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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/30/2021 in Posts

  1. Thought I'd post up my aurion & will post pics/info as I can, cheers. Latest things done was pedders springs, & Monroe struts along with Nissan pathfinder 18" wheels that went on with slight modification & new wheel nuts. Carbon 18% tint all round. Got a hold of zr6 leather seats & door cards, along with presara woodgrain steering wheel & center console. Silver door/dash spears painted gunmetal Grey "evoke". Rear section of exhaust was replaced with redback twin resonators & 2" pipe, and middle factory resonator was deleted.
    2 points
  2. The ability to quickly disable the TC was removed by Toyota, to prevent fully sick hectic uleh's unleashing the full 200kw of savagery on the poor innocent bitumen.
    2 points
  3. Problem Solved I checked and cleaned the PCV valve with TB cleaner and ensured it was working correctly before installing it back into the valve cover. Next I checked the inlet manifold vacuum and found it to be 17 in Hg on a cold start, rising steadily to 22 in Hg as the engine reached operation temperature. This is in accordance with the data published in the Haynes workshop manual. Finally it was time to check to IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. Luckily it could be removed from the car without again removing the throttle body. It was full of black gunk which I removed with lots of TB cleaner and a small brush. I then removed the electric actuator from the IAC to check and ensure that the valve could move freely on its shaft. IAC Valve Body and Actuator After reassembly I installed the IAC valve on the TB in the car and plugged in the electrical connector. Upon starting the engine the idle revs went to 1000 RPM and then steadily dropped to around 650 RPM. Joy! Did some extensive test driving and stopping to check idle, but its perfect. So to sum up, happy camper, after Camry being off the road for 2 months.
    2 points
  4. This issue relates to my 493,000 km series 20 V6 Camry however I am sure it may apply to any similar engine. I got a low oil pressure warning light on the car and went through the following steps. I first (of course) checked the oil level and it was correct. The warning light would only come on after about 5 to 10 minutes. I thought perhaps that the oil pressure sensor might be faulty as perhaps it was the original one and maybe just worn out. Car is 20 years old. That job turned out to be much longer than I thought. I needed a 24 mm deep sock which I did not have. I purchased the socket and also a new oil pressure sensor. When I went to remove the old one I could not get the socket to fit on. Turned out the socket was a little rounded on the nut and also turned out to be 27mm. To make sure I got one that fitted I purchased a 25 26 and 27mm. The alternator belt really gets in the way so I loosened it up to get the belt off which takes a little time but makes access to the oil sensor so much easier. So new sensor in and start car and same thing again. Strike 2. So the next step was to check the sump oil pick. I removed the steel lower oil sump and was amazed with what I found. I have owned this car for a long time and have either changed the oil myself or have had it done at other services or repairs. Anyway there was more crud in there that I would have thought. The screen of the oil pick up tube was 90% blocked with crud. i do not know how any oil was being sucked up by the oil pump. It took me ages to clean both the lower steel pan and the underside of the upper alloy part. The oil pick up screen was easy using a pick took. Put it all back together using permatex silicone to seal. I then filled it with brand new cheap mineral oil (and new oil filter) and 300ml Liquid Moly engine clean. Ran the engine for 15 minutes as per the instructions. The oil warning is not coming up now so I am sure it was the oil pick up blocked by crud. I( am now going to drain the mineral oil and fill my shiny clean sump with new Synthetic oil and a new K&N oil filter. I like the nut fitted to the top of Kn. Makes it so easy to get off. I have only just purchased my Aurion and so the first thing I am going to do is pull the sump off that to check the oil pick up and give it all a good clean. Took some photos and will post up later.
    2 points
  5. Hi guys iโ€™ve been lucky enough to get myself a 2016 toyota aurion sportivo as a p plater in SA. Iโ€™ve always read through this forum since my ownership but only decided to join now. I am abit late but who cares, up the aurion! The mods i have done to my car are as follows: - 18x8.5 +35 aftermarket avid av32 wheels in gloss black (i should have bought real wheels but i was in a rush) - cheap tires size 245/40/r18 - gkteck extended lug nuts - bc racing br series coilovers - rolled rear guards - pedders camber pins - tailight & reflectors vinyl tint (light smoke) - gloss black ebay rear window spoiler - custom slim plates with glass cover No interior mods because i dont think it needs any. As of now i have not seen any gsv50 aurions done as clean as this one in SA. I am planning also planning to put an ultra racing rear sway bar and get a custom axle-back exhaust installed by a shop in the future. Here are some unprofessional photos of my dirty car.๐Ÿ’ฏ
    2 points
  6. Haha, told ya. Glad it worked out mate, my pleasure
    2 points
  7. It's a pretty simple job. You just have to remove a screw or two and pull the hose off the filler neck of the radiator and lift it out. Does it look like this ? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/133109903806?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D232852%26meid%3D4171b81666644c9d9981c2387db95400%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D230964413991%26itm%3D133109903806%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseWithPLXWeb&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A1331099038064171b81666644c9d9981c2387db95400|enc%3AAQAGAAACIOFhmHQMVufFUFpf767UaDjWu4vFwO0q97C2E69xEjuobU1UNCHvA%2BMNmwEbty8wlDK3U%2FUpAxvEvEKHYkFavqT9KI7r%2BNtzh4rdqTfDy5zlS53ob3UG6DJ8tCIAZO6PYy2w2MNfu73e2LEO56gQmfj6lDBoBcbAKBkQY4RolkJr7rNZ9%2Bw775BNrDIJWD34ClJ0lqQC%2FLBtcu9arZ1HRBcQhauqFT4yjmNdB5y7%2FrciYMhewBjACBTakqjmswpk7AaA%2FKNqeKo%2FSxKAsD5aBhp0sB6mxdbCvcbt%2BvCObPE1nGpa3hKAatjuD8Lym6ZoGdtDMnD6%2Bdy3NViutMyCjpjbij9i7yAlB3I1mG44HEJu4JHGBoelG2p31H5etmexd%2BuAlc9yhnT1IhrSBby%2FsYkVnG3d0az5tAqdkCOEIQHYRrvGfMLisPMBY5POISqenJ9SBASsbsl1mV4xKDfQVzqEbJrLHbZHkjLfiIg2G4E77tfocaqYFUOjiHcJ7H%2Fl0sASJwZJPn%2BlP4kmT%2BCIxb7alT4aepNakn0rmFiuFxu2LDxi7CVdF79nyppSjXdYIYpoy89413viNQAAQCHEfFtwtY5xeR1b7CTtzOTtpNNKeXtSbynq6cxAhb0AIGLTLGYpSbLzOuWD1tb2qtX0Rsf6j24lHBtcTyvR8ndyilLrBEZU1Htlo9vi7BPV49qvtroVdFU33tRh%2FySjfqswKzQ%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675
    2 points
  8. Thought I would give an update on the leaking head gasket and power steering pump since its been a while since my last post. I managed to get the pump out and it was covered in oil and caked on crap. Thinking I had a leaking pump I took it to a specialist in Slacks Creek to see if I could buy a seal kit for it. The owner of the business (Australian CV Joints & Power Steering) advised that a timing case leak was the more likely source of the oil. They tested my pump, no charge, and found it was perfectly OK, saving me time and money. After a break of a few weeks I decided to get back to the Camry and remove the head but first had to overcome the problem of removing the crankshaft pulley bolt. After many failed attempts I finally got it off using the starter-motor method. Crankshaft pulley bolt held firm with breaker bar and axle stand before hitting the starter. When removing the head, 3 head bolts on the inlet side came out real easy, whereas the others all required a long breaker bar to get them out. This confirmed what so many other postings and YouTube videos had warned about, the threads were stripped. I had the head planed and arranged for Mobile Threadfix to come and put some Helicoil inserts in the block. Block ready for Helicoil inserts Head after being planed Yesterday the head went back on with new gasket and new bolts and was correctly tensioned. Also installed the camshafts and timing chain. Today installed new seal in timing cover for crankshaft pully and reinstalled the timing chain cover (tricky business). Tomorrow I will start reinstalling the power steering pump, water pump, alternator, etc. The end is in sight.
    2 points
  9. Fitted blue 31mm led in dome, & tapped into the dome light's brown & white wires behind the glove box for the footwells. (diagram courtesy of another thread)
    2 points
  10. After reading this I went out and dusted off our Aurion, Gave it a kiss and raised my hands to the sky and said TY Keep Safe KAA https://www.abc.net.au/news/2021-02-05/hyundai-tucson-recalled-over-risk-of-engine-fire/13124634
    1 point
  11. Owned a 2007 Sonata NF 2.4 litre for almost 10 years and nearly 190.000km, the most trouble free car I've ever had in my life. Great build quality and unbelievably reliable. Until one day when my wife heard a loud bang while driving it and then the car suddenly lost power, then the engine started to sound like it spat a rod or something, sounding worse than any 1950 unmaintained diesel tractor started on a -25 degrees Celsius Christmas day :)) She managed to somehow drive it home and few days later the thing went to the wreckers (the car, not my lovely better half!), the engine was done, rebuilding it would cost more than the car's value at the time and selling it as parts would have taken years. It kind of started to give some early signs of failures around 160k mark with pinging / knocking some times and the oil level would drop towards min mark on the dipstick after 6-7000k. Lessons learned? - Don't put 91 unleaded in that engine, should have used 95 all along. - Don't trust the stealership for servicing, they'd put whatever crappy drum mineral oil they had in stock every 15k kms oil change, as per the service schedule. At the 135k service the dipstick already had some dark brown varnish on it where the min/max marks were. The car should have been services every 10k max with quality full synthetic. The car could have easily lasted past 300k mark if I had these 2 covered, but I left it to the pros at the time and it showed. Blessing in disguise, my wife now drives the 2013 Aurion we bought after the Sonata went, better car overall, but we still remember how well built the Sonata was and the interior finishing quality, well above Camry/Aurion. Even since I've decided I won't trust the monkeys at the stealerships and their extended service schedules which will only set your car up for failure. I'll be doing my own oil/filter changes at shorter intervals for as long as I'll be able to do so.
    1 point
  12. Great result Paul. Nice DIY work and thanks for updating us.
    1 point
  13. Good to know that you were on the right track. I had the exact opposite issue with the IAC valve on my 1998 Camry. It would not idle without accelerator and this was after running very nicely for that Sunday drive. In 10+ years of ownership and about 150,000 kms, I had never known to clean the throttle body and IAC valve. A few Google searches got me on the right track and now I clean the throttle body and IAC valve regularly on my current vehicles.
    1 point
  14. That is 2 experienced guys with teamwork moving along to try and get close to the 15 minute mark. They must have done lots of dashboard replacements to know exactly what needed to be done without any reference to instructions. I am guessing that the fellow sitting down is the dealership's master technician. All is well until something goes wrong.
    1 point
  15. Well done on getting the dash replacement, we all live and learn about things we should have done mate. At least once it is done grab a decent dash mat or as I do make sure and keep the dash well protected with quality interior cleaner/protectant. I am sure once it is done and all back to looking good again the joy of driving our beauties will return because there is nothing more annoying than staring at a crappy dash mate. KAA
    1 point
  16. Have been booked in to have dash replaced, for what must be one of the last ones under goodwill warranty. Thank you Toyota ๐Ÿ‘ Spent around an hour tidying up all my accessory wiring & preparing the dash for removal, leaving in speedo so I can drive in the meantime. In hindsight I should've just thrown a dashmat on top of it ๐Ÿ˜‚
    1 point
  17. After 4 months wait and 3 weeks undertaking a few mods. I am now the proud owner of my 1st ever Toyota. I never considered a Hybrid until I started researching the market. If we like it or not hybrid/electric vehicles are here to stay and car buyers will have to get used to it. In my opinion the current Rav4 is an unbeatable package, if you can wait for it to come. However, considering they are so popular and common on the road I made some cosmetic changes to make it stand out a bit. Thanks must go to the local dealer I purchased it from as all this was done before it went through pre delivery, and even before I paid for it. A few times I thought, why am I doing this to a brand new car, but in the end I am happy with how it looks. Just off the ship Off to the panel shop That's better That's a wrap Add some tint Black out the badges Add some chrome Time to come home "Oh what a feeling"
    1 point
  18. Toyota reliability is a known factor for the Aurion. What you are really going to be testing is how well the vehicle has been serviced and maintained. Remember your vehicle is 12 yrs old and some parts may unexpectedly require replacement. This happened to me recently when the water pump started making noises one Saturday morning just before I was going to book accommodation for the following week. Hopefully, all goes well for you and there are no mishaps on your trip.
    1 point
  19. It all started with me begging for a free dashmat since they couldn't do the dash, then to hear from them a couple months later with this news, I am over the moon ๐ŸŽ‰..... And at the same time not looking forward to removing wires that i have ran thru the dash.... Tweeters, dash cam, footwell lights, hud, reverse cam, power seats etc etc.... Jesus ๐Ÿคช๐Ÿ˜ณ
    1 point
  20. Welcome ๐Ÿ‘ Ive been doing bits here & there on my '11 aurion, here's a link to my thread for ideas Regarding mods, well it all comes down to each individual taste but this would be my order... 1. Window tint 18% (I see yours is done already) 2. Head unit. Checkout the jvc & Kenwood range as they usually have built in programmable steering wheel controls which allows simple connection via 2 wires, look for the "direct oem steering" symbol on the box/description 3. Lowered suspension. Dropping the height of car by 30-50mm will make it much more appealing to look at than any bodykit or rims on their own. And the upside to that is a massive difference in the way the car handles. I recently fitted new springs & struts and it looks & handles great, but if I had to do it again I would go the bc racing coilover kit, which u can find on ebay. This will allow fine tuning of comfort & ride height and will only end up being slightly more expensive than buying parts separate. The other option is fitting the pedders springs on the factory struts along with camber bolts to adjust back to spec, but the ride will be rough as hell. 3. Rims...... If we are talking about factory rims.... 2006+ Kluger, chr, camry will bolt straight on due to them using the same shank wheel nuts. Aftermarket there will be plenty choices, but I've never looked into sorry. 18s for compromise between comfort looks, and 19s for looks. 20s won't have much Tyre on them so will be prone to damage on our roads. The rest of the stuff like exhaust, lighting, body kits comes down to personal preference & there should be plenty reading ahead for you on this site ๐Ÿ˜›
    1 point
  21. After being told 2 months ago there's no stock left to replace the dash in the last of the remaining 40series I received a very pleasant call today ๐Ÿ˜ Toyota will manufacture a new dash using materials from "a later series aurion", so I'm booked in for the end of the month ๐ŸŽ‰๐ŸŽ‰๐ŸŽ‰ I do have a question though, how much is actually removed and replaced? I ask because I hav a few random wires scattered around at the bottom, underneath the dash for footwell lights/dash cam etc etc, so if they have to be removed then I'd rather do these myself in preparation
    1 point
  22. Done and done. Thanks Tony, It was a piece o' pss. โ˜บ๏ธ
    1 point
  23. Nah mate I got it sorted after changing the fuel filter. Starts up in a second now. I changed the cabin filter too to get rid of that gas smell I was mentioning earlier but the smell still comes up time to time when Iโ€™m driving hard. Look how filthy the cabin filter was
    1 point
  24. 5/7 topic, much information, very detail, will read again. Seriously, you need to work on your posting skills.
    1 point
  25. Are you sure there isn't one too many zeros there? A million k in 5 years (because no-one drove anywhere last year) is 200,000k a year, 10 times what the average person probably does. And if it is true, no offence but no-one in their right mind would buy a million-k car with no service history (especially not a late-model one).
    1 point
  26. Hopefully the inspection uncovers something minor that can be adjusted out otherwise It would be a dereliction of duty on behalf of the dealer who sold you the car without it having gone through a comprehensive check and road test. What were they thinking ? Don't despair though, The Hilux is a great car. You just copped some very rare bad luck it seems but I'm sure whatever it is can be sorted under your warranty. For me personally I would've purchased an auto if it were a V6 or turbo diesel but not the 4cyl variant. Look forward to your update.
    1 point
  27. Let me guess. It's a used car dealer and not a Toyota dealership. I would advise then to take it to a Toyota dealership, have them diagnose the issue, repair it, then send the bill to the yard you bought the car from. Fair Trading have you covered too so don't worry. What you've described is not normal and there is definitely something wrong there. Either a case of incompetence on the dealer's behalf or plain sherk of responsibility. Don't let them get away with it. Please keep us informed.
    1 point
  28. Haha, A friend of mine went over there for a holiday and was astounded how backward people are. Servicing aside, American cars are garbage anyway, so I'm not surprised they way they fall apart.
    1 point
  29. Here's another funny one
    1 point
  30. That's a good message he sends in that video. Don't go so much by the Kays, even if the chosen interval is 5K, look at the oil condition and don't wait for the kays to reach the interval as there is an evolving situation already when the oil has turned dark and looks burned. The problem here with most who go with the log book service can be out of pure ignorance. I bet if they watched a few videos on sludged up engines and join a fine forum like this, they would quickly know the right way to go about it.
    1 point
  31. I have most likely viewed this YouTube video a few times . Even though the presenter [love his accent] is talking about Toyota vehicles with different engines and higher mileage, message is clear to me to check the condition/colour of the oil and not wait for 5000 miles/8000kms oil change interval. If you want the engine to last, then do frequent oil changes. As the engine ages, most likely it is going to require a shorter oil change interval. Even though times have changed, old school approach of 5000 km oil change interval still has merit.
    1 point
  32. Looking at the rear screen, it's at top left corner, just a small section enough to make your day Yep I noticed the other day the DR750XPlus model & had a quick squiz, looks impressive but not the price @ $600 for 2CH kit. Better get when on special like EOFY ๐Ÿคจ Ahh, that explains it, they're brilliant, pardon the pun ๐Ÿ˜† My Aurion also has the stock LED's & I'm converted, still a Merc rocks up & suddenly it's almost daylight . . .
    1 point
  33. Absolute NO. This will cost you big Pounds. Have you used this Link assuming your vehicle is registered in the UK? https://www.gov.uk/get-vehicle-information-from-dvla Seeing that I love a good conspiracy theory, guess this is one way to get older vehicles off the road. Maybe the UK Govt would like you to buy an Electric Vehicle. If you want to be stubborn or hard headed, go and get a newer ICE vehicle. Just in case you think that I might be having a go at you, the girlfriend had been telling me that I was hard-headed for 4 years before I agreed with her. ๐Ÿ˜‡
    1 point
  34. Yeah I think its to do with Blackvue using a coaxial cable for the rear cam rather than a traditional power/signal cable as Viofo does i uploaded a clip from my drive home, i think up close detail is pretty good but its just fast moving objects where detail suffers a bit. But with that being said, I do believe the 1080p 60fps model has the edge over the 4K version in terms of low light detail
    1 point
  35. I wouldn't be surprised if they own the company that makes the coolant.
    1 point
  36. Howdy Gents Thought I'd start this thread for those of us are who like to try various detailing products and getting them at the right price. Autobarn are currently having a sale on the Turtle Wax Hybrid Pro Series products if anyone is interested. These all get my tick of approval, so if you are a hobbyist or enthusiast with some detailing knowledge, I wouldn't hesitate in having these in my kit. There are plenty of youtube videos highlighting the virtues of Turtle Wax products so feel free to type search and enjoy. https://www.autobarn.com.au/ab/catalogue#view=catalogue2&saleId=39684&page=1 Page 1 of catalogue. Just hover over each individual product for more information. Substantial savings over regular retail pricing. Cheers
    1 point
  37. Yep they come with a hardwire kit, parking mode power comes from the main vehicle battery and you can change the voltage/time settings from within the blackvue app. There is no separate "box" like say with the Viofo hardwire kit which you've then got to climb under the dash to adjust if you ever want to change the settings. You can also connect the X series cameras battery wire to a standalone battery (Cellink Neo etc) as well if you don't want to use the main vehicle battery for parking mode.
    1 point
  38. Just a quick story. I had my sister in law in our Aurion one time and she knows absolutely nothing about cars let alone detailing and it happened to be raining. As we're driving along she realised that I wasn't using the wipers and was totally mezmerised by the bead show on the windscreen. She said, wow, look at that ! How do you make the rain bead away like that ? I told her that it was "magic" ๐Ÿ˜ Then went on to explain the process. She was in total awe.
    1 point
  39. Yes that sounds like LOCKDOWN FEVER, LOL. Not sure if they have a cure yet but I bet many are working on them KAA
    1 point
  40. DR750X-2CH, love it. Upgraded from a Viofo A129 which gave me nothing but trouble and majorly interfered with my FM reception. Video quality is great and have no trouble making out license plates with the 60fps. Also the usual cloud functionality is good. Installation is pretty straightforward as well. They are expensive but its definitely a quality unit. Free shipping from Blackvue ๐Ÿ™‚ Also helps that the 750X and 900X have voltage monitoring built in, don't need a power magic pro to keep it from flattening your battery
    1 point
  41. Really depends on whether it is DC (battery voltage) or inverted AC. If it is truly meant to be an emergency mains supply in Japan then it would have to be 100V inverted AC, which would then correspond to 15A (which is still a sizeable amount of current). I think Toyota's hybrid batteries tend to be around 250V which would mean only 6A, but 250V DC will fry just about anything you would normally plug in to a DC source (normal cars are only 12V).
    1 point
  42. Japan uses the same NEMA 1 socket/plug as the USA does, 150V seems a bit high for Japan though (their domestic supply is 100-120V).
    1 point
  43. I know that some ceramic coatings don't play nice on glass and to be honest I am starting to think that it is a waste of time. I'd really only use it on the paint and plastics and just do the glass with Rain-X or your favourite spray sealant. You mentioned that the small bead stick and move until they get bigger clearly demonstrates the lack of slickness. The Rain -X will bead even the tiniest bead. It will surprise you how slick it is. You'll have to machine polish the glass again to remove the ceramic coating and then give it a good wipe with isopropyl alcohol before application. I lay down two foundation layers of Rain-X "Water Repellent" followed by one or two coats of the "2 in 1 Glass Cleaner + Repellent". The best glass coating I reckon and you don't have to buy those fancy ceramic products.
    1 point
  44. When I applied following a video I found after I cleaned the windscreen (apply 1 coat, wipe off with separate towel, apply a 2nd coat after 30 minutes, wipe off with a separate towel again) I found that it honestly lasted me almost a year in all honesty. My car is parked outside all the time but this was when I was parking in a covered car park while I worked so I think it helped especially in the hotter months. I'm due to do it again but I have a heap of nasty water marks on the windows I need to remove first.
    1 point
  45. It's not as bad as it looks actually. It is a small production, but if you follow the procedure you'll have no problem. Just do your preparation, get your parts in order and wait for a nice sunny day and go for it. Have a read of my Transmission service thread if you need help.
    1 point
  46. Latest AutoBarn catalogue has some worthwhile discounted oil specials. Quite tempted by this 75% discount at $20 https://www.autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Brands/Castrol/EDGE-0W-40-5-Litre/p/OA03477?mkt_tok=NzY4LVhWRi01NTAAAAF9_i-nhyl0ZF14mueNiSkNueH4VhiYmVPZjMYEyhItnqWyiFBvw9aWNiFWo8IeXFr9O8Zj91phACTg_2HM_yqdFVAWJIfg0VaSQNja
    1 point
  47. Mate, that looks great to be completely honest. It has a nice factory look too. Offset looks perfect. Good job
    1 point
  48. Go by the generation, not the year. That way you are more likely to avoid issues where one market got a generation a year earlier or later than another (and also remember that the US uses Model Year, which is usually a year later than Build Date, ie what an American would call an '03 car would have gone on sale in the middle of '02)
    1 point
  49. I have done it on a 2012 model and it was very easy even though it appeared difficult in examples shown on youtube and toyota nation. I recommend researching these as much as you can.. One tip ... cover any surface that may get scratched especially the glossy finish on the console. I installed a unit from Joying. It fits perfectly and looks like factory fit. If not included in your kit i recommend getting the correct antenna adapter to utilise the built in antenna system and booster. Without it reception will be poor. When fitted the reception strength is far better than the factory toyota unit... which surprised me. https://www.google.com.au/search?q=toyota+antenna+adapter&client=firefox-b-ab&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiE8fGX_avUAhXRNpQKHfkJBmwQsAQIag&biw=1366&bih=645 Do not use the cheap after market antenna boosters... junk and not needed. I cannot fault the Joying unit. It performs better than expected, is stable and has no lag. We purchased a new aurion as a second car and regrettably opted for their upgraded jbl nav/audio system which was more than twice the price of the Kluger Joying unit which outperforms and has heaps more capabilities and features. Also with the android based after market units you can use one of the many free android nav programs which include good maps with free updates. I have 3 installed in my Joying unit and you can allocate one to be the default nav program to be activated by the nav button. The unit came with all the correct connectors except for the antenna one mentioned above. The steering wheel buttons are customisable within the units settings panel to react as before or to any settings you like. I did make a couple of enquiries with Joying when I was installing and their response time and the advice given was perfect. Be careful with what unit you choose... some of the chinese units are excellent and well made.... but there are some poor ones as well.
    1 point
  50. The Buy and Sell Rules have been updated to allow for the following: Any member may now sell an item within the for sale section, regardless of time as a member or post count. Any member may now sell a private vehicle within the Toyota's For Sale section, regardless of time as a member or post count. Traders are reminded to follow the correct channels listed above. These rules are subject to change at any time without notice.
    1 point




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