Brake noises

[AnnaM]

Took my 2003 Corolla Conquest ZZE1225R in to mechanic as brakes squealing, screeching, warble sound - sounded like they were sliding (if that makes sense). Replaced front and rear brake pads (AM), disc rotors (AM), caliper springs, retaining clips and caliper slide boots. carried out brake fluid flush, cooling system flush, replaced front bumper stops (AM) and dust covers, front lower control arms (AM), got a wheel alignment, replaced rear engine mount - cost me $3,100. So taking back tomorrow as wheels still squeal.  AM stuff is After market parts... (which I don't like they said if we had to wait for genuine it would have to come from Japan - find that hard to believe).  

 

What is making this noise that I can suggest to mechanics - don't trust 'em so feel like just a money gouging event every time I go there... sound occurs the last few seconds of applying brakes... mainly occurs once car is warmed up and have been driving form at least 15min...

[campbeam]

Work colleague had a brake noise issue with his Toyota Kluger. Mechanic used some unfamilar brand brake pads. I am sure that the issue was resolved when a more recognised brand e.g. Bendix were finally used.

Something to consider is that new brake pads and rotors need to be bedded in.

 

[Tony Prodigy]

12 hours ago, campbeam said:

Bendix were finally used.

The Bendix brand have a layer of blue bedding in material coated on the outer surfaces to enable quicker bedding in, which is nice of them. 

You'd like to think that city driving would enable bedding in of the brakes anyway, as long as you aren't too aggressive for the first day or so. Use gradual force and prepare your stops a bit earlier than normal and you'll be fine.

[Tony Prodigy]

18 hours ago, AnnaM said:

Took my 2003 Corolla Conquest ZZE1225R in to mechanic as brakes squealing, screeching, warble sound - sounded like they were sliding (if that makes sense). Replaced front and rear brake pads (AM), disc rotors

Hey there Anna,

Not knowing your service history and your knowledge of cars in general, I would be inclined to think that your front brakes wore down to metal on metal contact level scoring the rotors. In most cases the rotors would be replaced if the scoring was deep enough and in some, they could be machined if they still have enough recommended minimum thickness.

I would question the need for the rear rotors to be replaced too as these don't work anywhere near as hard as the first. Being a Corolla, which is also a light vehicle, a pad change is almost always what is required and rear pads can last for many years, up to 5 years at least.  I'd also love to see the condition of the rear rotors and get a thickness measurement too to justify if replacing them was necessary. I would find it hard to believe the rear rotors were that bad that they needed replacement. Were they scored too ?

19 hours ago, AnnaM said:

caliper springs, retaining clips and caliper slide boots

These were probably replaced if there was significant degradation. If the slide boots have perished, the slider grease will harden and dry and cause your caliper to seize somewhat and not release when lifting off the pedal. The brake pad will stay in contact with the rotor and you will get premature wear of the pads.

I would also apply a dab of grease to the backside of the inner pad (the one that rests on the piston) and grease the retainer clips. This will eliminate that squeaky sound when applying the brakes. If you keep hearing a squeaky sound despite this, then it's possible your wheel nuts have been overtightened to buggery. This can cause a warping of the contact surfaces between wheel and rotor. You can also damage the studs by continued over tightening. Wheel nuts should really be torqued to spec, but most mechanics, especially wheel and tyre places never do. They just rattle gun them to death. My biggest bug bear for wheel/tyre jobs. When I get my tyres replaced, I always re-loosen my wheel nuts and re-tighten them with my torque wrench.

19 hours ago, AnnaM said:

AM stuff is After market parts... (which I don't like they said if we had to wait for genuine it would have to come from Japan - find that hard to believe). 

Nothing wrong with after market parts, if said parts are of reputable quality. No need for genuine rotors or pads, even the other parts you mentioned. The cost for Genuine parts can be horrendously expensive, so savings can be had by using AM parts. There's more margin in it too for the business owner. For an everyday car like what you have, AM is fine. Good quality AM parts can be as good as Genuine.

You need to ask the right questions to your mechanic. Ask about quality etc and also ask to keep the old parts and have him show you why it needed to be replaced for peace of mind. 

Take the car back and just tell them that your still not satisfied. The work has warranty remember this.

Anyway, I hope I've helped. Let us know how you go Anna.

Cheers 

[campbeam]

Following YouTube video by The Car Nut is actually showing a complete brake pad and rotor replacement admittedly on a Mercedes Benz. Plenty of tips by this Toyota Master Mechanic particularly the application of grease onto the brake pad and caliper spots. Presumably all of his experience being applied to prevent brake noises.