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The Dreaded Check Engine Light (CEL)


Tony Prodigy
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G'day Gents, It is a historical moment for me as I have encountered my first ever CEL on my beloved Aurion. 

It's throwing a P2240 code which points to the Air/Fuel Sensor on Bank 2. Luckily enough, bank is the front facing side so replacing this will be much simpler than that of the rear.

Initially I tried to do a simple reset, but it presented itself again soon after driving it, so It looks likely I will have to order and replace it. But before I do, I will attempt to remove it first to inspect its condition, do a reset and try again. If that fails then I'll just replace it.

I'll update you guys later on.

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Edited by Tony Prodigy
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16 hours ago, campbeam said:

Bank 2 is the one closest to the front of the vehicle.

Typo. I meant to say bank 2 actually, not bank 1. The front facing bank is bank 2, correct.

I have ordered a sensor removal kit after having looked at it this morning, I realised I had nothing to remove the sensor without butchering it, so I didn't attempt it.

The kit should hopefully arrive during the week and I'll have another crack at it.

The car starts, runs and drives perfectly despite the fault code. Go figure..

 

Edited by Tony Prodigy
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I would recommend every DIYer get  a sensor removal kit because at some point any one of these types of sensors on your car will go bad and they are pretty simple to swap out, especially if you have the right tool. It will save you having to take it to a shop and spend unnecessarily.
The sensor in question is recessed below the heat shield on the manifold and I didn't want it to become a job in itself to remove everything just to be able to fit a spanner and I would probably advise against trying it with a spanner if you don't have sufficient space. If the space is limited, you have more chance of causing more damage with a spanner, and if it's a stubborn one, the spanner can slip causing more grief, so a purpose made socket is the right way to go about it I think.
 

I ended up purchasing a non Chinese version kit, despite the Chinese kit being way cheaper. This kit made by Selta (Taiwanese made), looks to be of a much higher quality. The sockets are better made and the blow mould case looks to be of a much higher standard. I've had instances where the inferior products that come in blow moulded cases, the sockets have a tendency to fall out of the individual placements and the clasps which close the box have little to no purchase and can pop open with some of the contents falling out. Frustrating stuff. There's my OCD kicking in again 😄😄😄

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1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

The sensor in question is recessed below the heat shield on the manifold

When you mentioned the sensor location, it reminded me that I have previously removed that sensor to inspect and clean.

Very applicable internet tip was to use brake cleaner as a penetrating oil to help loosen. Apply and wait about 5 minutes. It worked where WD-40 did not appear to produce the desired results.

Afterwards, I carefully applied some anti-seize grease to the sensor threads.

I have a cheaper O2 sensor removal kit. After looking at the eBay listing for the Selta kit, I used the following link to purchase.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/194419498166?hash=item2d444e1cb6:g:UbgAAOSwFN9fi~gG&frcectupt=true

 

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4 hours ago, campbeam said:

Very applicable internet tip was to use brake cleaner as a penetrating oil to help loosen. Apply and wait about 5 minutes. It worked where WD-40 did not appear to produce the desired results.

Afterwards, I carefully applied some anti-seize grease to the sensor threads.

Thanks for the tip Ash. I'll definitely soak it in brake cleaner and upon installing I have read that it is a good idea to apply some copper anti seize compound on the threads, very carefully too, so not to foul the sensor tip.

The Denso sensor is looking likely to be in the vicinity of around $250. Not sure if they used a different one on the 40 series version of the 2GR-FE. 

There's too much conflicting information out there when it comes to this particular sensor, mainly fitment, length of item and plug type. 

The best way to know for sure is to remove mine in it's entirety and compare online.

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15 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I would recommend every DIYer get  a sensor removal kit because at some point any one of these types of sensors on your car will go bad and they are pretty simple to swap out, especially if you have the right tool. It will save you having to take it to a shop and spend unnecessarily.
The sensor in question is recessed below the heat shield on the manifold and I didn't want it to become a job in itself to remove everything just to be able to fit a spanner and I would probably advise against trying it with a spanner if you don't have sufficient space. If the space is limited, you have more chance of causing more damage with a spanner, and if it's a stubborn one, the spanner can slip causing more grief, so a purpose made socket is the right way to go about it I think.
 

I ended up purchasing a non Chinese version kit, despite the Chinese kit being way cheaper. This kit made by Selta (Taiwanese made), looks to be of a much higher quality. The sockets are better made and the blow mould case looks to be of a much higher standard. I've had instances where the inferior products that come in blow moulded cases, the sockets have a tendency to fall out of the individual placements and the clasps which close the box have little to no purchase and can pop open with some of the contents falling out. Frustrating stuff. There's my OCD kicking in again 😄😄😄

scrat/squirrel mode as i call it ROFL (scrat the squirrel from ice age the movie)

Edited by Jamie Edwards
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