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Supplemental Accessory Drive (SAD) Shaft


bobf

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I've had my 10/90 Tarago (Bubble) van for just over six weeks and the "rattle" under load has now been diagnosed as the supplemental accessory drive shaft (SAD shaft). I have been quoted about $1325 for shaft and then about 4 hours labour to fit. This is much better news than the previous mechanic I took the car to who told me it was a cracked piston and wanted $5K to replace the engine. I've done a little research on the internet and it seems I have to buy the complete shaft from Toyota because there is no aftermarket kit. Can anyone help me here? Is there a cheaper alternative? A wrecker in Melbourne has offered me a s/hand shaft for $600.

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  • 2 years later...

I realize that your post is now almost 3 years old...

However, this info may help someone else with the same problem... :(

I have been informed by many sources that the actual SAD shaft itself almost never is the problem, it is more than likely the couplings at the ends of the SAD Shaft...

There is an importer in Lansvale (Sydney) who will supply brand new couplings for $150 each, and will also fit for $150 if you can't do it yourself, grand total of $450... :D a huge saving on the quote I got from my local Toyota dealer of almost $4000 <_< , with of course included the replacement shaft, which, as stated earlier, almost never wears out!!!

Regards,

Rich...

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  • 7 months later...
  • 7 months later...

Hi again, I thought I would put this in so that any of you who are thinking of doing this on your own will have an idea of what is involved.

Well, how do I put it... it was a bitch of a job!

It should be really straight forward, but of course, being 13 years old, nothing came apart as it should. You really need to do both couplings at the same time, and the only way is remove the whole drive shaft.

You will need 10/12/14mm sockets, 6inch socket extension, open/ring 12mm spanner.

Jack up the car and put on axle stands. If you have a pit or ramp lucky you!

First, remove the front protection panel which covers the underside at the front end...6 bolts, 10mm/12mm.

The SHAFT is attached to the couplings with 3 12mm bolts/nuts either end (or 14mm depending on your year, mine is 96), and the couplings then attach to the DRIVE, engine end 3x 12mm bolts ONLY, and the DRIVEN anciliary end(front) again with 3 nuts/bolts each.

You need to remove the horseshoe bracket supporting the front on the anciliary block (it straddles the shaft at the front) this takes 6 bolts, 2x12mm upper each side and 2 x 14mm lower. This will allow you to pull the REAR coupling free of the engine drive once you have removed the 3 bolts (the anciliary block swings forward slightly).

The bushes within the coupling perish and break, but not all of them! All the bushes were broken on our rear (engine) end and it came apart easily, but only the bushes attached to the front driven flange were gone, the bushes attaching the coupling to the shaft at the front were all intact. This made removing the shaft extremely difficult, as the bushes are recessed into the shaft flange, AND WERE IN TIGHT and I could not therefore remove the coupling from the shaft.

If I could have just removed the shaft with the coupling attached this would not have been a problem..... However, there are 2 brackets holding up the anciliary block at the front, (the two brackets onto which the horseshoe attaches). These brackets curve in towards the shaft, preventing removal of the shaft PLUS coupling. In the end, I had to contort myself under the car to be able to reach the bolts holding one of the brackets, REMOVE 2 of the bolts 12mm and LOOSEN the top one 12mm which allowed the bracket to swing upwards and out of the way, eventually allowing me to remove shaft plus front coupling.

You will need a big cross point screwdriver to prise the bushes from either the drive/shaft/driven flange if they are (inevitably) stuck! If you are lucky, ALL the front bushes will have perished and broken, including the shaft ones and you will be able to pull the shaft free of the coupling. This will save you having to undo the bracket!

The thing is, once its out, you just fit the new couplings to the shaft, tighten up the bolts, put some new grease in each end and put the whole lot back in! Re-attach the anciliary support bracket if you had to undo it (swear alot!) put in the rest of the bolts for the couplings to the drive/driven flanges and reattach the horseshoe bracket at the front!

Note... if you were able to remove the shaft from the coupling at the front and did not need to undo the curved bracket, then you will have to fit the coupling to the driven flange FIRST and then offer up the shaft to the front coupling ..... if you fit the coupling to the shaft, you WILL NOT GET IT PAST THE BRACKET!!!!! (more swearing!)

Start your engine! NO RATTLE!!!!!

It took me (qualified helicopter technician) 4 1/2 hours..... thats 3 hours 45 mins to remove and 45 mins to refit.

Now I know what to expect, I guess I could do it in under 2 hours (NOT that I am offering, mind you!)

If you want to give it a go, then I would be happy to talk you through it.

My advice if you are not mechanically minded..... get a mechanic to do it!

All the best

Paul

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  • 2 years later...

Wow thank you paultb u explained it perfectly accept u needed little more swearing, I think we talking bout same shaft n I desperately need help, mine is out of car and I'm pretty sure front part (sorry have no idea of name) where shaft goes into needs to be replaced as well (its the part that the alternator attaches to almost like part of the chassis), if u or anyone can help me with names of suppliers for these parts I would be very appreciative as I am not a mechanic or engineer or technician just a Aussie having a go. I hope n pray someone can help pls.

Thank you

Needtodoitmyself

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  • 3 weeks later...

There are a couple of these around the net.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/g_U_1993_TOYOTA_PREVIA_TCR10L-REMDKA.html

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1993_TOYOTA_PREVIA_TCR10L-REMDKA_3702.html

The big thick thing at the front end is a bearing (they say) and the 3 bolts in front of that should be 'loosened' to help ease the shaft off at the engine end.

Someone else started the job for me [there is a write up in a Yahoo group I think] that I read on how - to .

when I got the car back and a box of bits, the yoke at the engine end was missing.

I ended up finding a parts place in florida USA who sold Sth African built shafts (with yoke and couplings), its cost $300 including postage to bring it in. Its still on the vehicle, but be sure to grease each bolt well.

seems that Toyota offer a 14mm whole shaft replacement for over $1,200 for all models, but the 1990 - 1993 have 12mm bolts

[Toyota realised that the shaft has issues and maybe why they stopped doing manual versions - too much load on the couplings during gear changes????]

Bewary that some people on ebay sell the new couplings for over $500, if you look harder you will find a pair for around $100.

This vehicle is known as a Previa around the world, as an Estima in Japan and tarago in australia.

You will see Rav4, Camry, Hilux as sharing parts

I've done the front struts on mine too, See the KYB site for the differences in the grey and the black (they're both the same) - but you will need a spring press. I put new top plate in and boot covers and stoppers. If I ever get my import, I'll put in shorter springs and lower the van

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  • 1 year later...

I've had my 10/90 Tarago (Bubble) van for just over six weeks and the "rattle" under load has now been diagnosed as the supplemental accessory drive shaft (SAD shaft). I have been quoted about $1325 for shaft and then about 4 hours labour to fit. This is much better news than the previous mechanic I took the car to who told me it was a cracked piston and wanted $5K to replace the engine. I've done a little research on the internet and it seems I have to buy the complete shaft from Toyota because there is no aftermarket kit. Can anyone help me here? Is there a cheaper alternative? A wrecker in Melbourne has offered me a s/hand shaft for $600.

1990 to 1993 12mm tarago sad joints Ebay.com you dont need the hole sharft thay are a round $80 dollars you has a vidio how to do it

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  • 8 months later...

Hi is anyone still following these posts?, i am having similar noises, petrol sounds like an old diesel engine,but only when i apply accelerator to pull away, more so when cold. I have changed the pully spring and drive belt twice , still comes back.

Please help

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  • 10 months later...

Seems like a common problem this SAD.  Ours went bust 15 years ago and is now rattling badly again.  Regular mechanic has warned to not drive car on highway as he is concerned it will "blow" and cause lots of damage.  In Melbourne, does anyone know of a trusted, reliable, value for money Toyota tarago specialist mechanic who could replace the bushes at a price that doesn't make scrapping the car a better option?

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  • 5 years later...

Hi all, Reopening a very old thread, as I have to replace my SADS couplings. However, I have some questions about the actual couplings to buy . . . My TCR10 is a 2000 model, but the sleeves in the SADS couplings measure 12mm O/D. CARSRUS listing says 12mm for 5/90 - 7/94, and 14mm for 9/94 - 1/00 ....

My question is, can the 14mm couplings be used in place of the 12mm, or vice verse ?(possibly someone has used the wrong couplers on mine in the past ?) Or is the PCD or bolt spacing different ? Also, what is the difference between the diesel and petrol model couplers ? (as the diesel ones are half the price of petrol, on average . . . )

Thanks very much.

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  • 5 months later...

Hi, I would like to know where to get these parts, I'm in New Zealand and if the diesel ones are the same but cheaper please let me know!

Also part numbers and suppliers or dimensions would be good, and a cross reference to the other Toyota models that share the common parts! 

Thanks 😊

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