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  1. Greetings everyone, For some reason changing the Auto oil isn't in the service schedule, but my former mechanic and OTT self was never satisfied with that idea. So at 61,000km and 3.5 years I decided to have the oil changed, and it was going to be changed properly. As most people here know if you just drain and refill the auto and refill, you only change about half the oil (the other half is in the torque converter) So I decided that if I was going to have it done, it was going to be done properly (I understand everyone has budgetary constraints) including a flush and having the pan filter changed. Since the car is under "extended warranty" I opted for genuine ATF, and genuine pan filter. Costs (nearest whole dollar): 2 bottles of Genuine ATF $150 (needed 3, but I couldn't obtain another one, and I found out on the day AFTER they had started on my car) 1 Pan filter $150 additional trans-fluid for the flush (final refill was with the genuine oil only) + trans pan gasket + flush and labor in general = $264 Total = $564 Using non-genuine probably would have cost circa $420 from memory ($280 for tans oil and filter change, and circa $140 for the flush) Seeing the burnt oil that was in the car (sample shown and kept), and knowing that it has completely fresh oil + filter = priceless :-) Result: The shifting is smoother, though it wasn't bad before changing it (it just feels that bit more refined, and to sound corny... like new) I would recommend this (as best as your budget allows), as it is cheaper than a new/ re-built transmission :-) Regards Stephen
    3 points
  2. I’m sure by now you’ve worked out that I’m quite happy to make subtle tweaks and changes to Sebastian. Some are practical, while others are more about making him feel more like “ours” and a little less like someone’s Uber ride. The rubber shift knob was one of those things. It’s functional, it’s not too worn, but ultimately I felt it was a little more “base model” than mid-spec. Enter my stunning new knob. Looks like it should have been there since day 0!
    3 points
  3. Sorry guys, I had to post this. I have no clue who's running the marketing dept over there at Bowden's, but I'll take a guess and say it's a bunch of teenagers. Has to be. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/bowdens-own-bowdens-own-far-cough-anti-bacterial-spray---770ml/596645.html?cgid=SCA6004#start=122&sz=60 Almost forgot to add. Their having a 30% off sale on Bowden's products. So you can get your wet dreams, your shagtastic, your snowjob, the big green sucker, the snow blow, your black box, your muffy sponge, your three way, naked glass cleaner, drop bear, bugger off, fully slick bro, love glove, foursome detailing brushes, wet dreams and happy endings. Sheesh. I thought I was buying detailing products. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/7-day-deals?prefn1=srgBrand&prefv1=Bowden's Own&sz=60#main
    3 points
  4. I have got a more basic serpentine belt kit which did the job for me. However, I can see the benefit of spending the extra $$$ for a more comprehensive kit. I previously acquired a set of 6 extra long spanners with zero offset from Trade Tools. Got the 8mm size but missing 11mm, 20mm and 21mm. The extra 7th spanner makes your selected kit that bit more comprehensive. The extra length does give you more leverage for undoing those bolts in restricted spaces where you may not be able to fit another tool. I do have a separate 24mm ring spanner that I picked up from a clearance bin at either SuperCheap Auto or Autobarn. It is my goto spanner for the refill bolt on the side of the Aurion's auto transmission. More than likely I picked it up to complete a larger size range not realizing at the time that it was going to be so handy.
    2 points
  5. Howdy Folks, I came across these nice little sets and thought why not. A combination of 1/4" and 3/8" drive flexible sockets. You can never have enough tools I reckon, especially when you face that type of access that leads you to curse out of sheer frustration. Better to be prepared I reckon. Got these through Amazon.
    2 points
  6. I recently got into a situation where my Aurion hesitated upon hard acceleration from a low speed. An internet article suggested that a solution or part of the solution would be to clean the throttle position sensor. Started doing some research and eBay listings indicated that this sensor was a bolt on part. However, as I discovered when I actually removed the throttle body on my 40 series Aurion, the throttle position sensor is actually riveted to the throttle body. Attached picture is from an eBay listing for a used throttle body and you can see that it can do with a decent clean before being fitted.. I had recently cleaned the throttle body when it was attached to the intake and decided to give it a more thorough clean. As I could not actually remove the throttle position sensor, I placed the throttle body so that the shaft for the butterfly valve was vertical. I then sprayed some WD40 into the area a few times and let the WD40 penetrate and hopefully do some cleaning. This was done to both ends of the shaft. Upon reassembly, I attached the lower coolant hose to the throttle body then using a small funnel was able to pour some coolant into the upper coolant hose until coolant spurted out of the throttle body. Upper coolant hose was then refitted. It took a few attempts to start the engine before it started. I was thinking that the engine was idling higher a bit noisier, then discovered that I had not refitted a hose from the oil catch can to the intake. Everything sounded normal after refitting that hose so ready for a test drive which ended up being a drive to a beach on the Gold Coast. All good because I was able to test some hard acceleration from 80kph[roadworks] back up to 110kph speed limit. Later when coming home after exiting the freeway, I had a few more tests from a stationery stop at the traffic lights up to the various speed limits. Acceleration and gear changes were totally smooth and I attribute this to a lot of recent maintenance as well as this additional cleaning. Main finding is that it was worthwhile to remove the throttle body to be able to give it that extra bit of a thorough clean to be just like new
    2 points
  7. LOL as Paul Hogan would say NOW THATS A SPANNER, great additions mate ty for the Pic's KAA
    2 points
  8. Hi Tony, I'm not sure if you would call the below burnt (I only put it into the bottle this morning, and so this is my first proper look at the oil) I was looking forward to trying a different oil, the place uses Valvoline full synthetic, but I'm glad that I didn't. Simply from the point of view of seeing how the transmission is with new genuine oil, I can now say that the shifting is smoother than before the oil change (it wasn't harsh, but I can tell the difference). If I had gone straight to a non-genuine oil, it would have led me to the conclusion that the non-genuine oil is better than the OEM oil (because of the smoother shifting) I bought the car brand new (Oct 17 build from memory, and purchased in Feb 18) My car doesn't have an Auto cooler, but does have an auto fluid heater (or is it heat exchange unit??), so perhaps that may be why it was fairly dark considering the "low" km's I don't do any towing, and whilst I drive it spiritedly at times, I wouldn't have said that I drive it "hard" @ 2:39 to the right of the radiator hose (for the auto fluid heater)
    2 points
  9. Heyo, I have essentially done a muffler delete on my Aurion. The mufflers are still physically attached to the vehicle (so it looks legitimate), however, before the rear Y-pipe in the exhaust, my exhaust dumps facing down onto the road. It gives it the familiar V6 groans that Commodores have. It doesn't sound amazing, but I'm happy for it to be louder. That also being said, I have left the resonator pipe (the more larger diameter pipe) in, for drone purposes. I did however do a 3rd cat delete, and I did hear the faintest noise difference before the muffler delete. The exhaust technician that was working with me on the muffler delete did say that by removing that resonator the car will drone badly, and it won't be much 'louder' anyway. Just that the drone would be worse. My car does drone as is. Anyone with a muffler deleted Aurio can attest to that. It's not as bad a commodore or 4cyl muffler delete drone however. I mostly hear the drone when on the Bruce HWY going up hills at 110km/h. While the little amount of drone there is doesn't bother me, I don't think I would be looking to delete that resonator-ish pipe. I don't know if it's much of a resonator anyway. I had two exhaust technicians (from different places) say there's no traditional resonator on Aurions. Just a larger diameter pipe around the existing one to minimise drone and exhaust noises in the cab. Whether or not they were wrong I'm not sure. I only speak as someone who's got a muffler delete (dumping the exhaust at the rear Y pipe, not straight piped to the tail of the car) and a 3rd cat delete. The louder and more 'bogan'* (*depending on your standards) the car is, the more attention you get from the police. I always make sure to (tiptronic) kick up a gear and do low revs past police to avoid any attention. Depends on your driving and where you live I suppose. Also I just read @campbeam's^ post I wholeheartedly agree. This is another reason I wanted to keep the mufflers and not get them gauged out. So if I ever do get police attention I can just cut the corner pipe weld and weld my y-pipe back onto the main exhaust pipe.
    2 points
  10. This may help mate, whilst my version doesn't use these products it does show the principles behind it :-) But, if you change the oil very regularly and don't have any known existing sludge issues, than adding a flush to the mostly still good oil should be ok (though I would still run a cheap semi-synthetic oil to rinse the engine to get any residual cleaners out):
    2 points
  11. Yep. The 5VZ-FE has three seperate belts, hence three seperate tensioners. All of which are the tradional old school threaded bolts in slide plates. Best to spray them with penetration fluid before attempting to loosen the main tensioner bolt as they have a tendency to seize and potentially snap if you're too vigorous in your removal application 😄 Luckily enough on these cars, the engine is North-South and clearance is a plenty, unlike the 2GR-FE which is a proper PIA as you all know.. Here's a video I found by the lovely "Faye". Enjoy fellas.. She's really cute😜
    2 points
  12. The best part of being a DIY person is that you will accumulate many tools over the course of your life and they will most likely remain with you until the end of your life. Pass them on to your kids perhaps, whatever. I'm still buying tools to this day, and as I always say... "you can never have enough tools" 😄 Most people who have the time and inclination to get their hands dirty will certainly benefit from the savings doing it yourself as opposed to having to pay someone to do the work for you. My last resort would be to pay someone if I'm incapacitated or unable to do it myself. As you said, there is satisfaction in being able to do it yourself and getting valuable experience along the way. This is turn allows you to impart that knowledge on very fine forums such as this. Win win. Thanks for the update Paul. Cheers
    2 points
  13. G'day Gents, I decided to carry out an oil service on our Aurion as I have been contemplating reducing my oil change intervals from 10K to between 5 and 7.5K. I decided to do it now having done exactly 5127 K since my last oil service post at 128,897 K. The day was last Friday and having the day off and being a nice morning I got to work. Initial dipstick check for oil level and colouration was first on the agenda. Pleasantly surprised, it was a hairline off the full mark and a nice golden glow. Good indication for how clean the engine is at 134K having done just over 5K on that oil. Oil stash woken from their slumber Next was to warm the engine, position the car and prepare necessary equipment and service parts. Genuine Toyota Filter and Sump Washer too. I gave it plenty of time for the oil to settle before dropping the oil plug. While waiting for the oil to drain, I took the opportunity to check the brake pads and adjust the brake fluid. I also needed to check the idler pulleys as one of them was starting to develop a light squeal on cold start up. Man it's a mongrel working on the side of the 2GR-FE. The clearance is ridiculous. That's another thread in itself I thought, so I'll just stick to the oil for now. I'll post up another thread regarding the idler pulleys shortly after this. I allowed the oil to drain for a good 2 hrs or so, jacking the car up to the jacks highest reach to extract as much from the inner vertical planes within the engine too. This netted around 100ml or so more not including the filter housing. Time to degrease and wash out the innards of the housing, install new filter and O'rings. Don't forget the sump washer too. Primed the new filter with oil prior to Reinstalling the filter housing (Remember, 22Nm torque !! ), and then time to filler her up with 6 lts of Nulon Fully Synthetic 5W-30 goodness. With the fill complete, I drained the collection tray into an empty 6 lt container and get a rough idea how much loss there had been during that interval. So whilst packing up and putting things away, I refit and torqued the wheels back on and dropped it off the jack. Roughly an hour had passed and the pan was completely drained. I then placed a new unopened 6 lt next to it and compared levels. There was a very slight loss as to be expected with oil filter saturation, residual oil in the engine which you can almost never retrieve and 5K of driving. I'd say that's a pretty darn good result all in all with approximately 100-150 ml down. I forgot to replace the AIR filter that day, so I did it this morning. Dug through my stash of service bits and grabbed the first one I had which was the Wesfil air cleaner. I have a whole bunch of these and AC Delco branded ones. One thing I don't recall is seeing the pre filter media attached to the pleated surface of the Wesfil. Hmmm, I thought. Something different. I'll have to monitor this and see if it conflicts with the normal passage of air, otherwise I may be inclined to just peel it off this and the others like it. This morning started out cloudy, wet, cold and miserable but is starting to fine up now. Yep it is very dirty as you can all see. It's due for another epic detail A quick oil level check too this morning. Car hasn't been started since Friday. One thing that annoys me is that it's hard to get an accurate read on the dipstick due to the bend in the tube. It wipes itself on the way up and you can just barely make out the oil level. Anyone else notice this ?? Anyway, she looks ok to me. And so Ladies and Gents, that concludes my oil service. Thanks for reading and I'll post up again on the next one. Kind Regards Tony
    2 points
  14. Finally got around to fitting the new bush into the shift cable linkage under the centre console. See photos below. The most difficult part was inserting the bush into the linkage eye at the end of the cable. I applied white zinc oxide grease to both the bush and the eye then used a small G-clamp to push the bush in. Temporary Fix Shift Cable Eye Bush Installed Cable Re-attached At the end of the job I gathered all the plastic bits that had somehow fallen off when the RACQ patrolman was getting me mobile again with his temporary fix (a couple of zip ties). See photo below. He did say that plastic get a bit brittle after a number of years. Most of the bits are redundant as the various components have several fixing points but I will have to glue the curved corner of my gear selector quadrant back in, if only for aesthetic purposes. Regards Paul
    2 points
  15. Window Switch Supplier: — AU $97.35 21% Off | 4pcs/Set For Toyota RAV4 Camry Corolla Yaris Vios Highlander LED Backlight Power Window Switch For Right Driving https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLxJVNV — Puddle Light Supplier: — AU $6.97 31% Off | 2Pcs Entry LED Light Car Door Courtesy Lamp For Toyota Prius 20 30 50 Camry 40 50 55 70 Harrier 30 60 Prado 150 J150 LC150 Reiz https://a.aliexpress.com/_mrihsab — Number Plate Lights: — AU $12.14 31% Off | 2pcs For Toyota Camry 50 55 V50 V55 XV50 XV55 Prius Yaris Verso Corolla 12V LED Car Number License Tail Plate Lights Light Bulb https://a.aliexpress.com/_mObJP3Z
    2 points
  16. The last of my adventures today involves stabbing the car with these: I am a little surprised at just how easy the trims around the window switches comes off. Original and my aftermarket switches viewed from the bottom. They look pretty well identical which is a good sign. The switches also clip into place making the majority of the job sensationally easy. While the drivers door pops apart the same way the switch unit is mounted with 3 screws. It’s a zero effort swap still, and nice to have switches without wear on the symbols. A crappy night photo. The light is far more blue (although still technically ice-blue) and the Lock Button lights up Red on the lock side one. Overall for the $100 spent I’m happy. Probably would get the white version if I was doing this again, but equally I can just swap the LEDs in these to match the rest of the LEDs at some point.
    2 points
  17. If you think puddle lights trigger me, then those dirty dim number plate lamps… Camera detection of number plates doesn’t rely on working number plate lamps, so there’s no reason to not resolve this. Half done. Like the puddle lamps I’ve skipped the wrestle of getting T10 LEDs into dirty housings and gone straight for LED replacement units. way whiter, way brighter. Install is a game, unclipped a lot of the bootlid liner. Back off the nuts retaining the garnish to give some wiggle room of the garnish. Clip the light assembly, then wiggle all items to rotate it out of the garnish. But still only a trim clip tool and a 10mm deep socket.
    2 points
  18. I like puddle lights. They’re a great thing. However I really dislike yellow aged bulbs in puddle lights. Especially when new bulbs OR led bulbs are readily available. But instead when not go one better and get a full LED replacement light? Ahhh soothing. These are going to be fantastic at night.
    2 points
  19. Counselling, what counselling?😁 Actually I find your acknowledged OCD quite inspiring which nicely offsets my tendencies to use quick workarounds. Better to do the job once and do it right then have to come back and do it all again. Also having the right specialised tools makes tasks so much easier and enjoyable instead of being a time wasting frustrating exercise. Good quality tools are worth the $$$.
    1 point
  20. Ah the goood ol' days. I used to love the Paul Hogan show. The Benny Hill show was another great one. What's happened to TV ?? It's gone downhill since then. Can't have shows like this anymore. Everyone is terrified someone may get offended, God forbid, the poor petals. 😄😜
    1 point
  21. A big killer of TBs is moving the butterfly valve too fast. It ruins the elec motor inside it. That link the OP posted mentions that. Only use TB cleaner!
    1 point
  22. I have owned a GSU40R series Kluger "2WD" since new for 9.5 years now. Mine only has 120,000km on it but it has has a varied life. As you are looking to buy a used one it can be pot luck on what you get... as with any used car. People (and dealerships/mechanics can do some bad things to cars. Oil sludge... This can happen with any modern motor, it is not unique to the 2GRFE motor. I did see one report where someone did complain of it but when the truth came out he admitted he had not changed the oil for OVER 5 years!! I have seen other cars where the oil has turned to the consistency of a crayon for exactly the same reason. I know in the US the 1st generation did have a problem caused by the crank case ventilation outlet being in the wrong location and a TSA recommended moving it to the front valve cover area and the problem ceased. I'm not sure if the 1st generation here had the same problem. Mine does not have a hint of it. THE CURE. Change the oil every 10,000 km or 12 months, use FULL synthetic 5-30 oil. Only use Toyota or Ryco oil filters and ensure they are installed correctly. If installed incorrectly they can crush and impede the oil flow. Maintenance... Oil change as previously mentioned. Air filter every 20,000km (Toyota or Ryco) and at that time clean the PCV valve, MAF* sensor and Throttle Body*. (*) Only use cleaners intended for this purpose. The service schedule states 80,000km for transmission service. Make sure this is done. The cooling system in modern cars is the ticking time bomb with most modern cars. This must be done on time and dont skimp on the coolant used or the method in replacing it. Ensure it is bled correctly afterwards. The rest is common with most cars, serpentine belt, pulleys, tensioners, sensors, water pump, etc... The timing chain is metal so should last the life of the car. Suspension... The handling is ok for the size and height of the car but seems a bit soft. I have fitted new KYB struts to the rear recently and it improved the handling noticeably and will be fitting them to the front soon. 2WD or AWD... I weighed up this when I was buying one. My cars for the previous 20 yrs or so were all FWD and I never had any problem with them on slippery roads. Naturally you have to drive to conditions and be sensible with the accelerator. The 2GRFE V6 is a powerful motor so you need to respect it. Good tyres are a must (Michelin). I have found the Kluger (2WD) has better traction in that regard than my other cars. Tyre wear is excellent. I got over 80,000km from my last set (Michelin) although the factory Dunlops were shot at 25,000km. The Michelins could have gone another 20,000km easily. The things that turned me off the AWD were the additional purchase price of the car, the extra weight, the extra servicing cost and the higher fuel consumption. Again that choice will be up to you and your intended use of the car. You get torque steer on all FWD cars. I cant recall noticing it on the Kluger though. BTW... The Kluger is basically an Aurion station wagon. It has a sedan type chassis and is not a bush bashing truck or suitable for towing large vans. I have towed a 14ft one with mine and it was no problem but I did not push it. The Prado or Hilux would be more suited to that sort of use. Overall I have found it to be a great car. Good for long trips, nice to drive, quiet and comfortable and surprisingly economical. Good luck with your search, I hope you find a good one.
    1 point
  23. Did you solve this problem? It most probably is the computer ECU. The early 2000 RAV4 automatics had a problem with the ECU that controls transmission. The ECU used non-lead solder as an environmental thing, but it is not as good in situations with vibration. There is a guy in Melbourne who will send you a rebuilt ECU and instructions and you send back your ECU after you fix it. ECUMAN.com.au. I did it and it worked fine.
    1 point
  24. Short answer, no. Unlike some overseas variants which are able to reflashed such as the Corolla XRS, Sportivo's aren't able to be reflashed or tuned. There a few known ECU's that work, you can use a Greddy V-Manage and E-Manage together which basically gives all of the options a standalone ECU will, albeit they're quite out dated. I personally ran a V-Manage for a few years before moving onto an Adaptronic E420D which is a lot newer and has all of the features plus a whole lot more over an E and V Manage combo. Other known ECU's that people use are the Apexi Power FC (2ZZ Celica unit) with an adaptor harness, which is proven and works but super out dated even compared to a Greddy Combo. AEM, Link, Haltech and Adaptronic all work after a working out the wiring as a standalone ECU. The Adaptronic I'm running is wired in as a piggyback unit so I still retain the stock ECU and have all my accessories and cluster working with no issues albeit, the temperature gauge is off which a fix has since being found by my mate who tuned my car and I have a check engine light due to the fact I'm running a different O2 and Lamda setup so the stock ECU does this as it can't read that sensor anymore. Another benefit of this unit is that I no longer need the MAF sensor as I'm running a MAP sensor now which is nice bonus for running less restrictive intake setups. If you're really keen on going down the route of tuning a 2ZZ, it's best you search the web for these units and choose which one fits your intended build outcome in terms of tunability, pricing etc. Best of luck.
    1 point
  25. Let me know man and i'll see what i can do for you. I have a few contacts. Anything you need, even better pricing on oil. I can link you up with any burson store and give them a price for you, etc
    1 point
  26. Not much to add this time around, recently filled up with petrol after over a month of not having to given the lack of driving I do these days and the distance I go. Over the last few weeks or so it's been quite windy and we've also had rain here and there so I decided to give the car a maintenance wash. The car was covered a nice layer of dust and little bits of road grime here and there. It hasn't been this dusty in quite a while so I thought it would be good to see how well the snow foam removes the dust. Left the foam to sit for over 5 minutes to get the dust off and loosen the road grime. After washing it off I was pleasantly surprised to find that all the dust was gone and 90% of the road grime had gone. The HydrO2 coating still seems to be working quite well even after a month since it was applied making the dust and grime a lot easier to remove compared to previous years where I found the dust on uncoated painted quite annoying to remove. Car was all nice and clean again which proved to be pointless as the wind just put more dust and rubbish on the car but of course, it's supposed to rain either today or tomorrow. Oh well what can I do 😅 Really looking forward to having more freedom soon, really looking forward to taking the beast for some long drives to the twisties again. It's being a long time! Stay tuned.
    1 point
  27. I was waiting for Metal_Head to respond as he has direct experience with making recent exhaust changes. Suggest that you search the Forum for his posts. If you want your exhaust system to sound louder, can I suggest that you do a rear muffler delete. Good way to test this out before parting with $$$ at the exhaust shop, is to temporarily disconnect the rear mufflers. There are a few YouTube videos for the Aurion or Camry V6 [in the USA] that you can view beforehand to get some idea of what to expect. I would suggest leaving the resonator alone as its function is to reduce exhaust drone. Another suggestion is that if you proceed with the rear muffler delete is that you keep in storage the removed mufflers. This will be handy if you want to revert back particularly if you attract some unwanted Police attention and get given a defect notice or an invitation to go for a machinery inspection.
    1 point
  28. Deleting the resonator on a stock exhaust wont do much. I wouldnt fit a hot dog
    1 point
  29. Latest video by The Car Nut demonstrates why the oil change interval needs to be shorter. 5000 miles is equivalent to approx. 8000 kms. Interesting that this is a recent engine with port injection. Issue is further exacerbated by engine idling time so that hours of operation can be a more appropriate mearure than the convenient odometer reading. Certainly demonstrates the point that oil is cheap compared to expensive engine repairs or replacement.
    1 point
  30. Hahahaha Tony I love it! Despite the naming they use, they do have some great products like Wet Dreams, Happy Ending and I do enjoy their car washes and snow foams. But yes, it does make it awkward to tell people what you use to clean your car 😆
    1 point
  31. I must clarify. I was talking mainly about the older gen 4 cyl cars. These latest models have pretty impressive power figures, but they do lack the torque of the V6. Nevertheless, I would be happy with the 152 KW 2.5, but the older ones were pretty ordinary.
    1 point
  32. I sent the head to a local engineering workshop specialising in head reconditioning to be machined in case there was any warping. The threads in the block were repaired by Mobile Threadfix who came to my house to do the job. See my posting in a separate thread: https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/58786-2003-camry-acv36r-power-steering-pump/
    1 point
  33. I'm going to do just a pan drain when it's due. I also want to go back to the original type pan gasket as opposed to the crappy cork one that came with the "kit". I think using cork is a downgrade on the stock original item. I didn't really think about this at the time. I've aready purchased a Genuine Toyota pan gasket ( I even have the original stiil )and I will also consider putting the original strainer back in. Following my transmission service a while back, I peered inside it and found it to be perfectly clean, despite this, I went ahead and installed the aftermarket item. I bagged it up and stored it away for safe keeping and before putting it back I'll pass some ATF through it and see what comes out. If it's satisfactory, like I think it wil, I'll re use it. I think it's not necessary to replace unless the transmisson has had a hard life, neglected service with burnt fluid . Metallic particles will almost always end up on the pan magnet anyway right ?
    1 point
  34. Tony, have you tried to see if these work for the "famous ATM bolt" ?
    1 point
  35. That's what I suspected. Either way, it would make for a bit of entertainment peering inside the sump. Boys with their toys stuff hahaha..
    1 point
  36. Best thing to do is to use an OBDII scan tool to read the error codes. You mentioned a strong gas smell. Is the smell like rotten eggs i.e. hydrogen sulfide? https://mcspaddenautomotive.com/blog/3-reasons-why-your-car-smells-like-rotten-eggs I suspect that oil burning may have impacted the efficiency of the catalytic convertors. Please post the error codes and additional information about the engine oil being used and the oil change interval.
    1 point
  37. Wow ! What a stroke of luck ! Good for you mate. The new bush looks like an updated item as I suspected. The original black plastic must have been made of an ordinary plastic and I reckon Toyota's Kaizen doctrine is at work here with the new and improved "blue" bushing. I reckon it could be 3D printed if using a high quality plastic. Thanks for the pics.
    1 point
  38. Way i see it a catch can collects maybe 100ml between service ,if youve got a plate with a 7mm hole you still get a certain amount of hot raw abrasive carbon passing through a bit of misty oil collects that stopping it going back to the inlet ,Ive just done injectors no1 cacked itself, pulled the EGR off ,wiped a fine layer of collected carbon/oil mix ive got a plate no, catch can thats after 85k of driving do around 40k odd per year and if nothing at all it acts as a upper cyl lubricant so catch cans in my eyes are a waste of$$$$$$$$$
    1 point
  39. Hey TOCA, Some time ago I purchased this magazine as there wasn't many released featuring the Corolla Sportivo upon it's release in May 2003. This July 2003 issue of Motor Magazine has an article of an early model Corolla Sportivo going over pricing, features, pro & cons along with comparing it to it's rivals of the time etc. These were the best scans I got with my scanner so some of the final works may be missing or partially cut off but I hope you get the idea. The article, like most about the car are quite harsh in regards to the power delivery and handling, which I do agree with some of it, mostly the handling side. Enjoy!
    1 point
  40. U660E AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID ADJUSTMENT.doc Just as a follow up, waiting for warmer weather before doing a precise fluid level check. For reference purposes, I uploaded the Toyota Service Bulletin for adding the extra 200ml back in September 2019.
    1 point
  41. I previously researched about removing the lower oil pan but lost interest after finding out that RTV gasket is used and you would need to wait a few hours upon reassembly for it it to cure. Following article about a teardown of the 2GR-FE engine contains a photo with the lower oil pan removed and the exhaust has also been removed. http://carspecmn.com/teardown-and-building-of-a-toyota-and-lexus-3-5-liter-2gr-fe-v6-in-depth-picture-guide/
    1 point
  42. Yep. I ordered a White set and will switch over to it. I then might do the LED swap to the 465nm blue LEDs I’m using for the rest of the car.
    1 point
  43. I think the white would better complement the cluster lighting. It's really hard to get the correct shade of blue it seems. I recently found pleasure using the aliexpress site for other things non automotive and have found it to be amazing. The array of goods is staggering. I've never been a proponent of made in China stuff, due to the cheap and nasty knock off practice they've immersed themselves in, but I have to say, if you look hard enough, there are plenty of decent quality things for sale through that platform. Those switches look pretty decent I must say and the price for a set of 4 is outstanding.
    1 point
  44. A morning pic of the Ice Blue - I think I will get the white versions and sell these on. As for the boot… Yes I have to do something with it. Below is my commuter hatch. The standard factory light was on the right side. Much like the Aurion it only puts out whatever light a T10 bulb can muster. I also found the subwoofer blocked a lot of light. The upgrade consists of LEF panel version of the light fittings, and an additional one fitted in the mirrored location on the left. These are the light units. They clip into a 3mm plastic trim but there is no reasons why the can’t be mounted in the carpet on the sides of the boot using some ABS sheet to sandwich. I will have to see if there is an area with enough back-space for the assemblies.
    1 point
  45. I'm sure they will know what to do and should not charge for this. If they do we can shame them here for you.
    1 point
  46. Welcome Vix, As all above have answered most of your questions all I can say is I have found loads of regular quality Oil and filter changes makes the world of difference to the feel and joy of our beauties, "Faye" our Presara is always a pleasure to slide behind the wheel and just cruise quiet and smooth enjoying our music in the sunshine, sadly lately it is up and down the driveway with the rare trip to the supermarket for food and essentials. But the dream of soon the day will come we can do a long haul road trip keeps me motivated to keep it in perfect condition. One thing I would suggest is not only concentrate on the engine and transmission but remember to give the interior love as well, I enjoy giving those lovely leather seats a good clean and condition and the dash etc as well. Enjoy the Prodigy and enjoy the forum as you can see a wealth of knowledge here and send us a few Pic's of your beauty. KAA
    1 point
  47. Started the Aurion this morning and heard a grinding noise similar to this YouTube video. Bad Water Pump Bearing Noise - Bing video Investigated and loosened the serpentine belt tensioner hoping that it was one of the idler pulleys rather than the water pump. There was movement on the water pump pulley so the bearing is on the way out. Odometer reading is 226,005kms. Ordered a replacement water pump and gasket on eBay so hopefully will arrive by next Friday. Not exactly happy as planned road trip will have to be deferred plus not a straight forward task. In hindsight, I should have had the part on hand.
    1 point
  48. I've just put 19 x 8's on my Presara. Had to get specific 'Off-set' to keep the tyre inside the rim as required in W.A. Very little choice in this size though. Most are 19 x 8.5's. They look great and give a much better road feel and sharper handling. Alan
    1 point
  49. I had engine light and vsc and traction control lights on for a broken wire for the intake flap that opens up the second path into the airbox. I think the same lights come on for a host of issues, many of which have no relationship to traction control or vsc.
    1 point




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