Jump to content


CES Header Review

JAZE55

By JAZE55
in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club

 Share

Recommended Posts

JAZE55 Veteran

JAZE55

Posted
Posted

Well I have installed them and I must say I am impressed with the extra low-mid range torque. I was hesitant at first, but had a chat with trevor to confirm my doubts. The ports on the inlet are excellent, but the collector could have been more cleaned up. Comparing it to boosted port jobs on new celica.

I have a question for those also running the CES headers, are you guys running with or without the heatshields. I am running without and it seems as if the underbonnet temp have increased, is there anything to be worried about?

JAZE55 Veteran

JAZE55

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i have been running mine since day one without the heatsheild without any prob's

Thats good to hear northy. Reason I ask was i went to inspect my headers today after driving and put my hand on the strut brace and burnt myself :lol: lol. The area seemed a lil warmer than normal.


JAZE55 Veteran

JAZE55

Posted
  • Author
Posted
U can put the heatshield back on, but you should of did this.

=0-

The headers are HPC coated to retain heat so no need to wrap em up. Plus they are all nice and shiny so why would I want cover them up :lol:

SILVABULLIT Grand Master

SILVABULLIT

Posted
Posted
U can put the heatshield back on, but you should of did this.

=0-

The headers are HPC coated to retain heat so no need to wrap em up. Plus they are all nice and shiny so why would I want cover them up :lol:

BINGO!!! :toast:

Some of the collectors are very ordinary to say the least. I have looked at about 6 or more sets of stock headers and some were rough as and some pretty good. To totally clean up a rough set to a nice smooth surface would porting a lot out of the collector area leaving some spots pretty thin. This in turn would reduce strength and create a weak spot which in time may crack or split.

How do you like the way you can now just simply change at low rpm and have nice throttle response into the next gear. Also you can become lazy and not have to change down a gear to go up hills etc. All you have to do is squeeze the throttle a bit more.

I personally think that these headers were the thing that made my Sportivo so much better to drive day to day and then if you combine them with cat back and CAI the performance gains will put a nice big smile on your face....

JAZE55 Veteran

JAZE55

Posted
  • Author
Posted
U can put the heatshield back on, but you should of did this.

=0-

The headers are HPC coated to retain heat so no need to wrap em up. Plus they are all nice and shiny so why would I want cover them up :lol:

BINGO!!! :toast:

Some of the collectors are very ordinary to say the least. I have looked at about 6 or more sets of stock headers and some were rough as and some pretty good. To totally clean up a rough set to a nice smooth surface would porting a lot out of the collector area leaving some spots pretty thin. This in turn would reduce strength and create a weak spot which in time may crack or split.

How do you like the way you can now just simply change at low rpm and have nice throttle response into the next gear. Also you can become lazy and not have to change down a gear to go up hills etc. All you have to do is squeeze the throttle a bit more.

I personally think that these headers were the thing that made my Sportivo so much better to drive day to day and then if you combine them with cat back and CAI the performance gains will put a nice big smile on your face....

I am very happy with the difference it has made, low-midrange punch is very very good. I think its even better because i have the unichip to synergise everything

sinan Grand Master

sinan

Posted
Posted

i finally started my new job. gonna be paying the QLD members a visit and pay CES a visit. cant waitttt

JAZE55 Veteran

JAZE55

Posted
  • Author
Posted
i finally started my new job. gonna be paying the QLD members a visit and pay CES a visit. cant waitttt

Get it done once and get it done right, speak to Trevor and you wont go wrong. They have exceptional customer service and are very friendly, I recommend them very highly..... :toast: :toast: :toast:

  • 1 month later...
Dead Grand Master

Dead

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm in talks with them currently. Still a tad confused after the email I received back, but from what I gathered I have to trade in my existing headers and pay for the new ones?

Plus with the catback, I asked for the exhaust piping minus the muffler and they seemed intent on selling the muffler with it.

Edited by bADbOYz
sinan Grand Master

sinan

Posted
Posted
I'm in talks with them currently. Still a tad confused after the email I received back, but from what I gathered I have to trade in my existing headers and pay for the new ones?

Plus with the catback, I asked for the exhaust piping minus the muffler and they seemed intent on selling the muffler with it.

yeah id recommend on buying the muffler aswell. cause the muffler and components in the system were designed to work together. so if you havent got the same muffler it may be to loud or not perform as well.

Dead Grand Master

Dead

Posted
Posted
I'm in talks with them currently. Still a tad confused after the email I received back, but from what I gathered I have to trade in my existing headers and pay for the new ones?

Plus with the catback, I asked for the exhaust piping minus the muffler and they seemed intent on selling the muffler with it.

yeah id recommend on buying the muffler aswell. cause the muffler and components in the system were designed to work together. so if you havent got the same muffler it may be to loud or not perform as well.

I know why they made the muffler the way they did. I'm not forking out an additional $650 for a muffler though. I have someone who can fabricate a box for me already that's why I only need from the engine to the start of the muffler.

I'm happy giving an Exhaust place in Canberra the opportunity to design something here. I'll be the guinea pig if it comes to that.

CAP Grand Master

CAP

Posted
Posted

Perhaps just get the headers from them and get the cat to rear axle piping done locally.

Dead Grand Master

Dead

Posted
Posted
Perhaps just get the headers from them and get the cat to rear axle piping done locally.

That's what I've been thinking dude. If I have to unbolt mine and send them up there though I won't be doing that lol. I became very confused at their pricing option on it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing



  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 1

      Turboed Corolla Overbuilt?

      that engine will be fine, the rods are the main thing to be concerned about. The 2860 is a decent turbo for the 1zz but in this day and age I'd go for a G25-550. The injectors might be on the small side, we run DW1000's. You need a full length injector, the shorter injectors with adaptors like ID1050x dont fit the 1zz head. You don't need an aftermarket intake manifold, if you do go down that path, avoid the CNC innovations unit, it's garbage. Do the boost control with a MAC valve and control it with the aftermarket ECU of your choice, I use Link stuff on most of my builds with the G4x Storm as the minimum. I also wire a fuel pressure sensor and oil pressure sensor to the ECU in my installs. Use a decent intercooler, the better cores (ARE, PWR, Garrett, Vibrant, Plazmaman, Hypertune) work a lot better than the chinese stuff like Aeroflow. a 450x250-300 fits fairly well with custom end tanks to route the cooler pipes through next to the radiator Don't forget about the clutch and gearbox. These days I like the Uniclutch twinplate, Above 300whp you'll want to think about upgrading the 3rd and 4th gears in the box also with the SSC (Hollinger) gear set and install an LSD of your choice. If you're going to give it a hard time, you'll also want an oil cooler. I like the HKS thermostat type sandwich plates and setrab or mocal oil coolers with -10 speedflow fittings/lines (Chinese AN fittings neck down to a lot smaller internal diameter in their bends, not great for flow) You'll also want to think about brakes, Celica or Sportivo front calipers will bolt on with sportivo discs as a starting point. To have somewhere like Tunehouse do the work you'll want to budget somewhere between 20-40K
      CHA54 in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
    2. 3

      Camry Touring 2010 Fuel consumption 15.2L/100km. Normal?

      I did the mathematics myself regarding costs vs benefits for fuel injector cleaner. I have changed from 91ULP to 95PULP and 98PULP. Price difference can be about 13 -20 cents. Compared to 91ULP, Premium quality fuel should have a better quality additive package designed to have superior engine cleaning capabilities so the engine can perform at their best.
      campbeam in Camry Club
    3. 3

      Camry Touring 2010 Fuel consumption 15.2L/100km. Normal?

      "Fuel injector cleaner is a waste of money" Only if you by the cheap crap if you use LiquMolly a German Product it does work and you won't waste your Money.
      Aussie Camry in Camry Club
    4. 0

      Camry Touring 2010 A/C Issues.

      Hi Guys, My Camry 2010 Touring just had a regas done on it and the next day for some reason it wasn't blowing cold air but the next day it is now working with nice cold air BUT every now and then we can hear and feel a like a buzz for a few secounds and today while my sister took my I could her like a mild knock sound when stopped but goes away when driving. Any idea what this could be and the A/C is always working now for now.
      Aussie Camry in Camry Club
    5. 6

      My Toys & Collectables

      Friday the 13th added
      L4WL3SS in Club Lounge
    6. 18

      High idling on the 2zzge even when warm (solved!)

      i am in sydney, just got 1992 tarago, same problem, 2k idle speed when engine warm, changed the whole throttle body, ECU, still same, help pls in sydney 0405987988
      moxabest in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
    7. 5

      High RPM Idle after the engine warm up.

      i have same problem, already changed throttle body, ecm modle, help pls
      moxabest in Inside and Out
    8. 0

      Tow bar

      Hi guys, Just bought my new Landcruiser Prado yesterday. What is the difference between Onroad Towner and Off road Towbar
      Kiru in Prado Club
    9. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

      Generally, yes. In the 60s, and earlier, there were cars with positive grounds, so I'm always a bit hesitant to say the negative wire. It is always the one that bolts to the body. Herb
      ozieagle in Landcruiser Club
    10. 0

      2011 Land Cruiser 1VD-FTV Engine Won't Start After Overhaul

      Hi everyone, I have a 2011 Land Cruiser VDJ200 with a 1VD-FTV engine. I recently had the engine fully overhauled due to a blown head gasket. However, after the overhaul, the engine is not starting. It only cranks but doesn't fire. I've checked the following DTC codes: Internal memory EEPROM error Low rail pressure The actual rail pressure data shows: 240 bar during cranking 61 bar when ignition is off Based on these findings, I suspect the following potential causes: =Defective Diesel High-Pressure Pump =Leaking Piezoelectric Injectors =Diesel Fuel Bypassing to the DPF Circuit =Faulty Injector Drivers I'm hoping for some expert advice to help diagnose and resolve this problem I'm seeking expert advice on how to troubleshoot and resolve this issue. Any suggestions or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
      kevin200 in Landcruiser Club
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums

News

Membership