Battery Warning light; Changed Battery; Still have warning light plus many more?

[Jackson74]

Hi all, I just picked up a second hand low km (104k) GSV40R Presara, 2008 model. I've done 500kms, the battery went flat on me a couple of days ago, and had spare slightly higher cranking Amp battery on hand, so I changed it out. Since then the car starts Ok, but the battery warning light is still on and up to today, the check engine, traction and abs, airbag warning lights have started to appear in the dsah, along with a "Check VSC System" warning in the main tacho space is coming up...the stereo is intermittently coming on and off...I thought it maybe an alternator not charging the battery, but since these other things have started to occur, i'm not so sure anymore...its worrying me...does anybody know whats happening here? Engine idol and drive is fine, nothing really happening with the car itself, just these electronic bugs. Cheers for helping people.

[Tony Prodigy]

Have the alternator checked. Looks like it's not outputting the correct charge to the battery.

[AurionX2]

Ditto, check the alternator, 2008 is not the best of years for Aurion alternators and water pumps, ask me how I know :D

Oh and welcome to the forum :)

[campbeam]

3 hours ago, Jackson74 said:

does anybody know whats happening here?

What I suspect is happening is that you are continuing to drive. The alternator is not charging the battery and the level of charge in the battery is going down. This is why more warning lights are appearing. Eventually, you are going to be stranded with a fully discharged battery. Temporary workaround is to fully recharge both batteries and have the spare battery in the vehicle ready to swap over. 

Best to check the alternator connections then determine whether it is the alternator or the alternator pulley that needs to be replaced. . An auto electrician would most likely have to bench test the alternator.

In my case, I chose to replace the complete alternator unit but have retained the old one. I purchased from this eBay seller back in April 2019; [possibly OEX brand]

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New-Alternator-fits-Toyota-Aurion-GSV40R-3-5L-Petrol-2GR-FE-10-06-03-12/111372269393 

This listing could be for a Denso brand alternator but best to confirm with the seller. 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Alternator-for-Toyota-Aurion-GSV40R-engine-2GR-FE-3-5L-V6-Petrol-06-12/271956457735

 

 

[Jackson74]

13 hours ago, campbeam said:

What I suspect is happening is that you are continuing to drive. The alternator is not charging the battery and the level of charge in the battery is going down. This is why more warning lights are appearing. Eventually, you are going to be stranded with a fully discharged battery. Temporary workaround is to fully recharge both batteries and have the spare battery in the vehicle ready to swap over. 

Best to check the alternator connections then determine whether it is the alternator or the alternator pulley that needs to be replaced. . An auto electrician would most likely have to bench test the alternator.

In my case, I chose to replace the complete alternator unit but have retained the old one. I purchased from this eBay seller back in April 2019; [possibly OEX brand]

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-New-Alternator-fits-Toyota-Aurion-GSV40R-3-5L-Petrol-2GR-FE-10-06-03-12/111372269393 

This listing could be for a Denso brand alternator but best to confirm with the seller. 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Alternator-for-Toyota-Aurion-GSV40R-engine-2GR-FE-3-5L-V6-Petrol-06-12/271956457735

 

 

Thanks Campbeam, i did confirm that the alternator is only pully 8 volts, clearly not enough to charge the battery...much appreciate the help buddy. I'll change out the alternator and see where we go from there...hopefully all will be well.

[campbeam]

I have attached some reference documents that i used when I replaced the alternator.

Alternator Removal YouTube URLs.docx Serpentine Belt Diagram on 2GR-FE Engine.docx

[AurionX2]

Replacing the alternator is a *BIG* job on the Aurion, need to drop the coolant, the bloody thing is squeezed behind the radiator, an A/C line is in the way, when I did mine I thought I could get away without removing the front completely and it was a mistake, it cost me an aircon regas cause I had to disconnect that line. Then there's poor access to one of the bolts that's right behind the wheel well and I needed two deep sockets of different length to work on that b4$tard. Wouldn't do it again unless I end up stranded in the middle of nowhere.

Edited April 15, 2021 by AurionX2

[campbeam]

47 minutes ago, AurionX2 said:

Replacing the alternator is a *BIG* job on the Aurion, need to drop the coolant, the bloody thing is squeezed behind the radiator, an A/C line is in the way, when I did mine I thought I could get away without removing the front completely and it was a mistake, it cost me an aircon regas cause I had to disconnect that line. Then there's poor access to one of the bolts that's right behind the wheel well and I needed two deep sockets of different length to work on that b4$tard. Wouldn't do it again unless I end up stranded in the middle of nowhere.

I will agree that it is a more involved job particularly compared to earlier 4 cyl Toyotas where it is just a few retaining bolts and to replace the alternator is just a few minutes.

As per the YouTube videos, I removed the radiator shroud which contains the 2 cooling fans. This then provided enough working room for actually being able to remove the alternator out of the engine bay. Most certainly did not need to touch or disconnect any of the airconditioning lines. You may possibly be referring to the bolt on the tensioner pulley for the serpentine belt.

Something else for consideration is that there are differences between the 40 and 50 series. Coolant overfow bottle is to one side on the 40 series but close to the radiator on the 50 series.

Definitely recommend buying the best quality alternator to avoid having to do a replacement again in the short term.

[AurionX2]

On 4/15/2021 at 8:00 PM, campbeam said:

As per the YouTube videos, I removed the radiator shroud which contains the 2 cooling fans.

That's exactly right, this was my mistake: not removing the fans shroud, I've only tilted it forward after disconnecting the coolant hoses as much as I could thinking I've got enough room to work there. Lesson learned, do it by the book, even if it may take a bit longer, to avoid unexpected costs. In my case was the A/C regas 🙂

Edited April 19, 2021 by AurionX2

[campbeam]

6 hours ago, AurionX2 said:

even if it may take a bit longer, to avoid unexpected costs.

You have got me thinking that removing the radiator would have definitely give much more working room. Extra time and effort but it avoids any potential for damaging the radiator. Something that I was very careful to avoid when taking out the alternator.

Still ended up with some of the cooling fins on the radiator a bit flattened that then were straightened before putting the fan shroud back on.

[nzzr6]

 

On 4/15/2021 at 8:47 PM, AurionX2 said:

Replacing the alternator is a *BIG* job on the Aurion, need to drop the coolant, the bloody thing is squeezed behind the radiator, an A/C line is in the way, when I did mine I thought I could get away without removing the front completely and it was a mistake, it cost me an aircon regas cause I had to disconnect that line. Then there's poor access to one of the bolts that's right behind the wheel well and I needed two deep sockets of different length to work on that b4$tard. Wouldn't do it again unless I end up stranded in the middle of nowhere.

in my case i ended up removing it twice, once to do the job and another to do the belt tensioner which i should have just done the first time when i had it all out 🙄

[Tony Prodigy]

32 minutes ago, nzzr6 said:

 

in my case i ended up removing it twice, once to do the job and another to do the belt tensioner which i should have just done the first time when i had it all out 🙄

Kinda like the old adage. Measure twice, cut once.

Good idea to analyze the job in hand and see what else can or should be done whilst your in there. There's nothing worse than having to do the same job twice. I've been there too and have since learned not to repeat that mistake.

[campbeam]

34 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Good idea to analyze the job in hand and see what else can or should be done whilst your in there.

All part of preventative maintenance and planning ahead. With the tension off the serpentine belt, good opportunity to check the idler pulleys. I took the extra time to re-grease the sealed bearings hoping to avoid/delay buying new replacements. 

I more think about the saying of " a stitch in time {saves nine} " . I have been experiencing this the last few weeks and learnt/reinforced the lesson of doing timely repairs. After lots of lost weekend time and frustration, ended up ordering a new mower and also buying a used mower. Now got more "mechanical girlfriends" to play with.

[Tony Prodigy]

19 minutes ago, campbeam said:

Now got more "mechanical girlfriends" to play with.

I hear you mate. My Dad went and bought himself another ride on tractor without telling me and it had many issues. We needed something with a bit more grunt than the 17.5 Hp of the Deere tractor we have.  It's a Husqvarna YTH2548XP and boy did it need work. It's in very good condition despite the lack of maintenance by the previous owner so I've spent the last 3 weeks bringing her back to where it should be and I'm still not finished. Gave it a good detail over the weekend though  whilst waiting for parts to arrive too. Sorry, couldn't help myself. I even 303'd the tyres 🤣

[campbeam]

4 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I hear you mate. My Dad went and bought himself another ride on tractor without telling me and it had many issues. We needed something with a bit more grunt than the 17.5 Hp of the Deere tractor we have.  It's a Husqvarna YTH2548XP and boy did it need work. It's in very good condition despite the lack of maintenance by the previous owner so I've spent the last 3 weeks bringing her back to where it should be and I'm still not finished. Gave it a good detail over the weekend though  whilst waiting for parts to arrive too. Sorry, couldn't help myself. I even 303'd the tyres 🤣

That looks as new and impressive.

I am laughing because the girlfriend did suggest a ride-on mower which is a bit impractical for a suburban backyard. Hip pocket nerve was also activated when she suggested buying one.

Also laughing because I have started using NULON 5W-30 synthetic oil in the mower.

Looks like I will have to add detailing the mowers after I have dealt with the cars. Just as well there are some long weekends coming soon.

[Tony Prodigy]

5 minutes ago, campbeam said:

I am laughing because the girlfriend did suggest a ride-on mower which is a bit impractical for a suburban backyard.

Hahaha, It's the ultimate in creature comfort being able to ride instead of pushing the damn thing around. You can get an appropriately sized ride on even for a suburban yard, but it's still a bit overkill. You'd have me doing the whole street's nature strip just to stretch it's legs a bit 😄

8 minutes ago, campbeam said:

Also laughing because I have started using NULON 5W-30 synthetic oil in the mower.

That's actually an excellent idea, because all small engines require SAE30 oil anyway. I wouldn't stray from 30 weight though. I've been using the Penrite semi synthetic SAE 30 oil and am currently researching a higher ZDDP content oil, which is said to benefit small engines more so than a conventional SAE 30 oil.

I've also read that diesel oil 5w-30 would also be an excellent choice too as diesel oil tends to have the highest ZDDP content.

11 minutes ago, campbeam said:

Looks like I will have to add detailing the mowers after I have dealt with the cars.

This is a must for me. I like to give it a thorough clean and going over just before winter storage, and just give it a blow through with compressed air every other time. I've applied a paint and plastic sealant throughout so it keeps better. 303 on the tyres is a must as tractor rubber can go hard and crack. Got it just in time too.

[campbeam]

18 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

That's actually an excellent idea, because all small engines require SAE30 oil anyway. I wouldn't stray from 30 weight though. I've been using the Penrite semi synthetic SAE 30 oil and am currently researching a higher ZDDP content oil, which is said to benefit small engines more so than a conventional SAE 30 oil.

I've also read that diesel oil 5w-30 would also be an excellent choice too as diesel oil tends to have the highest ZDDP content.

Getting back on topic of this thread. It pays off to do internet searches and assess the best options.

Regularly reading Forum posts gives me ideas for further investigation and confirmation.

[Tony Prodigy]

Yep, I agree totally. In the years preceding the internet it was all trial and error. Nowadays there isn't any excuse anymore as we are so spoilt with ready access to information, even a newbie can tackle it.

I, like most, like to read other forum posts and you'll be amazed how much you never knew or thought you knew.

[AurionX2]

11 hours ago, nzzr6 said:

 

in my case i ended up removing it twice, once to do the job and another to do the belt tensioner which i should have just done the first time when i had it all out 🙄

Sounds like me :)))