Toyota Aurion 2014 - Engine/Trac light on, jerky acceleration, fuel draining

[rbzuu]

Car was due for a 120,000 service 4,000kms ago but I’m tight on money at the moment so I don’t know if I should pay for a service or if there’s something else I need to do first.

 

check engine light and traction control lights came on a few weeks ago. fuel was draining really fast, 25-30 litres would last 2 days with basic regular driving. Now a day or two again it started jerking randomly while accelerating, when I go from a standstill the revs will keep increasing and it won’t change gears, etc. 

 

not sure what the issue could be. OBD2 scanner gave me engine/transmission code but nothing specific.

[campbeam]

Are you running the vehicle with minimum fuel in the tank?

What are the error codes?

[rbzuu]

@campbean I’m filling it up every 2-3 days. Just checked again.

 

p0990 and p2757 for A/T

p1660 for engine

 

idont know where to look to check transmission fluid as it seems that might be an issue

Edited January 31, 2021 by rbzuu

[campbeam]

I just did a Google search for the various error codes with following results.

https://www.autoblog.com/2016/09/15/p0990-obd-ii-trouble-code-transmission-fluid-pressure-sensor-sw/

https://www.engine-codes.com/p2757.html

http://p1660.enginetroublecode.com/toyota-aurion

As a starting point, I would be looking for any transmission fluid leaks which would explain a possible low transmission fluid level.

Most certainly get the transmission fluid level checked and also a change of the automatic transmission fluid. Hopefully this will the solution.

[rbzuu]

I don’t know where to find the fluid, I’ve looked everywhere.

 

my car just completely stopped reversing and I can hear a knocking noise under the driver side. Put it into reverse, stays in neutral.

[Tony Prodigy]

9 hours ago, rbzuu said:

fuel was draining really fast, 25-30 litres would last 2 days with basic regular driving.

How many Kays are you driving in those 2 days would give a better indication if it's using far more than the average. Certainly, if your transmission is misbehaving, this can contribute to fuel consumption by virtue of the transmission slipping and jerking as you mentioned. It is also possible, you may have leaky injectors. I think you should try and get it to a reputable mechanic if you are not able to or capable of basic maintenance. 

Have them check the fuel system from back to front for any leaks etc and have the transmission serviced. 

The U660E transmission doesn't have a dipstick. Most manufacturers are going this way nowadays. The car needs to raised up on a level platform and you need to follow a set procedure in order to accurately check fluid level. It's not straight forward but is possible if you have the time and some basic tools.

Here's a video that will familiarise you with this procedure.

 

[Tony Prodigy]

11 hours ago, rbzuu said:

Car was due for a 120,000 service 4,000kms ago but I’m tight on money at the moment so I don’t know if I should pay for a service or if there’s something else I need to do first.

For those Kays, it's not the transmission I'd be worried about, it's more that the oil being overdue is more concerning. You should be doing the oil service between 8 and 10 thousand, earlier if you can afford it for best protection. Don't follow the stupid book service. It's a trap and your engine will sludge up over time and cause more issues. 15k service intervals is ridiculous and I wish manufacturers would stop doing this. 

Regarding the transmission, something is going wrong in there and it has nothing to do with the current kays either, even if you're worried bout it being overdue. Overdue for oil yes, transmission, no. 

As Ashley (campbeam) mentioned, you need to check for transmission fluid leaks first. If you find a leaky, weepy pan, then this is most likely the culprit. Do you have a trolley jack and some axle stands handy ? We're not sure what level of DIY you are so asking you to check certain things may not be feasible here.

THe U660E transmission is pretty reliable and we rarely get transmission related issues here unless it's been the result of abuse or some software glitch. The symptoms you describe do point to lack of fluid pressure but you will need to do a fluid level check first up then go from there.

 

Edited January 31, 2021 by Tony Prodigy

[rbzuu]

Thanks for the response, I’ll see if I can try and get under the car to take a look. Would the fluid explain why the car can’t go into reverse anymore? And a loud idle with a bit of knocking is what I noticed earlier today.

 

called in a mobile mechanic but they can’t come for awhile so I just want to see what I can figure out for now because I’m scared it could be a big issue 

[Tony Prodigy]

1 hour ago, rbzuu said:

Would the fluid explain why the car can’t go into reverse anymore?

Without knowing the car's history and how it's been driven, at this point, it would be a likely scenario. The symptoms of your transmission issue points to low fluid pressure as a result of low fluid, but it could also be something else. This can be determined only and after the fluid level has been checked and corrected.

1 hour ago, rbzuu said:

And a loud idle with a bit of knocking is what I noticed earlier today.

This won't have anything to do with the transmission. The engine code can be deceiving, so it would need to be a process of elimination. I'd also be checking the individual spark plug coils too. One or more could be bad. If the mechanic has a decent diagnostic tool, he will be able to narrow down the issue/s.

Sorry, but it's more a guessing game at the moment. The info you have now should help point you in the right direction.

[rbzuu]

The reverse was working when I tried it just now but a clubbing noise - all roads seem to lead to spark plugs & transmission fluid. Thanks for the help guys, I’ll update tomorrow once the mobile mechanic comes with a diagnosis 

[rbzuu]

Transmission fluid pressure switch & torque converter pressure switch solenoid stuck is written the paper. Mobile mechanic quoted 5k to tow and replace the gearbox? 
 

the trans fluid had burnt oil in it. Any suggestions? 

[Tony Prodigy]

38 minutes ago, rbzuu said:

Transmission fluid pressure switch & torque converter pressure switch solenoid stuck is written the paper. Mobile mechanic quoted 5k to tow and replace the gearbox? 
 

the trans fluid had burnt oil in it. Any suggestions? 

I would speak to an auto transmission specialist before you do anything. I won't discount what the mechanic said, but I'd definitely get a second opinion.

When you mean "burnt oil" how bad is it. I know transmission fluid does go brownish red with time but if it has a distinct burnt smell then that car has had the life thrashed out of it or it's been used for towing. Does it have a tow bar ??

Did you get a fluid sample ? If so can you post it so we can see ?

For a car that's only done 120,000 kays that transmission should be in much better condition than that. It's been abused for sure.

[rbzuu]

4 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I would speak to an auto transmission specialist before you do anything. I won't discount what the mechanic said, but I'd definitely get a second opinion.

When you mean "burnt oil" how bad is it. I know transmission fluid does go brownish red with time but if it has a distinct burnt smell then that car has had the life thrashed out of it or it's been used for towing. Does it have a tow bar ??

Did you get a fluid sample ? If so can you post it so we can see ?

For a car that's only done 120,000 kays that transmission should be in much better condition than that. It's been abused for sure.

I didn’t get a sample but I saw it on his hand, it was super dark brown basically black. I’m not sure about the smell but he stated “oil in transmission. Black and burnt”. No tow bar - I agree it hasn’t been treated the best but not abused. Majority of those km’s up to 85-90 it was driven like a grandmother.

Edited February 2, 2021 by rbzuu

[Tony Prodigy]

Just now, rbzuu said:

I didn’t get a sample but I saw it on his hand, it was super dark brown basically black. I’m not sure about the smell but he stated “oil in transmission. Black and burnt”

Wow ! That is very bad. Did he say if the fluid pressure switch & torque converter pressure switch solenoid can be replaced ?

This is why I want you to ask a transmission specialist. You may be able to salvage it otherwise you may need a replacement trans. I have seen them sell for around $1500 on Ebay. The prices have come down a lot. They used to sell for 3-4k.

Does your car have a tow bar ?

When did you buy it ? Had it long ? Do you know it's history ?

[rbzuu]

He didn’t say much just did the scan, checked the fluid then said 5k to tow it and replace the gearbox or the tranny or whatever it was.

 

I know it’s history, completely fine until 85km. After 85, driven a bit rough but nothing too extraordinary. Gonna see if I can get another mechanic or auto specialist to look at it tomorrow I guess. If it is indeed a 5k process I might have to just scrap the car

[Tony Prodigy]

1 minute ago, rbzuu said:

If it is indeed a 5k process I might have to just scrap the car

Probably around 3k or less I'd say. It's an engine out job so it's how many labour hours to pull the engine out, swap trannies then install and commission. $1500 for labour is reasonable. They'll have it for at least two days depending how fast they work. You can find transmissions from wreckers on Ebay for $1500.

If you decide to part the car out I may be interested in some bit. Is it a stock ATX ? 

[rbzuu]

Yeah stock AT-X. I’ve looked on eBay and could only find older models; not the 2014 one. I’ll keep looking though hopefully something comes up

[Tony Prodigy]

I'm pretty sure all 50 series have the same transmission regardless of year. Don't quote me but I suspect it is correct.

[campbeam]

Big disclaimer that I am not an automatic transmission specialist.

Have a good read of the article of the U660E transmission from page 10 on.

https://gearsmagazine.com/resources/issues/6f8d1_2013-1_all nbg.pdf

You will need to have a full flush/change of the old  transmission fluid then replaced with correct ATF. Correct scan tool will confirm any error codes specifically relating to those solenoids that have failed.

Maybe the new ATF will help to unblock any stuck switches or else they will need to be replaced.

 

[donnot]

I'd definitely also be looking into that knocking sound in the engine if the mechanic didn't check/give it the all clear (+ getting the oil changed and checking for sludge) before considering spending $$$ replacing/repairing the transmission. A ~20k interval and rough-ish driving isn't ideal :/. 

Wishing you the best - certainly seems frustrating :(.

[rbzuu]

Just tried to put the car into reverse again to drive it to the mechanic up the road, car started shaking immediately. Not gonna risk driving it anymore, seems completely messed up. The knocking noise is gone however, rechecked the codes with my scanner and I’m still getting 2 codes.

 

p1660&p2757.

 

im not sure what to do at this stage - can’t drive it to anyone but I can’t afford for a tow truck either. From what I’ve read it seems like I definitely need a transmission fluid flush/replacement and something to do with the intake/air control & a solenoid or something. Too many issues to sort out at home lol 

[Tony Prodigy]

If you can drive it forward, you could limp it to the service centre. Drive it when the roads aren't so busy to avoid angry looks. Use your hazard lights and keep left.

[rbzuu]

Just got it back from the mechanic. Transmission and normal service done, check engine light is still on. Not sure what it could be. Same two error codes p1660 and p2757 so I assume these need to be checked by another mechanic. Car drives nw and feels smoother; little bit of bogging but I’m not sure. Shifting and all that is much better than before 

[Tony Prodigy]

8 hours ago, rbzuu said:

Just got it back from the mechanic. Transmission and normal service done, check engine light is still on. Not sure what it could be. Same two error codes p1660 and p2757 so I assume these need to be checked by another mechanic. Car drives nw and feels smoother; little bit of bogging but I’m not sure. Shifting and all that is much better than before 

Hey Rob. Good to hear they were able to recover the transmission at least. It will take some time before it fully recovers as the new fluid will take time to flush out all the impurities of the burnt stuff in there. I'd do a pan drain or a flush in around 6 months and inspect what comes out.

If you still have the check engine light on, I wonder if the mechanic cleared the fault codes. Did you say you have a scanner ? If the codes are still persistent, it's then still trying to tell you that something isn't 100% despite it seemingly running close to normal. You will still have some gunk trapped in there and this is most likely what it is.

If the car is running ok, just give it some time and the light may reset itself or try resetting it after a few weeks. That car has had a hard life and it needs some nursing back to good health. Be patient. Did you have the spark plugs replaced ? Did he also test the coils ? Was the MAF sensor cleaned ?

If you have some basic tools and like to try and do the auto trans fluid flush we can help. It will save you some money and it will be an excellent learning opportunity for you if you plan keeping the car long term.

Thanks for the update. Hopefully she settles down a bit now.

Cheers