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Long hard road…


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Yep. A genuine kit, I found a dealer selling a bunch of then when I was trawling eBay for Genuine mats and Bootliner before Sebastian even arrived here.  
 

Most of the (family/practical) cars we’ve had in the last 20 years have had some form of footwell illumination so the $85 for the kit was a no brainer.  It’s something that should have been a standard fitment or an easier install but I guess by some point Toyota AU had given up on the Aurion development and market.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Today Sebastian had his first oil change in my care.

some things of note.

Sump plug was in really good condition which is nice.

However.

The drain bung in the bottom of the oil filter housing was well stuck in.

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Yeah this thing.  I ended up using a rattle gun on it off the car.  That revealed a nice pocket of sludge in the drain valve.

the housing itself cleaned up nice with brake cleaner - but again some carbon crumbs and some varnishing.  All that’s gone now.

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I did take a leaf out of Sludgies book and run through an oil flush prior to draining.  Definitely got some extra muck loose compared to just dumping oil.

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Frah filter and a sump full of cheaply purchased Gulf Western synthetic.  We will hopefully do some longer runs in the next couple of weeks and I’ll do another flush and change after that.

Next official service is due in January-ish so he will go to Toyota for that.  
 

Overall still a happy camper.  The sludge I could have lived without but I don’t know how many “book service” cars wouldn’t have some lingering around.

 

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11 hours ago, Sebastian Woodhouse said:

The drain bung in the bottom of the oil filter housing was well stuck in.

That's a common issue. Mine is always a bugger to loosen off. Each time I try it rotates the housing off, just to add to your frustration.

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I have given up trying to use the drain bung at the bottom of the oil filter cartridge housing. The housing rotates off first.

Forgotten how many months ago, that I used an oil filter removal tool to hold the housing in place on the grass while I applied pressure to remove that drain bung. Ended up deciding that it was not worth the effort and just loosen the housing gradually and let the oil drip into a drain pan before fully removing the housing. 

 

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Posted (edited)

I grabbed the rattle gun and chooched it.  Having the correct 10mm square key meant little to no risk of chewing it up. 
 

Makes me think either the torque spec of the filter housing is well above “nip it up snug” - would have to be 50Nm compared to the drain bungs 25Nm - or we should be lubing the o-ring and threads differently.

Edited by Sebastian Woodhouse
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On 10/10/2021 at 10:31 AM, campbeam said:

Ended up deciding that it was not worth the effort and just loosen the housing gradually and let the oil drip into a drain pan before fully removing the housing. 

That's pretty much what I've been doing too Ash. Just have to remember that there is an O-ring in side that small drain bung that will perish eventually and may induce leakage, so at some point I will have to remove it. Probably needs bugger all tightening torque like the rest of the housing.

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On 10/10/2021 at 10:58 AM, Sebastian Woodhouse said:

Makes me think either the torque spec of the filter housing is well above “nip it up snug” - would have to be 50Nm compared to the drain bungs 25Nm - or we should be lubing the o-ring and threads differently.

Well, I do know first hand that the filter housing has a torque spec of 25Nm. I stupidly over-tightened mine years ago and broke several filter removal tools trying to get it off. This was before I noticed the "25Nm" guide cast into the bottom of the housing. So I'm thinking that the drain bung is probably the same value and with mine being difficult to get off may have something to do with my past ignorance lol.. 

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Sebastian and I had a spa date in the garage for about 7 hours today.

 

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I’ve shown some of the swirling and paint damage before - and I had compounded a stack of the body, that’s the hazy look to the quarter in the foreground but didn’t do the boot lid, rear bumper or roof.  
 

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I’d gone pretty hard on the bonnet leaving only the worst of the damage.  But again, only with a diminishing compound and not a final polish.

Today this was going to change.

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Roof compounded - yes the compound is a diminishing type and when worked fully dry will give a near complete finish.  The clouded areas I had worked the compound damp (stops it from breaking down, increasing the cut time).

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Bonnet after final polishing.  There’s still the deeper scratches etc but for the most part the finish is as good as it is going to get without risking the clear coat. 
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After a lot more polishing, and then two (heavy) coats of Ceramic.

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His bad side, the rear door and quarter have had some of the worst paint repair I’ve ever seen.  I might end up repainting the door myself if it gets to me enough.

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But for now it reflects nicely.

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The other side is factory paint, and while it has some mediocre scratch repairs they’re blended a little better after the compounding and polishing. I like the art level of capturing our other cars in the shot too 🙂

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A close up reminder of where we started and where we are at right now. 

 

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It's a lot of hard work,  but the results do speak for themselves. Dark colours do make you work for it though.

Don't bother chasing those deeper scratches, as you know, it will only compromise the clear coat further than you need to. If you can't get it to a decent stage by the second cut, I'd be more inclined to leave it and just go to a finishing compound. It will still present better than most cars you will see anyway. Give it a decent sealant and future marring will be mitigated, if you wash it carefully.

Car looks so much better. Thanks for the update.

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Yep - there’s not much point in pushing harder on Sebastian’s paint.  I’ve left a decent amount of deeper swirls and marring as well as the scratches.  He’s now probably typical in terms of paint damage for his age, but with a really good clarity so the various metallic flakes sparkle in the light.

It’s got two heavy coats of CQuartz over it now.  There’s not much else to be done except be on top of the coating maintenance.  
 

But enough on the body.

I’m currently getting my head around a glitch in the climate control system, but I would say I’ll just fire the parts canon at that - it’s either the Fan, or the controller.  I wouldn’t mind a a control panel with less wear on some of the buttons and it does have to be stripped for the LED conversion.
 

The other to and fro is the headunit.  On one hand there’s a couple of Joying units that could be fitted and work.  Joying are one of the better aftermarket integrated units if only because their base specs are generally higher.  
The other hand is waiting for some normalcy in aftermarket units to return.  I’d been looking at the Kenwood DMX820WS specifically, but I’m also wonder that maybe giving up on the 200mm fitment and going for an Alpine ILX407A and pairing it with the (US sourced) CANBUS interface to do the one screen vehicle configurations that the factory unit does would be cool.  That said I can always use Techstream for config and do I really need the A/C settings appearing on a screen directly above the AC controls?

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4 hours ago, Sebastian Woodhouse said:

He’s now probably typical in terms of paint damage for his age, but with a really good clarity so the various metallic flakes sparkle in the light.

It’s got two heavy coats of CQuartz over it now.  There’s not much else to be done except be on top of the coating maintenance.  

Plenty enough I reckon too. The CQuartz is like the icing on the cake. Keeping it clean is so much easier when it has a decent sealant on it.

4 hours ago, Sebastian Woodhouse said:

The other to and fro is the headunit.  On one hand there’s a couple of Joying units that could be fitted and work.  Joying are one of the better aftermarket integrated units if only because their base specs are generally higher.  

That's good to know for the generic range because it can be a crap shoot from the junk that comes from China. Some people are reporting various issues with software, functionality and even radio reception. How frustrating that would have to be and the people who make these junkers could care less. If I had the time, inclination and money, I'd invest in a name brand for total peace of mind. Kenwood, Alpine, Pioneer are the pick of the bunch.

 

4 hours ago, Sebastian Woodhouse said:

 That said I can always use Techstream for config and do I really need the A/C settings appearing on a screen directly above the AC controls?

I purchased the Techstream system from an ebay seller and got stiffed. He turned out to be a crook. Paid for it, sent me a fake tracking number and never heard from him after a few messages and never saw the item. That was around 6 months ago or more now. He's a guy who operates out of Israel, ships from China and went by the name of 'feldman'. Got the old lip service for a short time then poooft, then he took the vow of silence.The dirty dog has most likely started a new user account as I can't find him under that name anymore. Ah the joy of Ebay.

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