it is often minus a few degrees in the morning and we have already had a day with a max temp of 6.

Now that sort of ambient temperature justifies having the lower oil viscosity. In Brisbane, we are having lovely Autumn weather with a minimum of 10C and a max.of 25C.

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8 hours ago, matt36415 said:

In Orange NSW in winter it is often minus a few degrees in the morning and we have already had a day with a max temp of 6.

Little off topic if I may, A couple of years ago, mid winter, I spent a week at Bloomfield Hospital having to repair a Daikin VRV III system and it was pretty cold. I stayed at Turners Vineyard, nice place too, Had to keep the A/C on all night to keep the room warm despite having a thick doona and blanket in bed. Early starts meant that the car would have ice on it and so it took a little while to get going.

Orange is a nice place, I enjoyed my time there. You don't have to travel far to get around and everything you need is right there.

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  • 2 months later...

Greetings Gents,

Been running the Penrite HPR full synthetic, 5w40 in my 09' Presara for a few months now. Fuel consumption seems ok, but acceleration seems a little more sluggish, than before. No idea what was used before I changed it. So I'm going to change to Penrite 5w30 next oil service. Not happy that I can feel the acceleration has been subdued. I guess in hindsight I should have used the exact oil spec that was in the handbook. Duh !

Cheers..

Bigmike..

Edited by Bigmike62
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4 hours ago, Bigmike62 said:

Not happy that I can feel the acceleration has been subdued.

Maybe it is not the oil impacting acceleration. In my case, I finally discovered how to properly check and clean the mass airflow sensor MAFS. Acceleration has improved and the fuel economy has improved significantly. I currently have 5W-40 in the engine mainly because I did not have 5W-30 immediately to hand at the time.

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