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  1. 2 points
    After reading the following URLs, I am quite happy with the using a higher viscosity oil for engine wear protection especially in extreme driving conditions. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/car-technology/a53/what-oil-does-my-car-take/
  2. 2 points
    You should be fine with 5w40. On my wife's 2013 Aurion I'm using 5w30, on my 2008 I've been using 5w30, 10w30 and 5w40 and they're both just fine. Currently going through the Valvoline Synpower 5w40 bottles from my oil stash, then I'll probably switch to Castrol Edge 10w30. As long as you change the oil and filter on time you'll be ok with any group III synthetic oil, chase the sales and stock up when you feel like. And don't skimp on the filters, over here Toyota OEM from the nearby dealer here happen to be cheaper than Ryco.
  3. 2 points
    Thanks for your opinions Gents..I checked the Toyota manual and it seemed to me that 5w30 was better suited to colder climates...I could have chosen nulon also I guess, just Penrite seemed to have good reviews. Also thier website live selector said this spec was suitable ? They have this extra 10 theology going on, it's saying that at higher ambient temperatures a higher viscosity is better for reduced friction !! I'm telling you this oil subject has done my head in a bit. If I see reduced economy and higher oil usage between changes, I'll turf it for Nulon 5w30. In the mean time I'll pass on my observations here till next service. I'm going to do 6 monthly services on oil each year, I've decided. Cheers Gents.. 😀
  4. 2 points
    Agree that using 5 W-30 is the way to go, i have only ever used it since having our Presara..I also Use Nulon in all the cars I have owned as i have always found their oils excellent quality..i would suggest as you have already made the purchase of the 7 litres use it and think about using the 5W-30 next time..as the heat up your way is going up each year, the difference should not be an issue with the 5W-40 Enjoy your Presara..as we have never ever looked back after buying ours they are beautiful to drive KAA
  5. 2 points
    If I could do it, anyone can 🙂 Here's the link to my post on this topic, it's on the previous page on this topic: There are heaps of other, much better documented articles on how to service the U660E POS, my favourite one is by far the TN topic here: https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/diy-2007-2011-v6-and-2010-2011-i4-camry-6-speed-auto-transmission-flush-with-pics.576361/
  6. 2 points
    Very nice Big Mike ! 👍 Glad you enjoyed the trip and made it back safely. If it were a four cylinder, I seriously doubt it would even come close to those figures. I was always confident it would be light on fuel. Toyota built a magnificent engine in the 2GRFE. I love my Aurion !! Let it be our little secret lol...
  7. 2 points
    Another good aspect of having an Aurion over a Camry is how fuel efficient the V6 can be. 4 Cyl cars will strain up hills and chew the fuel, whereas the V6 pulls effortlessly. I love the feel of the V6 all day over a 4 cyl. My wife drives ours mainly and she gets between 11 and 12 around town and she doesn't have the same right foot finesse as I do. When I drive it around town I can get into the 9's and on the freeway I've had it between the 6's and 7's, so yeah I can't see why you can't get 700 klm to a tank if driven sensibly and on highway. Don't forget also to keep tyres inflated to correct pressures to reduce rolling resistance. Every little bit helps lol.. Happy motoring everybody !!
  8. 2 points
    Something that I do is to leave the windows down a little bit. I am hoping that this will help to dissipate some of the heat build up in the cabin.
  9. 1 point
    So I've been using this removal tool by Kincrome since purchasing my Aurion and slowly over time it's been getting harder and harder to remove the filter housing with this almost impossible tool. My recent oil change was the last straw. After draining the oil, I then proceeded to remove the housing the usual way, locate the tool on the housing, attach socket to breaker bar and attempt to loosen. Only this time the hex part on the tool began to round off due to the torque required to loosen this damn housing off. The socket kept slipping and I use quality sockets ! I tried several time to no avail and this left me 1 of 2 choices. Do I put the old oil back in and wait to get another tool or just fill it with fresh oil and do another change later. I chose the latter. Much to my frustration I added the 6 lt of 5w-30 Fully synthetic, gritting my teeth knowing the old filter is still in. ARRGHH !! I contacted kincrome to voice my disappointment in what was supposed to be a premium tool. It wasn't cheap either. They have since responded and that it will be covered under their lifetime warranty, so I'll take it down to an authorised seller (no receipt required) and they will assess and process the warranty claim. The bad part of this tool is that it only has a provision for a hex socket as it has no 3/8" or even a 1/2" socket cut into the centre as a plan B. The cheaper knock offs on ebay even have this. So it's a poorly conceived idea. Let this be a lesson. You can sometimes never get what you pay for, even if it's made by a reputable company. The expensive stuff can sometimes be worse than the cheaper options. I have since ordered 2 exact type of tool off ebay to be able to do a comparison and see for myself. I'll let you know the outcome. By the way, out of interest. Is there a tightening torque spec for the housing. I don't think I over tightened it either as it has an O-ring. I tighten it up until it stops then nip it up a little. That's it.
  10. 1 point
    As an update, I did previously clean and re-gap the spark plugs. MAF sensor and spark plugs have now been delivered; air filters have yet to be received. MAF sensor got fitted Saturday morning and Yaris was back to normal. After a test drive and further driving this morning, decided not necessary to replace spark plugs until say Xmas.
  11. 1 point
    I estimate about 500ml. Oil was in good condition [only a few months old] so I reused it. After filling up the housing with the cartridge in position, there was about 100ml left in the drain pan so it went back into the engine.
  12. 1 point
    I mainly buy my engine oil on special at SuperCheap. Main criteria is the viscosity 5W/10W-30/40 and oil specification e.g. ILSAC GF-5. Penrite, Nulon and GulfWestern being Australian are my preferences. http://www.gulfwestern.com.au/about-us/
  13. 1 point
    Hi Tony Prodigy, thanks for your advices and opinion. Actually, I had a C36 AMG Mercedes years ago and ran that on nulon. It was very smooth and in my mind, improved it's performance. I will use this Penrite now that I've spent $100 buying it, if it burns oil too much, I will dump the Penrite and go with Nulon 5w30. Glad your Aurion has benefited from the long use of Nulon. I always try to source Australian made products where possible. Cheers
  14. 1 point
    Hey BigMike. Don't take as Gospel the recommended use from parts suppliers. They can be wrong sometimes, not that the Penrite is a wrong choice here. I'd probably use it too. I Started using the Nulon 5w-30 since I bought my car and it had 40k on the clock. It's now nearly 120K and all is good. Doesn't burn a drop. The dipstick always reads full even before I drop the old oil, so that may say something for the Nulon product. I'm like you and most here, I want to support Australian made as much as I can and looks like we all are doing our bit to keep what's left for our Country.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Hi everyone. I've been using Penrite HPR 5 Engine Oil - 5W-40 6 Litre https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/search?q=Penrite+HPR+5+Engine+Oil+&lang=en_AU for many years now, first in my Aurion and now in my Kluger. It was recommended by the shop staff and to be honest, it does the trick for me. I don't know much about oils but to me, the car seems to idle/drive smoother when I change to this oil. It's a little expensive at full retail but you can often pick it up on special for $45 - $50 and I think it's the most cost effective way of maintaining the Aurion's engine.
  17. 1 point
    You may want to give some thoughts as to how you are foing to record your observations. I check my oil level weekly so I can readily notice the oil on the dipstick changing from being clear to a slightly golden colour. Nothing like a series of photos to substantiate your observations.
  18. 1 point
    A full synthetic oil is definitely the way to go especially for longer interval oil changes. Just happened to be looking at the electronic version of the service manual and the recommendation is 5W-30 for performance and fuel economy. However, I am sure that the Australian owners manual has a number of different oil viscosity ranges. I do recall reading about a higher oil viscosity for engine wear protection. I have recently looked at some YouTube videos comparing oils with the same viscosity and their flow rate. Appears that the different additive package enables a better flow rate when I was expecting the flow rate to be the same for oils with the same viscosity. All food for thought. Hopefully later in the year, when I am able to go for my annual road trip Brisbane to Wagga Wagga, travelling on the highway with outside temperature of 35C plus and the air-conditioning on max. I will probably have 10W-40 oil in the engine. However, I was thinking about using 5W-30 for the next oil change but winter has yet to arrive in Brisbane.
  19. 1 point
    Definately stick with 5w-30. The 2GR-FE has pretty tight tolerances so the thinner oil will help it all circulate correctly. I use the Nulon product and have always just used the 6lt. Be frugal and get as much of it out and it will be fine. It fills it to full on the dip stick. No need to waste money on the that extra 1lt for the 100ml you really don't need. Then you've got 900ml sitting around absorbing moisture and by the time the 3rd oil change comes around, it would've gone off by then.. Wait till they go on special and you can get the 6lt for around 48 bucks as opposed to full mug retail of $78 +
  20. 1 point
    Explains why the Police appear to target the younger drivers to re-educate them into driving sensibly to stay alive. Took the experience of 2 accidents in a row for me to adopt a defensive driving attitude. Aggressive driving of which tailgating is a sign will eventually result in a smashed up vehicle. Quite happy to get out of their way so they can rush off for their destiny with KARMA. After they come to grief, I just keep driving safely to my destination.
  21. 1 point
    Your owners manual will specify the spec, afaik it's 5W30 for the 2GR-FE & you'd get the latest version being SN GF5. 40 weight is OK I guess cos you live in banana country ;)
  22. 1 point
    I couldn't agree more. I'm sure this is generally the same for all States as it's pretty much common sense. Overtaking slower vehicles in the left or if the left lanes are congested is kind of the same as it means that one needs to overtake THEN get back into the left, middle or far left. The idea is to keep the over taking lane strictly for "overtaking" or for emergency vehicles. Common sense isn't all that common anymore I'm afraid. Our driving standards has gone to crap, especially with the new age of drivers and that "sense of entitlement" garbage which is incessantly ingrained in them. God help us all. I do enough driving to and from work and I love being at home anyway, so I won't be going for a drive to relieve any boredom. I'm very busy at work and sometimes have to work weekends so my free time doesn't exist all that much. Easter is coming up and it will be a welcome relief. I can catch up on some personal projects. I hope everyone stays safe these coming months and especially this coming winter...
  23. 1 point
    There is a product called Viper Evap+ which is designed to clean evaporators without removing them. Basically just spray it on to the evaporator and start the vehicle and it self cleans, but if its as bad as you made it sound it may not do much and it only comes in a 4L bottle and you need a foam gun to spray it with so probably end up costing almost as much as just getting someone to clean it out properly.
  24. 1 point
    I came across this youtube video that you guys might find interesting
  25. 1 point
    Watching Brian May of Queen on you tube, delivering his Covid - 19 message. What a great man ! Listening to while writing this..
  26. 1 point
    Glad all went well Mike, and that you managed to get home safe and sound, even though we are all in isolation now my wife and I try to duck out for a drive just to feel an escape from 4 walls and still enjoy our Presara enjoying some nice tunes as we silently cruise the roads. Stay Safe Mate.. KAA
  27. 1 point
    Cheers guys mines trd 0337 had xr8s an ve ss b4 hand an this car is way in a class above those so nice to drive
  28. 1 point
    Oh Deyrick, Aurions aren't the right car for donuts mate. Sorry, but karma has bitten here. Who knows what kind of damage you've done to it. You could have also damaged the CVs too. If you can get a transmission for 1k (that is if it is in fact broken), I'd jump on it cos they are usually around the 3-4k mark. Ashley you can correct me if I'm wrong. Get yourself a proper, rear wheel drive and go to town, preferably in a controlled environment such as the drag strip or something. We don't advocate dangerous driving here.. Good luck with it and let us know how you go. Cheers Tony
  29. 1 point
    Interesting that I just bought a twist socket set on eBay today after watching some YouTube videos about removing lugnuts. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/11Pcs-Damaged-Nut-Lock-Remover-Twist-Socket-Set-Screw-Extractor-Tool-16-27mm/163841096946 Let you re-think that approach. Even just tightening the housing up until it stops will be more than sufficient then you have the metal expansion when the engine block and oil warm up to operating temperature.
  30. 1 point
    I have looked at this type of tool a few times but stayed with using a 3/8" drive directly to the bottom of the housing. When refitting the housing, I lubricate the o-ring and then tighten by hand. Sometimes it takes a few attempts so threads match and it spins up quite freely. I then tighten it by hand all the way then back it off a 1/4 turn. Afterwards wipe down the housing in case you want to check there is no oil leakage later.
  31. 1 point
    I think the key message here would be to change the oil regularly and use a high quality synthetic oil. 3000 kay service interval is a bit much (no offence Ash, just saying), I'm between 8 and 10 kay on mine having used a high quality synthetic oil since I've had it starting from 40,000 kays and definitely no sludge to date. It runs so sweetly.
  32. 1 point
    You put a funnel into the plastic tubing. https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=10mm clear plastic hose Have a good read of this thread. https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/56280-transmission-u660e/?tab=comments#comment-570320 Following are my attachments about servicing the Toyota 6 speed auto transmission fitted to the Aurion. How to to service the Toyota 6 speed Transmission.doc U660E AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID ADJUSTMENT.doc
  33. 1 point
    Glad your trip went well there..yes good economy hope you enjoyed the cruise KAA
  34. 1 point
    The fuel light will come on well before you'd run your tank dry, so can't really tell how many ks you'd get on a full tank. But if your fuel consumption stays around 7.3-7.5l/100km, as I'd expect, you should be all good. My best ever figure on a long drive was 6.9l/100k, otherwise I usually sit in the low-mid 7s.
  35. 1 point
    38psi around Melbourne on a 40 degrees hot day means squealing at every turn, unbearable 😀 For trips, though, I go with 36-38psi depending on the weather, if it's a rather cool day I'm comfortable with pumping in 38. Have a safe trip Mike, I'm sure you'll enjoy the car on open road, very little road noise AND VERY responsive when overtaking is needed.
  36. 1 point
    Hi Mike, like others have said you can add a little more when filling..I also don't tend to over fill unless doing a very long open road trip..then that little extra tends to burn off fast..A good idea to top up when possible..I also keep around 36-38 psi in the tyres when on the open road journeys and lower for around town when home, I hope it is a smooth and pleasant trip for you..let us know how it all goes for you..but most important of all stay safe KAA
  37. 1 point
    When overfilling the tank, I get about another 2 litres in. I mainly do this when travelling interstate so that 2 litres and more burns off fairly quickly thus reducing the possibility of any effects upon the charcoal canister in the evaporation fuel control system. Best not to be in a situation where 2 litres is the difference between driving or walking to the next petrol station. Keep plenty of fuel in the tank to help cool the petrol pump.
  38. 1 point
    Not a fan of overfilling the petrol tank, not really worth it. https://www.cnet.com/roadshow/news/overfilling-gas-tank-topping-off-dangers/
  39. 1 point
    Hi Mike, I agree with Ashley, i did a long driving holiday from NSW Central Coast to Melbourne and surrounding areas and got over 10kms per litre at average highway speed, and around town still get 11-11.5 kms..i would agree to refuel just for peace of mind as i don't like my tank under 1/4 full at anytime..just a habit i have as the old (you never know thing) and if anything urgent does arise at least i know i can just jump in and go. I hope you enjoy your trip..stay safe..just cruise and enjoy the adventure KAA
  40. 1 point
    You should easily get more than 10kms/litre on the open highway. Aurion has a 70 litre tank and the fuel warning light comes on with about 15 litres remaining. Plan upon refuelling at either Moree or Narrabri if going via the Newell Highway.
  41. 1 point
    Hey all. New here, recently purchased a trd Aurion. No243 Looking to try and get an updated topic for the TRD Aurion and performance modifications. Also links to providers for parts and modification services. Already made the modification to the collector from front and rear exhaust banks. Cost me 300$ pretty significant improvement to mid range torque. Low down was already useless due to wheel spin. Currently looking for options to intercool the supercharger. Any input would be appreciated.
  42. 1 point
    My 2007 has 253000 km. It started out as a rental car... so probably had a hard early life. I have no issues at all. I replace oil at 5-6000 km intervals depending on the rest of my life... I am a bit hesitant to believe codes, the sensors that report them seem to be the problem as much as the problem they indicate.
  43. 1 point
    Hi Tony C, after reading your reply, I did some checking on line and found out the last Aurion came off the production line on 17/8/17 at the Altona plant, Melbourne. Also, the compliance sticker shows date of June 2017.
  44. 1 point
    I'm using RDA 8112 rotors with Bendix DB2243 GCT pads for more than a year, no issues.
  45. 1 point
    Another good video on changing ATF https://www.project200.com.au/atf-flush/ I also got to know that Toyota ATF is made by Idemitsu, Japan. The only thing which I'm not very clear, is that if it is synthetic or mineral ATF.
  46. 1 point
    The following rules apply to the Buy and Sell section: All private vehicle sales must be made in the Toyota's For Sale section. No commercial selling is allowed. Traders must read the terms and conditions located here: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/terms-conditions/ or alternatively contact management who will point you in the right direction. Sale posts may only be made in the Buy and Sell forums. The Sale Template below must be used for all sale threads including vehicles. You may only 'bump up' your item once every 48 hours. Bumping includes any posts made in your for sale thread that are not adding additional information related to the item, or answering questions from other users. At the discretion of the management, posts may be removed at any time without notice; and if deemed necessary the member may have their access restricted. The eBay section is not to be used for private or trader sales, it is for eBay finds only. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate in contacting a member of the management team. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sale Template Please remove the italicised portions and input the relevant information. * In the title of the thread you MUST include the state the item is located, for example: [NSW] 1990 Toyota Corolla SX Hatch Item: Location: Website: <If selling on eBay / Carsales> Item Condition: <New/Used/Refurbished> Reason for Selling: Price and Payment conditions: Any additional information: Shipping: <Willing/Not willing to ship or Postage at buyers expense> Pictures: Contact Details: -------------------------------------------------------------------------
  47. 1 point
    The 2liters of Penrite LV is operating normally after about 1000km. No change in shift quality etc.
  48. 1 point
    Check out this thread mate. But essentially, it's just calipers, rotors and pads, and they just bolt onto wherever the stock Aurion setup was. Here's a pic of my Kluger brake and wheel setup on the Aurion:
  49. 1 point
    To save on the hassle, you can just choose to stick with what Toyota uses when you get your car serviced. If you are picky (like me), you can bring your own oil in. My reply in the thread 'New member here ~~question for Aurion service' In my opinion, the Australian winter is just not cold enough to justify using an oil grade lower than 10W30. If you really wanted extra assurance in winter, you could go for 5W30, but there really isn't a need. 10W30 is good all the way down to a temperature of -20 degrees Celsius, and the 5W30 is good al the way down to -30 degrees. To be on the safe side, you take (add) 10 degrees to this. So if you think your car will experience temperatures lower than -10 degrees Celsius, then go for 5W30, otherwise you will be fine with the first. As for the oil I use, it all comes down to personal preference; everyone has different opinions. I use Fuchs Titan Super GTO 10W30. It is a fully synthetic oil and it only costs $39.99 for a 5L bottle. I change my oil at 7,500km intervals, so the price point is a good one. Have not had any issues with the oil at all. Another thread of interest: Best engine oil?




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