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Tony Prodigy

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I always had the unfortunate experience where a certain socket just doesn't give you that amount of confidence when trying to undo a bolt that someone has overtightened to buggery. 

So I decided to try a set of impact sockets. Rather than going full cheap I decided on these high quality sockets from a Taiwan based manufacturer instead and I can say I'm impressed. 

Also got me various adapters too for 1/4" to 3/8" or 3/8" to 1/2" when the time requires it.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Selta-Taiwan-15pc-1-2-Dr-6pt-Cr-Mo-Regular-Air-Impact-Socket-Set-10-32mm/202429988349?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Impact-Socket-Adaptor-Increaser-Reducer-Convertor-1-4-to-3-4-Ratchet-dr-Taiwan/163926315837?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=463540038064&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Also got these handy things:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hexagon-Reducer-socket-Extension-Rod-Chrome-vanadium-steel-Adapter-New/323859456268?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Oh, and you can never have enough extension bars too.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3pcs-1-2-Drive-Impact-Extension-Bar-Air-Mechanics-Long-Socket-Adaptor-3-5-10/322903005650?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Edited by Tony Prodigy
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I've also been looking for a decent laser thermo gun and I found this:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/INGCO-Infrared-Thermometer-Non-contact-Laser-LED-Indicator-Temp-Meter-30-550/383159565641?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Handy in my line of work, but it can be used in a variety of ways.

I love that not only is the quality very nice, but it has a colour screen too. Not a common thing to find actually. They all sold out but I'm sure they'll restock soon.

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I noticed this damaged nut removal tool set in a YouTube video. Handy to have for that emergency situation which you hope does not happen. 

On 18.03.2020, I paid a total of $21. The tool set finally arrived today and it is quite compact.

image.png.986296cd2388a60c251cc2a1b4ab2be9.png Dimensions of the metal case are approx. 17cm x 8cm x 3.5cm 

Looks like I ended up with the low type.

If I was buying now, I might buy the high type from this eBay seller for approx.$30.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10x-Damaged-Bolt-Nut-Screw-Remover-Extractor-Set-Socket-Threading-Removal-Tool/312824619707?hash=item48d5cce2bb:m:mt1p5tFTGIC-XOYBGAQ9W9A

 

 

 

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In a post on a different thread, Tony raised my awareness of a brake fluid tester. Taking his feedback into account, I ended up buying this type of tester on eBay. It arrived in the mail this weekend so I decided to try it out. Ended up not getting any of the results that I was expecting. Turns out that the brake fluid is slightly below the minimum level mark. I was previously thinking that it was the maximum level. I will get the fluid topped up then test later. Tool has already paid for itself in my opinion.

image.png.ce338ee5d037bb5348439b46ce24c6cd.png

 

 

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7 hours ago, campbeam said:

Turns out that the brake fluid is slightly below the minimum level mark. I was previously thinking that it was the maximum level.

I noticed this also. The Master Cylinder design is such that when the fluid drops as a result of the pads wearing down, you cannot really access the fluid past the front cylindrical portion with the probe.unlike the older conventional designs.

Another way to get a reading would be to perhaps top it up first, then bleed some off into a glass container and then test. Other wise you may have to wait some time for the "newly" topped up fluid to mix with the existing fluid in order to get a more accurate result. The new fluid sitting on top will always give the best result.

 

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I bought this electric Impact Wrench Rattle Gun for $65 during an eBay Australia Day Sale 2020.

Getting lazy, so it is a lot easier than using a wheel brace to undo the wheel nuts especially if they are really tight.

It has been getting a real workout in the last few weeks. Only issue is to not trip over the lead or remember to pack it away properly in the first place.

Thinking about putting this tool to the test for loosening the retaining 32mm nut on the front drive shaft. Maybe my existing standard 1/2" socket will be suitable, otherwise a trip to Trade Tools for a deep impact socket.

image.png.a89cfb89064fe27da8a3ca57e3ad5344.png

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CHECKOUT-10-OFF-UNIMAC-12V-Impact-Wrench-Rattle-Gun-Wheel-Nut-Remover-1-2/142618032122?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

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  • 2 weeks later...

I cleaned a tool set and found that over the years I had destroyed 2 1/2" universal joint sockets.

Initially, I was looking to buy a replacement but ended up buying a set of swivel impact connectors. Apparently they have a maximum 30 degree offset and being chrome molybdenum steel should be a more durable. 

 

image.png.f3da0104e9585cf29c375bef923b5814.png

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-2-3-8-1-4-Inch-Swivel-Impact-Adapter-Connectors-Universal-Joint-Socket-Black/402176990121

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On 5/20/2020 at 12:47 PM, campbeam said:

I bought this electric Impact Wrench Rattle Gun for $65 during an eBay Australia Day Sale 2020.

Getting lazy, so it is a lot easier than using a wheel brace to undo the wheel nuts especially if they are really tight.

It has been getting a real workout in the last few weeks. Only issue is to not trip over the lead or remember to pack it away properly in the first place.

Thinking about putting this tool to the test for loosening the retaining 32mm nut on the front drive shaft. Maybe my existing standard 1/2" socket will be suitable, otherwise a trip to Trade Tools for a deep impact socket.

image.png.a89cfb89064fe27da8a3ca57e3ad5344.png

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CHECKOUT-10-OFF-UNIMAC-12V-Impact-Wrench-Rattle-Gun-Wheel-Nut-Remover-1-2/142618032122?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Haha, nice one Ash. I feel your pain too trying to remove wheel nuts over tightened by those Neanderthals at the tyre places Arrrgghh !!.

Next time I get a set of tyres fitted, I AM going to ask the question to the proprietor. ":Why the hell do tyre places over tighten our wheels nuts to buggery ?" 

They are supposed to be a tyre and wheel place and wheel nut tightening should be a religion to them.. I guess not, probably atheist the lot of them lol..

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3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Haha, nice one Ash. I feel your pain too trying to remove wheel nuts over tightened by those Neanderthals at the tyre places Arrrgghh !!.

Next time I get a set of tyres fitted, I AM going to ask the question to the proprietor. ":Why the hell do tyre places over tighten our wheels nuts to buggery ?" 

They are supposed to be a tyre and wheel place and wheel nut tightening should be a religion to them.. I guess not, probably atheist the lot of them lol..

The simple answer is that they are in more trouble for not tightening the wheel nuts enough such that a wheel ends up coming off. Also it takes more time and effort to look up the correct wheel torque setting for each specific vehicle so at best they guess.

I have bent a wheel brace after jumping up and down on it to loosen massively over tightened wheel nuts. Getting older and weaker compared to my young adult years so can be too much strain on the heart and chest muscles. Lot easier to now have an electric impact wrench and let it do the "hard lifting". I bought a set of impact sockets on recent special at Trade Tools. 

https://www.tradetools.com/product-range/hand-tools/socket-sets/force-1-2-19-piece-metric-impact-socket-set

Now learnt that 13/16" is a perfect fit for wheel nuts instead of 21mm so that socket will be on the buy list.

 

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9 hours ago, campbeam said:

The simple answer is that they are in more trouble for not tightening the wheel nuts enough such that a wheel ends up coming off. Also it takes more time and effort to look up the correct wheel torque setting for each specific vehicle so at best they guess.

I guess you're right there Ash. You think they'd let me do them up instead ? I'll take my torque wrench with me, along with my 'you beaut' wheel protector socket. Show them how it's done 'eh ?

9 hours ago, campbeam said:

I have bent a wheel brace after jumping up and down on it to loosen massively over tightened wheel nuts. Getting older and weaker compared to my young adult years so can be too much strain on the heart and chest muscles.

I too have felt the strain mate and I'm still doing ok in the strength dept. Not as strong as I used to be though and wheel nuts are my biggest bug bear. It's just so unnecessary.

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Latest socket acquisition is 30mm 12 pt deep socket just in case I ever want to remove the cv drive shaft / axle nut on the driver's side. I already had a 6 sided socket but it would not fit. 

When confronted with one of these 30mm 12 point CV Axle Nut (M22x1.5) , you definitely need the deep socket version. As I discovered, the Standard version is definitely not deep enough so returned to Super Cheap Auto. Well worth the difference of $1 to have the correct tool. 

image.png.92b3d2300b551bfca8b2b272a671d46d.png image.png.eb1117a4806e04dd63fae05827fd9bb4.png

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Just remember if you have the type of CV axle where the nut is staked in to the side of the shaft (as per that picture) rather than a castle nut, that you have to completely knock out the stake with a punch otherwise it will completely strip the threads on both the nut and the axle when you try and rattle-gun them off.

 

 

Ask me how I know.

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  • 6 months later...

As I previously mentioned, I bought this electric Impact Wrench Rattle Gun for $65 during an eBay Australia Day Sale 2020.

I subsequently bought this set of impact sockets from Trade Tools presumably when they were on sale.

Force 1/2" 19 Piece Metric Impact Socket Set

https://www.tradetools.com/product-range/hand-tools/socket-sets/force-1-2-19-piece-metric-impact-socket-set

Both of these purchases were very much appreciated when I was replacing the struts. Bolts on the front struts are 22mm and the rattle gun got a good workout undoing and then re-tightening those main bolts. Also used the rattle gun with the 17mm and 14mm sockets for undoing and retightening. 12mm socket was just used for undoing.

Rattle gun came in very handy for undoing the main retaining nut on the strut after using spring compressors to slightly compress the spring. Certainly saved a lot of time and effort.

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I agree. Impact sockets definitely have a place in your war chest. Saved me a few time when I had to remove extra tight nuts (not by me lol), where standard sockets would slip. Impact sockets provide excellent purchase without the fear of rounding off a nut. That sucks.

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  • 9 months later...

This video about essential mechanic tools posted by The Car Nut is well worth your viewing time.

He made a spot on comment about lower quality tool kits by marketing people not by mechanics. I recently looked at this 960 piece tool kit trolley case on My Deal to find that it contains 600 nylon cable ties. https://www.catch.com.au/product/960-piece-tool-kit-trolley-case-4-tier-organiser-home-repair-storage-toolbox-set-black-6836385/?offer_id=34275181&ref=gmc&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIppeRxJnb8wIVGJNmAh3IIQFyEAQYDCABEgLecfD_BwE

The tools that I buy and personally recommend have a lifetime warranty. I am a great fan of Trade Tools and have multiple sets of their Force and Renegade brand which both have lifetime warranties. I have bought other brands but it is more of a quality vs price decision for DIY purposes.

 

 

 

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  • 3 months later...

Recently, I discovered that my 8mm 1/2" drive socket had a crack.

I bought a replacement socket on eBay plus 5 deep impact CR-MO sockets.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/332050405108?var=542699891860 The phosphate black finish looked dull and lifeless so they have now been painted a gloss black colour.

I have found that the 6 point or flank sockets are more effective than the 12 point sockets so have wanted to get more 6 point sockets.

Finally placed the eBay order for these CR-MO sockets:

12P set 1/2" Dr Impact socket Heavy duty 8mm - 19mm CR-MO sockets [shallow depth; loose no box; from previous supplier so will most likely also paint them]

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/234301260991?var=533895442468

20Pc 1/2" Pneumatic Socket Head Metric Air Adopter Impact Repair Wrench Tool [8-32mm; steel box included]

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/363368871219

DUAL ACTION 10PCS 6PT 3/8" Dr 7-19 METRIC BLISTER SET 10141001 [shallow depth; socket rail included]

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/114079259001

 

 

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Nice selection there Ash. The dry phosphate coat doesn't really bother me to be honest, but you can just oil them up and wipe with a cloth and this can improve the look of them. Loose no box makes them pretty cheap. Great value. Just place them in one you may already have or in a compartment of a cantilever tool box. 

I recently purchased a set of extra deep sockets to help be get access to a leaky oil drain bung on one of the ride on mower Kohler engines. They have the bung recessed a bit a no deep socket could reach it with the ratchet attached. So the extra deep cam to the rescue. Mine came loose too and they don't look half bad either.

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OK so all this tool porn is making my mouth drool, my lady said NO NO NO as she wiped my mouth and patted my head 

Great too always see these sexy tools but for now have spent too much for a few months so will have to sit in the quiet corner and drool

KAA

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On 2/11/2022 at 2:58 AM, Tony Prodigy said:

The dry phosphate coat doesn't really bother me to be honest, but you can just oil them up and wipe with a cloth and this can improve the look of them.

Thank you for the idea. It got me thinking of giving those sockets a spray with WD-40 or equivalent then assess the results.

Ended up giving the loose set of 12 sockets a ligh coating of olive oil which gave them a dark black appearance, then warmed them up in a moderate oven. Afterwards I did use the paint pens to mark their size so it is readily visible. Looking good for a final coat of clear.

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  • 1 year later...

I do not use a breaker bar very often so have been improvising with a length of pipe for many years. I did need the extra leverage for the recent replacement of the rear wheel bearing hub assembly.

Recent sale offering from Trade Tools for their Force brand tools got me looking. I located this one. https://www.tradetools.com/force-1-2-telescopic-swivel-ratchet-breaker-bar-802434

I then did an online search and could not find an equivalent. Known quality and the price was attractive enough. I spoke with a TT staff member and he said that it was a best seller.

Now got my hands on a very nice quality 1/2" drive breaker bar that can extend to 680mm. It should prove to be quite handy if ever I need to replace any suspension components.

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Hmm. A ratcheting breaker bar. I never thought the two could or should be combined due to the extra force being applied to "break" the bolt or nut loose. Hopefully the ratchet section can hold up to the rigors or breaking free those tight nuts or bolts.

I don't mind the Force brand either Ash. The quality of finish is also nice. I have a torque wrench made by them and it's a really nice piece. Feels great in the hand too. It doesn't have to shiny like most tools to earn my praise. Something different I guess.

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On the subject of tools, I decided to purchase another Flex polishing machine to add to my ****nal of detailing equipment. I've been wanting a decent variable speed rotary polisher for ages and the prices have been quite high for the most part. 

The Detailing Shed had a sale recently and the discount was too good to resist. I purchased the machine and the set of various sized backing plates for the various sized polishing pads I have.

It's called the Flex PE 14-1 180 Rotary Polisher. 

The rotary machine makes light work where time is of the essence. If used correctly, it can cut through the toughest of paint corrections quite quickly before being finished with the dual action. (Flex XC3401). The dual action can cut through quite well, but it is a much slower process and is more user friendly. The rotary machine needs experienced hands for sure.

So the rotary and the DA machines complement each other.

I still have my old "Stayer" machine I purchased way back in the early 90's. That was good for polishing acrylic paints back when I used to paint cars, but by today's standards, it's a little too aggressive, as It predated variable speed drives and only had a 2 speed select.
Speed 1 for polishing and speed 2 for sanding.
Speed 1 was a tad bit too fast for my liking and extra caution had to be used when polishing. It was great for the big flat sections, but you had to be ultra careful around delicate sections and corners. You could burn through very easily. It was an era when we used wool pads as sponge pads hadn't quite taken off. Wool is a heavy cut medium and caution needs to be exercised when using wool.

Gotta love modern equipment though..

 

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