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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/08/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I'm using RDA discs with Bendix GCT DB2243. Be aware on Aurion there can be 2 types of pads, DB1474 or 2243. See this article: https://www.bendix.com.au/bendix-news/comparing-db1474-db2243-toyota-camry-aurion-v40 I'd avoid the really cheap Chinese nonames and stick with the brands.
  2. 2 points
    Before I start, I DO NOT take any responsibility for any damage you might cause to your car. If you’re careful and you double check everything, you should be fine! I did this in a 40 series Aurion, so I honestly have no idea for 50 series and others. I’m sure it would be similar, but it would be best to find a workshop manual for your car to be certain on the wiring. All 40 series wiring should be identical, but it’s best to ALWAYS double check first. Alrighty! Let’s get started. I’ve recently installed paddle shifters in my 08 TRD Aurion and I know some people are interested in doing this too, so I’ll try my best to explain and show how it was done. I took photos whenever I remembered, so hopefully it’ll be good enough! I started out with buying a 50 series Sportivo steering wheel, with the stock paddles attached. Originally, I was going to just do a whole steering wheel swap over, though the plugs on the clockspring didn’t match up with the 40 series, so I decided to just remove the paddle shifters. They only consist of 3 wires.. Shift up, Shift down, and a common wire. If you have a Multimeter of some sort, then it’s best to check continuity on the paddles between Shift up and common, and then Shift down and the common, just to be 100% sure you’re using the correct wires and you’re not going to create a short circuit when you pull the paddle. It was also useful to have the whole steering wheel with pins that I didn’t need so I was able to use them on the clockspring plugs for the wiring I added. Otherwise you may have to track some down from a wrecker or look online to buy the pins. The first step was to disconnect the battery so I was sure not to short out anything. Then I removed the centre console and found the plug at the rear of the gear shifter. There is a white 8 pin plug located at the rear, fairly easy to access. After looking through the Aurion workshop manual, I eventually found the wiring diagram of the pin layout for the plug. I believe that the same wiring can be accessed under the dash somewhere, though I wasn’t sure where it was and found it easiest at the plug under the centre console. Pin 1 – Shift Down (Blue with silver stripes) Pin 2 – Shift Up (Dark green with silver stripes) Pin 5 – Common (White with Black line) With the battery still disconnected, I cut each wire and then crimped them back together using a female bullet lug (this also gave me a good spot to test for continuity between the wires, along with giving me somewhere easy to plug in the wiring I needed to add for the paddles). I then plugged the shifter plug back into the back of the shifter and used my Multimeter to check for continuity between Pin 1 & 5 when the shifter was pulled Down in ‘S’ Mode, and then between Pin 2 & 5 when the shifter was pushed up in ‘S’ Mode. I then crimped on some male bullet lugs onto a 3 core cable (it doesn’t really matter what cable you use.. Just make sure you remember which core is which!), plugged them into the female bullet lugs and then ran the cable through the back of the centre console and up underneath the steering wheel. Using some of the spare pins on the steering wheel I had bought, I soldered these onto the cable I had ran to the steering wheel. At this point I taped up each core individually and just left them under the dash for a bit and moved onto preparing the steering wheel. Steering wheel removal: PLEASE BE SURE YOU HAVE SOMEWHAT OF AN IDEA ON HOW TO REMOVE THE STEERING WHEEL! PLAYING WITH AN AIRBAG CAN ALWAYS BE A BIT DANGEROUS. BE SURE TO LEAVE YOUR BATTERY DISCONNECTED FOR AT LEAST 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING FOR SAFE MEASURE. Underneath the steering wheel on either side, are little plastic covers. Remove these to show a Torx screw head (size T-30 I believe). They probably won’t completely come out as they’re locked in the steering wheel plastic. Though once they’re undone, the airbag should just pull out. Carefully remove the 2 plugs by pulling up the yellow tabs with a small flat head screwdriver. Before completely removing the steering wheel, REMEMBER the position of it! You definitely don’t want to put it back on in the wrong spot. The centre bolt is a 19mm if I remember correctly. LOOSEN IT BUT DO NOT COMPLETELY REMOVE IT JUST YET. Pulling the steering wheel free from the shaft can be fairly tough.. But it’ll eventually come free after a lot of yanking at it and you’ll be happy you didn’t completely remove the 19mm nut as the steering wheel will most likely come off with a lot of force. Once it’s loose you’re free to remove the 19mm nut, unplug all the plugs and feed them through the back of the steering wheel. At this point I removed the plastic backing of the steering wheel and then put it back on the car so I was able to still drive it while I waited for the paddle extensions to arrive and also give me time to modify and paint the paddle shifters. Probably took about 2 weeks to have it how I wanted it as I really only had the weekends. So once I had the plastic cover off, I just made the shifters sit as flat as I could to avoid them hitting any of the stalks (Headlights, wipers, cruise control). It really depends what paddle shifters you try to use.. Though to attach 50 series paddles, I removed one side of the plastic cover that holds the printed circuit board for the shifters, drilled small holes through the steering wheel cover, and then just used the existing screws that held the PCB cover together, to mount them onto the steering wheel cover (I think that all makes sense..). I also drilled holes to feed the wiring inside the cover. It might look a little dodgy, but once it's all back together you can't see anything. Once I had the paddles cut down, painted, and attached to the extensions, I had to once again remove the steering wheel. This time around I had to remove the clockspring from behind the steering wheel. I didn’t get any photo’s at all of this, though there’s just a few little plastic clips holding it in place. I’m sure there are some videos or other forums out there that have a more detailed explanation on how to remove it. Be careful not to go spinning the clockspring around as it only has limited amount of turns in either direction as there’s a ribbon cable inside. On the steering wheel side of the clockspring there are 2 plugs, a white 10 pin plug and a white 4 pin plug. On the dash side of the clockspring there is a black 12 pin plug. In the dodgy photo I’ve made up, you can see what pins I found that had continuity through the clockspring.. Pin 3 from the steering wheel side matched up with Pin 4 on the dash side. Pin 4 from the steering wheel side matched up with Pin 3 on the dash side. Pin 2 on the smaller plug matched up with Pin 1 on the dash side. You can decide which pin order you'll use as it really doesn't matter. You just need to have Shift up, Shift down, and the common wire matching up on either side. I’m sure it’s not going to change from car to car.. But PLEASE double check this with a Multimeter just so you’re 100% sure it’s going to match up. Remember that this is all on the clockspring, the photos just show the plugs, I just didn’t take any photos of the actual clockspring. Once I was confident with all this, I put the clockspring back in the car, attached the steering wheel plastic cover back onto the steering wheel, plugged the wires from the paddle shifters into the spare pins shown in the photo above and then plugged the 3 cores from the dash side that were ran up from the shifter which I mentioned earlier, into the spare plugs on the 12 pin black plug. BE SURE THAT YOU’RE CONNECTING THE CORRECT WIRES ON EITHER SIDE! Then from there it was just plugging everything back in, bolting the steering wheel on, plugging the airbag in and tightening up the screws to hold it on, reconnecting the battery.. And I think that’s pretty much it! Now you should have working paddle shifters! Overall it wasn’t too difficult, it just took a bit of time working things out and setting it out the way I wanted it. If you’re going to give this a go, just take your time and take a bit of care! I apologize if I'm a bit slow to reply, but I'll try to answer all questions if there are any. Goodluck!
  3. 2 points
    Gearbox upgrade. Now running SADEV ST82-14
  4. 2 points
    Qfm A1rm + Hankook Rs-4 235/45/17Qfm A1rm + Hankook Rs-4 235/45/17 Nugget Nationals Track Day 2019 - Broadford Times as per computime: 1:59.434 1:26.888 1:28.091 1:21.701 1:24.258 1:18.30 1:17.86 1:40.950 2:19.734 1:20.329 1:16.777 1:31.106 1:24.283 1:58.424 1:17.692 1:17.378 1:23.867 1:17.534 1:18.249 1:38.960 1:17.415 1:17.801 1:19.021 1:19.962 1:20.988 1:22.799 1:40.728 1:24.747 1:17.080 1:17.465 1:24.515 1:16.661 1:16.721 1:34.753 1:17.812 1:17.508 1:18.577 1:19.128 1:19.077 Nice and cloudy Melbourne day top of 18° ... although it was showers and raining everywhere else, Melbourne decided not to shed its rain in the area until the last sessions in the afternoon. It was my first time racing on the track of broadford, its another level comparing to what im used to at winton. Its 850m shorter than winton and also has 12 turns, its usually used for motorcycle racing. The differences ive noticed straight away are the hills, the course has some nice uphills, and downhills. So this track has given me another perception on the car and a new learning curve on how to deal with gearing throughout the lowspeed corners on downhills and uphills. Paid attention to the tyre pressures today keeping them between 34-36 psi. Spun out on the same lap on turns 1 and 9 😅 in session 3 after adjusting the tyre pressures from 40 down to 36 and two clicks stiffer (from 7 clicks) on the coils on the fronts. As a final note, broadford super fun on another level with the ups and downs, tune in for the next track day Thanks for looking !
  5. 2 points
    Qfm A1rm + Hankook Rs-4 235/45/17 Nugget Nationals Exe Track Day 2019 Times as per Natsoft: 2:22.6630 2:13.3660 1:58.9960 1:56.2490 1:56.0510 2:02.3260 1:53.4550 1:52.0880 1:55.3410 10 1:54.8600 1:56.0970 1:50.4390 1:53.1360 1:51.2690 1:51.3250 2:07.6020 2:13.2910 2:10.2830 1:57.2960 1:54.2370 1:52.5870 1:51.5120 1:50.8620 1:52.9720 1:50.2260 30 1:49.9740 1:48.7380 1:52.5240 1:51.1060 1:55.7740 1:48.8690 1:56.7100 1:51.1570 1:53.5530 Beautiful cool cloudy day at winton, with no rain in sight, Finally broke into the 1:50 mark and beat it by two seconds a few sessions later. With a1rms back on the car, my confidence on braking at the 25/50m mark came back. Learnt more on gearing through corners, and putting foot down earlier, room for improvement to break pb next track day Thanks for looking !
  6. 1 point
    So that's how things stood at the start of this year.....basically nothing has happened since. Still got to pull the shifter cables out of the Celica shell (which requires disassembling most of the dash) along with some of the body harness (for the engine bay fuse box) but in the meantime I've started hoarding parts for the eventual conversion. First things first - some tools, and something to put them in. Been wanting a decent roll-cab for ages but never really had enough to fill it, but eventually got sick of all my stuff being scattered between two separate toolboxes, a builders-bag, and the floor, so I snagged one of the limited edition Mighty Car Mods roll-cab set when they went on special. Knew we bought a hatch for a reason... Then decided it was time to make the swap from Ryobi One+ to Milwaukee, much better tools as well as being smaller (with inline batteries too, much better for engine-bay/undercar work). Got a 1/2" power ratchet, 1/2" stumpy impact wrench and a 13mm hammer drill (for house stuff). Also just picked up a 1/4" hex-chuck impact driver for the small stuff (not pictured) Then came the parts hoarding. First up was a plug-n-play Adaptronic E440d ECU modified by Kaizen Garage, which Jason Purcell had running in his AE82 2ZZ race car. This will allow be to do away with the factory immobiliser, run a bigger intake without the factory MAF (has onboard MAP sensor), as well as tweak lift and redline rpms to my liking (not to mention being able to support bigger cams). Next was a bunch of little bits and pieces to try and spark my motivation again - a 6-speed TRD ball shift knob (from the Tacoma/FJ Cruiser), height perfectly suits the MWR short shifter. Also got the MWR underside WP and ALT pulleys for some extra bling, a 77° TRD thermostat, Speed Source extended slave cylinder pushrod, and an MWR MR2 2ZZ engine mount adaptor. Along with that I also sourced the RH engine mount from a 4ZZ Euro ZZE111, so between that and the MR2 adaptor I should have something close to built-in. Next up will probably be clutch/flywheel, and maybe start looking at cams (but that opens Pandora's Box, because then I'll need valve springs, then might as well get new stem seals, then might as well get new valves, which means the head has to come off etc etc) On, and the Celica shell is a bit breezy now too... by Ian Rigby, on Flickr
  7. 1 point
    Haven't heard of such cleaning product, can you ask them to offer more details on it? And you have to book the car in for 2 days? And as Ashley said, what kind of warranty do they provide? When I did our Aurions I didn't use any extra product, only what was required: gasket, strainer, o-ring and fluid. Rather than flushing with who knows what I think it's more important to drop the pan and clean it properly. And no, I didn't have to work for 2 days for transmission service. And no, I'm not a mechanic. See if you can get few quotes from independent transmission specialists.
  8. 1 point
    Will they provide a no questions asked type of guarantee to replace/repair the transmission if it fails after being flushed by their machine? I have seen the amount of build up on the transmission pan and precisely why I would stick with the more expensive option of removing the transmission pan and replacing the filter/strainer.
  9. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum Tanner KAA
  10. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum David KAA
  11. 1 point
    Hi is this forum still active. I would like to share my last Toyota Tiara pick up
  12. 1 point
    CAI - I have a mate who makes a nice flowing 3" design (2.75" at the maf) which runs like a dream, sounds nice and loud along with being quite cheap also. Shoot me a PM if you want some more details. I've run Injen and a modded Injen and I'd definitely say that Injen is severely over priced for the performance you get. COILOVERS - BC are the most popular option as there readily available. I'd go for the Golds as they are less known to experience issues compared to the reds. They are quite firm on the road so unless you're able to find Fortune Auto's for a good price they're probably the best coilover option. I have seen Tein's also but they run quite low springs rates and don't seem to handle as nicely as BC's. There are also Cusco's but I've known a few guys to move to BCs and said that they were much nicer than the Cusco's. There's a few other brands like D2, K Sport, XYZ or Yellowspeed but I haven't heard much about them. AIR FILTER - If you're going for CAI, you may as well not go with an upgraded panel filter. The stock intake system is very restricted and the CAI really opens it up. Any good flowing pod like an Injen, K&N or 3A Racing works well with good flow and filtration. SERVICING PARTS - I'd highly recommend full synthetic. I myself run Nulon Full Synthetic 5W-30 and currently sitting at almost 232000 kms and it barely burns it between changes. Depending on what oil viscosity you are running now and how much it burns, most guys seem to run Nulon or Penrite these days. I've always run OEM filters but Ryco does the same thing as well. BRAKES - I run T2 Slotted Rotors and QFM HPX pads and they are awesome on the street and spirited drives. They leave minimal dust, make no noise and bite very nicely. On the track, they aren't so good as they fade with the heat as I've seen a few guys run them at track days. You'd be able to get away with it if you plan on tracking say once or twice a year. If not, you'd need to consider the A1RM as it's suited to track conditions. SWAY BARS/LOWER CONTROL ARMS - I haven't seen many guys change the sway bars but, most go for the rear torsion bars. Whiteline is nice upgrade with 22mm over the standard 17mm and the fact that it's solid. Really stiffens up the rear end and is honestly one of the best mods to go for. As for lower control arms, I did purchase superpro ones but I stupidly went according to the stock suspension which means they're too long since the BC BR's I run come with shorter control arms. I've yet to find the correct number which will be suited to them so just running the BC ones. I've got 1 or 2 mates that have adjustable ones and they've never really made adjustments to them so it's up to you and whether you'd get a benefit from it. BLACK HOUSING HEADLIGHTS - This is a DIY. Allow at least a day to do and you'll need a heat gun, a few sharp tools (use old ones if you can since they'll get messy), high temp primer and high temp black paint. Up to you whether you go with a gloss or matte finish but most just go matte. The main things you need to be careful with are heating the same spot for a long time which can cause cracking and making sure you heat up spots enough along with placing enough pressure to re-seal them once done to avoid moisture and leaking.
  13. 1 point
    It's quite simply the best car I've ever owned. It might have a couple of niggles, but every car has those. The lid for the storage between the 2 front seats opens in a awkward manner, but you get used to it. It doesn't have Apple Carplay but I'm OK with that. I'm yet to find out when the subscription for the Navigation starts needing to be paid. I just have to remember to chase that up with Toyota. I must remember to see about getting the Maps updated, there's been the odd occasion when the Navigation has given me strange directions. But, really, I've got no real complaints.
  14. 1 point
    106.1 is almost certainly for the 6-stud PCD
  15. 1 point
    Hey guys ive recently bought myself a 2011 SR KUN26R couple of things I’m curious about- there is a strange ticking noise from behind the gauge cluster at about 110Km/h also a knock from right front suspension, mainly at low speed over bumps, was thinking a shagged bushing but it sounds like metal hitting metal at times, have the ute booked in for an inspection so should have an answer on this one shortly Overall stoked to have my dream ute, can’t wait to start tidying her up 😆
  16. 1 point
    Have a read of the following URLs: https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a91/1272436/ https://www.tectaloy.com.au/corrosion-inhibitor-concentrates
  17. 1 point
    Extremely expensive for an OEM FWD clutch, I know that a lot of rear wheel drive cars like Skyline's, Supra's, Falcon's etc pay that kind of money for heavy duty clutches. Exedy is honestly the way to go and I found the car much easier to drive with the heavy duty over stock, but that's just me.
  18. 1 point
    Exedy clutches are excellent. I went with the HD and it honestly feels lighter than the OEM my car came with when I bought it. I haven't had pedal feel for a replacement Exedy at all but, oddly enough when I tried a HD in my mates 2004, it felt heavier than mine. When he transferred his gearbox with the same clutch into his 2005, the pedal felt exactly like mine, soft.
  19. 1 point
    has he checked the gearbox ? https://share.qclt.com/丰田Toyota RAV4 Repair Manual/U140F Automatic Transaxle/Speed Sensor/02600310.pdf
  20. 1 point
    Possibly warmer weather and use of silicone spray will reduce the risk as well as the usual softly softly approach.
  21. 1 point
    I agree with Conrod..it should be what you like!!..your buying it,your driving it.... it should always be your choice & if that is too tough a decision to make then you should take a time out and then decide KAA
  22. 1 point
    Cant understand why people buy a car based on what other people say looks better, isn't it what you want, as your the one paying for it
  23. 1 point
    You can spin it out either direction, as its not physically attached to the speedo needle, but on reinsertion, you can also turn it either way, the majority you will be feeding it in by hand anyway as you need to apply the lube, ( Lube and turn, Lube and turn ) but when you are almost fully home turning it Anti-clockwise will allow your speedo to register speed, slow speed on your drill is all that's required, once its home having it on high speed will allow you to check if its smooth, Another tip, with your bonnet open feed the speedo cable end that you removed back up through the engine bay, removing it off its retaining clips so the whole cable assembly is up where you can stand up and perform the removal and re-assembly of the inner, save rooting around underneath and allows you to hold it more or less in a straight line ( If you ever have the opportunity to get a speedo pulled apart, they have a small cylindrical drum which spins around whats looks to be a magnet and the faster the drum spins it draws the needle to register speed ) As I,m not the one doing the job mate,no responsibility taken as Im only advising you of the way I went about it
  24. 1 point
    I fitted a Blusteele Heavy Duty part no. BHD -799018 I use the car in hillclimbs as well as on the road, I recently had the engine out and it looked fine. You'll find them on the bay of e at reasonable money. It came with centre plate and tool to line it up. Let us know what you go for.
  25. 1 point
    vouch for vmax, i have them on right now, but i have aggressive pads (qfm a1rm). ive also used rda rotors and dba t3s . rda and vmax come from the same person. but i wouldnt get anything other than slotted/blank discs from these guys, (even the dimpled ones will turn or look like a blank disc after) if you're in the northern suburbs of melbourne, you can pick them up from there. From experience the bendix general pads are okay for day to day normal driving, but the moment you take it on a spirited run, or even some downhills with some braking. Your fluid will cook, and your pedal will loose brake feel. i found remsa pads ($50) to be a bit better and cheaper compared to the bendix generals ($75) i may try the 2243 pad in the near future, thanks for the info !
  26. 1 point
    RDA rotors is a good choice. However, I bought the following front rotors on eBay but have yet to fit them. I also bought the rear rotors too https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SLOTTED-VMAXS-fits-TOYOTA-Aurion-GSV40R-2006-Onwards-FRONT-Disc-Brake-Rotors/122678193968 I also use the Bendix Ultra Premium pads [proven product] but the General purpose will also suit my driving requirements. I drive smart so trying to avoid any unnecessary hard braking and most of my driving is essentially urban. However, I do an annual interstate open highway trip so my vehicle is set up for an emergency hard braking. Long past experience was having to do a hard brake from 100kph down to a standstill to avoid a head on collision. Still remember the cloud of tyre smoke drifting by after becoming stationery. Also do not overlook having good quality brand name tyres to enhance braking performance and safety.
  27. 1 point
    Qfm A1rm + Hankook Rs-4 235/45/17 Exe Double Sprint Day: [Sunday] Times as per natsoft: 2:15.1840 1:55.2640 1:53.3110 1:49.5610 1:49.3680 1:51.1620 2:01.7330 1:57.9140 1:54.8270 10 1:49.3160 1:48.7730 1:51.1190 1:48.7820 2:05.6930 1:56.1370 1:53.5520 1:51.7210 1:52.9960 20 1:51.1410 1:59.8480 1:51.4680 1:50.5040 1:51.3660 1:49.3500 1:53.3650 1:48.5780 30 1:48.7760 1:49.4580 1:51.6250 1:54.6520 Not a bad day, although i wanted abit more sun as it was cloudy. 25°C felt a lot colder. Got off track on the sweeper of first session right off the pits 😅, broke a little bit of my confidence which lead to being a bit more cautious the whole day. Didnt know what tyre pressure were initially set at but this time it only went up to 30psi (previous track day was 5-6psi more) for me i felt like it didnt warm up enough. I also took out the strut bar halfway through the day as i felt the car was too stiff and twitchy (21 clicks and front strut), and went back to 7 clicks on the fronts. Car felt better swinging into the sweeper and the boob. Either way, still had fun 😄 and extra seat time and experience is good too, now looking at getting an lsd to help through the "boob" sections (turns 6-9) as my forearms started to hurt after the day 😛 Thanks for looking !
  28. 1 point
    The best people to speak to for hilux performance issues is probable Rhodeside Auto https://www.rhodeside.com.au/services/dyno-tuning/ Give them a call.
  29. 1 point
    I know you'd like to keep everything genuine but have you considered the Exedy replacement clutches at all? I'm sure in the long run they'd be the same and cheaper than getting one from Toyota. Just a thought. I can try and see what the part number would be for you.
  30. 1 point
    I know this has been shown before, but I still cant get over how neat this bloody thing is
  31. 1 point
    Hi i have a 2012 Toyota Aurion engine for sale that has only done 1200kms and has sat in my shed for years (i was doing a 2grfe swap on an MR2 but my situation changed) i also have the computer and a few other things for it. it is located within the wimmera area postcode 3393 and will need to be picked up by the buyer. i dont have a way to lift it so bring a crane. $3000 Please call or text me on 0474442953 thank you
  32. 1 point
    https://toyota-general.epc-data.com/camry_aurion/ or http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q_G_2014_TOYOTA_AURION_all.html Might be able to help you with being able to search by the VIN
  33. 1 point
    Craig, I think that you will find that because your 07 Aurion is more than 10 years old that Toyota Australia will not accept a claim to replace the dash. However, your situation may be treated differently particularly if this dash issue had previously been reported for your vehicle by previous owner/s.
  34. 1 point
    There were 2 types of calipers on the 2006 to facelift models so take a pad off and take it to the parts shop.
  35. 1 point
    chuck it on top of your car and see if it will fit... or whether there are mounting points that are able to go on your car... no stupid questions here, ive heard of silvia s14 spoilers fitting on my model camrys 🙊
  36. 1 point
    Just came across this URL which mentions 4 main recommended engine oil change intervals based upon your driving habits. https://auto.howstuffworks.com/under-the-hood/vehicle-maintenance/dirty-truth-about-oil-changes.htm
  37. 1 point
    Recently, the battery charging warning light came on while driving home Thursday night. Checked the fusible link and it ended up being OK. Starting to look as though the alternator would have to be replaced. As luck would have it, I was going to be taking the girlfriend about 4AM next Monday to the airport. Friday morning, I recharged the battery, refitted it Friday night to drive to girlfriend's house. Car was still drivable but the battery charging warning light was still on. Certainly then appreciated having the larger size and capacily before the battery became fully drained. Fortunately, the warning light went out after I accelerated hard to change lanes. I am guessing that the decoupler pulley on the alternator is now functioning correctly rather than the alternator. Will further check the alternator.
  38. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum..one question why here!... When you say you own a BMW KAA
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Ultra racing rear sway bar, cheap and makes a big improvement
  41. 1 point
    Are the TTR parts the same as what was on the TTR Corolla or MR2? Quite possible the dealer just spec'd it up themselves to try and move some slow-selling base stock, and had it as a demo/display model on the showroom floor. If it has moved a few times it could have been the personal car of a dealer principal (or maybe the principal's wife etc) that they kept after the new model came out.
  42. 1 point
    Update, still leaking, but I found the cause, I remembered I had the Sunroof, repaired, and guess what the tube had fallen off on driver side. Bloody Toyota dealership, I could kick them up their b*m. No more leaks.
  43. 1 point
    Thanks mate I got the spoiler on ebay about a year ago, was around 200 bux unpainted, ABS plastic instead of fibreglass.
  44. 1 point
    I'm Alive. I try to check at least twice a year
  45. 1 point
    wow havn't been on here for months still looks dead... who is everyone
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point

    From the album: " My Baby "

  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    i've got the xtreme lightened chromoly flywheel and clutch. gets those revs quicker to lift and when it reaches lift... its heaven
  50. 1 point
    More power yes but choose the right type of LSD for what you primarily do. Are you more track oriented with a lil bit of street driving or the other way round?? LSD on the street can be a real biatch. I think Xoom runs a quaife LSD 1.5way. Xoom if you red this is that right??

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