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  1. 1 point
    Oh, and I'm now rolling on 15" TOM's AE111 wheels, came up at a bargain price and I couldn't resist a piece of JDM dealer-option gold.
  2. 1 point
    So as most of you probably know, about 12 months ago I finally pulled my finger out and get started on an engine conversion that I've been umming and ahhing about for the last ~10 years. Over the course of that time my mind would sway every few months, from a supercharged 20V to a high-comp smallport 7AGE, to a redtop BEAMS 3SGE, and then off to more exotic pastures like a 1MZFE or 2GRFE. Eventually though I decided that most of the standard conversions out there (A- or S-based) are getting long in the tooth design-wise, and I should probably look at something more modern (but not too modern that would make the electronics a nightmare) - enter the 2ZZGE. Good power straight out of the box, aftermarket support, locally delivered so parts aren't hard to find, plus the added fun/awesomeness of Lift and a 6-speed manual. So with my annual bonus from work fresh in my pocket, I started trawling Gumtree/Carsales/Facebook for cheap ZZT231 Celicas to rip the drivetrain out of (my main reason going with the Celica rather than the Sportivo is the better final drive ratio for cruising, plus Celicas tended to be cheaper and more plentiful) Initially started to get slightly depressed when I realised I'd still have to burn half my budget buying a rego'd runner only to scrap 90% of it, until one day a wrecked but "complete" low-k 2000 SX fell in my lap for the ridiculously cheap price of $700 (the gearbox and engine combo alone can go for $2k). Cue a mad rush to clear space in my garage (because the wife wouldn't want a shell sitting in the driveway and I needed cover to rip stuff out) as well as organise a trailer/tow-car - borrowed my mate's diesel Ranger and found a local guy who rented out car trailers for $50 a day. Just to make things more fun, picked up the trailer the afternoon before but none of the lights worked. Checked with my BiL's Jeep and everything worked fine (couldn't take the Jeep though as the brakes needed to be replaced), so figured it would have to be in the wiring on the Ranger....turns out whomever did the wiring harness for the trailer plug used Scotchloks instead of braincells, and had basically disintegrated. A morning-of patch job by @theguitarhero4 saved the day, however no trailer brakes (ute didn't have them fitted at all) left me a bit nervous negotiating the steep hills of the F3 on the way home with 2 tonnes of car trailer behind (turned out to be completely unwarranted though, the Ranger towed like an absolute champ). What will hopefully await me whenever I open the bonnet in the future Back home and tucked away First purchase was an MWR order to get the ball rolling - JDM ECU w/ no immobiliser, short-shifter (the Celica 6-speed housing bolts directly in to the Corolla), new dipstick (ring had broken off), solid shifter bushes, and the obligatory lift bolts. The beginning of the strip - battery, ECU and air intake removed. Over the next few months I would slowly chip away at the engine bay, focusing on making room and getting rid of anything that I didn't need and would just get in the way - radiator, air-con condenser, overflow bottle, by the end of it I had basically stripped the entire front of the car (one of the good things about the Celica is that you can unbolt practically _everything_ from the front end). Then moved my attention to the gearbox and the driveshafts Turns out that you really do need to un-stake the axle nuts before you whale on them with a 300Nm rattlegun.....ended up with 2 stripped axles (wasn't planning on re-using them anyway) and 1 nut in particular that was stuck on because it had stripped but there was still thread either side of it on the axle (part-drilled it out and then pried off with the biggest bar I had). Gearbox oil was green too, which was a bit concerning as I hope it isn't the dreaded Redline Shockproof (which would indicate that the synchros could be on the way out, despite being only 130k). Equal-length driveshafts will be a bonus though. Then made a start on the plethora of pipes and hoses in the engine bay - heater hoses, power steering lines, fuel line (got to love factory-fitted quick-connects) vacuum lines, air-con (at which point I "accidentally" released the entire load of R134a in to the atmosphere as I assumed it had already leaked out from the accident....turns out noooooooooooope), and fitted the engine lifting hooks (figured it best to lift the engine the way Toyota intended, rather than via seat-belts/random bolts etc) - the rear one was a real prick as there is basically no room between the back of the head and the cowl At this point I realised that the only thing holding the engine in to the car were the 4 engine mounts...........so I thought "bugger it, this thing is coming out today". Of course I chose to attempt this with the car parked in just about the worst position possible, had literally millimetres of clearance between the engine, gearbox, chassis and roller-door. Success! Note for future conversions - load leveller is worth its weight in gold. And I only tested the tensile strength of a single ground wire strap.....guess who won. Next step was splitting the engine and gearbox so I could measure the bolt lengths required and get the block up on the engine stand (stupid fine-threads...). Block and gearbox were slightly harder to separate than I expected until I realised the wiring harness was still attached to both.....oops. 20190112_190806 by Ian Rigby, on Flickr So that's how things stand at the moment. At this stage I'm considering starting the 7A removal around Easter (depending on when my bonus comes in and when rego is due on the Corolla, so I can have it off the road for the maximum amount of time possible without rego cancelling). List Timing-end engine mount from a Euro-spec 4ZZ ZZE111 (the E11x has essentially the same chassis as the E10x) - the 3 other mounts should essentially bolt straight on (benefit of the C-series transmission) MWR adaptor mount (used to fit the 2ZZ in to the 1ZZ-powered MR2/S) Fuel pressure regulator (so I can keep the returnless fuel rail) Custom exhaust headers as the Celica ones will hit the firewall/steering rack New clutch and flywheel (Fidanza probably, not sure on the clutch yet) New intake (might need to relocate battery too) New CVs (mix-n-match from a couple of different cars to get the splines and lengths right) Obvious ****s-n-bits for power steering, brake booster, clutch lines, air-con etc etc Oh, and something about wires....meh, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it
  3. 1 point
    Try sliding the drivers seat back on its adjusters then checking on floor just in front of seat (under edge of carpet). Otherwise look around engine bay or door jams. They are usual places. Mine is older model.
  4. 1 point
    And making sure it isn't too close to a bend. Basically Toyota MAFs work best in straight smooth flow of the same diameter as the stock piping.
  5. 1 point
    You may be interested in the latest 3 day special from SuperCheap Auto; Shell Helix HX8 Engine Oil - 5W-30 5 Litre https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/shell-shell-helix-hx8-engine-oil---5w-30-5-litre/373035.html?j=3969286&sfmc_sub=25368615&sub=205970513_SCA01_CRP&l=333_HTML&u=74336249&mid=6010680&jb=411&utm_source=email&utm_medium=email-subscriber&utm_campaign=C_SCA01_2019_WK28_2DD
  6. 1 point
    Essentially, I ignore them. I do take a deep breath and stay cool, calm and collected. I drive safe and smart i.e. defensively with about twice the braking distance so it is a relaxing non.stressful drive. Most definitely, I am NOT going to brake-check them. Eventually, the tailgater is going to overtake you and more than likely in less than desirable circumstances. Before my time, the girlfriend was driving and being tailgated. I understand that the roads were wet and she was driving below the speed limit for the conditions. The tailgater overtook her vehicle in a blaze of speed and disappeared into the curves ahead. Probably 5-10 minutes later, she came across their vehicle off the road and in a ditch with the occupants standing beside it . As she went passed them, she would the window down and said to them "Happy Motoring".
  7. 1 point
    "The pipe was 3 inches in diameter". That's the issue. Although you can run a 3" intake on the 2ZZ, to run on the stock ECU and/or piggy back systems it needs to have a reducer at the MAF of 2.75" otherwise you get issues to what you were experiencing. I run a 3" intake but it has a 2.75" reducer at the MAF so there are no issues. To run a full 3", as Ben said you need to get an aftermarket ECU.
  8. 1 point
    I have size 14 feet, i have no peoblems with this
  9. 1 point
    Certainly toned down from the over the top F1 concept. As for awesome, it is all in the eye of the beholder. Personally, I want to see more pictures of its official launch at the 2019 Detroit motor show. Until then, the following looks really nice to my eye. https://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars/future-cars/a12635049/2019-toyota-supra-what-we-know/ On paper, it looks like it is going to have a very decent engine and auto transmission. https://www.bmwblog.com/2019/01/01/top-10-best-engines-of-2019-by-wards-auto-b58-3-0-liter-inline-six/?utm_source=quora&utm_medium=referral
  10. 1 point
    I thought that I would share the following YouTube video because I agree with his practice of changing the oil filter mid-way through an extended service interval. I particularly noted his recommendation of reducing the service interval and a higher oil viscosity with the increased mileage. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lUA1YgoF1U
  11. 1 point
    Wishing all in forum a Wonderful 2019, May it be a great year for all.....especially if 2018 has been a struggle for you From Myself (Robert) and my Wife (Jan) on the Central Coast NSW Stay Safe,Stay Smart and Aware,and ENJOY! KAA
  12. 1 point
    Oooooooooft this is some joocy content, love reading!
  13. 1 point
    Taking this opportunity to wish all here a very Safe and Happy Christmas, if your travelling be smart and take breaks along the way. Make allowances for IDIOTS..far too many times they are out there this time of the year..so play smart and safe From myself and my wife Merry Christmas 2018 KAA
  14. 1 point
    Suggest you wait for your regular mechanic or go to an automatic transmission shop.
  15. 1 point
    Hi all, Have seen on other sites the absence of a dash light control and finding the dash light too bright at night....however there is a solution as I found out by getting an English version of JDM manual. First turn on ignition Then turn on sidelights Make sure display shows ODO Push and hold selection button Display will dim from now when headlights are on. Simple fix, and may help others!
  16. 1 point
    Hi guys, i seem to get several pm's a week regarding force feeding a sportivo and usually i respond through pm's but figured i would do a write up that could benefit the wider community. Now before i dig into this i want to highlight a couple of things: 1) all the prices, parts lists, recommendations etc are all based on my personal experience and are really up to the individual and so the prices could change which changes the outcome etc etc also ive taken a stab at conversion rates so my totals might not totally be right but ull get the ball park figures 2) Im not using this post as a self promotion, show off post because ive copped that crap before as well as just to clarify because i have had these acusations before ..... i am not parent spoon fed ..... or rich ... etc etc .... i collected parts for 3-4 years and took 1-2 years to do the whole build .... i lived with my parents and worked 2 jobs so dispensible income was the call of funding all this. 3) this is not to turn people off or anything like that but just to give ppl info so they can go in eyes wide open before they start something thats a bit over their heads. 4) all pricing i have pulled off the monkey wrench racing website and other simple google searchs so anyone can go and validate it themselves .... i have not taken into account duty, gst, shipping etc so dont forget to add this as it could account for and extra 25% of the total Ok in most of the pm's i get i usually get the following criteria as a requirement so i will base this thread on that recommendation: 1) as much power as possible 2) be able to surprise v8's, evo's, rexy's etc on the track / drags 3) be streetable 4) be reliable now based on this lets get started with some straight forward parts to meet this need injectors $350 fuel rail $400 fuel pressure reg $200 fuel pump $160 LSD $1,600 clutch $450 flywheel $500 oil pump gear upgrade $350 arp head studs $230 arp header studs $100 arp main studs $120 arp flywheel bolts $50 rod bearing set $130 rods $850 low comp pistons & rings $750 sleeves $400 IM gasket $75 engine gasket kit $275 valve springs & retainers $400 valves $350 power FC $1,500 oil catch can $250 BOV $250 boost controller $400 turbo $1,500 TOTAL $11640 Now even if my exchange rate is not right or u could source some of this stuff cheaper by being picky/haggling etc you will notice that you have spent atleast $10K just on parts .... u havent even picked up a tool or go the kit under way. Other aspects that still need to be covered is all the labour to get all the above stuff installed, all the fabrication on the intake side i.e. front mount intercooler + piping + filter etc etc and all the fabrication on the exhaust side i.e. manifold + dump pipe + high flow cat + the rest of the exhaust. Would also need to think about all the machine shop work that would need to be performed e.g. port and polishing the head, balancing the engine etc + dyno time and tuning ..... All this depending on whether you know ppl in the industry could seriously set you back in excess of $15K - $20K as well. Added to this are whether you also want to provide any supporting mods e.g. bigger brakes, coilovers, gauges, wheels, tyres etc etc all these are to your fancy but i would highly recommend them otherwise your car will have all this power and issues getting a2b. Again depending on choices you could easily push $5k-$10k here As i will tell you with a conversion like this then there are the head f#$#ks ...... trust me there will be times or rework, re-trying, multiple attempts etc which would have their associated $ figure also attached. so a nice little side lump sum of $5K minimum would come in handy There are also probably so many other small bits & pieces that ive either forgotten due to so much work needing to be done to get this done ...... one example are simple fittings and lines ..... costly stuff when you have to get a few of them ..... if u have ever bought speedflow gear u will know what i mean If people now see this as being way to much commitment and would prefer a small bang for buck approach obviously you could refrain from cracking open the engine which will save $'s ...... also you could choose to go down the supercharger path where off the shelf kits are readily available which require little mods to get them running once again costing less $'s. But as per the requirements you will need to forgo the need to pushing big numbers or crapping on other performance cars ...... yes this approach will net u one quick sportivo but munching big performers it wont ...... i should also mention that all of this will come attached with some long periods of down time .... i.e. u not having the car on the road ..... unless ofcourse u pour more money into this and u build everything on a 2nd engine, 2nd setup etc to pop it straight in but again added $'s ..... to achieve my setup i had 3 lots of 3-4 mths worth of down time i.e. 9-12mths in total not being on the road ..... another thing to think about if its ur primary form of transport. I hope i have given enough info and insight that will help those that have pm'd me and those who have thought about this. cheers Bill


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