Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 06/18/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    After many headaches and stomping my feet and pocket burning I will preach to only buy Very well known brand shocks and genuine mounts. Turned out to be two issues on the struts. The first was the seat at the bottom of the thread was machined too much (too much of a bezel). The Second was the threaded shaft was too thin as well. And even the warranty replacements we exactly the same but i have since got my money back. All tho i have had issues with the product I will say their customer service is impeccable. There was also a third issue and that was the poorly designed aftermarket mounts the hole was too large. I wanted Genuine mounts but Toyota NZ had changed to a new part number but had not bought any yet and the first guy i spoke to didn't check for obsolete part numbers. Turned out they had 7 in stock under the old part number. So after 12 removal and installs and issues and with other suppliers supplying miss matched parts i am glad to finally have it all sorted. and hope this is of help to anyone else. Knowledge is priceless.
  2. 1 point
    I have the regular SL with 4 cylinders. At one stage I was considering a hybrid but I only average 16,000 kilometers per year. Admittedly that will likely go up slightly, now that I have a much nicer car, but I still couldn’t justify buying a hybrid with the low kilometers I do per year.
  3. 1 point
    Agreed, the ones I got on my 2008 are rubbish, made in North Korea and bought from Repco. On the bright side I only have to push the bonnet up about twice a month and only for checking the fluids :)
  4. 1 point
    efi diesels from 2000, afair. please DON'T turbo anything but a 2.4Liter, the iron heads will not take the heat. around 250,000km it's normal to have head problems often caused by poor matenance/hard drving/cooling fail. later ones might have airbags. They can survive beyond 500,000km iff oil changes frequent enough and long cruising runs. Not powerful, but utterly reliable and owner serviceable. I find the old 2.2Liter motor adequate, but that's me. The 2.2, 2.4, 2.8, & 3.0 liter motors interchange freely, apart from electrical connectors and exhaust header flanges. stronger gearboxes on bigger motor(s?), common bellhousing pattern.
  5. 1 point
    The before and after shots. It's on SportsRyder springs.
  6. 1 point
    Hi there, I had the RZN149 engine on a 1999 model. 2.7ltr. Quite durable no issues at all. As soon as put gas hard to start b'cause injectors getting blocked so running in petrol quite costly drink like a horse being an older engine. Anyway I ended up replacing the injectors and ran 100%. Cost me $40 each replaced myself. Never burning any oil loads of staff carried heavy steal roof tops on roof carrier. Traded in and got a diesel Pajero 09 model. Good luck Noel
  7. 1 point
    Try this dude = not specifically 2WD but mostly still applicable. They are not "unbreakable" but they are close.... & certainly as far as parts & maintenance goes they are pretty a simple machine with good life expectancy as long as you maintain them. Just search by the specific model you like & you will find tons of data Rgds G.
  8. 1 point
    Here you go ...... Description of defect: Metal debris may have been generated from factory machining operations as part of the manufacturing of the engine crankshaft which may not have been completely removed from the crankshaft’s oil passages during the cleaning process. In addition, the machining processes of the crankpins caused an uneven surface roughness. As a result, the metal debris and uneven surface roughness can restrict oil flow to the bearings, thereby increasing bearing temperatures causing premature bearing wear. A worn connecting rod bearing will produce a cyclic knocking noise from the engine and may also result in the illumination of the engine warning lamp and/or oilpressure lamp in the instrument panel. If the warnings are ignored and the vehicle is continued to be driven, the bearing may fail and the vehicle could stall while in motion. Description of safety risk: An engine stall at higher speeds can increase the risk of a crash Identification of any warning that can occur: Illumination of the engine warning lamp and / or oil pressure warning lamp and / or knocking noise from engine.
  9. 1 point
    Interested to hear from other members any tricks or tips for removing spark plugs. One useful tip from a YouTube video was to use a length of rubber tubing to grip the spark plug which makes it easier to remove from a deep recess in the cylinder head. My main issue was trying to remove a long life iridium plug which has probably been fitted for about 5 years. I was only able to turn the plug about a 1/4 turn before it became stuck or very hard to turn. I used similar to WD-40 spray as a penetrating lubricant. After waiting a minute or so, I then tightened and loosened the spark plug but it was still hard to turn. Obviously not wanting to strip the thread in the alloy cylinder head, I then warmed the engine for a few minutes and checked YouTube for some hints. After turning off the engine, I gave the spark plug another good spray and waited a short time. Spark plug then turned a lot easier and was able to be removed.