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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/24/2011 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I bought my aurion in 2015 brand new. Been a top car. I wanted a little more performance out of it. I have a K&N filter and also just did the exhaust collector mod. The standard pipe squishes together and very restrictive right where you want it to flow. We moved the flex pipe further back and had two pipes into a larger collector Professional workshop did it and its a top quality job. Car goes a fair bit better. 1st gear it just spins the tyres (235 tyres on 17 inch wheels). Massive axle tramp. Its definately making more torque and power. It just feels more urgent, like your driving downhill all the time. Might even get fuel efficiency gains Best thing is it sounds completely stock. I will try attach pictures.
  2. 4 points
    My baby has arrived. Great fun to drive. Very happy with my purchase. <3
  3. 4 points
    Picked up the red devil haha. So happy - pretty nervous on the short drive home. Turned a few heads. Just waiting on side garnishes which they said were on back order (e.g someone forgot)...looks ok without them. So smooth and zippy.
  4. 4 points
    It finally happened!!!!! Goodbye Minibeast, Hello Diamond!! 😍
  5. 4 points
    I got quoted just under $1000 for the black wheels which is a lot but just couldn't say no.
  6. 4 points
    Got to test drive again, but on my own, for about 90 mins today. I rang and said you've already sold me one but I'd really like another drive. They said all good, come in. Then when I went in the sales manager said do you mind taking it by yourself, we're short-staffed. Take it for as long as you want, just return by 5pm. BONUS!!!! 👍🏻👍🏻 Was enough time to really test a range of things that the regular half hour with salesman usually isn't. Merging speed/power (plenty), back seat room (fine if not behind me), comfort of driver's seat (really good lumbar support), braking (stops on a dime), voice control for phone calls (needs work), Bluetooth connection with my iphone (music doesn't go very loud), all round vision (back and sides for me were fine, front with mirror a little restricted, but I got used to it), cruise control (will need to get used to stalk instead of steering wheel control, and I think the lowest speed might be 45kph), LDA (love when it turns the wheel to put you back on track). I even wondered about the size difference in comparison to my current car. It's a bit taller, wider and longer. And it has better clearance for driveways. It dwarves my car slightly. I do like the driving seat height which is higher. And I checked that it definitely had artist and song with music through Bluetooth. Still in love!
  7. 3 points
    Hey TOCA, This has previously been discussed a long time ago about porting the intake manifold on the 2ZZ (specifically the Sportivo manifold as it can be split into 2 pieces). Well, I’m writing this as a review of a ported intake manifold after recently purchasing and installing one. Many people may think that porting the manifold is a waste of time and that you might as well go down the route of turbo or supercharging, or to go for an aftermarket manifold such as the DDP manifold. This is not to cause controversy by any means but is to simply get the information out there for more people to develop their N/A 2ZZ’s to the very best. This what is done to the manifold in regards to porting. The runners are left as is, this is specifically within the plenum and prior to the runners that are cleaned up and ported. I know this might deter people into thinking ‘it’s not a fully ported manifold’, but please keep reading through. The manifold runners are removed and the plenum section is cut open to begin the work. Within the plenum section of stock 2 piece manifold, you will see 2 pillars that are within the manifold that affect air flow to each runner. These are cut out and the remaining metal ground down to reduce any flow interruption into the runners. On top of the plenum, you will see velocity stacks at the of the runners. From Toyota, the casting is poorly completed, Leaving what resembles slanted donuts throughout various manifolds. These are ground down and evened out to increase flow. Comparisons between a stock intake manifold and a port manifold. The combination of the improved velocity stacks and the removal of the pillars is what is completed in terms of the porting on my particular manifold. Now, having this done I can provide what to expect with this style of ported manifold. Once installed, I started the car and checked for any strange noises, leaks etc. With no issues, I let the car warm up and took it for a spin. The first impression was that down low is almost the same as before, I did notice that the response had increased nicely and the revs climb a lot smoother and quicker than before. I decided to do a quick pull from 1st and another rolling in 2nd to get an idea of the gains. Both pulls went to the start of 3rd so within the speed limit. In first gear you notice there is no dip whatsoever in power, it’s smooth all the way until fuel cut and the revs climb a lot faster than before. Even in between gear changes, there doesn’t seem to be the slow rev climb back to fuel cut now. It continues to remain smooth. Another major change noticed was how loud the intake noise became. The crossover into lift is quite loud and very pronounced and at roughly 7000 and beyond it has a nice growl resonating through the intake, currently a 2.75” intake. For comparison's sake to make a little more sense, the sensational increase of power between a short ram intake or stock air box compared to a cold air intake. It’s that gain, on top if that makes sense. As it is a noticeable by the pants gain, it would definitely be evident on a dyno. Overall, I’m super happy with the ported manifold. For those that don’t want to read the whole thing and want a TLDR; installed ported manifold, increased response, increased torque and power, smoother power band, fast rev climb, loud intake sound. You may as well read the the whole review though to get a better understanding of what to expect if you’re really considering going towards porting. My mods are linked in my signature for those wondering what I have done to my car. If anyone is serious and genuinely interested in getting a ported manifold done, please send me a message and I can provide further details into getting this done. Thanks for reading! Sorry for the bold font (can't change it for some reason 🤔)
  8. 3 points
  9. 3 points
    UPDATE!! New tvs 1900 supercharger has been installed for almost a week now just havent had time to post it up. Let me say it was not an easy job at all and alot there is a fair bit of modification required as the supercharger hits the bonnet just slightly. The hardest bit of the whole job was to get the manifold off the original supercharger once manifold was off the car. It is held down with allen screws that are very tight and the moment u try to put any kind of allen key on them it just threads the heads. Had to end up drilling them out which took hours to try and not damage the manifold because the angle of which you habe to sit the drill to try and cut away at the screws is just a painnn. Bonnet had to be cut throttle body adaptor on the s/c had to be fliped intake modified and a whole bunch of hoses replaced for longer one. Dont get me wrong the car feels good now some more power there but without a tune yet the car i feel just wants to detune its self. I also ended up installing a boost gauge which im happy about i managed to drill a boost tap into the manifold while it was off the car so wen im pushing it foot to floor gauge is ready 10psi thats with a 90mm pulley i also have an 80mm pulley but will prob install it wen i go to tune it. This was all done at my place mechanic came past and i was helping him with what i could. The new s/c was powder coated black colour i ended up paying some high temp spray paint and sprayed it red its abit patchy now coz some of the paint got scratched off but ill touch it up. surprisingly the colour is very very close to orignal. I also got my hands on an original trd s/c decal wasnt cheap!!! But atleast it will handle the heat.
  10. 3 points
    Here's a console caddy I purchased of ebay that arrived today and is now in my console Bought from the same vendor that supplied the Gate slot kit so all matches Link for any of you that may be interested
  11. 3 points
    Did you see Justin? Our ship has left Japan, and is due to arrive at Brisbane on the 1st July. EXCITING!!!
  12. 3 points
  13. 3 points
    As I promised. I wrapped the dash in 3M 1080 Carbon Wrap.
  14. 3 points
    Yay Justin. Finally! The msg I got from Toyota Australia rep, and it's on my voice mail, is that my car is at the dealers, having tinting, etc. done. Not what tracking says though. I'll go with tracking and be surprised if I get an early call.
  15. 3 points
    Hi There - Been reading this C-HR forum a while and thought I might hop in At the risk of your raising you ire - I'm afraid I have mine - Had it delivered last Friday (took the day off) and I love it - Was worried about such a small motor - but seems not to present a problem as it handles the Dandenongs with ease My wait was 9 weeks - I didn't know about this track system either. But once the estimated time drew near and I asked dealer if still on track - I was told had missed the boat - They gave me this though, from their sap system, and I was able to track the Vessel on its long voyage around Australia (stopping all stations) unloading vehicles I sympathize with you all, The long wait is soul wrenching - It will be over soon We are pretty lucky here. Europe - Who get theirs form the Toyota Plant in Turkey - Some of them have been waiting 6 months
  16. 3 points
    Yeah... The radar cruise control is awesome. I have even used the stop/start function of it in peak hour and it works like a charm. Brings the car to a complete stop and a quick tap on the accelerator gets the car moving again. I have noticed the heavy breaking when a car turns off the road in front of you. It really does break hard and I will usually disable it when I see someone turning off because it will bleed 30-40km/h off my speed. The AEB has activated once when someone cut in front of me. Now that was an experience, the car lit up like Christmas and a fog horn went off!
  17. 3 points
  18. 3 points
    Hi Justin, My wife and I have found that it is a long step over them to get in and out, something I didn't consider when I orderd them. I bought them for looks and for their potential to reduce stone damage and so far I am satisfied on both counts. Terry
  19. 3 points
    Possession was taken pearlescent white Koba AWD CVT with roof-racks, side steps and chrome rear bumper guard. I have some internal accessories on order from eBay. As a lazy driver, the drive-assist features are fantastic for city driving.
  20. 3 points
  21. 3 points
    There's a reason why there's a Facebook page called "When Camrys Attack" As Trent said though there are tonnes of stereotypes out there when it comes to cars - if you drive a Falcodore you must be a VB-drinking bogan, if you drive a Euro you're an elitist snob (even if it's a Skoda or Seat, the bargain-basement Euros), Toyotas are whitegoods on wheels, everything out of China is made of tin-foil and folds up at the merest hint of an accident, anything Japanese is a rice-burner, Volvos are giant bricks driven 10k under the speed limit on the way to lawn bowls every Sunday (although "bloody Volvo driver!" has started to fall out of the lingo these days as they've had a bit of a coolness resurgence) etc etc.
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
    Thanks! Yeah the headlights are the factory HID ones with AFS. I would like to go for the facelift headlights that have the daytime running lamp built into the bottom, but they're $$$$. Vland have just released a new full LED headlight for this model which is very different, but I'm on the fence at the moment. Couple more pics that for some reason wouldn't work on the previous post:
  24. 2 points
    I stay in the left lanes to try avoid this but if it happens cos someone is so impatient & desperate to pass I just take my foot off the accelerator & let the car slow down on it's own, they soon get the message & overtake. Stress disappears.
  25. 2 points
    Essentially, I ignore them. I do take a deep breath and stay cool, calm and collected. I drive safe and smart i.e. defensively with about twice the braking distance so it is a relaxing non.stressful drive. Most definitely, I am NOT going to brake-check them. Eventually, the tailgater is going to overtake you and more than likely in less than desirable circumstances. Before my time, the girlfriend was driving and being tailgated. I understand that the roads were wet and she was driving below the speed limit for the conditions. The tailgater overtook her vehicle in a blaze of speed and disappeared into the curves ahead. Probably 5-10 minutes later, she came across their vehicle off the road and in a ditch with the occupants standing beside it . As she went passed them, she would the window down and said to them "Happy Motoring".
  26. 2 points
    Alright time for another update! So in the last 2 weeks, I've had some nice new major mods added to car. After a lot of thought on the existing setup, it was time for a change. The two major changes are a ported intake manifold and the change from CES ported headers to a custom designed, 4-1 header best known by the very few who know as the Chuned 4-1s. What began life as mere pipes. Was quickly turned into the 4-1 headers I got, within a week. I know you must think they don't look anything special to look at but, the design is extremely well thought out for the best possible gains for an N/A setup. Let's begin with last Sunday. I headed over to my mate Alec's place to get the manifold installed. Since he'd also got one and installed it a few days earlier, he was pretty familiar with what needed to go. Within the hour, the stock manifold was out and the new manifold was installed, along with the throttle body getting cleaned out. Massive thanks to Alec again for always helping me out with the bigger jobs. Manifold off. New intake manifold on, not too much different on the outside. Here is the main difference you can see from the throttle body side of the intake manifold, stock vs ported. I will be making a separate thread discussing the ported manifold and what is completed since I could really go into some serious detail with it. In short, after the manifold was installed, the response, torque down low and mid range along with top end improved excellently. The change in intake note crossing over into lift is quite a lot louder and very pronounced. There's always time for quick shot together, featuring the new apprentice. As of yesterday, I was up nice an early to head over to get the head over to the exhaust shop to get the headers fitted. Arriving just on time to begin the install. The process was to re-use the old cat, remove the stock headers and pipe before the cat so the new headers could be fitted along with a flex joint for extra piece of mind. The only issue was having 2 resonators quite close made the job a little more difficult but luckily enough, I was still able to retain both of the resonators. 4-1 collector. All finished up and ready to go! Once the install was done, I was very eager to hear the sound change and get driving. Turning it over for the first time, there was no noticeable change in idle note but, once applying some throttle driving you could hear the rushing of air through the headers along with a nice rumble and deeper note down low. Once getting over 4000 RPM you could hear a nice change in exhaust note getting a lot more raspy and than getting to the 5800 RPM crossover where lift screamed. Due the car been tuned for the previous setup without the ported intake manifold and 4-1 headers, a re-tune was definitely necessary. Luckily enough, earlier in the month while ordering the parts, my mate Ed planned to be in Sydney for the weekend which made it easy to pick the header install date. So after the header install, I headed over to visit Ed and we began to work over the tune. After quite a few pulls in the low RPM and high RPM ranges, Ed and I found the 5800 lift to be leaving a noticeable flat spot from 6000-6200 RPM where the power peaked initially before flattening and picking up again. We decided to raise the lift point to 6000 rpm to test and we found this to be a perfect point after some fine tuning was before and after lift to make the power band a lot more linear. Despite having quite a full car with extra parts and other unnecessary things, a 34 degree day with high humidity, the car has improved extremely well all round. Even less throttle input is needed, I can keep the car in a higher gear on hills and inclines with no issues, the power and torque improvements with the 4-1 design and of course the new roar of the beast! The new headers have really brought the 2ZZ to life. I'm really over the moon with the new setup and I'm super keen to get more kilometers down. These new mods wouldn't have happened without the R&D and hard work that Ed has put into both the intake manifold and headers. A massive thank you to Ed for all the hard work getting these parts ready to go in such a short time with no issues what so ever. As we approach the end of the year, I definitely want to keep driving over the Christmas break to enjoy the new setup. I will more than likely do an oil change next weekend before I get too busy along with hopefully giving the car a bath. Stay tuned until next time!
  27. 2 points
    I used the above approach rather than remove the intake and replace gaskets. Started at 4:30pm and paused at 7:30pm after replacing the spark plugs and ignition coils for the rear bank then reassembling. Probably could have saved 30 minutes by being better organized and having to find better quality 6 point socket and breaker bar to undo 2 of the nuts on the passenger side strut mount. Surprisingly, driver's side strut mount nuts came undone quite readily. Only took 20-30 minutes to replace the spark plugs and ignition coils for the front bank.
  28. 2 points
    Basically a couple of muppets felt their switch was a bit sticky so they took it upon themselves to open up the board and lubricate it. Unfortunately what they used was high flammable and caught fire. During the recall the master switch assy is tested, re-greased and anti tamper screws fitted to fend off average joe from taking it upon themselves to attempt to fix things again in the future.
  29. 2 points
    Hi everyone - first time poster here but long time Toyota owner (mostly 4wds though) and some Cressidas a long time ago. Recently bought a pretty cheap ($4k) 06 Presara (200k) that I'm doing up for a family member and as bit of a project for myself. Thought I share my experience as I have a lot of the common issues mentioned in this forum which has helped me greatly thanks. It's been fun working through the issues over the last couple of weeks. I haven't done a car project for years. The door open alarm 'bing bing bing' drives me mad. First job was to remove the cluster and put a self tapping screw into the piezo buzzer. Done this task many a time over the years. Bad Steering wheel shake at highway speeds - didn't drive it fast enough in my test drive to spot this but was an easy fix. The previous owner must have parked in some mud in the past with the front left wheel semi submerged. Mass buildup on the inside of the wheel. A quick wheel removal and a clean solved the issue but I put new (quality) tyres on anyway for safety's sake. Transmission flare on cold starts with gear changes (3-4). Still working on this. I see this is a common issue from way back. ECU change perhaps. Mine is the V2 ECU already though I seen they've updated the ECU again for this model as I've seen a later part number. I'm scratching my head here wondering if I should bother trying to fix it. Transmission in desperate need of a full flush. I've done this many times over the years to many vehicles but this transmissions took 16 Litres of Penrite LV to start clearing up. Other than the 3-4 flare on cold starts - the tranny runs really well. I haven't dropped the pan to change the filter yet. I did the flush via the transmission cooler hoses if anyone was wondering. 2 Litres at a time. Easy peasy. A couple of the buttons didn't work on the steering wheel. Seen this before in my Prado. Ordered a replacement clockspring assembly from ebay for 50 bucks. All working now. Had to swap over the steering angle sensor with the new part. Overall a 30 min job. Engine start rattle on cold starts. VVTi actuator I suspected thanks to this forum. Didn't notice it on my test drive but noticed on the other 3 or 4 Aurions I test drove of similar vintage. A couple of engine oil flushes has solved the issue for now - I was surprised. I think there maybe other servicing issues as this engine maybe 'sludged'. Engine does runs very well though - it goes hard (I'm used to diesel 4WDs). The engine bay and underneath are very tidy so it hasn't been totally neglected. White engine smoke on engine restarts. I first thought this was exhaust system condensation - looks like it but it does it during the middle of the day only after the car had been sitting for time. I'm heading down the replacement PCV valve and front rocker cover sludge clean route. Doesn't look like oil smoke though. More like water vapour but it's not using any water. I haven't spent much time working on the issue yet. Minor clear coat issue on the left side of the roof near the B pillar. A can of DIY 2K clear coat will solve this hopefully. Minor steering 'notch' when moving slowly and turning. Seems to be another common issue. Can barely feel it though. Intermediate shaft perhaps. When the car engine is off and I move the steering from left to right I can also hear a slight knocking sound somewhere underneath. Not sure if this is related to the notch I feel. Bushes or something? More time needed for root cause. Parking sensors constantly beeping when activated. This was related to the bumper scrapes on the vehicle corners - exactly where the sensors sit. Previous owner has knocked 2 of them inside the bumper. I pushed them back out and held them in with a little adhesive. All working now. Sticky dashboard. Dash mat is the solution/mask for the time being. I'll keep a eye out at the wreckers for a replacement for cheap. The ones I've found so far have the same issue. Missing spare smart key. Got a cheap replacement fob off ebay. Programmed with Techstream and hidden key cut locally. All good. Need to check if this engine has the original VVTi oil line rubber hose or steel tube replacement. Park brake doesn't work in reverse. Some tweaking was required to get this working OKish. Still not great. Won't hold well on my quite steep driveway. Not an maintenance issue - but will replace the Factory Headunit (with Sat) with something more modern. Looks like there are at least a few to choose from and are reasonably priced. Water leak, when raining, in the boot space in the spare tyre well. Got a replacement rubber seal from a wreckers for 20 buck. All good now. Knocking sound coming from rear of vehicle when changing direction (forward to reverse). Was the jack hitting the frame ever so slightly. Easy fix - simply remove jack. Or secure it properly :) Update. Add another issue in there - this time the alternator. Looks like low charge especially when idling. I was idling the car for quite some time doing some stuff and the stereo cut out and a few dash lights came on with the engine still running. Shut the engine down and the battery voltage was 11.90V. Not good. Overall the car drives really well now and inside is a nice place to be as long as you know where you're going and don't need to use the archaic and frustrating Nav system.
  30. 2 points
    Gentlemen, First and foremost, many thanks to everyone who contributed to the U660E related topics here, your contribution was priceless. Secondly, don't hold me liable for anything below, it just "worked for me"(c). Stay safe at all time! So, decided it was about time to bite the bullet and service the transmission on the 2008 Aurion, with dropping the pan, replacing the filter and doing a full flush using the method through the cooler return line from the toyotanation DIY topic with Toyota genuine filter, gasket and o-ring (165aud, ripoff, a Ryco kit is ~50 on eBay or 55 @SCA!) and 3x4l drums of Penrite ATV LV from Repco, about 93aud in total on sale. Basically went like this: 1. Wait for the engine/trans to cool down a bit, chock the rear wheels and jack up the car. Make sure it's level using a 3aud leveller from Bunnings. I've eventually ended up using 3 axle stands, better safe than sorry! 2. Left front wheel off. Remove the 2 shields, lower left and side. Remove the overflow and drain plugs with the 6mm hex socket then drain the trans oil, about 2.8l came out. Then remove the bolts and dropped the pan, adding some more 3-400ml from the pan and filter in the disposal jug. @krigeroz, your home engineered special key to undo *that* bolt saved my day :) 3. Clean and degrease everything carefully, it's not an operation done weekly or monthly so having started around 10am I just took my time. 4. Install new filter with the o-ring and put the pan back up with the new gasket. *That* bolt kept me busy for about 15-20minutes but with a bit of cursing, swearing and a lot of luck I defeated it eventually. Replaced the drained and overflow plugs, but unfortunately at this stage I made the first and thankfully last beginner mistake: I snapped a pan bolt, the very last one tightened :( 5. Refill with 3.2l and start the engine, let it to idle for about 10-15 minutes and check for leaks, then turn the engine on. Take a break, stretch and get everything ready for the flush. 6. Disconnect the cooler return hose that goes into the transmission from the cooler end and connect a transparent vinyl tube that goes into a measuring jug. 7. Pump out / funnel in. Get DW to start the engine and pump 1litre of fluid out, then stop the engine. Note: after stopping the there's some extra 100-150ml coming out, need to account for that when doing it. Remove the filler 24mm plug labelled WS and pour 1 litre in (the first time I went with about 1.25l, better to be a bit over). Replace the refill plug hand tight. Repeat until new fluid comes out. All up, including the pan refill I've used 12 litres of Penrite ATF. Note: before pouring the 1 litre make sure the vinyl tube is firmly inserted into the refill hole. 8. Replace the refill plug hand tight and go through the fluid level check procedure. At this point the fluid should be well below the 40-45 Celsius degrees range. Here I used a jumper wire and shorted OBD2 pins 4 and 13 and verified the temperature with an infrared thermometer. Now, the part I was most afraid I wouldn't get right: With the car in P start the engine, the dash lights will start blinking like a Xmas tree indicating the car is in some diagnostic mode. Then: - Move the gear shift slowly into R, N, D. Then move to S and cycle slowly through all 1 to 6 gears. All necessary to circulate the fluid. Return to P and take few breaths, the next 6 seconds are important. - Move to D and cycle N-D-N-D once every 1.5seconds, should finish in ~6 seconds in D. The D light will remain on for 2 seconds, then go off. Move the gearshift back into P. Now the car in is in temperature detection mode and the trans fluid is below 40 degrees. Remove the jumper wire. Note: you don't have to be extremely accurate with the 1.5/6 seconds counting, you'll eventually get it right. Suggest practising the detection mode before doing the flush to become comfortable with the procedure. - Let the car idle, when the temperature reaches 40 degrees you can start checking the level. As soon as D light came on I went underneath to check the oil pan temperature with the infrared gun in several points and got 38-39 degrees readings, so off by few degrees which was acceptable for me. With the engine running removed the overflow plug and the fluid started to trickle, meaning I was bang on with the refill. Replaced the overflow plug and tightened it, followed by tightening the refill plug. Done! Note: if the D light starts blinking it means the oil is above 45 degrees, you must stop the engine, let it cool down and start again. - Stop the engine, re-check all the pan bolts, check for leaks, then reinstall the shields. Replace the front wheel. - Remove the funnel & vinyl tube, then the tools / pan / rags / dropsheets / other objects from underneath the car, make sure no curious kids are stuffing around, then lower the car. Tighten the wheel nuts at 76lbs and remove the wheel. Look around the car, hopefully no parts / bolts / clips left around. Job done, time to praise yourself you've only ended up with one snapped bolt. - Go on a drive to test your work, if possible including suburban, coasting and freeway. When returning back home check for leaks again. Essential points and lessons learned: - Take your time, don't rush. - Read and reread the toyotanation.com topic and this one until everything is clear and follows a logical workflow. - Practise the temperature detection mode beforehand. - Don't over-tighten the pan bolts. The manual says 8nm torque which is extremely light. - Use dropsheets & rags in abundance, it does get messy. - Have extra shield clips handy, I broke 2 out of 3 from the lower left shield. See here the U250 and U660 repair manual, pages 55-57 for the U660 filling procedure. Thank you all again, you're a great bunch of selfless people :)
  31. 2 points
    Or look up Neil Trama Engineering on Facebook. Neil
  32. 2 points
    2017 ARC2 2wd Champions.
  33. 2 points
    Finally go a chance to take some photos. Not the best quality but i will try for some better ones later :-)
  34. 2 points
    Wahoo!!! Finally!! Does she have a name? There are some great Facebook groups if you're interested. The Victoria group has some knowledgeable peeps. I've found out about messaging, and dimming the mini screen.
  35. 2 points
    I think it also has a speed limiter so you can set it to 60k and no matter how hard you press the accelerator it won't go over 60k. Better option for around town. Can't find it in the book. BTW how cool are the puddle lamps!
  36. 2 points
  37. 2 points
    EEEK! I'm on a boat now. Not sure which one though since I thought my window was the 3rd or 10th. So maybe it made the 3rd and only updated today, as I understand it should be going from Yokohama via a K Line boat?
  38. 2 points
    I saw that window option in the manual Ellie but decided not to ask for it ti be coded - its a dealer thing Big deal about the mirrors - They will put the mirror rocker switch on your door cluster to the middle position You are right - The dealers really don't know enough about the cars I'm trying to find out why we cant have road sign assist. Everything seems to be in place for it
  39. 2 points
    Feedback to Toyota Australia will be available after delivery. In fact between the dealer and Toyota telephone calls and emails, you get plenty of opportunities to express opportunities for improvment.
  40. 2 points
    still scheduled for me. Hoping that changes by the end of the month. Happy for you (and a little jealous). ;)
  41. 2 points
    @AussieLE Congrats ! There's no way you'll be waiting another month for it if it's already at the dealer getting tint, if not 2moro then early next week. What's more I suspect they found another car that matches your order citeria to fulfill it cos it couldn't have been made 2 days ago & be here already ! Confirm build month/VIN/Engine # when you see it although it really doesn't matter. Either that or the tracking details were way off. I just googled the new Kona which I've never heard or seen B4 until now & reckon it's an ace looking truck, however, although they're making quick ground on the competition, Hyundai are NOWHERE near as technically advanced as Toyotas and certainly not as reliable. It will be a long time before I ever consider a Hyundai especially over brand T - I'm just a snob when it comes to cars as they're darn expensive to begin with. Also Hyundai appear lost at sea when it comes to styling. The Kona is evidence they're trying to change their image a bit & they're way behind Kia in that stakes cos they're really well sorted design wise.
  42. 2 points
    Radar Cruise Control: Radar cruise is pretty good, in fact, I love it and I have found I am a less aggressive driver with this feature activated, I am even getting used to cars jumping into the gap in front without getting upset, most of the time. There is no need to get upset, the car just slows down and opens the gap automatically. Some real life warnings: If a car pulls over or I change lanes to overtake another car, and there is no car in the radar range, and I am traveling below the preset speed limit the car will accelerate. All good so far, except, if there is stopped traffic at traffic lights for example. The car does not seem to lock onto a stopped car as quickly as a moving car and as such, the closing speed is very high. I always chicken out and hit the brakes myself as I am not confident that the car will auto-brake in time, if at all until it is too late. The issue seems to occur in 80k zones, as I have not noticed this in 60k zones. If the radar is locked onto a car or not accelerating all is good and the car slows and stops comfortably with the traffic. The issue seems to be an auto-acceleration v radar lock auto-braking conflict, have others noticed this? Western Australian drivers do not seem to understand that turning/slip lanes are designed for sufficient braking to occur. If a car turns into a slip lane and slows before getting all the way over or a car is at maximum radar range and slows quickly to turn a corner where there is no slip lane the C-HR will brake HARD. Be aware or you could be rear-ended. I would like to hear other peoples driving examples or warnings.
  43. 2 points
    I'll update that thread in the next few weeks. No logic required for this build. Anyway, I leave this thread for CharlesByrom21's questions. This pic was more of a motivator/point prover. If they were the last tuner in the country, they would not be allowed within 100m of my car. Money would be far better spent at Capalaba Motor Repairs. I'm not affiliated with them, just an advocate for honest quality work. I would also avoid GT Auto garage.
  44. 2 points
    @trentmeyer23 Right ! That's a big ***** turbocharger hooked up to what looks like a 3S-GE - correct ? Ceramic coating, custom radiator, re-built/worked engine ? Don't tell me you also custom fabricated a 4WD setup too cos it would badly need one if not. LSD ? Not gone through all of your thread build but I will :) Personally I would've done that sort of work on something like a Celica - maybe ST162 - ST204 & perhaps looked to making it all-paw grip. The real bonus appears you done it yourself & saved **** loads in the process as well as knowing it's done right from the outset. Congratulations, awesome work. Stealthy Camry that, a wolf in sheep's clothing for sure.
  45. 2 points
    I have a very different view on things. I am willing and have spent far more that that on mine. It's up to the individual.
  46. 2 points
    I've just done it, but not without using some of the choicest swear words known to man :) You will need to remove the upper radio/vents fascia, and the radio itself. Unclip the electrical connectors (theres one on top and one at the bottom), and then release the red and blue clips on the air circulation control and the thermostat by squeezing the top and sliding it off. Then remove the steel wires underneath the panel, by squeezing the stubs holding them on. You cant remove that white plastic housing on the back, however you can unclip the fascia from the rest of the unit. This will allow you access to the other side of the circuit board, which will make it that little bit easier to guide the bulbs into the sockets (especially the ones with awkward access in the middle). I also managed to break a clip or two (I don't think the bulbs have been changed since the car was new - the old bulbs were blackened as hell, and the middle two were entirely missing).
  47. 2 points
    Guys, my 86 took 7 months to arrive after order ! You will need access codes for the Tracking system, ask your dealer for them. The tracking system was accurate for me as far as the details are on it. After production things will happen quickly & is usually shipped to Oz with 2-3 weeks depending on state. It may sit on the docks for a week then gets trucked to your dealer pronto. The dealer will be desperate to get it sorted so they can get their $$$. Count on one thing - Toyotas capacity to produce if FAR greater than Subarus :/ Good luck, the CHR appears a nice car.
  48. 2 points
    Hi all, New to the forum, thought id share some photos of my new ZR corolla hatch. Only owned car for two weeks. Mods as follows; - Tinted Windows (15%) - De Badged - King Springs (35mm drop) - 19 inch wheels (+45 offset front/rear) with 235 tyres (front and rear). Finding it very difficult to source aftermarket parts for this vehicle online. So any recommendations of sites/ suppliers would be much appreciated. Cheers Jay
  49. 2 points
    This is what I refer to as roadcraft; smart driving skills anticipating what is happening and going to happen. I try to cruise up to slower or stopped traffic, even brake early a little bit so the vehicle is still moving when the traffic in front takes off again. Just laugh at [and avoid] idiots tailgating, accelerating hard, braking hard.
  50. 2 points
    A filter strap around the housing to hold it while undoing the drain plug worked for me. It's tricky but it can be done.




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