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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/14/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    You got me curious about that moisture content meter. Thought I was going to fall down a rabbit hole, but thankfully it's more of a pothole, quite interesting to learn! https://media.supercheapauto.com.au/sca/images/articles/Repl_Brake_Fluid.pdf and http://www.mechanexpert.com/a-full-best-practise-guide-to-brake-fluid-testing/ Though a little part of me feels like I've robbed myself from buying another tool to add to the collection 😛
  2. 3 points
    Currently running Michelin Primacy 4...225/50R17 98V on my Presara..have done only close to 5,000 KLM on them but wearing very well and are excellent in wet weather also found them very quiet on highway conditions..we don't travel great distances but looking forward now to doing a country trip to escape the 4 walls we have been in for months now so I can recommend them, not the cheapest around but worth the extra peace of mind KAA
  3. 2 points
    That's pretty much my oil service schedule Big Mike. It usually takes around 6 months for my car to do roughly 8 -10 kays so it is in fact two oil services per year. Nulon 5w-30 has always been my oil of choice. Fully synthetic too of course, and will transition over to the Penrite because of the higher Zinc content. Like you said, Oil isn't that expensive, especially when you have several opportunities during the year to take advantage of the specials that pop up. Ashley and myself chime in when possible to alert you all when said specials are upon us and to take advantage. I've got enough oil for 4 services so I'll refrain from purchasing until another year or so and top up my stock then.
  4. 2 points
    Nice one Big Mike. There's nothing better than a refreshed brake system. Regarding the dust, I have the same problem at present with the bendix pads, which is why I have the Remsa pads ready to go when my Bendix are ready for replacement. The beauty of the Remsa pads is that they don't produce much dust at all and perform as good if not better than the Bendix.
  5. 2 points
    I have a 2017 Camry RZ, tyre size is 225/45 R18 and I run my tyres at 36-38 PSI The car came stock with Bridgestones Turanza ER300's (made in Poland) which had good grip but while legal after 1.5 years (circa 25,000km even with rotation) I could feel that the grip had deteriorated (I'm sure it had nothing to do with my driving style... cough cough....). Since I had previously used the Bridgestone RE 003's on my last car (05 Corolla sedan) they were one of the top contenders as was the Michelin PS4 I considered the Primacy 4 but a few reviewers had noted a strange feeling while driving (their words not mine), though it would be good to have a tyre that had top notch braking even when mostly worn (as is claimed by Michelin for the Primacy 4). The other major brands just seemed so hit and miss in regards to the reviews, whereas the PS4 and the RE003 had consistent 4-5 stars, and a far greater percentage of the total results were 3+ stars (and mostly in the 4-5 stars range). While I would have liked the PS4S, this isn't available in Australia though the Super sport is now available (re-branded PS4S??) if you are in the market :-) I ended up choosing the Bridgestone RE003 for the following reasons: - Previous good experience - Very good grip reported by the vast majority of users (dry and wet) and I could attest to this from my previous experience - Good steering feedback (from my point of view with the last set) - Consistent very good reviews by users - Cost, they were 4 for the price of 3 at the time, which was final deciding factor over the PS4 My own thoughts, are that if cost is not an issue the Michelin Pilot Super Sport should be high on a persons list, though this is based on the solid performance of the PS4 and PS4S that I have read about. From what I have read the Michelin's are pretty much the best in the wet (and I am happy to further my knowledge by being corrected) I don't have any regrets over my choice, and while I would like to gladly say I would buy another set when they are due, at the end of the day cost is a factor in my choice, and if Michelin's are on sale for example this would affect my decision.
  6. 2 points
    I drive my Aurion like a grandpa with a hat 95% of the time, but ocasionally need to give it the boot & given the tranny/dead pedal is a little slow to respond (inherent tuning) & with my runners on I may overdo the pedal bit which is where the traction issue may come into play. Very rarely an issue which may be rectified with new tyres as mine are virtually shot. I'm a big fan of Michelin, Dunlop & Yokohama for sportcars & I'm inclined to stick to those personally for the Aurion Sportivo also. BS hasn't proven itself with me yet, mostly disappointed me actually.
  7. 2 points
    This previous thread is relevant for your question. https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/54146-new-tyres-for-sportivo/?tab=comments#comment-571714
  8. 1 point
    Wow ! Expensive owning a Patrol. For the Aurion you would have to buy another 10 litre to make it work, but it gets expensive if it's not on special. Holden and Ford owners would have to buy bulk too.
  9. 1 point
    10 litre drums are ideal for 4WDs Engine Refill capacity for a Nissan Patrol is 10.5 litres. Only know this because my son mentioned that he uses 10 litres for an oil change. Engine Refill capacity for a Holden Commodore V6 is 7 litres and 6.8 litres for a similar Ford. 2x10 litres = 3 oil changes for the Aurion [plus occasional top ups, if required].
  10. 1 point
    I've been on Primacy LCs and found them to be excellent all round. They are especially quiet too. I am also considering going to the 4's next like you Big Mike.
  11. 1 point
    I will have to keep your results in mind as a benchmark. My 13.5 year old Aurion with 218K on the odometer needs a lot more servicing to get better fuel economy. Getting all ready for an interstate trip later this year assuming QLD-NSW border will be open at that time. Oh what interesting times we are now in.
  12. 1 point
    I have a 2011 Touring with 154,000 kms on it, I only put 98 premium petrol in it, and I keep the services up to it at the scheduled times. I use the cruise control on the highways and consistently get about 7.6L/100kms on long trips (about 8.2L/100kms on the freeway during the 40min trip the Central Coast to Hornsby) and driving around the Coast it's about 9.0L/100kms and I'm very soft on the pedals. Car still takes off about the same speed as the other cars. Very happy with my 8 year old Aurion.
  13. 1 point
    Yes Ashley, very important and something that can be done relatively quickly while you have it apart. I applied the bendix grease if you recall a while back when I did my fronts. That reminds me, I have to inspect my front pads again soon as they are getting close to the end. FYI https://www.bendix.com.au/bendix-news/bendix-ceramasil-brake-parts-lubricant-0
  14. 1 point
    I totally agree. If you have a sympathetic right foot and drive gently, especially taking off, great economy can be had. The V6 has a beautiful, silky smooth nature to it and you don't need to bury your foot to get it going. Just a gentle tap and it's off. Let the torque do the rest.
  15. 1 point
    Fuel economy has little to nothing to do with what type of fuel you use...That's a wallet problem ....The more bang you pay for the more bang you get for your buck....And modern day air conditioning uses next to nothing... Simple fact of life...It's application of your foot that counts.... A higher horsepower well tuned car will always achieve better economy if you don't use all the horses.... A small horsepower car will drink a lot because ya pushing it.... It's the old story....I sold my V8 and now have a 4 cylinder that uses more fuel to get from point A to B....
  16. 1 point
    I was looking at the tyres this morning after driving on wet roads to a car park. I noticed that the Front tyres [newer Dunlop] looked shinier than the rear tyres [older Pirelli] even though they were both tyre shined at the same time. Just thinking that the different tyre compounds can make a difference.
  17. 1 point
    Aurion has a fuel tank capacity of 70 litres. Theoretical Fuel economy of 7 litres/100 kms = 1000kms cruising range. In the real world, I have achieved 7.838 litres/100kms on a trip Brisbane to Wagga Wagga via Newell Highway. Different year, I had 11.921 litres/100kms for a return highway journey being 5065kms. Must have been more lead footed that trip or I got some incorrect fuel figures that included a mate's motorbike. Anyway check/clean the air filter, mass airflow sensor and the throttle body for good fuel economy.
  18. 1 point
    Maybe it is not the oil impacting acceleration. In my case, I finally discovered how to properly check and clean the mass airflow sensor MAFS. Acceleration has improved and the fuel economy has improved significantly. I currently have 5W-40 in the engine mainly because I did not have 5W-30 immediately to hand at the time.
  19. 1 point
    Hey BigMike, could the cruise control be contributing to your diminished fuel economy ? I never use it to be honest.
  20. 1 point
    Greetings Gents, Bought my 09' Presara with 4 new Michelin Primacy ST 3 tyres. Done about 8,000 klms on them so far. I find them to be very grippy in wet weather and great on the long highway drives I take regulary. Got them balanced and aligned recently, and the guy at Bob Jane says they are good for another 2 to 3 years yet. I will probably go to the Primacy 4's when these need replacing. Cheers Mike62
  21. 1 point
    Upsized Aurion stock rims to 18” black Toyota RZ wheels. Looks beautiful and drive feels amazing. However, when driving i hear little louder wheel spinning noise which wasn’t there with 16” wheels? Any suggestions? Is that because of wheels or bad tyres as thread on few is low? 18” wheel 225/45/r18 tyres
  22. 1 point
    Thanks Ashjj Thanks for the reply mate. great to hear of someone having the same issue and That I’m not barking up the wrong tree. I’m looking into a replacement cooler but also maybe down the track of a full egr delete as well. Will see how we go.
  23. 1 point
    6mm Allen key. Penrite Lube guide states 3.5litres. https://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/ Good tip is to accurately measure the amount of ATF drained out of the transmission. This assumes that there have been no leaks. If applicable, add an extra 20-50ml to your measurement. I use a number of clear plastic bottles e.g. 2 litre juice bottles etc as measurement guides.
  24. 1 point
    Thank you for sharing your experience. Definitely agree that replacing the alternator on the Aurion is time consuming and not so simple. I followed the process in this Youtube video except that I drained the radiator first before disconnecting the radiator hose. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAgFfeWbaMQ Even with the fan assembly removed, it is a juggling act for both the removal and installation of the alternator. I was also able to access the bolt on that bracket without having to disconnect an A/C line. Because it is not a simple bolt off and bolt on procedure, it is worth paying the extra for a quality alternator.
  25. 1 point
    Yeah, the first car I bought my daughter was an old Nissan Pulsar. It looked pretty good, but mechanically it was just so-so. I spent a bit of time working to it to keep in running until I fixed all the issues. It ended up lasting 4 years with her and then I gave it to a friends daughter to learn on. Then, when their car broke down it became their day car, lasted another 4 years before it finally died. This little echo is the opposite, the body is crap, no rust, just dings and crappy paint. But mechanically its fine, not perfect, but good enough that Id have no hesitation in driving it to Queensland and back any time. In the last two months Ive done 10000k freeway driving at 110, not even so much as a backfire. The battery issue isnt the cars fault, its mine, so all good. Ill probably give this one away to someone who needs it eventually. But it will look better when im done with it.
  26. 1 point
    Thanks for this ! Ill attach this information in the aurion FAQ thread, so hopefully in future when someone searches for it, it will be there. EDIT: ive actually found this post from 2010 😁
  27. 1 point
    There was a post on this Forum some years ago that the rear sway bar on the Sportivo was solid and on other models it was hollow. Internet searches was unable to confirm that statement. A local wrecker had the 40 series Sportivo, so $50 and a delightful 2 hours later in the damp after some morning showers. I had that Sportivo rear sway bar. My 2006 Aurion ATX rear sway bar weighed 1.62kg and the Sportivo one weighed 2.74kg. I think that confirms that the Sportivo rear sway bar is solid.
  28. 1 point
    can confirm the procedure worked, afs is now swivelling and does the little dance on startup as before
  29. 1 point
    The best thing about the Echo is that I fear nothing. I can pull anything apart without worry, if it breaks, Ill get another from the wreckers. If someone bangs their door into it, who cares other drivers fear me becuase they see a bomb, they just know I dont care (I do but they dont know that) So when I push in, they always let me, and If I stop someone from pushing in, they never try to bluff me, one look at the guard and they just know I dont care. I can test wiring up things and never be concerned. In my $50k 4x4 Im terrified to even touch it for fear of damaging something. and, of course, everything is expensive. a $10.00 part for the Echo is worth $700.00 for the 4x4. But , all said and done, I really enjoying this little buzz box. Its a great car, great milage and even after 20 years, everything works. Bet my 4x4 wont be able to say that.
  30. 1 point
    I found the ER300's that came stock on my RZ to have good grip, but wore out way too early. They were made in Poland.....
  31. 1 point
    I am very much into keeping my vehicle stock standard [appearance wise] to maintain the sleeper car looks. Looks like you are taking a different approach with wanting to differentiate your vehicle. With your vehicle colour, why not further consider gold colour rims. https://www.autocraze.com.au/store/speedy-cheetah-17x7-5-5x114-3-gold-machined-lip-wheel-tyre-package.html
  32. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum Jayson, I am sure many will be able to throw ideas at you..like anything it tends to be a personal choice as to what you do and how far you're prepared to go with any custom work, and mostly costs involved..My personal choice is to leave my Presara as stock as I can..all I went with was a awesome head unit, some de badging and a grill change and basically that is it..I am sure you will get ideas from our awesome people on here Keep Well KAA
  33. 1 point
    I have found that when I have 40 psi in the tyres on my Aurion, the sidewalls do not flex as much and this shows in the steering being more direct and responsive.
  34. 1 point
    They're actually a good all round tyre, haven't had many complaints so far, Noticeably better grip the road many Hankook, Kumho, etc. I would recommend them, previously worked for Mercedes-Benz, seen many cars come in with them on, pretty good in most applications. I'd definitely recommend them over Pirelli, which in my opinion are just garbage in every aspect. terrible wear, terrible grip and overall just a terrible tyre haha. but props to their marketing bull****. Personally i'm more either a Michelin Pilot Sport, Continental or Yokohama guy. but Michelin & Continental are my number one picks above any other tire if any of my mates asked my professional opinion. I'm not really a boy racer but i do prefer a tyre that has exceptional performance in terms of braking, safety, longevity (replace tyres every 8 years roughly), but most importantly grip and comfort levels. eco tyres designed for fuel economy are just toxic when it comes to what actually matters most, if people complain about fuel consumption... simple, don't own a car XD
  35. 1 point
    @TommyM What are the Contis like on your Avalon ? Soft sidewall or OK ? Presume grippy & quiet.
  36. 1 point
    Well like most cars i think if you floor it from stand still yes get the slight bunny hopping as the traction control kicks in..I never floor it from stand still..I have no need to do that as my days of being a boy racer are long gone now..if I still had my mach 1 mustang however well that's a different and old story..i do find if i apply decent amount of lead foot I get great traction and braking ability on these tyres even in wet conditions..so depending on your driving style from the stand still position I would suggest good quality touring tyres..its the old story you get what you pay for and how you take care of them KAA
  37. 1 point
    Hahahaha love the revised statement 😉 The GSV40's do have the ability to apply mild braking pressure to mitigate traction loss, they're a bit more up to spec compared to Ford & Holden just thinking "oh lets just cut power & retard timing massively to fix wheelspin" It's that bad your car feels like it's misfiring lol
  38. 1 point
    You don't have to, it just bunny hops & looses it completely until I let go & in the dry, pretty ordinary tuning tbh. Is everyone else experienced the same? I need my shoes off to get proper feel to make use of all that HP if I want it. It's a good thing I rarely give it the beans, maybe I will just get some Touring tyre rather than a top end performance tyre for the Aurion, perfect for the 86 though.
  39. 1 point
    Turn off traction control 🤣🤣🤣
  40. 1 point
    Primacy 4 is also on the radar, and of course the turanza ER300 which I'm inclined to ignore. The ones on my car have this weird wear pattern. Would like quiet, smooth with lots of wet grip & long lasting would be the icing - not asking for much 😏
  41. 1 point
    I did get mine a bit cheaper as an Australia Day sale item. This just means that you will have to use yours more often to get your moneys worth. lol You squeeze the top of the switch to undo and the bottom of the switch to tighten. Mine is set at 110nm which I believe is the torque setting for the Toyota Aurion wheel nuts. I still hand/finger tighten the wheel nuts then use the gun for the final tightening. I use the star pattern and go around twice. The set does come with 2 double ended sockets. Actual wheel nut is 13/16"or 20.6mm not 21mm which can still work with a 21mm socket. I did go and buy 13/16"standard and deep impact sockets which Repco had as a clearance item [bit of overkill] however I could have just used a spark plug socket instead. I am hoping to be giving the rattle gun another workout this weekend assuming suspension parts all arrive by Friday.
  42. 1 point
    Out of all the non ceramic protectants, the 303 is by far the best solution, even it is a semi permanent one. It will eventually wash off and need re coating which is fine again. The "waste of time" products would be the likes of turtle wax, Armor all etc. They put a greasy film over the faded plastic and does nothing but accentuate how faded the plastic is and as soon as it rains or the car gets washed, it's gone, and it looks as bad as it did before. The Aerospace 303 has a tendency to cling and penetrate, which is what you really need, but will require it to soak and then subsequent reapplications. This Cera trim is a solution which not only penetrates into the porous plastic, but bonds to the surfaces and creates a seal over the top so it can last up to 12 to 18 months so they say. It's received nothing less than a five star review so far. That's pretty impressive. Just waiting on an opportunity to test it out and will definitely post up my results when I can. https://thelastcoat.com/products/ceratrim-ceramic-powered-trim-restorer-8-oz
  43. 1 point
    OK, as with all things electric you have diagnosed your problem yourself. If all doors except the passenger open from the drivers door. And all doors open when opened from the passenger door. The problem is the passenger actuator. You will probably find either a rusty or clagged actuator in the passenger side. It wont move when opened from another door, but when it is forced from the passenger side it actuates the other doors. I had that same problem with another car a few years ago, it was water getting into the little electric motor which rusted it up and stopped it from working. But when forced, it set the other doors off. you can either replace or clean out the damaged one and all should be good.
  44. 1 point
    Wow !! Looks like Gold Coast Toyota have a good moral compass compared to most. That is great news. I'm very happy for you. Something like that would really bother me. A huge shout out to Gold Coast Toyota. I holiday'd there in January and love the place. The people there are so friendly unlike the animals here in Sydney.
  45. 1 point
    It's an old thread, but for anyone interested. Denso do make aftermarket coils but for Toyota they are OEM, so quality is good. As for using ZRE152 in place of the ZZE122, that is not possible as they are very different coils (see attached images), the one on the left is ZZE122, the right is ZRE152.
  46. 1 point
    Hi mate, you still trying to sort this issue out, you were on here 2 years ago back in 2017 regarding same issue
  47. 1 point
    I suspect Taiwan may carry more Cache than China. No offence to our Chinese brothers.
  48. 1 point
    I sent my car in to the Toyota dealer this morning to ask them to reset the security code for my Presara. Here's what they told me - the security code is normally the last 3 digit of your VIN no. If that doesn't work , then try "320" . That is the Toyota generic code from the factory. Try these 2 pin before you attempt anything else. If not once you exhausted all 9 tries, you will have to get them to reset the whole thing. Thanks bros for your help. Cheers!

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