Avalon Re-Born ?

[TommyM]

2 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

The overflow bottle gets a bit like that, I can remember on my old MCV20R Azura she had the same deal, noticed all the cars in the wreckers were same except 1 😉

What did you pay for those parts if you don't mind me asking ?

The 1MZ is a rippa engine, really wanted to keep my old Azura, wish I could have kept it.

Focal drivers = audio porn 😉 very very nice stuff.

ps: Vic lockdown is like being in prison, hoping this goes away within a week or so.

I brought the part from my dealer, usually go for around $64, my mate did it for $50, so i can't complain. Another 10 years of life 😂😂

The moulded hose that connects to the bottle literally is more than the bottle ffs 😂😂

A maintained one that's tight can also be a real snotty engine lol, hardly underpowered. Running 98 makes a full aray of improvement lol. 

Bottle - $50

Plugs - $95

Leads - $180 

My price, but they usually go around the $65+, $125+, $210+

Tell me about it, i'm f**king over it. 

[TommyM]

2 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

The overflow bottle gets a bit like that, I can remember on my old MCV20R Azura she had the same deal, noticed all the cars in the wreckers were same except 1 😉

What did you pay for those parts if you don't mind me asking ?

The 1MZ is a rippa engine, really wanted to keep my old Azura, wish I could have kept it.

Focal drivers = audio porn 😉 very very nice stuff.

ps: Vic lockdown is like being in prison, hoping this goes away within a week or so.

It's probably more chemical exposure than heat that degrades plastics like expansion bottles, i much prefer it over commodore setups that you can't even clean out properly 🤣

What happened to your Azura ?

[TommyM]

2 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

Focal drivers = audio porn 😉 very very nice stuff.

Well i wanted to keep it relatively close to factory spec because i'm running the factory navigation & amp which is pretty decent, just need the 2019 map update.

In terms of rms, etc

[Tony Prodigy]

20 hours ago, TommyM said:

It was annoying me but it genuinely cracked so i had more reason to replace it 😂😂😂

Haha yeah, I know that feeling. Instant justification right there.

20 hours ago, TommyM said:

I haven't even cleaned the engine bay fully, it's just an honest/clean engine bay. I plan on cleaning it up a bit though, but them factory markings on strut towers, supports, etc i wana try keep haha !

I don't think the markings will wash away all that easy. Not sure what kind of substance the markers use but I assume it's quite durable. Just give the engine bay a spritz of mild APC and pressure wash carefully. Should be fine. 

I like to spray the engine bay with an aqua wax whilst wet as a drying aid, mainly to the painted surfaces, engine bay, under the bonnet, rad support and whatever hard plastic, then whilst blow drying all the nooks and crannies, mop up the trickles with my drying towel. After it's all dry I spray 303 Aerospace protectant on all the soft hoses, serpentine belt, and plastics to nourish and protect them. The aerospace will last for many months. I like to re coat every 6 months. 

20 hours ago, TommyM said:

Looking forward to fitting new leads/plugs, never fit iridiums when it clearly states double-tipped platinums only, the ignition system is designed around a double tip setup, NOT a single tip.

Toyota: 90919/01194 (Denso PK20TR11)

Leads: 19037/20011 (I'm suprised they're still the same Yazaki Japanese part as my original leads, clearly they didn't change supplier which is well worth the extra $30 over non OEM leads, included all new brackets, protective sheets, etc. Something you won't find on aftermarket 😂

Nice to have the original parts always, wherever possible. It's a no brainer really if it's not that much more than aftermarket. Certainly does pay to research and shop around.

20 hours ago, TommyM said:

How are you lot coping with COVID-19 ?

Hopefully better than Victoria, can't even get my windows done till lockdown f**ks off 

Nothing new in Sydney either. Same old, same old. Work, home, work , home. I don't go out all that much except to Bunnings or the shops if I need something and the occasional SCA trip when they have decent specials on.

[Tony Prodigy]

20 hours ago, TommyM said:

@campbeam

@Tony Prodigy

@ZZT86

On another positive note i've decided on the new speakers i'm having fitted once everything goes back to normal, i don't care so much for noise but it's the quality i want. So in accordance to the factory setup

Front run components, rear coaxial & parcel shelf sub

X2 Front: Focal 165 AS (6.5" components) 60w RMS

X2 Rear: Focal 165 AC (6.5" coaxial) 60w RMS

X1 Parcel Shelf: Focal P20F 8" Subwoofer 250w RMS

Having used Focal previously i can not reccomend them enough, they're a brilliant speaker.

Love your attention to detail. Upgrading the factory speakers is always a good thing as long as you can find the right combination of fitment and sound quality. I would hate having to drill holes to make them fit. Much prefer drop in replacements if possible.

Are the Focal speakers a drop in ?

[TommyM]

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Haha yeah, I know that feeling. Instant justification right there.

I don't think the markings will wash away all that easy. Not sure what kind of substance the markers use but I assume it's quite durable. Just give the engine bay a spritz of mild APC and pressure wash carefully. Should be fine. 

I agree 100%, nothing beats the feeling of knowing the part is correct, aftermarket bottles are incorrect mounts. Them flexi tabs like the Camry's of that era which always break 😂

I have no idea either, whatever it is, it's lasted a very long time lol, might be like a plastic type or vinyl type marker. Haven't seen a car of that era with factory markings in a long time, if i'm honest.

I know how to clean things, hell i use a super soft paint brush to clean my badges lol.

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I like to spray the engine bay with an aqua wax whilst wet as a drying aid, mainly to the painted surfaces, engine bay, under the bonnet, rad support and whatever hard plastic, then whilst blow drying all the nooks and crannies, mop up the trickles with my drying towel. After it's all dry I spray 303 Aerospace protectant on all the soft hoses, serpentine belt, and plastics to nourish and protect them. The aerospace will last for many months. I like to re coat every 6 months. 

I might have to look into buying some of that Aerospace 303 spray, where'd you get it from ?

I might recoat every 6 months afterwards 😁

This is something i do personally, but my throttle cable/linkage & heater tap valve i coated in white lithium grease spray for smoother movement, but on the heater tap, basically extending the life of small moving parts, even though it's a 10min job unlike Commodore's. 

 

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Nice to have the original parts always, wherever possible. It's a no brainer really if it's not that much more than aftermarket. Certainly does pay to research and shop around.

Exactly & truth ?, you'll get more of a warranty & better quality part going OEM than aftermarket. Misc things like accessory drive belts, Dayco or Gates, but personally i usually go Dayco. 

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Nothing new in Sydney either. Same old, same old. Work, home, work , home. I don't go out all that much except to Bunnings or the shops if I need something and the occasional SCA trip when they have decent specials on.

Yeah wherever i can get my Mobil 1 cheaper i'll usually go, but 9 times outta 10 i get it on my trade account with Burson. You can go to bunnings, i can't.... shush you 😂😂😂

But i'm glad you lot are well given everything going on, i'm actually suprised this thread has had so many views tbh. God the Toyota community are definitely less toxic.

[TommyM]

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Love your attention to detail. Upgrading the factory speakers is always a good thing as long as you can find the right combination of fitment and sound quality. I would hate having to drill holes to make them fit. Much prefer drop in replacements if possible.

Are the Focal speakers a drop in ?

Well certain things i have massive OCD with. Keeping it all the same range/brand pays off, i know switching to a 4ohm sub will be slightly quieter but compared to the stock one i beg to differ. Also 4ohm speakers lined together will be a 2ohm load which the factory amp is rated for, one thing i appreciate about Toyota is they put massive heatsinks on their amps. Wired in parallel 4ohm + 4ohm loads to a 2ohm total load off memory. 

Well look, the factory speakers are 40w rms, 10w for tweeters & 35 for the sub which is actually suprisingly decent for stock, approx 215watts total, but upgrading with 60w rms it's a nice increase combined with the listed below. In addition i'll be fitting some sound deadening material in strategically placed areas.

Sub alone is 250w rms

Whenever i calculate theoretical max output i always calculate the rms power output not the max output.

Speakers 60w rms ×4 = 230w rms

Tweeters 15w rms × 2 = 30w rms

Subwoofer 250w rms 

Combined theoretical nominal power: 510 watts

It's the perfect amount for audiophiles who want quality for music like Mario Lanza, Il Divo, etc

Or some upbeat stuff depending on ones mood

[Tony Prodigy]

1 hour ago, TommyM said:

I might have to look into buying some of that Aerospace 303 spray, where'd you get it from ?

Car Care Products  or waxit.com.au both in Melbourne

Prices may vary slightly but these two have what you need. Just choose what size you want Tommy. You won't be sorry mate. One of the best rubber/plastic protectants ever made.

I like to spray it on and leave to soak in overnight and then the next day you can lightly go over the harder surfaces with a clean microfibre cloth. Don't worry too much if you get some on the painted areas. It's non greasy and doesn't leave that typical residue you find with those other cheap and nasty brands. Just use a damp microfibre towel on the painted surfaces and it will come up perfectly. 

[ZZT86]

On 10/10/2020 at 2:36 AM, TommyM said:

What happened to your Azura ?

I sold it all because I saw a car on Carsales & thought I had to have it :| My Azura was in top condition with only 133K kms as it was my late godfathers car, really annoyed I sold it but hey my Aurion is 10 times the car the Azura was. Thing is it was sentimental value also, I really enjoyed driving an older car in good order, I just couldn't afford to keep 3 cars & had I no space in the garage for it. At least the young bloke I sold it to was so impressed, he loves it.

[TommyM]

19 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

I sold it all because I saw a car on Carsales & thought I had to have it 😐 My Azura was in top condition with only 133K kms as it was my late godfathers car, really annoyed I sold it but hey my Aurion is 10 times the car the Azura was. Thing is it was sentimental value also, I really enjoyed driving an older car in good order, I just couldn't afford to keep 3 cars & had I no space in the garage for it. At least the young bloke I sold it to was so impressed, he loves it.

The Aurion might be newer, but older Toyota's with the simple, old school tech, old school plastics will never age, they last a lifetime because back then Toyota were still very much about the best materials around. Which is unfortunate because i believe the XV40 Aurion/Camry's had alot of issues, warping dashboards being one big one lol. Obviously the XV50's were superior but you get my point 😄

Trying to find an Azura is near impossible nowerdays.

Old school Toyota's, there's just something about that old school Japanese styling, solidity, etc

Edited October 12, 2020 by TommyM

[TommyM]

So after COVID-19 restrictions finally f**ked off i was able to get my windows done.

Before & after provided below

Because she's a friend of mine, i won't disclose how much it cost me, needless to say she was aussie so i know the work was top notch using very high quality US made film (3M) i believe.

So as follows....

35% (front metalised film)

20% (rear metalised film including quarter windows)

18% (rear window carbon based film) - because the navigation & radio get their signal from the antenna in the rear glass, there isn't a physical antenna. Which is good, gives it a clean look.

19% (sunroof reflective metalised film)

5% (visor strip carbon based film)

Because they have a fair amount of colour in the glass, the windows are actually darker than the film, but still above the legal limit/cutoff.

Edited November 15, 2020 by TommyM

[ZZT86]

Looks magnificent, car looks like new, what a treasure 👍

[TommyM]

49 minutes ago, ZZT86 said:

Looks magnificent, car looks like new, what a treasure 👍

Only thing i really need to do is address the chrome moldings, other than that.... not much else. Just had new OEM plugs & leads (Denso & Yazaki) fitted the other day (seeing as i can see my bloody mechanic now). Regarding the shine ?, the paints held up remarkably well, shines beautifully when clean. Though these pics it was actually kinda dirty 😂😂

I haven't done much to it besides keep it clean, do plan on polishing it, etc. 

Earlier on in the thread someone requested pics, so now i've delivered 😉

Edited November 15, 2020 by TommyM

[Tony Prodigy]

Looks like a Limo now. Nice 

I'm going to have to look into getting my Aurion done as some stage. Wife has been nagging me about it for years 😜

[TommyM]

6 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Looks like a Limo now. Nice 

I'm going to have to look into getting my Aurion done as some stage. Wife has been nagging me about it for years 😜

Bahahahahahaha i was actually expecting it to be lighter with a grey interior and all, but nope it's way darker haha !

Well i think your wife likes privacy just like me, you can look at the idiots that sit on your *****, come up beside you, etc.... without them seeing you & simply say to yourself for example "oh look, another di**head with no indicator", "Here we go another moron being a tool", etc. All with added privacy haha !

Shame you're not in Victoria i'd be able to speak to my mate about getting you a price 🙂

Piece of advice though, don't bother with ceramic films until the price of it significantly drops, you're paying top dollar for literally 3% better overall reduction in UV rays, etc. For the massive price jump over metalised film, it's not worth it. Also you have more tints available (35, 30, 20, 18, etc)

Also ceramic appears lighter which is what you don't want.

Edited November 15, 2020 by TommyM

[Tony Prodigy]

54 minutes ago, TommyM said:

Well i think your wife likes privacy just like me,

Yes, this as well as some sun protection as she is fair skinned too. Toyota Air certainly compensates very well on those high ambient days. We have pretty brutal summers in Sydney.

56 minutes ago, TommyM said:

you can look at the idiots that sit on your *****, come up beside you, etc.... without them seeing you & simply say to yourself for example "oh look, another di**head with no indicator", "Here we go another moron being a tool", etc. All with added privacy haha !

I tend to be the one to look them square on so they know how much of a d***head they are actually. My wife hates it and warns me not to. I just can't help myself 🤣

57 minutes ago, TommyM said:

Shame you're not in Victoria i'd be able to speak to my mate about getting you a price 🙂

That's very kind of you mate, and would be appreciated. I have to try and find someone local who does good work.

58 minutes ago, TommyM said:

Piece of advice though, don't bother with ceramic films until the price of it significantly drops, you're paying top dollar for literally 3% better overall reduction in UV rays, etc. For the massive price jump over metalised film, it's not worth it. Also you have more tints available (35, 30, 20, 18, etc)

Also ceramic appears lighter which is what you don't want.

Yeah, great advice too. Metalised film has been around your decades and if you use quality film as you said, it should last a very long time. Can't go wrong with 3M film. Beware of cheap imitations.

I really like the combination you have, just wondering if it's legal to have that dark tint in the back. I'd hate for  our insurer to get one over us on a technicality. 

[TommyM]

1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

That's very kind of you mate, and would be appreciated. I have to try and find someone local who does good work.

Yeah, great advice too. Metalised film has been around your decades and if you use quality film as you said, it should last a very long time. Can't go wrong with 3M film. Beware of cheap imitations.

I really like the combination you have, just wondering if it's legal to have that dark tint in the back. I'd hate for  our insurer to get one over us on a technicality. 

In Victoria the legal limit is 20% rear & 35% front. But due to all automotive glass being different shades, dyes, etc.

They have a 5% leeway grace period. So absolute minimum is 15% for the rear & 30% for the front.

But the visor strip there is no legal limit on tint, only that it can only cover 10% (basically that whole blue strip on your windscreen), but carbon film on the rear windshield/screen is reccomend if your antenna is there to prevent interference from metalised film. Carbon is basically metalised without the metal content. 

So I've already checked my glass, my rear window is right on the legal minimum limit of 15%

My front windows are 30% due to my glass having alot of dye in it. Solar glass (but it's a 35% film)

Rear are 19% which is above the 15% limit.

Rear quarter windows are 17% (again different dye)

Reason why she suggested an 18% on the rear window is because the dye is different percentages. But it contours perfectly if you want symmetry like i have OCD with 😂

Blends in with that privacy glass effect only it actually has thermal protection not just a dye & no film lol.

 

So if it was my friend doing it she'd advise on

35% front

20% rear/quarter windows

18% rear window/screen 

Optional was 19% reflective film on the sunroof which now you can't see through lol. 5% visor strip

 

I trust her 100%, she's done tinting for 20 years basically.

[TommyM]

[TommyM]

Update: 7500km interval

After numerous long trips, mixed driving, WOT moments, etc. I'm happy to report the Avalon ran beautifully, with one minor thing i noticed. It's as if it wasn't liking the 0w40, didn't burn a drop though i'm happy to report. So, after numerous research i've settled on what the engineers & book state. Which is 5w30 recommended which DOES protect in temps well above 38°C. 

 

So long as it meets the specs as per my owners manual.

*API SL/SM or higher 

Energy Conserving 

ILSAC (GF-3 & GF-4) 

 

* Designates applications to 1MZ-FE 2004 or newer. 

So i've decided on Penrite ENVIRO+ 5w30 GF-S, immediately i noticed the car ran better than the 0w40. But then again, Toyota V6's are super picky with what oil you run in them (well.... MZ or newer)

It provides me with the viscosity, tbn, cleaning properties, etc i want. Whilst being a brilliant oil. It's not too thin at all, now it validates what the engineers recommend with Toyota, just stick with it. 

 

Penrite ENVIRO+ GF-S (formally GF-5)

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/enviro-gf-s-5w-30-full-syn

 

Running thicker oil doesn't always give you more protection, sometimes the opposite, too much drag, etc - in turn (worse fuel economy, etc) Toyota's aren't like Falcon's & Commodore's where you can run dinosaur oil, they're alot more "highly engineered". I'm sticking with ENVIRO+. We'll see how much it's cleaned everything out again at my next service !

 

4 bolt mains & cross bolted mains on the 1MZ in my opinion is overkill 😂

Same with the forged steel crank, but that's just another reason these are such brilliant engines. Not to mention they make pretty impressive power per litre too.

 

KW ÷ Displacement × 1000

Volumetric efficiency i think it falls under ?

 

Other than that, i hope everyone is well. Especially in the Aurion world, among other 6cyl models from Toyota 😁

[Tony Prodigy]

Hi Tommy. Haven't heard from you in a while. All is good in the Aurion world, thanks for asking.

Excellent report by the way !.  I'm glad you were able to find the sweet spot for oil choice. The Toyota engineers are a pretty smart bunch and who am I to challenge them ? I and most others here tend to follow their recommendation too. If it says 5w-30 on the oil cap then 5w-30 it is. 

The drag you mention with the 5w-40 is appreciated as these Toyota engines are built with a much higher precision than the Holden and Ford era equivalent. Those engines will run on virtually anything and not bat an eyelid lol.

I somehow missed your last post. I like that tint gadget. Didn't know there was such a thing. Very cool !

Nice to hear from you. Take care mate 

[campbeam]

Good to hear from you particularly the feedback on 0W-40 oil in your 1MZ-FE engine. I was wondering whether the 0W viscosity was a bit too low for your engine.

Anyway, I bought some 0W-40 engine oil [5 litre containers] when it was on special and yet to use. Most likely will use 5 litres of the 0W-40 and add a litre of 10W-40 or 15W-40 in my 2GR-FE engine. Because I do a lot of short distance driving, I have been doing very frequent oil changes to keep on desludging the engine. Finally making progress after 5 years and refining my overkill oil change procedure. 

If you go back through recent posts, you will find a YouTube video presented by The Car Nut about engine oil and filters. if you have not seen it before, then very worthwhile looking at his series of videos. 

 

[TommyM]

6 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Hi Tommy. Haven't heard from you in a while. All is good in the Aurion world, thanks for asking.

Excellent report by the way !.  I'm glad you were able to find the sweet spot for oil choice. The Toyota engineers are a pretty smart bunch and who am I to challenge them ? I and most others here tend to follow their recommendation too. If it says 5w-30 on the oil cap then 5w-30 it is. 

The drag you mention with the 5w-40 is appreciated as these Toyota engines are built with a much higher precision than the Holden and Ford era equivalent. Those engines will run on virtually anything and not bat an eyelid lol.

I somehow missed your last post. I like that tint gadget. Didn't know there was such a thing. Very cool !

Nice to hear from you. Take care mate 

Well they prefer 5w30, but can run on a 40 or 50 weight. Of course they'll run on anything 😂😂😂

Hell they'd probably run on molasses lol !

What's funny is the oil cap doesn't actually have the spec printed on it, for whatever reason i'm yet to see another AU spec MZ with it like the US market have. 5w40 is good, but like my mechanic said (even me) "if it's not burning it, leave it"

The ENVIRO+ has alot of additives in it over lets say HPR5, hence why i prefer the additive packs where cleanliness, wear protection, etc is concerned. Although HPR5 is Penrite's biggest seller "liquid gold" basically.

[TommyM]

3 hours ago, campbeam said:

Good to hear from you particularly the feedback on 0W-40 oil in your 1MZ-FE engine. I was wondering whether the 0W viscosity was a bit too low for your engine.

Anyway, I bought some 0W-40 engine oil [5 litre containers] when it was on special and yet to use. Most likely will use 5 litres of the 0W-40 and add a litre of 10W-40 or 15W-40 in my 2GR-FE engine. Because I do a lot of short distance driving, I have been doing very frequent oil changes to keep on desludging the engine. Finally making progress after 5 years and refining my overkill oil change procedure. 

If you go back through recent posts, you will find a YouTube video presented by The Car Nut about engine oil and filters. if you have not seen it before, then very worthwhile looking at his series of videos. 

 

It's not that it was too low, i just felt the 40 weight vs the 30 weight, well.... 30 weight it's alot more snappy, probably because the oils flowing at the rate toyota want, aka not too thick haha !

By the book "oil chart", what oils does the 2GR-FE recommend and/or alternatives ?

Kinda curious to see how they changed. I gather with lower tension rings being a thing with newer engines, promotes oil burning early on i guess. All in order to quote unquote "reduce fuel consumption". 

 

It still puzzles me how the 2GR's are so prone to sludge. Where did they screw up i wonder......

 

I have actually, it was intriguing 😁

Edited February 6, 2021 by TommyM

[campbeam]

20 minutes ago, TommyM said:

By the book "oil chart", what oils does the 2GR-FE recommend and/or alternatives ?

Kinda curious to see how they changed. I gather with lower tension rings being a thing with newer engines, promotes oil burning early on i guess. All in order to quote unquote "reduce fuel consumption". 

 

It still puzzles me how the 2GR's are so prone to sludge. Where did they screw up i wonder......

Recommended oils are slightly different between the Aurion 40 series and Aurion 50. Later 2GR engines used newer manufacturing processes and materials for closer tolerances and to improve fuel efficiency. 

2GRs are known to be more prone to sludge. It has been put down to modern engine design and small oil galleries. Engine really needs high quality oil and regular oil changes to prevent sludge build up.

The "screw up" is a recommended oil change interval of 15K kms or 12 months. Lot to be said for the old school approach of regular oil changes every 5K or 6 months if you are a long term owner or a used car buyer. 

As for the lower tension rings, I think this is a recent development for later engines manufactured since 2014 [?]

[TommyM]

45 minutes ago, campbeam said:

Recommended oils are slightly different between the Aurion 40 series and Aurion 50. Later 2GR engines used newer manufacturing processes and materials for closer tolerances and to improve fuel efficiency. 

2GRs are known to be more prone to sludge. It has been put down to modern engine design and small oil galleries. Engine really needs high quality oil and regular oil changes to prevent sludge build up.

The "screw up" is a recommended oil change interval of 15K kms or 12 months. Lot to be said for the old school approach of regular oil changes every 5K or 6 months if you are a long term owner or a used car buyer. 

As for the lower tension rings, I think this is a recent development for later engines manufactured since 2014 [?]

I had a feeling they'd have differences even though the 50 & 40 series are identical in terms of 2GR-FE (and associated power/torque outputs)

Any idea what visc the 50's are calling for ?, or still recommended 5w30/0w30 ?. This is why you go off the extreme operating conditions and do it every 7500km haha !

15k intervals, yeah... that wouldn't be so much of an issue if your commute to work was 80km - 100km freeway only twice a day 😂😂

 

I believe low tension rings have been around long before 2010. E.g Camry 2.4L was notorious for it !

 

Also another thing, Mobil 1 0w40 is only rated at API SN GF-5

Where as ENVIRO+ GF-S is SN Plus, GF6-A 😉 with GF-5 backwards compatibility.

Edited February 6, 2021 by TommyM