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  3. Mark Pat


    I have a 2018 Camry SL with a moonroof, it’s fantastic. I am wanting to know if I can load new software to my current car radio to include apple car play ? The USA Camry can have the upgrade so was wondering if mine can as well here in Australia. If so, where is it done and how much would the upgrade cost. mark.
  4. Keith A

    keith ryan

    Hello Camrey Club an inquiry I have an Holden Apollo 1996 4 speed auto with 5S-FE Engine essentially an Camry only 80.000 k on clock and in as new condition overall , issue is has developed an engine intermittent shut down problem have spent time and money on engine diagnosis read-outs this is the model still with a distributor with single ignition coil and factory (Aust) immobilizer system I would like to make contact /advice from someone with experience with these old engine management and security systems there are still a lot of these cars on the road any advice would be appreciated .. regards
  5. Yesterday
  6. Hey there guys, I have a corollas ascent sport 2016 model, ZRE182. I’m wondering if anyone tried to replace their OEM seats for aftermarket bucket seats before? If so what are the rails patterns. Really keen on putting a pair into my slow boi. Thank you guys!
  7. Last week
  8. my 2004 camry park brake is a single 360` shoe, how do you replace it.
  9. The 2GR-FE engine is very reliable however it needs to be regularly serviced with quality oils to avoid oil sludge. White smoke on start up is a symptom of oil sludge build up affecting oil circulation in the valve cover and oil via the pcv valve getting into the air intake.I bought my 2006 Aurion with 160k and a 2009 Aurion with 108k with this oil sludge/white smoke issue. There are also 2 known weaknesses with oil hoses with earlier models. The rear VVTi oil line had a rubber mid section. Eventually it develops a pinhole leak which causes obvious oil loss. I replaced this oil line with the full metal version and this job was quite frustrating for me. Quite separately are the oil cooler lines which have rubber hoses and when they leak results in immediate and total oil loss. Toyota Australia will replace these oil cooler lines when they leak at their expense. Replacement part is all metal.. Recently, at 208k, I have replaced the alternator. It is not a simple task. Before that, I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils. Again, another time consuming task removing various vehicle components to access the rear spark plugs. Another absolute must is the regular servicing of the automatic transmission. After lots of internet research, the ATF in these sealed for life transmissions should be replaced after 100k miles / 160k kms. At 165k, I replaced the automatic transmission filter/strainer and cleaned off the sludge build up on the transmission pan. Another frustrating job because of 1 bolt on the transmission pan that is difficult to access because of the vehicle sub-frame. Something else on my to do list is the replacement of the fuel filter. Rear seat needs to be removed for access. Absolutely love my Toyota Aurion and why I bought a standby 2008 Aurion, The driving pleasure more than makes up for the very occassional DIY weekend jobs.
  10. Hey guys! I was looking at picking up an Aurion as a cheap runabout. My brother has one and it's been a very reliable car but he's only clocked 130k on it. As I was looking at some cheaper examples on gumtree, between the 200k-300k mark and was wondering what you guys have experienced with these cars in that mileage range. They tend to only cost between $4000-$6000. Doing my research I understand the GR motors on the Aurion's and Lexus's are very very reliable. The only thing I have found to go bad on more than one occasion is the water pump, which is a $1000 job because of the labour involved and where it is placed. My brothers also developed the famous 'Toyota death rattle' on cold starts, which I assume earned its name for a reason, but his car still runs every single day with the death rattle and has done for over a year. Any info you could give me on your own cars and experience with the higher mileage would be awesome. Thanks guys
  11. Before I start, I DO NOT take any responsibility for any damage you might cause to your car. If you’re careful and you double check everything, you should be fine! I did this in a 40 series Aurion, so I honestly have no idea for 50 series and others. I’m sure it would be similar, but it would be best to find a workshop manual for your car to be certain on the wiring. All 40 series wiring should be identical, but it’s best to ALWAYS double check first. Alrighty! Let’s get started. I’ve recently installed paddle shifters in my 08 TRD Aurion and I know some people are interested in doing this too, so I’ll try my best to explain and show how it was done. I took photos whenever I remembered, so hopefully it’ll be good enough! I started out with buying a 50 series Sportivo steering wheel, with the stock paddles attached. Originally, I was going to just do a whole steering wheel swap over, though the plugs on the clockspring didn’t match up with the 40 series, so I decided to just remove the paddle shifters. They only consist of 3 wires.. Shift up, Shift down, and a common wire. If you have a Multimeter of some sort, then it’s best to check continuity on the paddles between Shift up and common, and then Shift down and the common, just to be 100% sure you’re using the correct wires and you’re not going to create a short circuit when you pull the paddle. It was also useful to have the whole steering wheel with pins that I didn’t need so I was able to use them on the clockspring plugs for the wiring I added. Otherwise you may have to track some down from a wrecker or look online to buy the pins. The first step was to disconnect the battery so I was sure not to short out anything. Then I removed the centre console and found the plug at the rear of the gear shifter. There is a white 8 pin plug located at the rear, fairly easy to access. After looking through the Aurion workshop manual, I eventually found the wiring diagram of the pin layout for the plug. I believe that the same wiring can be accessed under the dash somewhere, though I wasn’t sure where it was and found it easiest at the plug under the centre console. Pin 1 – Shift Down (Blue with silver stripes) Pin 2 – Shift Up (Dark green with silver stripes) Pin 5 – Common (White with Black line) With the battery still disconnected, I cut each wire and then crimped them back together using a female bullet lug (this also gave me a good spot to test for continuity between the wires, along with giving me somewhere easy to plug in the wiring I needed to add for the paddles). I then plugged the shifter plug back into the back of the shifter and used my Multimeter to check for continuity between Pin 1 & 5 when the shifter was pulled Down in ‘S’ Mode, and then between Pin 2 & 5 when the shifter was pushed up in ‘S’ Mode. I then crimped on some male bullet lugs onto a 3 core cable (it doesn’t really matter what cable you use.. Just make sure you remember which core is which!), plugged them into the female bullet lugs and then ran the cable through the back of the centre console and up underneath the steering wheel. Using some of the spare pins on the steering wheel I had bought, I soldered these onto the cable I had ran to the steering wheel. At this point I taped up each core individually and just left them under the dash for a bit and moved onto preparing the steering wheel. Steering wheel removal: PLEASE BE SURE YOU HAVE SOMEWHAT OF AN IDEA ON HOW TO REMOVE THE STEERING WHEEL! PLAYING WITH AN AIRBAG CAN ALWAYS BE A BIT DANGEROUS. BE SURE TO LEAVE YOUR BATTERY DISCONNECTED FOR AT LEAST 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING FOR SAFE MEASURE. Underneath the steering wheel on either side, are little plastic covers. Remove these to show a Torx screw head (size T-30 I believe). They probably won’t completely come out as they’re locked in the steering wheel plastic. Though once they’re undone, the airbag should just pull out. Carefully remove the 2 plugs by pulling up the yellow tabs with a small flat head screwdriver. Before completely removing the steering wheel, REMEMBER the position of it! You definitely don’t want to put it back on in the wrong spot. The centre bolt is a 19mm if I remember correctly. LOOSEN IT BUT DO NOT COMPLETELY REMOVE IT JUST YET. Pulling the steering wheel free from the shaft can be fairly tough.. But it’ll eventually come free after a lot of yanking at it and you’ll be happy you didn’t completely remove the 19mm nut as the steering wheel will most likely come off with a lot of force. Once it’s loose you’re free to remove the 19mm nut, unplug all the plugs and feed them through the back of the steering wheel. At this point I removed the plastic backing of the steering wheel and then put it back on the car so I was able to still drive it while I waited for the paddle extensions to arrive and also give me time to modify and paint the paddle shifters. Probably took about 2 weeks to have it how I wanted it as I really only had the weekends. So once I had the plastic cover off, I just made the shifters sit as flat as I could to avoid them hitting any of the stalks (Headlights, wipers, cruise control). It really depends what paddle shifters you try to use.. Though to attach 50 series paddles, I removed one side of the plastic cover that holds the printed circuit board for the shifters, drilled small holes through the steering wheel cover, and then just used the existing screws that held the PCB cover together, to mount them onto the steering wheel cover (I think that all makes sense..). I also drilled holes to feed the wiring inside the cover. It might look a little dodgy, but once it's all back together you can't see anything. Once I had the paddles cut down, painted, and attached to the extensions, I had to once again remove the steering wheel. This time around I had to remove the clockspring from behind the steering wheel. I didn’t get any photo’s at all of this, though there’s just a few little plastic clips holding it in place. I’m sure there are some videos or other forums out there that have a more detailed explanation on how to remove it. Be careful not to go spinning the clockspring around as it only has limited amount of turns in either direction as there’s a ribbon cable inside. On the steering wheel side of the clockspring there are 2 plugs, a white 10 pin plug and a white 4 pin plug. On the dash side of the clockspring there is a black 12 pin plug. In the dodgy photo I’ve made up, you can see what pins I found that had continuity through the clockspring.. Pin 3 from the steering wheel side matched up with Pin 4 on the dash side. Pin 4 from the steering wheel side matched up with Pin 3 on the dash side. Pin 2 on the smaller plug matched up with Pin 1 on the dash side. You can decide which pin order you'll use as it really doesn't matter. You just need to have Shift up, Shift down, and the common wire matching up on either side. I’m sure it’s not going to change from car to car.. But PLEASE double check this with a Multimeter just so you’re 100% sure it’s going to match up. Remember that this is all on the clockspring, the photos just show the plugs, I just didn’t take any photos of the actual clockspring. Once I was confident with all this, I put the clockspring back in the car, attached the steering wheel plastic cover back onto the steering wheel, plugged the wires from the paddle shifters into the spare pins shown in the photo above and then plugged the 3 cores from the dash side that were ran up from the shifter which I mentioned earlier, into the spare plugs on the 12 pin black plug. BE SURE THAT YOU’RE CONNECTING THE CORRECT WIRES ON EITHER SIDE! Then from there it was just plugging everything back in, bolting the steering wheel on, plugging the airbag in and tightening up the screws to hold it on, reconnecting the battery.. And I think that’s pretty much it! Now you should have working paddle shifters! Overall it wasn’t too difficult, it just took a bit of time working things out and setting it out the way I wanted it. If you’re going to give this a go, just take your time and take a bit of care! I apologize if I'm a bit slow to reply, but I'll try to answer all questions if there are any. Goodluck!
  12. Best to refer to your owner's manual. I also do a Google search using oil manufacturer + lube guide e.g. I prefer to use oils with the latest oil specifications of API-SN and ILSAC GF-5
  13. Please tell me, I have got Kluger 2004 and display screen is hanged!!
  14. needs a regas? Cabin air filter might be worth changing too
  15. I have a Landcruiser 200 series V8 twin turbo diesel. I have had this same problem a couple of times. I set the trip meter at the neutral mark I. E. No numbers and turned off the car. Came back a few minutes later and turned on, and presto the lights had gone off. The trip meter set itself back to the mileage setting and not where it was when it was turned off.
  16. Hi All, I have a stock standard 2009 Aurion AT-X.. (it has the basic aircon controls.. no dual climate control or anything) Anyhow just yesterday the it decided to go crazy......the 2 drivers air vents blow cold air and the 2 passenger side air vents blow normal air. All air vents blow at the same pressure, except 2 of them don't get cold... what would be causing this? cheers
  17. You will find 15/40W in most brands are good...Castrol, Valvoline Nulon..etc. I Use these on both my 2001 Camry (V6) and 2005 Corolla. I usually change at 6 monthly intervals., regardless of kilometers driven....
  18. I replaced my head unit in my 07 Aurion with one that looks similar to the first pic - the sound is far superior and well worth the expense, the speakers remain stock and are pretty good tehy were just underutilised with the old stock head unit. I used a youtube video to follow re removal instructions it was pretty easy if you have a long socket (most jobs are easy with the right tools and near on impossible without them). I paid $400 on Ebay from recollection. It's a worthwhile mod from my perspective.
  19. Hello, front diff vibration I have a 2010 GXL turbo diesel IFS landcruiser. I had an issue driving to Exmouth and it dumped the oil out of the front diff. I was able to fill with engine oil but it was noisy and I had quite a way to go so I dropped the front shaft and put it into centre diff lock and kept going. I ended up rebuilding the diff and decided to put in an eaton locker at the same time. since back together I have a bad vibration that comes in under load about 45 kph and goes at about 70 If I drop the front shaft it is not there, I have pulled the let side (where it seems to be) apart and checked the inner CV, intermediate shaft, was new brg in Kit. Checked the play in the pinion etc. Couldn't find any issue is drive train, found the let side diff bracket rubber bush cracked so changed it and the vibration feels worse. Everything tells me there is something wrong in the input to the diff but I cant find it. Any help welcome
  20. All three dealerships here in Christchurch use this cleaning product.I have postponed the service until November as these guys are busy and require 7 weeks advance notice for a loan vehicle. Haven’t enquired about warranty yet but will do so.Will update this thread again with the information later.
  21. Hi all Can someone please tell me what the recommended oil is to use for our Corolla Sportivo’s? Some advice on what type of oil and best suited brands would be great 🙂 Tryng to compare what the OEM specs are vs aftermarket eg. full synthetic etc Thanks
  22. Hi people, I have a 2008 200 series, it stalls, but only when I’m pulled up say at intersection or lights or whatever it will stall. No warning other than a slight rough idle. Once stalled the battery and a/t oil temp light are on, will start and drive fine. Any help greatly apprrciated jamie
  23. G'day everyone! Never thought after many years I'd be back behind the wheel of a Toyota but what do you know it's all come full circle. After having a gold 2007 Aurion Sportivo ZR6 for a few years. Old Members Ride Here! I said farewell to the TOCAU community and since then I'd gone down the european path with a Mk5 Golf GTI, then down the Subaru owners path with a 2005 Liberty Sedan and now since all those cars became money pits. I'm back to good 'ol reliable town with a 2005 Camry Sportivo MCV36R! It's good to be back behind the wheel of a Toyota once more! 😄
  24. Hi, I have a vdj79 v8 cruiser Ute 09 model with an airbag light that won't go off. I've replaced the clock spring but light remains on. Can anyone tell me where the airbad module is located so I can check the connections to it? Or does anyone else have any ideas. Vehicle has no seat sensors just a buckle sensor. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  25. I need extra storage space that I can neatly store my tools and other stuff that are currently cluttering my truck. While online browsing I happen to read about the DU HA underseat storage. Is it worth the money? They are currently selling for $179. Any other recommendations?
  26. Welcome too the forum David KAA
  27. Item: 2010 Toyota Estima Aeras Leather Edition (Black on Black) Location: Manning, WA, 6152 Website: Carsales Item Condition: Used Reason for Selling: Imported two on behalf of my Mother with the view to selling one of them. Price and Payment conditions: $26,500 Any additional information: ~26,000km (Export Cert supplied). English owner's manual provided. Black leather interior. 11 speaker sound system. Guiding reverse camera. Both rear doors remote powered. Heated front seats. Airbags everywhere. Traction control. Vehicle Stability Control. Brake Force Distribution. Factory 18" wheels. Factory Aeras bodykit. Dual zone climate control. Excellent condition (Grade 5 at auction). *Note that the Head Unit is G-Book from Japan and FM radio frequencies are not the same as locally. There are ways around this.* Really a very nice car! Shipping: Not willing to organise shipping on behalf of potential customer. Contact Details: David. daver at inorbit dot com, please refer to Carsales ad for phone number, or reply here!
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