Front and rear anti roll (sway) bar install

[SuperDave]

Disclaimer:

Read this guide through completely before commencing to ensure that you are competent in doing the work yourself. By following this guide you are accepting full responsibility and I will not be held responsible, directly or indirectly, for any damage or anything else caused by following this guide.

After doing suspension work always double check that you have torque-d everything up and double check it all after a few hundred kilometers of driving or earlier if there are any new noises.

Front anti roll (sway) bar

1. Undo the front wheels nuts, but don’t take them off just yet.

2. Jack the front of the car up and support it on jack stands.

3. Now remove the wheels

4. Undo the anti roll bar mounts circled pink (XXmm) below. These will be tricky due to their location and the power steering hardline being in the way on the right hand side of the car. The bolt at the rear of these can only be accessed via a spanner from underneath the car. If these are too hard to get to, this step could be tried later on when the sub frame has been lowered.

5. Undo the anti roll bar end links circled yellow (17mm) and remove the bolt circled in green (19mm). This can be accessed via the hole in the lower suspension arm. Double check that the end links can fit into the new anti roll bar. If not you may have the ZZE122 item or there might be a tiny bit too much paint in the hole. The first option you can either drill it out with a few drill bits or return it and wait for the next production run of ZZE123 items. The second issue is solved with a small file. While here, undo the strut bottom (dark purple, 19mm) and disconnect the brake hose from its mount (dark green, 14mm).

6. While underneath the car undo the bolts circled(14 and 20mm). The two red ones to the left are hidden within the sub frame. I included a better picture of the rear engine mount bolts (the ones circled red). I included a picture of how the sub frame looks while it is hanging down.

7. There should now be enough of a gap to pull the anti roll bar out the back. Might need someone to help muscling this out and putting the new one in. The new one goes straight in the same way the old one came out. The slit in the new D-bushes should be facing the rear of the car and be on the outside of the locator rings, also apply plenty of the supplied lube to the bush and the bar.

8. Reassembly is the reverse of the steps above. However when reattaching the sub frame do not fully tighten all the bolts as you will need to move it around to line everything back up again. There are two alignment holes to help with this, one of these is shown with a white circle.

9. The torque settings are listed below;

Blue: 155Nm

Red: 55Nm

Green: 155Nm

Yellow: 75Nm

Pink: 25Nm

Dark green: 30Nm

Dark purple: 150Nm

10. Before putting the wheels on and after everything is torque-d up, grab the end link on each side and shake it around to make sure that there isn’t any excessive movement within the mounts. If there is, take the mounts off and close them up slightly by bending them. Only needs to be a millimeter or so! When doing the end links, if they spin before torque-d up correctly, apply a little WD40 to the threads and try again.

11.Put the wheels back on, lower the car, torque the nuts up to 100Nm.

Rear anti roll (sway) bar

Method 1.

1. Undo the rear wheel nuts, but don’t take them off just yet.

2. Jack the rear of the car up and support it on jack stands and take the hand brake off.

3. Now remove the wheels.

4. Undo the bolts are each end. You will need a breaker bar, or muscles, and another socket/spanner to go over the nut (19mm).

5. Once the bolts have been taken off, remove the bar and put the new one in its place. Be careful to note the correct orientation, the bend faces the rear of the car with the longer part of the mounts being down. Only bolt one end up loosely as you may need to jiggle the bar around to get it to line up at the other end. Torque these up to 150Nm.

6.Put the wheels back and re-apply the handbrake, lower the car, torque the nuts up to 100Nm.

Method 2.

1. Crawl under the car and using a 19mm socket with the breaker bar and a spanner undo the bolts at the ends.

2. Follow step 5 in Method 1.

3. And your done!

[CHA54]

it's best to unbolt the A-arms from the bottom of the hubs instead of unbolting the hubs from the struts. With the hubs hanging down not connected to the struts it's very easy for the CV boots to develop splits which will leak the grease everywhere.

[SuperDave]

it's best to unbolt the A-arms from the bottom of the hubs instead of unbolting the hubs from the struts. With the hubs hanging down not connected to the struts it's very easy for the CV boots to develop splits which will leak the grease everywhere.

Good advice, next time the car(s) is up I'll check out the boots.

[MT]

Thanks to Dave, I did this today and its a b*tch to get the rear off.

My problem was that after I got the bolts out, I still couldnt remove the bar. What I did was bet a flat head screwdriver and put it in the hole to lever the bar out.

Also good for aligning the second side when putting the new one in.

Cheers Dave

[MR22ZZ]

WTF Mick... you watched me do this swap on the side of the road last year.

As if you can't just do it in 10 minutes.

[Kenshin X]

sorry bumping old old thread but is it possible to tighten the rear sway under bar with hands? since its possible to undo it with hands so i'm guessing its also possible tightening with hands?

[SuperDave]

sorry bumping old old thread but is it possible to tighten the rear sway under bar with hands? since its possible to undo it with hands so i'm guessing its also possible tightening with hands?

How do you mean, with hand tools, or literally by hand (fingers)? I assume you mean hand tools. Yes it can be done, but from factory they will be very stiff and require a long breaker bar. Follow the torque settings in the guide for doing them up.

And by underbar, are you referring to the Ultra Racing one, or the one that mounts in the standard position?

[Kenshin X]

sorry bumping old old thread but is it possible to tighten the rear sway under bar with hands? since its possible to undo it with hands so i'm guessing its also possible tightening with hands?

How do you mean, with hand tools, or literally by hand (fingers)? I assume you mean hand tools. Yes it can be done, but from factory they will be very stiff and require a long breaker bar. Follow the torque settings in the guide for doing them up.

And by underbar, are you referring to the Ultra Racing one, or the one that mounts in the standard position?

ahh sorry my bad. i meant hand tools (haha hands only :P) i'm talking about the rear sway bar. i got the whiteline 22mm one (BTR77)

and the original question i was asking was that can u do up the bolts with the hand tools... as i dont have a torque spanner wrench...

i tightened my front strut with just hand tools (but not overly tight) as the bolts were smaller... i assume the larger the bolt, the more force i can use without rounding or ruining threads...

cheers

[Kenshin X]

Ahh help! The whiteline bar is a little bigger on the joints compared to my old torsion beam!!! I tried to hammer it in a bit but its tight as!!!

Yes it is the right part <_<

[SuperDave]

Yeah, it's a very tight fit in the axle beam. Typically easier to get one end in first with the bolt done up loosely and then swing the other end in. I would recommend torquing the rear antiroll bar bolts up correctly as they can easily work loose and make a nice clunking noise if not tight enough.

[ImPulse]

Hmm, car's sitting in the carport right now in the air. Anyone got any useful tips on how to get the second side to align up? The first (passenger side) hole is set, bolted in loosely. I've swung the second part in, but the hole doesn't seem to line up perfectly, can't get the bolt in.

Its like a mm off... <_<

Alf

[SuperDave]

Are you refering to the anti-roll bar mount, or the subframe? I'll assume the anti-roll bar mount; I ended up modifying the Whiteline mounts to suit the car as they didn't fit correctly either.

[ImPulse]

Dave,

Referring to the anti-roll/torsion bar itself. It is as noted above, a tight fit, but the holes dont seem to line up perfectly - its like 1mm off. What do you think of me buying a slightly smaller bolt/nut and using that instead? Cos I can put something thru to hold it to the axle beam, just not what was there stock..

Alf

Edit: what modification was needed for you? Your photos show a TRD rear sway rather than a whiteline one?

Edited June 19, 2011 by ImPulse

[SuperDave]

Dave,

Referring to the anti-roll/torsion bar itself. It is as noted above, a tight fit, but the holes dont seem to line up perfectly - its like 1mm off. What do you think of me buying a slightly smaller bolt/nut and using that instead? Cos I can put something thru to hold it to the axle beam, just not what was there stock..

Alf

Edit: what modification was needed for you? Your photos show a TRD rear sway rather than a whiteline one?

Oh, your talking about the rear, I misunderstood. Is it 1mm too long or too short? might need to employ some heating/freezing to change the length.

[Kenshin X]

Dave,

Referring to the anti-roll/torsion bar itself. It is as noted above, a tight fit, but the holes dont seem to line up perfectly - its like 1mm off. What do you think of me buying a slightly smaller bolt/nut and using that instead? Cos I can put something thru to hold it to the axle beam, just not what was there stock..

Alf

Edit: what modification was needed for you? Your photos show a TRD rear sway rather than a whiteline one?

Oh, your talking about the rear, I misunderstood. Is it 1mm too long or too short? might need to employ some heating/freezing to change the length.

or if its brand new, just send it back to whiteline and they will give u a new one. i remember mine was 3mm out and they organised a courier to come pick up the package and they sent the new one with a white line t-shirt! :)

[Kenshin X]

hey guys is the part number for this 48812-ZE200?