Just bought an 03 Sportivo. What should I do?

[Guni]

New to the forum.

New to the 2003 Stivo with 52,000 KM on the clock. Stock. Got it off a Mitsu 2nd hand dealer.

I've read through as much as I can through the forum but its all too over-whelming and confusing. No offense. I'm a noob.

The following is the history of my car for the past 2 months.

When I got it, no serviced was done for the 50,000. Cheap Skates. I know that because the first 3 service (1000, 10,000 20,000) which was done in the first 3 years was at toyota. The previous owner only did mileage servicing and not time servicing. The 30,000 and 40,000 was done at K-Mart !!@#@#%%

Even the blind of all blind and idiots of all idiots would know they nv service, at least properly. I use to own a 1994 Hyundai Excel and I won't even bring it there for service.

Anyway, back to my new stivo. I dropped it to my mechanic immediately on the day i got it and he change all oils, belts and other fluids including the coolant and diff oils.

The only issue i have is with the gear shift. Its sticky, clunky and not smooth. That was before I got the car, before I serviced and after I serviced. My mechanic told me he put in 75W90 gear oil. A week later, he had to drain it and put in RedLine ShockProof LightWeight which according to the bottle, doesn't need changing for 400,000KM. Hmmmm..........

So result is, the shift is a little smoother especially when changing gears at high revs but still notchy when shifting in between gears at low revs (below 5000). Changing to and from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th still feels ****. Wander if I have to run it in ?????? I understand Stivo are prone to this issue and having read what some fellow owners have done (changing clutch, adjusting the original clutch), is there any other alternative???? I'm assuming my car is out of warranty because its 2003 so will bringing it back to Toyota whilst bitching and moaning make them fix it for me for free? I rang Toyota and the recall for the ECU and Air filler cap on this car has been fixed.

My ultimate question is, can i bring it back to Toyota with all this issues and have them fix it for me under warranty or existing/known problems?

Anything else I can do which can elevate my issues? (just throw everything here but nothing over the top like changing clutch as I'm not prepared to spend that kind of money).

Is there any difference to the 03, 04 and 05 stivos other than the price? The latter models RRP for 1000 less then the 03 model.

What mods can I put in to make my car go faster without making it un-roadworthy? I would still also like to maintain ride comfort.

I have identified a few areas which I will do from reading through this forum but was wandering if more can be done specifically to address the lack of power on the lower revs (no torque till u hit more than 5500 RPM).

The following is what I'll be doing:-

- Changing air filter to K & N replacement air filter and modifying the air intake to come from the bottom up for cold air (is pod filter a viable alternative for a N/A car?)

- Port & Polish Headers and Change exhaust

- Lowered springs (looking at Kings) (also juggling at the prospect of coilovers but i still want comfort and i'm not tracking. This is a road, everyday car)

- Strut car across the engine bay (tie bar and strut bar at the rear required too???)

- Putting in one of those Tornado Vortec things into the air-pipe between the airbox and the throttle body (anyone had them put in before? Feedback?)

- Remote start and button start ( any feedback from anyone who has done this before???? brand?? installer???)

I'm thinking of keeping the stock RIMs but change the tyres. The dealer has some alcheapo Hankook Optimo just to pass RWC. Will change that back to the original bridgestones ER30 when these goes.

I appreciate any feedback or suggestions that anyone might have in order to help me acheive my goal. Performance with ride comfort.

Thank you everyone. My hands are tired now..............

[Guni]

Oh, another thing.

What is CAI ?

[Leroy]

Oh, another thing.

What is CAI ?

Haha...normally you would banished from this site for asking such noob questions. BUUUTTT... you wrote so nicely. You are hereby forgiven. :D

It may be worth your while to to read "list of previously covered topics" at the top of the corolla section. It covers everything you have listed in your post.

A CAI (Cold air intake) is exactly what you thought about doing with "...Changing air filter to K & N replacement air filter and modifying the air intake to come from the bottom up for cold air..." Big bit of pipe runs from airbox down to the bottom somewhere, with a pod filter tacked on the end. The other guys will tell you more...

In terms of ride comfort, Kings are not the way to go (unless you want to spend on changing the shocks as well). Current activity on this site would suggest that Cusco Zero 1's or Tein Super Wagon model coilover suspension is the way to go (for approx 1.5 grand).

Any other questions, just ask away... just make sure to do a bit of homework first (in any section, there is a search button at the bottom of the page)!!

Welcome aboard!

Edited May 28, 2008 by Leroy

[Sportivo VVTL-i]

Oh, another thing.

What is CAI ?

Theres a group buy on TRD CAI at the moment, you might want to look in to it instead of buying the K&N filter and modifying your air intake box

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...mp;#entry240995

[bonbon]

momo is selling a strut bar here

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...c=15700&hl=

[RME1]

The Ultimate Tuning Guide

The Members Ride section is also good start

[Guni]

Oh, another thing.

What is CAI ?

Haha...normally you would banished from this site for asking such noob questions. BUUUTTT... you wrote so nicely. You are hereby forgiven. :D

It may be worth your while to to read "list of previously covered topics" at the top of the corolla section. It covers everything you have listed in your post.

A CAI (Cold air intake) is exactly what you thought about doing with "...Changing air filter to K & N replacement air filter and modifying the air intake to come from the bottom up for cold air..." Big bit of pipe runs from airbox down to the bottom somewhere, with a pod filter tacked on the end. The other guys will tell you more...

In terms of ride comfort, Kings are not the way to go (unless you want to spend on changing the shocks as well). Current activity on this site would suggest that Cusco Zero 1's or Tein Super Wagon model coilover suspension is the way to go (for approx 1.5 grand).

Any other questions, just ask away... just make sure to do a bit of homework first (in any section, there is a search button at the bottom of the page)!!

Welcome aboard!

Yeah, seen that section and read too much stuff all over the place. Information overloaded and now I'm confused. Coilovers are best of the best but they are higher in costs too? The Kings springs i'm after is low but not super low so the stock shocks should still be able to handle it??? read about the Cusco Zero 1's, gonna set me back heaps for all 4.

For the Cold Air Intake, where can I find reference to the TRD CAI? Pics? What other CAI can I consider? I was just thinking of putting some DIY piping from bunnings and attach to the air box myself. I'll make sure its secure of course. Advisable?

Oh, another thing.

What is CAI ?

Theres a group buy on TRD CAI at the moment, you might want to look in to it instead of buying the K&N filter and modifying your air intake box

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...mp;#entry240995

Thanks. But was too late for that. They already ordered and there was no one else in VIC for it.

momo is selling a strut bar here

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...c=15700&hl=

Anyone local around Melb ???? :P Thanks anyways.

The Ultimate Tuning Guide

The Members Ride section is also good start

Was looking throught that thread. Read almost all of it except a few. Nice job compiling there.

Thanks.

[Dead]

The close ratio box in the Sportivo's / Celica's are like a well crafted sword.

They're extremely powerful, once you've mastered how to use them. The notchy feeling is perfectly normal, and I prefer it that way. The gear changes feel more direct (and apparently it makes me sound like Paul Walker upshifting on FF *starts masturbating*).

I'd ignore people bagging the car because of the gear box and motor design. It's very powerful when used properly. The 1/4 times are proof of this.

eg:

Noobs like the writers from Wheels Magazine couldn't understand how use the close ratio box coupled with the high revving motor, because they lack brain functionality when substantially large amounts of money aren't involved.

[Guest ddonggae]

eg:

Noobs like the writers from Wheels Magazine couldn't understand how use the close ratio box coupled with the high revving motor, because they lack brain functionality when substantially large amounts of money aren't involved.

highly agreed.

although hot4s staff make wheels staff look like brain surgeons lol

[Dead]

eg:

Noobs like the writers from Wheels Magazine couldn't understand how use the close ratio box coupled with the high revving motor, because they lack brain functionality when substantially large amounts of money aren't involved.

highly agreed.

although hot4s staff make wheels staff look like brain surgeons lol

Ah yes Master Dong. Something like this?

"This car has turbo. Sikfuk. 5 starz uleh."

[selyaT]

*sigh*

[Kenneth]

*sigh*

lol.. x2 ...

[Dead]

*sigh*

Quiet you. I need your help with forming a Melodysky Equation later btw.

[CAP]

Wow that was a very long post.

Welcome. :D

Changing the gearbox oil was a good idea, but you just need to get used to the notchiness, it's just how the gearbox is, especially when the syncros start to wear over time.

When it comes to suspension just buy in accordance to how well you NEED the car to handle. ie - are you just going to be driving on the streets? do you like to venture out onto the odd mountain run? will you be visiting the track from time to time?

[whitestivo]

As a new member, many different opinions are around, and you have to decide.

For my 5 cents, rear swaybar is best upgrade to make for the cash. I did it and rave about it.

*****, I'm now thinking about putting a rear sway bar on my wheelbarrow.

Whitestivo

[Dead]

The only time a larger rear sway bar is overkill is when you have coilovers imo.

Also, if you installed a rear sway onto yourself, then your partner may experience more of a happy ending whilst getting gigiddy.

[mrs.sportivo]

eg:

Noobs like the writers from Wheels Magazine couldn't understand how use the close ratio box coupled with the high revving motor, because they lack brain functionality when substantially large amounts of money aren't involved.

highly agreed.

although hot4s staff make wheels staff look like brain surgeons lol

lols my friend works for hot4's and well LOL i think u should just wait till June to see something special in the magazines

LMFAOOOO - dont kill me ____, im sure you've told some people by now.

[SILVABULLIT]

New to the forum.

New to the 2003 Stivo with 52,000 KM on the clock. Stock. Got it off a Mitsu 2nd hand dealer.

I've read through as much as I can through the forum but its all too over-whelming and confusing. No offense. I'm a noob.

The following is the history of my car for the past 2 months.

When I got it, no serviced was done for the 50,000. Cheap Skates. I know that because the first 3 service (1000, 10,000 20,000) which was done in the first 3 years was at toyota. The previous owner only did mileage servicing and not time servicing. The 30,000 and 40,000 was done at K-Mart !!@#@#%%

Even the blind of all blind and idiots of all idiots would know they nv service, at least properly. I use to own a 1994 Hyundai Excel and I won't even bring it there for service.

Anyway, back to my new stivo. I dropped it to my mechanic immediately on the day i got it and he change all oils, belts and other fluids including the coolant and diff oils.

The only issue i have is with the gear shift. Its sticky, clunky and not smooth. That was before I got the car, before I serviced and after I serviced. My mechanic told me he put in 75W90 gear oil. A week later, he had to drain it and put in RedLine ShockProof LightWeight which according to the bottle, doesn't need changing for 400,000KM. Hmmmm..........

So result is, the shift is a little smoother especially when changing gears at high revs but still notchy when shifting in between gears at low revs (below 5000). Changing to and from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th still feels ****. Wander if I have to run it in ?????? I understand Stivo are prone to this issue and having read what some fellow owners have done (changing clutch, adjusting the original clutch), is there any other alternative???? I'm assuming my car is out of warranty because its 2003 so will bringing it back to Toyota whilst bitching and moaning make them fix it for me for free? I rang Toyota and the recall for the ECU and Air filler cap on this car has been fixed.

My ultimate question is, can i bring it back to Toyota with all this issues and have them fix it for me under warranty or existing/known problems?

Anything else I can do which can elevate my issues? (just throw everything here but nothing over the top like changing clutch as I'm not prepared to spend that kind of money).

Is there any difference to the 03, 04 and 05 stivos other than the price? The latter models RRP for 1000 less then the 03 model.

What mods can I put in to make my car go faster without making it un-roadworthy? I would still also like to maintain ride comfort.

I have identified a few areas which I will do from reading through this forum but was wandering if more can be done specifically to address the lack of power on the lower revs (no torque till u hit more than 5500 RPM).

The following is what I'll be doing:-

- Changing air filter to K & N replacement air filter and modifying the air intake to come from the bottom up for cold air (is pod filter a viable alternative for a N/A car?)

I have a second hand K&N panel filter if you are interested. Cold Air intake is the best way to go but start with what you can afford.

- Port & Polish Headers and Change exhaust

CES is a good option here.

- Lowered springs (looking at Kings) (also juggling at the prospect of coilovers but i still want comfort and i'm not tracking. This is a road, everyday car)

king springs are good and match them with some Koni's or KYB's as stock shocks won't last long on lowered springs.

- Strut car across the engine bay (tie bar and strut bar at the rear required too???)

Many options here. Depends if you are a sucker for putting brand name stuff on your car or not and paying the price of that name. TRD, whiteline all are pretty good. Heavier rear sway is a must!! Leave the front sway stock for what you need.

- Putting in one of those Tornado Vortec things into the air-pipe between the airbox and the throttle body (anyone had them put in before? Feedback?)

They don't work and end up causing a restriction in the air flow. don't worry about it.

- Remote start and button start ( any feedback from anyone who has done this before???? brand?? installer???)

Can be done. Check out Danthuyer's car in the registry section as he had one.(Yoshi now owns this car. Is the start button still in it ??Dunno)

I'm thinking of keeping the stock RIMs but change the tyres. The dealer has some alcheapo Hankook Optimo just to pass RWC. Will change that back to the original bridgestones ER30 when these goes.

Forget the ER30's. They are ordinary and very expensive to replace. Depending on how you drive and whether you want mileage,wet/dry grip or handling depends on which direstion you go here. Yokohama's are a pretty safe bet and good in all categories.

I appreciate any feedback or suggestions that anyone might have in order to help me acheive my goal. Performance with ride comfort.

My car performed well and rode nicely too. My wife drove this car to work everyday and never whinged about the ride at all.Have a look in the registry section. All the info is in there and what mods to do. Heaps of nice cars to give you ideas about as well. welcome to TOCAU and hopefully you will find all the info you need. Do some searches using the search button or check the registry then PM the owner asking them for more info if needed.

Thank you everyone. My hands are tired now..............

[yoshi]

Yes the little blue button is still where the cigarette lighter should be.

Because it would be a stupid thing to remove the imobiliser from the car, the key still needs to be in the ignition and turned for the button to work. I'm not a huge fan of it, but I don't smoke so I leave it. The blue light from it gets a bit annoying sometimes when driving at night.

[Guni]

Yes the little blue button is still where the cigarette lighter should be.

Because it would be a stupid thing to remove the imobiliser from the car, the key still needs to be in the ignition and turned for the button to work. I'm not a huge fan of it, but I don't smoke so I leave it. The blue light from it gets a bit annoying sometimes when driving at night.

Thanks Yoshi. Saw that in the registry already.

On another note, I've come across some reports that pod filters on NA cars actually degrade performance. Its because they (stivo generally) rely on the air resonators to be efficient. I know that most forum users has the TRD CAI installed and those who haven't are drooling dreaming of it. Being a noob and a new proud but careful owner, I have to ask this question, is the TRD CAI a genuine performance enhancer and can I have some testiominals from real users of this mod??? I'm not brand crazy so I just go for those that works. No offence to the TRD enthusiast. Is this a branding/marketing ploy? :P Noob people. Don't kill me. The more answers the earlier the better as I will be trying to get the GB from XploShun.

Thanks guys.

[selyaT]

Yes the little blue button is still where the cigarette lighter should be.

Because it would be a stupid thing to remove the imobiliser from the car, the key still needs to be in the ignition and turned for the button to work. I'm not a huge fan of it, but I don't smoke so I leave it. The blue light from it gets a bit annoying sometimes when driving at night.

Thanks Yoshi. Saw that in the registry already.

On another note, I've come across some reports that pod filters on NA cars actually degrade performance. Its because they (stivo generally) rely on the air resonators to be efficient. I know that most forum users has the TRD CAI installed and those who haven't are drooling dreaming of it. Being a noob and a new proud but careful owner, I have to ask this question, is the TRD CAI a genuine performance enhancer and can I have some testiominals from real users of this mod??? I'm not brand crazy so I just go for those that works. No offence to the TRD enthusiast. Is this a branding/marketing ploy? :P Noob people. Don't kill me. The more answers the earlier the better as I will be trying to get the GB from XploShun.

Thanks guys.

A standard Sportivo will dyno between 105-110kW at the wheels. Recently in Canberra we had two Sportivo's, one with just TRD CAI, one with AEM CAI and aftermarket 2.5" exhaust, both pulled in excess of 120kW at the wheels.

Extensive testing was done by a company in Qld called CES if you want to be strict and use figures from the same dyno on the same day. Silvabullit will have the info on the exact figures but the CAI adds an extra 7kW at the wheels on aggregate. Yes, some N/A cars are so well tuned from factory that intake and exhaust mods often restrict performance further, Honda S2000 springs to mind. Do you think if it was the case with the Corolla Sportivo that so many people here would be using prefab aftermarket intakes? Not likely. Go the CAI, hear the noise, and slap yourself across the head for ever doubting it

"Just bought an 03 Sportivo. What should I do?"

Avoid the new topic button

[Guni]

Hey Silvabullit,

How much would the mods you mention below costs?

Guan

New to the forum.

New to the 2003 Stivo with 52,000 KM on the clock. Stock. Got it off a Mitsu 2nd hand dealer.

I've read through as much as I can through the forum but its all too over-whelming and confusing. No offense. I'm a noob.

The following is the history of my car for the past 2 months.

When I got it, no serviced was done for the 50,000. Cheap Skates. I know that because the first 3 service (1000, 10,000 20,000) which was done in the first 3 years was at toyota. The previous owner only did mileage servicing and not time servicing. The 30,000 and 40,000 was done at K-Mart !!@#@#%%

Even the blind of all blind and idiots of all idiots would know they nv service, at least properly. I use to own a 1994 Hyundai Excel and I won't even bring it there for service.

Anyway, back to my new stivo. I dropped it to my mechanic immediately on the day i got it and he change all oils, belts and other fluids including the coolant and diff oils.

The only issue i have is with the gear shift. Its sticky, clunky and not smooth. That was before I got the car, before I serviced and after I serviced. My mechanic told me he put in 75W90 gear oil. A week later, he had to drain it and put in RedLine ShockProof LightWeight which according to the bottle, doesn't need changing for 400,000KM. Hmmmm..........

So result is, the shift is a little smoother especially when changing gears at high revs but still notchy when shifting in between gears at low revs (below 5000). Changing to and from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th still feels ****. Wander if I have to run it in ?????? I understand Stivo are prone to this issue and having read what some fellow owners have done (changing clutch, adjusting the original clutch), is there any other alternative???? I'm assuming my car is out of warranty because its 2003 so will bringing it back to Toyota whilst bitching and moaning make them fix it for me for free? I rang Toyota and the recall for the ECU and Air filler cap on this car has been fixed.

My ultimate question is, can i bring it back to Toyota with all this issues and have them fix it for me under warranty or existing/known problems?

Anything else I can do which can elevate my issues? (just throw everything here but nothing over the top like changing clutch as I'm not prepared to spend that kind of money).

Is there any difference to the 03, 04 and 05 stivos other than the price? The latter models RRP for 1000 less then the 03 model.

What mods can I put in to make my car go faster without making it un-roadworthy? I would still also like to maintain ride comfort.

I have identified a few areas which I will do from reading through this forum but was wandering if more can be done specifically to address the lack of power on the lower revs (no torque till u hit more than 5500 RPM).

The following is what I'll be doing:-

- Changing air filter to K & N replacement air filter and modifying the air intake to come from the bottom up for cold air (is pod filter a viable alternative for a N/A car?)

I have a second hand K&N panel filter if you are interested. Cold Air intake is the best way to go but start with what you can afford.

- Port & Polish Headers and Change exhaust

CES is a good option here.

- Lowered springs (looking at Kings) (also juggling at the prospect of coilovers but i still want comfort and i'm not tracking. This is a road, everyday car)

king springs are good and match them with some Koni's or KYB's as stock shocks won't last long on lowered springs.

- Strut car across the engine bay (tie bar and strut bar at the rear required too???)

Many options here. Depends if you are a sucker for putting brand name stuff on your car or not and paying the price of that name. TRD, whiteline all are pretty good. Heavier rear sway is a must!! Leave the front sway stock for what you need.

- Putting in one of those Tornado Vortec things into the air-pipe between the airbox and the throttle body (anyone had them put in before? Feedback?)

They don't work and end up causing a restriction in the air flow. don't worry about it.

- Remote start and button start ( any feedback from anyone who has done this before???? brand?? installer???)

Can be done. Check out Danthuyer's car in the registry section as he had one.(Yoshi now owns this car. Is the start button still in it ??Dunno)

I'm thinking of keeping the stock RIMs but change the tyres. The dealer has some alcheapo Hankook Optimo just to pass RWC. Will change that back to the original bridgestones ER30 when these goes.

Forget the ER30's. They are ordinary and very expensive to replace. Depending on how you drive and whether you want mileage,wet/dry grip or handling depends on which direstion you go here. Yokohama's are a pretty safe bet and good in all categories.

I appreciate any feedback or suggestions that anyone might have in order to help me acheive my goal. Performance with ride comfort.

My car performed well and rode nicely too. My wife drove this car to work everyday and never whinged about the ride at all.Have a look in the registry section. All the info is in there and what mods to do. Heaps of nice cars to give you ideas about as well. welcome to TOCAU and hopefully you will find all the info you need. Do some searches using the search button or check the registry then PM the owner asking them for more info if needed.

Thank you everyone. My hands are tired now..............

[Kenneth]

about time someone should tell you this..

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?act=Search

[DANZZT231]

Kenneth,

that white Corolla on your signature, is that car using Enkei RPF1?

[SILVABULLIT]

CES do a package (CAI,headers and cat back) for about $1700 from memory. Call them to get the exact price.

springs and shocks for the lowered look would cost roughly $1000

rear sway bar is about $200(whiteline)other brands are dearer

Front strut brace roughly $175(whiteline)other brands are dearer

as far as tyres go roughly around the $220 to $280 a tyre depending on your choice

Prices for suspension stuff are the prices i sell the stuff for. RRP and some other outlets will be a fair bit more expensive.