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  1. 2 points
    Another good aspect of having an Aurion over a Camry is how fuel efficient the V6 can be. 4 Cyl cars will strain up hills and chew the fuel, whereas the V6 pulls effortlessly. I love the feel of the V6 all day over a 4 cyl. My wife drives ours mainly and she gets between 11 and 12 around town and she doesn't have the same right foot finesse as I do. When I drive it around town I can get into the 9's and on the freeway I've had it between the 6's and 7's, so yeah I can't see why you can't get 700 klm to a tank if driven sensibly and on highway. Don't forget also to keep tyres inflated to correct pressures to reduce rolling resistance. Every little bit helps lol.. Happy motoring everybody !!
  2. 2 points
    Something that I do is to leave the windows down a little bit. I am hoping that this will help to dissipate some of the heat build up in the cabin.
  3. 2 points
    Hey TOCA, Towards the middle and late last year, The Bathurst Motor Racing Museum had a showcase of the late great Peter Williamson's Toyota's with his contribution to 7 Sports RaceCam technology which was developed in the 70's, introduced at the 1979 Bathurst 1000 and lead the way for the future of in car camera's that we now have in various forms of Motorsport. I visited the museum for the first time in October last year not long after the exhibit had been introduced to the museum. I managed to get some quick photo's of the showcase as I follow historic motor racing quite closely these days, especially the periods between the 70's, 80's and 90's. It was great to see some of the cars he drove throughout his long career with Toyota.
  4. 1 point
    Watching Brian May of Queen on you tube, delivering his Covid - 19 message. What a great man ! Listening to while writing this..
  5. 1 point
    Very nice Big Mike ! 👍 Glad you enjoyed the trip and made it back safely. If it were a four cylinder, I seriously doubt it would even come close to those figures. I was always confident it would be light on fuel. Toyota built a magnificent engine in the 2GRFE. I love my Aurion !! Let it be our little secret lol...
  6. 1 point
    Glad all went well Mike, and that you managed to get home safe and sound, even though we are all in isolation now my wife and I try to duck out for a drive just to feel an escape from 4 walls and still enjoy our Presara enjoying some nice tunes as we silently cruise the roads. Stay Safe Mate.. KAA
  7. 1 point
    Cheers guys mines trd 0337 had xr8s an ve ss b4 hand an this car is way in a class above those so nice to drive
  8. 1 point
    Oh Deyrick, Aurions aren't the right car for donuts mate. Sorry, but karma has bitten here. Who knows what kind of damage you've done to it. You could have also damaged the CVs too. If you can get a transmission for 1k (that is if it is in fact broken), I'd jump on it cos they are usually around the 3-4k mark. Ashley you can correct me if I'm wrong. Get yourself a proper, rear wheel drive and go to town, preferably in a controlled environment such as the drag strip or something. We don't advocate dangerous driving here.. Good luck with it and let us know how you go. Cheers Tony
  9. 1 point
    So I've been using this removal tool by Kincrome since purchasing my Aurion and slowly over time it's been getting harder and harder to remove the filter housing with this almost impossible tool. My recent oil change was the last straw. After draining the oil, I then proceeded to remove the housing the usual way, locate the tool on the housing, attach socket to breaker bar and attempt to loosen. Only this time the hex part on the tool began to round off due to the torque required to loosen this damn housing off. The socket kept slipping and I use quality sockets ! I tried several time to no avail and this left me 1 of 2 choices. Do I put the old oil back in and wait to get another tool or just fill it with fresh oil and do another change later. I chose the latter. Much to my frustration I added the 6 lt of 5w-30 Fully synthetic, gritting my teeth knowing the old filter is still in. ARRGHH !! I contacted kincrome to voice my disappointment in what was supposed to be a premium tool. It wasn't cheap either. They have since responded and that it will be covered under their lifetime warranty, so I'll take it down to an authorised seller (no receipt required) and they will assess and process the warranty claim. The bad part of this tool is that it only has a provision for a hex socket as it has no 3/8" or even a 1/2" socket cut into the centre as a plan B. The cheaper knock offs on ebay even have this. So it's a poorly conceived idea. Let this be a lesson. You can sometimes never get what you pay for, even if it's made by a reputable company. The expensive stuff can sometimes be worse than the cheaper options. I have since ordered 2 exact type of tool off ebay to be able to do a comparison and see for myself. I'll let you know the outcome. By the way, out of interest. Is there a tightening torque spec for the housing. I don't think I over tightened it either as it has an O-ring. I tighten it up until it stops then nip it up a little. That's it.
  10. 1 point
    Interesting that I just bought a twist socket set on eBay today after watching some YouTube videos about removing lugnuts. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/11Pcs-Damaged-Nut-Lock-Remover-Twist-Socket-Set-Screw-Extractor-Tool-16-27mm/163841096946 Let you re-think that approach. Even just tightening the housing up until it stops will be more than sufficient then you have the metal expansion when the engine block and oil warm up to operating temperature.
  11. 1 point
    I have looked at this type of tool a few times but stayed with using a 3/8" drive directly to the bottom of the housing. When refitting the housing, I lubricate the o-ring and then tighten by hand. Sometimes it takes a few attempts so threads match and it spins up quite freely. I then tighten it by hand all the way then back it off a 1/4 turn. Afterwards wipe down the housing in case you want to check there is no oil leakage later.
  12. 1 point
    I think the key message here would be to change the oil regularly and use a high quality synthetic oil. 3000 kay service interval is a bit much (no offence Ash, just saying), I'm between 8 and 10 kay on mine having used a high quality synthetic oil since I've had it starting from 40,000 kays and definitely no sludge to date. It runs so sweetly.
  13. 1 point
    You put a funnel into the plastic tubing. https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=10mm clear plastic hose Have a good read of this thread. https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/56280-transmission-u660e/?tab=comments#comment-570320 Following are my attachments about servicing the Toyota 6 speed auto transmission fitted to the Aurion. How to to service the Toyota 6 speed Transmission.doc U660E AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID ADJUSTMENT.doc
  14. 1 point
    Glad your trip went well there..yes good economy hope you enjoyed the cruise KAA
  15. 1 point
    The fuel light will come on well before you'd run your tank dry, so can't really tell how many ks you'd get on a full tank. But if your fuel consumption stays around 7.3-7.5l/100km, as I'd expect, you should be all good. My best ever figure on a long drive was 6.9l/100k, otherwise I usually sit in the low-mid 7s.
  16. 1 point
    38psi around Melbourne on a 40 degrees hot day means squealing at every turn, unbearable 😀 For trips, though, I go with 36-38psi depending on the weather, if it's a rather cool day I'm comfortable with pumping in 38. Have a safe trip Mike, I'm sure you'll enjoy the car on open road, very little road noise AND VERY responsive when overtaking is needed.
  17. 1 point
    Hi Mike, like others have said you can add a little more when filling..I also don't tend to over fill unless doing a very long open road trip..then that little extra tends to burn off fast..A good idea to top up when possible..I also keep around 36-38 psi in the tyres when on the open road journeys and lower for around town when home, I hope it is a smooth and pleasant trip for you..let us know how it all goes for you..but most important of all stay safe KAA
  18. 1 point
    When overfilling the tank, I get about another 2 litres in. I mainly do this when travelling interstate so that 2 litres and more burns off fairly quickly thus reducing the possibility of any effects upon the charcoal canister in the evaporation fuel control system. Best not to be in a situation where 2 litres is the difference between driving or walking to the next petrol station. Keep plenty of fuel in the tank to help cool the petrol pump.
  19. 1 point
    Not a fan of overfilling the petrol tank, not really worth it. https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/overfilling-gas-tank-topping-off-dangers/
  20. 1 point
    Hi Mike, I agree with Ashley, i did a long driving holiday from NSW Central Coast to Melbourne and surrounding areas and got over 10kms per litre at average highway speed, and around town still get 11-11.5 kms..i would agree to refuel just for peace of mind as i don't like my tank under 1/4 full at anytime..just a habit i have as the old (you never know thing) and if anything urgent does arise at least i know i can just jump in and go. I hope you enjoy your trip..stay safe..just cruise and enjoy the adventure KAA
  21. 1 point
    Hi Mike yes mine is September 09, so yes I guess we are the lucky ones who are not affected..however I always keep and eye on the dash when cleaning the car and just do all I can to keep it protected..plus I do try to keep it garaged and when out use a windscreen shield, as the car is still perfect that is how i want to keep it..best car I have ever owned still ticks over like a swiss watch and super efficient on fuel..hope yours continues to be awesome KAA
  22. 1 point
    Hey all. New here, recently purchased a trd Aurion. No243 Looking to try and get an updated topic for the TRD Aurion and performance modifications. Also links to providers for parts and modification services. Already made the modification to the collector from front and rear exhaust banks. Cost me 300$ pretty significant improvement to mid range torque. Low down was already useless due to wheel spin. Currently looking for options to intercool the supercharger. Any input would be appreciated.
  23. 1 point
    My 2007 has 253000 km. It started out as a rental car... so probably had a hard early life. I have no issues at all. I replace oil at 5-6000 km intervals depending on the rest of my life... I am a bit hesitant to believe codes, the sensors that report them seem to be the problem as much as the problem they indicate.
  24. 1 point
    Hi Tony C, after reading your reply, I did some checking on line and found out the last Aurion came off the production line on 17/8/17 at the Altona plant, Melbourne. Also, the compliance sticker shows date of June 2017.
  25. 1 point
    Sorry to be slightly off topic, I had my dashboard replaced in July 17 (as that was almost 10 years from manufacture), sadly as I was giving the inside of the car a clean I discovered that the dashboard is starting to melt again! I’m going to be contacting Toyota about the issue, but I suspect that I will be out of luck on getting it replaced after it had been already replaced. Has anyone else experienced this? Cheers.
  26. 1 point
    Another good video on changing ATF https://www.project200.com.au/atf-flush/ I also got to know that Toyota ATF is made by Idemitsu, Japan. The only thing which I'm not very clear, is that if it is synthetic or mineral ATF.
  27. 1 point
    I thought you all might like to know the final conclusion of my saga. It was in fact the immobilizer unit. It cost me a pretty penny to get a replacement but the RAV4 starts and runs fine now. The engine noise was just that all the stop/stalls had drained the oil out of the top end of the engine. Once it ran for a bit, warmed up, and got the oil circulating again, the noise completely went away. Thanks again for all the advice.
  28. 1 point
    The following rules apply to the Buy and Sell section: All private vehicle sales must be made in the Toyota's For Sale section. No commercial selling is allowed. Traders must read the terms and conditions located here: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/terms-conditions/ or alternatively contact management who will point you in the right direction. Sale posts may only be made in the Buy and Sell forums. The Sale Template below must be used for all sale threads including vehicles. You may only 'bump up' your item once every 48 hours. Bumping includes any posts made in your for sale thread that are not adding additional information related to the item, or answering questions from other users. At the discretion of the management, posts may be removed at any time without notice; and if deemed necessary the member may have their access restricted. The eBay section is not to be used for private or trader sales, it is for eBay finds only. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate in contacting a member of the management team. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sale Template Please remove the italicised portions and input the relevant information. * In the title of the thread you MUST include the state the item is located, for example: [NSW] 1990 Toyota Corolla SX Hatch Item: Location: Website: <If selling on eBay / Carsales> Item Condition: <New/Used/Refurbished> Reason for Selling: Price and Payment conditions: Any additional information: Shipping: <Willing/Not willing to ship or Postage at buyers expense> Pictures: Contact Details: -------------------------------------------------------------------------
  29. 1 point
    The 2liters of Penrite LV is operating normally after about 1000km. No change in shift quality etc.
  30. 1 point
    To save on the hassle, you can just choose to stick with what Toyota uses when you get your car serviced. If you are picky (like me), you can bring your own oil in. My reply in the thread 'New member here ~~question for Aurion service' In my opinion, the Australian winter is just not cold enough to justify using an oil grade lower than 10W30. If you really wanted extra assurance in winter, you could go for 5W30, but there really isn't a need. 10W30 is good all the way down to a temperature of -20 degrees Celsius, and the 5W30 is good al the way down to -30 degrees. To be on the safe side, you take (add) 10 degrees to this. So if you think your car will experience temperatures lower than -10 degrees Celsius, then go for 5W30, otherwise you will be fine with the first. As for the oil I use, it all comes down to personal preference; everyone has different opinions. I use Fuchs Titan Super GTO 10W30. It is a fully synthetic oil and it only costs $39.99 for a 5L bottle. I change my oil at 7,500km intervals, so the price point is a good one. Have not had any issues with the oil at all. Another thread of interest: Best engine oil?




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