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  1. Well, I do know first hand that the filter housing has a torque spec of 25Nm. I stupidly over-tightened mine years ago and broke several filter removal tools trying to get it off. This was before I noticed the "25Nm" guide cast into the bottom of the housing. So I'm thinking that the drain bung is probably the same value and with mine being difficult to get off may have something to do with my past ignorance lol..
    2 points
  2. You could try throwing a few doses of “Fuel Doctor” into it. You get it from Supercheap etc and it’s a green liquid. in short it’s a fuel stabiliser and treatment that deals with “stale fuel”. I know what you’re thinking “I use the car and fill it up every week etc, I can’t have stale fuel”. Well here’s the flip side. Once you’ve got a stale fuel in the tank it will contaminate the next full and the next full so the car never really gets past it. One of the signs of this are some very very bad exhaust smells, a much more “eye watering” chemical odour. Our MX5 was really bad for this, as it gets driven sub 2000km/year. I dose it quarterly with Fuel Doctor and it’s “back to normal”. It’s not cheap, but I’m my experience it’s worth the expense and did address a similar problem.
    2 points
  3. Nice discovery mate, always good to look back and read what they thought about our beauties, I know ours has stood the test of time and is still a total pleasure to climb into every time and cruise our "Faye" may be a 2009 model but still feels brand new. KAA
    2 points
  4. Recently purchased an inspection camera mainly to check for oil sludge in the engine. Having a dual lens camera is quite useful being able to have both a side view and a straight ahead view. I also opted for the 2 metre cable. The unit fits nicely in the hand, the 4.3" screen is a decent size and the built-in rechargable battery is a useful feature. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002350018686.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dv94NHw P40 8mm Single Dual Lens Industrial Endoscope 1080P HD 4.3 " LCD Digital Inspection Camera WIth Hard wire for Car Engine Drain It came packaged in a cardboard box so will transfer it to a clear plastic lunch box.
    2 points
  5. Definitely annoyed. Lots more attention planned. In the meantime, I have done a few tips and tricks under the engine cover to help the desludging. "Sludgy" is now behaving herself and I rewarded her with a brief Italian Tune Up. Inspection camera has just arrived [still unopened] so will get batteries to be ready to use when I next drop the engine oil.
    2 points
  6. I have got a more basic serpentine belt kit which did the job for me. However, I can see the benefit of spending the extra $$$ for a more comprehensive kit. I previously acquired a set of 6 extra long spanners with zero offset from Trade Tools. Got the 8mm size but missing 11mm, 20mm and 21mm. The extra 7th spanner makes your selected kit that bit more comprehensive. The extra length does give you more leverage for undoing those bolts in restricted spaces where you may not be able to fit another tool. I do have a separate 24mm ring spanner that I picked up from a clearance bin at either SuperCheap Auto or Autobarn. It is my goto spanner for the refill bolt on the side of the Aurion's auto transmission. More than likely I picked it up to complete a larger size range not realizing at the time that it was going to be so handy.
    2 points
  7. I recently got into a situation where my Aurion hesitated upon hard acceleration from a low speed. An internet article suggested that a solution or part of the solution would be to clean the throttle position sensor. Started doing some research and eBay listings indicated that this sensor was a bolt on part. However, as I discovered when I actually removed the throttle body on my 40 series Aurion, the throttle position sensor is actually riveted to the throttle body. Attached picture is from an eBay listing for a used throttle body and you can see that it can do with a decent clean before being fitted.. I had recently cleaned the throttle body when it was attached to the intake and decided to give it a more thorough clean. As I could not actually remove the throttle position sensor, I placed the throttle body so that the shaft for the butterfly valve was vertical. I then sprayed some WD40 into the area a few times and let the WD40 penetrate and hopefully do some cleaning. This was done to both ends of the shaft. Upon reassembly, I attached the lower coolant hose to the throttle body then using a small funnel was able to pour some coolant into the upper coolant hose until coolant spurted out of the throttle body. Upper coolant hose was then refitted. It took a few attempts to start the engine before it started. I was thinking that the engine was idling higher a bit noisier, then discovered that I had not refitted a hose from the oil catch can to the intake. Everything sounded normal after refitting that hose so ready for a test drive which ended up being a drive to a beach on the Gold Coast. All good because I was able to test some hard acceleration from 80kph[roadworks] back up to 110kph speed limit. Later when coming home after exiting the freeway, I had a few more tests from a stationery stop at the traffic lights up to the various speed limits. Acceleration and gear changes were totally smooth and I attribute this to a lot of recent maintenance as well as this additional cleaning. Main finding is that it was worthwhile to remove the throttle body to be able to give it that extra bit of a thorough clean to be just like new
    2 points
  8. LOL as Paul Hogan would say NOW THATS A SPANNER, great additions mate ty for the Pic's KAA
    2 points
  9. Sebastian and I had a spa date in the garage for about 7 hours today. I’ve shown some of the swirling and paint damage before - and I had compounded a stack of the body, that’s the hazy look to the quarter in the foreground but didn’t do the boot lid, rear bumper or roof. I’d gone pretty hard on the bonnet leaving only the worst of the damage. But again, only with a diminishing compound and not a final polish. Today this was going to change. Roof compounded - yes the compound is a diminishing type and when worked fully dry will give a near complete finish. The clouded areas I had worked the compound damp (stops it from breaking down, increasing the cut time). Bonnet after final polishing. There’s still the deeper scratches etc but for the most part the finish is as good as it is going to get without risking the clear coat. After a lot more polishing, and then two (heavy) coats of Ceramic. His bad side, the rear door and quarter have had some of the worst paint repair I’ve ever seen. I might end up repainting the door myself if it gets to me enough. But for now it reflects nicely. The other side is factory paint, and while it has some mediocre scratch repairs they’re blended a little better after the compounding and polishing. I like the art level of capturing our other cars in the shot too 🙂 A close up reminder of where we started and where we are at right now.
    1 point
  10. Good evening everyone, I decided that even though my old tyres (RE003) had a bit of life left in them, that I would replace them early. After looking at an online comparison (link below), I decided to try these out. These have a healthy about of RIM protection (in my size), So far this is only day 2 (and yet to be driven today, but I will very soon), but compared to the previous RE003 I have noticed improved levels of grip (mostly dry driving, nothing I would call a wet road), A different feel through the steering wheel, and maybe lower fuel use (checking the cars fuel use on my usual route). The different feel is that the RE003 seemed to want to remain going straight (in a good way), and required an amount of force to change direction. To me this wasn't bad, it felt nice and stable especially on the highway (I haven't tried out the Potenza Sport on the highway yet). So far I haven't felt any slip, so I may need to drive harder.... 😉 In my tyre size which is 225/45 R18 these cost $285 each (now on Jax website for $279) Considering that in the review the 2 other UUHP tyres were the Pilot Sport 4S (not available in my size, but is available in 225/40R18), and the Goodyear F1 Supersport $389, My choice was pretty simple, though I was honestly waiting on the RE004 to come out. I decided against the Pilot Sport 4 because they seem a bit hit and miss, in that from the reviews I've read there is a ST or Silent tune version of the tyre that isn't as good as the other version, so the prices were either $279 or $309 or $335. I will try to update this over time :-)
    1 point
  11. Glad to hear the new plugs got it sorted. Not knowing the full history of your vehicle makes it more difficult to narrow it down. Try not to run it down to fumes because the intank fuel pump relies on having fuel over it to help keep it cool and thus prolong its lifespan. Some people opt to refill the tank when it gets down to half, two thirds, or quarter tank. I wouldn't make a habit of running it dry, otherwise you may find yourself caught short oneday and not being able to start it.
    1 point
  12. Hi Mike, yes a good price considering it is a dealership doing it, nothing worse after being so long unable to go anywhere than worrying about being stranded, so well done on the forward thinking mate KAA
    1 point
  13. Hi Ashley, I viewed The Car Nuts YouTube series on Hybrids prior to purchasing my new Kluger and found them informative... and yes no mention of fan failure but a quite bit on filter maintenance. Our local dealer could not be more helpful, providing us with a loan car until the long term rental vehicle was made available today. They placed the order for the replacement part as soon as the problem had been diagnosed but after checking availability informed us lead time could be several months as the part needs to come from Japan. It's a pity spares were not sent along with the initial shipment of new vehicles! Regards Jeff
    1 point
  14. Bigmike62, $688 isn't expensive especially by Toyota. I had mine done way back in 2015 by a local mechanic at a cost of $495.
    1 point
  15. Sorry to hear of the problem . Its bad no replacement in OZ. I am waiting for delivery of a Prado . Most likely 7 months from order but it will be powered by diesel cheers
    1 point
  16. I had this thread in mind when last weekend I gave my Aurion a complete all over treatment using P&S Beadmaker. All the glass and the paintwork got a spray of the P&S Beadmaker. Weather forecast for Brisbane was also showing rain expected today. It did rain overnight and I did take some photos this morning. They are very similar to the photos already posted. Only difference that I thought was that the water beads may not have been as large but that could very well be more to the different cameras being used as well as the skill of the photographer. I am still a learner. 😄 I am more looking forward to a rain shower while driving to see how well the water beads and flies off the windscreen. I have given the Rain-X a miss in favour of the P&S Beadmaker. I am very pleased with P&S Beadmaker being easy to apply after doing the preparation work. Most likely using more product than an experienced detailer. Just ordered a resupply of P&S Beadmaker. Waiting for the Turtle Wax Flex Wax to come down in price before giving it a go.
    1 point
  17. That's pretty much what I've been doing too Ash. Just have to remember that there is an O-ring in side that small drain bung that will perish eventually and may induce leakage, so at some point I will have to remove it. Probably needs bugger all tightening torque like the rest of the housing.
    1 point
  18. Fuel economy is very subjective and you can't really can't compare apples with oranges. Rob mentioned a few factors, but another factor worth considering is how much idle time you spend in traffic. You could be on a roll abd get all the green lights, which means you don't have to stop, wait, accelerate, which in turn keeps the economy scale within target, even potting around town. HIghway use is obviously the best measure, but roughly 80% of our driving is mostly done in crazy metro areas so the economy will fluctuate depending on conditions. Another point I'd like to add is you need to be pretty light footed to get the best out of it. Heavy foot work will be punished. We use a combination of E10 and 91 RON fuel and rarely the 95 RON, unless it's cheap enough. The car gets used daily so the E10 is of no concern to me. I can't say in all honesty, when my wife drives it around town the economo meter always reads around 12ish Lt/100. She doesn't know any better, so I just accept it as you can't teach them either. For me, I take up the challenge whenever I get a chance to drive it (which isn't often) to see how far I can pull that figure down and believe this, I was able to pull it down to 8.4 Lt/100 after around 30 minutes of driving. That stint was a combination of stop/start, but mostly 60 to 80 kay zones with favourable conditions. So yes, the potential is there, regardless of what fuel you use. Don't waste you're money on premium fuel unless the manufacturer recommends it. It's a rip off and you don't need it. The Aurion is optimised to use E10 so don't let the scare mongerers tell you its bad for the engine. If you plan to put the car in storage, then you'd best drain the fuel system dry, put a bit of premium in there with fuel stabiliser but never leave E10 stored to too long as it will absorb moisture and go off pretty quickly. Daily usage is just fine as it will be circulated very often.
    1 point
  19. You might want to check your suspension bushes then. You can have them checked at a suspension place if you're not sure yourself. If the bushes are worn they can affect the ride and make noises as you described.
    1 point
  20. Fuel economy is at its worst for short trips. Until the engine and coolant warms up, the transmission operates more in the lower gears. Fuel economy for the Aurion is at its best for cruising on the highway. A bit hard when you are under travel restrictions due to COVID-19. In recent times, I have given up worrying about the fuel economy and more concentrate upon just enjoying the drive. The lead foot also plays havoc with the fuel economy. I may not be the fastest away from the traffic lights but I do overtake them further down the road. Also best to keep as much fuel in the tank to cool the fuel pump to hopefully extend its operating life.
    1 point
  21. Today Sebastian had his first oil change in my care. some things of note. Sump plug was in really good condition which is nice. However. The drain bung in the bottom of the oil filter housing was well stuck in. Yeah this thing. I ended up using a rattle gun on it off the car. That revealed a nice pocket of sludge in the drain valve. the housing itself cleaned up nice with brake cleaner - but again some carbon crumbs and some varnishing. All that’s gone now. I did take a leaf out of Sludgies book and run through an oil flush prior to draining. Definitely got some extra muck loose compared to just dumping oil. Frah filter and a sump full of cheaply purchased Gulf Western synthetic. We will hopefully do some longer runs in the next couple of weeks and I’ll do another flush and change after that. Next official service is due in January-ish so he will go to Toyota for that. Overall still a happy camper. The sludge I could have lived without but I don’t know how many “book service” cars wouldn’t have some lingering around.
    1 point
  22. In the midst of a very long awaited deep spring cleaning session in my study I found a pile of Wheels magazines, some I will keep & others I will sell. I also found the attached which I thought someone on here would love to have. It details the cars whole lineup as well as the development & engineering undertaken locally. The mag is in any new condition, free to a good home, reply or pm if you're interested.
    1 point
  23. Castol Edge 5w-30 is a good choice for that model, regularly on sale (-25C to 40C temp).
    1 point
  24. Thank you. Mechanic said motor is fine and apart from a few minor things can’t see what’s causing it. He’s taking it to his auto transmission guy as he suspects that might be it. Will let you know outcome !
    1 point
  25. Well guys I've now owned my Camry for 18 mths, what do I think of it ? Best car I've owned and have had zero problems but that's what you expect when you buy a Toyota. It's very smooth and a pleasure to drive, it's not a DIY car but what car is these days. The best feature is the reversing camera IMO, no more trying to look out the rear window. We're told by both Scottie and the Car Care Nut Guy not to fill your Petrol tank to the top. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPiiqcDxDxY Well I finally worked it out...when I get to three quarters empty, I put in 35 lts which gives me just under a full tank.
    1 point
  26. Here's another kit I almost forgot I had. These are also the Aviation type spanners, with articulating ratchets on both ends. Comes in a fold up pouch for easy storage and transportation. Again, nice quality by Duratech.
    1 point
  27. Ok so seeing the last few posts mate I have this stabbing pain in my right hip, seems to centre on the pocket area when wearing pants LOL Ohh it's that hmmm they look nice I must have disease I think it is called Tony's Toys OCD syndrome LOL Damn they look great Tony Thanks Mate KAA
    1 point
  28. This is the Duratech equivalent Aviation "Extra Long" ratchet type ring spanners. One end is a ratchet and the other is a ring of the same size. I didn't realise how long they actually were until the package arrived. It has some serious weight in it I must say. I used a tape measure this time to illustrate the length 😁🤪
    1 point
  29. Awww Tony they are so bright and shiny, will be so sad to use them actually as being packed so well and looking so good. Still you remain the Guru of things detail and fun toys mate LOL Thanks for the Pic's had me thinking hmm I could use at least one of those and then hit my head and said NO ROBERT NO LOL KAA
    1 point
  30. I feel your pain mate. I'm the type who will do daily searches on all selling platforms and sometimes you come across that elusive part before someone else does. I can't imagine there'd be too much competition for what you're looking for, but just keep looking and you could also post a wanted addy in say, Gumtree etc. If gaskets cannot be found then I guess the next alternative would be to try and find a pair of good condition headlight assemblies. Have you thought about going to swap meets ? You could probably hook something up through a car club I guess. Ask around and see what you can find. The thrill of the chase is always a great thing, and when you finally land that unicorn piece, it is an endorphin rush !
    1 point
  31. Hi Ron Expenses break-down is as follows: Parts & Services Cost Cooling System Pressure Test $40.00 Thermostat-Radiator $32.30 Seal-Thermostat $4.75 Sensor Coolant Temp $29.35 Coolant-Red Concentrate $11.90 Hose, PC Ventilation $49.70 Head machining $99.00 VRS Gasket set $198.00 Head Bolts $44.00 Helicoil thread repair $154.00 Crankshaft Seal $24.80 Engine oil 5L $18.00 Engine oil flush 300ml $4.80 Oil filter $11.05 Coolant-Red Premix 5L $32.00 Power steering fluid $16.00 Spark Plugs-4 off $20.40 Micro-V Drive Belt $51.00 RH Engine Mount $28.05 Water Pump $47.99 Sub-Total $917.09 Tools Cost Fuel Line Disconnect Tool $19.87 E-Torx Socket Set $36.99 8x50mm Hi Tensile Bolts $4.54 Hex Impact Socket Set $29.99 M12 Spline Impact Socket $16.50 Oil Can Flex Spout $9.99 Steel, Flat bar $13.90 Inline Sparkplug Tester $10.40 Sub-Total $142.18 Consumables Cost Degreaser 12 Cans $12.00 Acetone 1 Litre $12.00 Gasket Sealant RTV Black $13.99 Throttle Body Cleaner $4.37 Nitrile Gloves (100) $26.40 Sub-Total $68.76 All up Grand Total: $1,128.03 The Steel, Flat Bar and Hi Tensile Bolts, in case you're wondering, was used to make a crankshaft pulley holding tool. Regards Paul
    1 point
  32. Come easing of these constant erratic lockdowns in Australia. When we're allowed to travel around the state, where do you all plan on going ?. And what car will you be taking ? I've hardly been able to drive my Toyota at the moment due to 2 small issues i'm getting rectified. Keep safe everyone !
    1 point
  33. It has been a pretty frustrating but somewhat rewarding experience having to desludgify ol' Sludgy lol.. "The trials and Tribulations of Ol' Sludgy" would be a befitting title Looking forward to oil pan cam and wherever else it may be able to probe. Post up some pics of your device Ash.
    1 point
  34. Oil filter: Mann-Hummel: HU 926/4X (or mahle equiv) Air: Mann-Hummel: C25 114 (or mahle equiv) Cabin: Mann-Hummel: CU 2835 (they seem to fit better than Ryco & Wesfil when it comes to german cars) AGM are simply beefier stop/start approved batteries which have higher cca, reserve current (rc), etc. I'd use Century/Yuasa or Varta, i've got a supercharge in my G6E at the moment. No issues what so ever. Battery Options: TechChg - Our brand (made by federal batteries): DIN65LH-TS (680cca) Varta - E44 (780cca) Supercharge: MF66 (720cca) Just to rub it in.... Oxy sensor for cyl 1 - 3: EGO-199 (bosch) Cyl 4 - 6: EGO-199 (bosch) PAT Premium is literally branded products in different boxes. Coolant fan switch: CFS-076 (black connector) CFS-035 (white connector) Alternator belt: 6PK1510 or 6PK1560 A/C: 5PK1120 Thermostat: TT405-174P Thermostat Housing Seal: TTG33 Waterpump: (GMB) WP9810 Very high quality pumps too. Front Pads: DB1131-Euro+ Front Rotors: DBA 984E or 984S (Slotted) Rear Pads: DB1132-Euro+ Rear Rotors: Pagid: 50266PRO (Left) Pagid: 50267PRO (Right) Wear Sensor Front: BWS1052 or Pagid P8081 Wear Sensor Rear: BWS1005 or Pagid P8013 Coils: IGC-053 (bosch) Plugs: NGK PKR7A, wouldn't use bosch plugs nowerdays haha !. Future reference.
    1 point
  35. I'm not in Greater Sydney so the 5km radius thing only ever applied if I was leaving my LGA. Same situation with my parents though, my mum lives home alone (my dad died back in 2018) and for the last ~12 months she's been undertaking ~150k worth of landscaping, I was going around weekly/fortnightly taking progress photos but haven't been able to get there since the last lockdown started (she lives in another LGA even though she's only ~30 minutes away)
    1 point
  36. Should note: ADR specifies the maximum error. The biggest change is now under any condition/test a vehicle as delivered by the manufacturer cannot have a true rod speed that is above the indicated speed. The are also some provisions around the visual accuracy of reading the instruments as well which is where the 4km/h typically can be explained off. From memory the 4km/h is arbitrary because it’s the largest whole number under 5, and the wording is something like “the operator must be able to determine the the reading within x% of the scale”. Which broadly means if you see the needle half way between the 90 and 100 marks you must be doing less than 95. But if parallax error due to seating position means you are seeing the needle position on scale differently (like your passengers do) then you would still have a margin of safety. This is why often a digital readout speedometer is “more accurate” than the gauge style because it doesn’t actually have to deliberately over read to get around visual interpretation of needle position. Obviously the percentage error is also about mechanical (and digital relationships between rotating items). Some cars have incredibly accurate speedometers that are near perfect to 40km/h then from that point adopt an exact 4km/h over read.
    1 point
  37. My thoughts exactly ! He's a wizard harry 🤣🤣
    1 point
  38. Counselling, what counselling?😁 Actually I find your acknowledged OCD quite inspiring which nicely offsets my tendencies to use quick workarounds. Better to do the job once and do it right then have to come back and do it all again. Also having the right specialised tools makes tasks so much easier and enjoyable instead of being a time wasting frustrating exercise. Good quality tools are worth the $$$.
    1 point
  39. It's an area that is largely neglected, so I always make an effort when filling up to have some paper towel ready after filling up and like wipe the outer edge of the filler neck and threads before putting the cap back on. That's just my OCD. 😜 Another good idea is to inspect the cap gasket for any cracks or wear. This can also lead to an escape of fuel vapor and cause unusual idling due to loss of fuel pressure. I think it may also trigger a check engine light in the worst case scenario.
    1 point
  40. I know Ash, my bad 🤪 I didn't realise it was that low, despite the fuel warning light being on and for the time I start it and run it, it is only for around 10 or less minutes anyway so I figured it couldn't hurt the fuel pump for that duration. It doesn't get started all that often for many obvious factors, but having it on a trickle charge means I don't have to always turn it over. I will redeem myself on the next available opportunity
    1 point
  41. A big killer of TBs is moving the butterfly valve too fast. It ruins the elec motor inside it. That link the OP posted mentions that. Only use TB cleaner!
    1 point
  42. He's spot on as usual at having to do the transmission fluid every 60K "miles" roughly 90Klms. I did mine at around 120K (its first flush) and my fluid was above average, so yes, follow the advice, it is good.
    1 point
  43. Next on the list is a set of Long Aviation Ring Spanners. Been wanting these for ages and kept forgetting to search, but the search is now over as these got delivered not that long ago and I couldn't be happier. Value for money and very decent quality too so I am pretty stoked. No need to spend big bucks on so called fancy "name brands". Believe me, these are just as good for a fraction of the price. They start from 10mm and go all the way up to 24mm. When I say these are long, I mean they are long !. The 22mm-24mm spanner is as long as my arm !! Now that's some good leverage right there !
    1 point
  44. WS is a Toyota specification for ATF which was released in 2002. In the past, mineral or semi-synthetic oils may very well have been used to meet the standard. Current aftermarket ATF meeting the WS specification are described as full synthetic. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Automatic_Transmission_Fluid#2002_-_WS_Fluid https://aisinaftermarket.com/uploads/fslqkiuy_ATF-0WS_TDS.pdf https://totachi.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/TDS_ATF-WS-1.pdf https://penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/ATF LV (Full Syn) .pdf I had previously viewed this YouTube video. Factual enough for me to remain using the aftermarket Penrite ATF LV.
    1 point
  45. Yep. Cherry is a good sign. When it teters on the side of brown, you know it's bad bad.
    1 point
  46. G'day Gents, I decided to carry out an oil service on our Aurion as I have been contemplating reducing my oil change intervals from 10K to between 5 and 7.5K. I decided to do it now having done exactly 5127 K since my last oil service post at 128,897 K. The day was last Friday and having the day off and being a nice morning I got to work. Initial dipstick check for oil level and colouration was first on the agenda. Pleasantly surprised, it was a hairline off the full mark and a nice golden glow. Good indication for how clean the engine is at 134K having done just over 5K on that oil. Oil stash woken from their slumber Next was to warm the engine, position the car and prepare necessary equipment and service parts. Genuine Toyota Filter and Sump Washer too. I gave it plenty of time for the oil to settle before dropping the oil plug. While waiting for the oil to drain, I took the opportunity to check the brake pads and adjust the brake fluid. I also needed to check the idler pulleys as one of them was starting to develop a light squeal on cold start up. Man it's a mongrel working on the side of the 2GR-FE. The clearance is ridiculous. That's another thread in itself I thought, so I'll just stick to the oil for now. I'll post up another thread regarding the idler pulleys shortly after this. I allowed the oil to drain for a good 2 hrs or so, jacking the car up to the jacks highest reach to extract as much from the inner vertical planes within the engine too. This netted around 100ml or so more not including the filter housing. Time to degrease and wash out the innards of the housing, install new filter and O'rings. Don't forget the sump washer too. Primed the new filter with oil prior to Reinstalling the filter housing (Remember, 22Nm torque !! ), and then time to filler her up with 6 lts of Nulon Fully Synthetic 5W-30 goodness. With the fill complete, I drained the collection tray into an empty 6 lt container and get a rough idea how much loss there had been during that interval. So whilst packing up and putting things away, I refit and torqued the wheels back on and dropped it off the jack. Roughly an hour had passed and the pan was completely drained. I then placed a new unopened 6 lt next to it and compared levels. There was a very slight loss as to be expected with oil filter saturation, residual oil in the engine which you can almost never retrieve and 5K of driving. I'd say that's a pretty darn good result all in all with approximately 100-150 ml down. I forgot to replace the AIR filter that day, so I did it this morning. Dug through my stash of service bits and grabbed the first one I had which was the Wesfil air cleaner. I have a whole bunch of these and AC Delco branded ones. One thing I don't recall is seeing the pre filter media attached to the pleated surface of the Wesfil. Hmmm, I thought. Something different. I'll have to monitor this and see if it conflicts with the normal passage of air, otherwise I may be inclined to just peel it off this and the others like it. This morning started out cloudy, wet, cold and miserable but is starting to fine up now. Yep it is very dirty as you can all see. It's due for another epic detail A quick oil level check too this morning. Car hasn't been started since Friday. One thing that annoys me is that it's hard to get an accurate read on the dipstick due to the bend in the tube. It wipes itself on the way up and you can just barely make out the oil level. Anyone else notice this ?? Anyway, she looks ok to me. And so Ladies and Gents, that concludes my oil service. Thanks for reading and I'll post up again on the next one. Kind Regards Tony
    1 point
  47. Had another listen and I think I can hear what you mean. It sounds like something is actuating over and over. I suspect it may have something to do with the A/C venting system. If you are able to figure out how to remove the cluster you may be able to peer inside and get closer to the culprit. I don't mind these kinds of challenges, just need to have the right time to get stuck into it. Are you able to get a look up the dash from the foot well ?? Have you had the car scanned with a decent OBDII scanner ? It may have thrown a code. Please let us know how you go.
    1 point
  48. My pick for brake pads is Bendix Ultimate. Bendix claim that they have a shorter braking distance [presumably compared to their other series]. https://www.bendix.com.au/content/bendix-brakes-ultimate-0
    1 point

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