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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/24/2011 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I bought my aurion in 2015 brand new. Been a top car. I wanted a little more performance out of it. I have a K&N filter and also just did the exhaust collector mod. The standard pipe squishes together and very restrictive right where you want it to flow. We moved the flex pipe further back and had two pipes into a larger collector Professional workshop did it and its a top quality job. Car goes a fair bit better. 1st gear it just spins the tyres (235 tyres on 17 inch wheels). Massive axle tramp. Its definately making more torque and power. It just feels more urgent, like your driving downhill all the time. Might even get fuel efficiency gains Best thing is it sounds completely stock. I will try attach pictures.
  2. 4 points
    My baby has arrived. Great fun to drive. Very happy with my purchase. <3
  3. 4 points
    Picked up the red devil haha. So happy - pretty nervous on the short drive home. Turned a few heads. Just waiting on side garnishes which they said were on back order (e.g someone forgot)...looks ok without them. So smooth and zippy.
  4. 4 points
    It finally happened!!!!! Goodbye Minibeast, Hello Diamond!! 😍
  5. 3 points
    Hey TOCA, This has previously been discussed a long time ago about porting the intake manifold on the 2ZZ (specifically the Sportivo manifold as it can be split into 2 pieces). Well, I’m writing this as a review of a ported intake manifold after recently purchasing and installing one. Many people may think that porting the manifold is a waste of time and that you might as well go down the route of turbo or supercharging, or to go for an aftermarket manifold such as the DDP manifold. This is not to cause controversy by any means but is to simply get the information out there for more people to develop their N/A 2ZZ’s to the very best. This what is done to the manifold in regards to porting. The runners are left as is, this is specifically within the plenum and prior to the runners that are cleaned up and ported. I know this might deter people into thinking ‘it’s not a fully ported manifold’, but please keep reading through. The manifold runners are removed and the plenum section is cut open to begin the work. Within the plenum section of stock 2 piece manifold, you will see 2 pillars that are within the manifold that affect air flow to each runner. These are cut out and the remaining metal ground down to reduce any flow interruption into the runners. On top of the plenum, you will see velocity stacks at the of the runners. From Toyota, the casting is poorly completed, Leaving what resembles slanted donuts throughout various manifolds. These are ground down and evened out to increase flow. Comparisons between a stock intake manifold and a port manifold. The combination of the improved velocity stacks and the removal of the pillars is what is completed in terms of the porting on my particular manifold. Now, having this done I can provide what to expect with this style of ported manifold. Once installed, I started the car and checked for any strange noises, leaks etc. With no issues, I let the car warm up and took it for a spin. The first impression was that down low is almost the same as before, I did notice that the response had increased nicely and the revs climb a lot smoother and quicker than before. I decided to do a quick pull from 1st and another rolling in 2nd to get an idea of the gains. Both pulls went to the start of 3rd so within the speed limit. In first gear you notice there is no dip whatsoever in power, it’s smooth all the way until fuel cut and the revs climb a lot faster than before. Even in between gear changes, there doesn’t seem to be the slow rev climb back to fuel cut now. It continues to remain smooth. Another major change noticed was how loud the intake noise became. The crossover into lift is quite loud and very pronounced and at roughly 7000 and beyond it has a nice growl resonating through the intake, currently a 2.75” intake. For comparison's sake to make a little more sense, the sensational increase of power between a short ram intake or stock air box compared to a cold air intake. It’s that gain, on top if that makes sense. As it is a noticeable by the pants gain, it would definitely be evident on a dyno. Overall, I’m super happy with the ported manifold. For those that don’t want to read the whole thing and want a TLDR; installed ported manifold, increased response, increased torque and power, smoother power band, fast rev climb, loud intake sound. You may as well read the the whole review though to get a better understanding of what to expect if you’re really considering going towards porting. My mods are linked in my signature for those wondering what I have done to my car. If anyone is serious and genuinely interested in getting a ported manifold done, please send me a message and I can provide further details into getting this done. Thanks for reading! Sorry for the bold font (can't change it for some reason 🤔)
  6. 3 points
  7. 3 points
    UPDATE!! New tvs 1900 supercharger has been installed for almost a week now just havent had time to post it up. Let me say it was not an easy job at all and alot there is a fair bit of modification required as the supercharger hits the bonnet just slightly. The hardest bit of the whole job was to get the manifold off the original supercharger once manifold was off the car. It is held down with allen screws that are very tight and the moment u try to put any kind of allen key on them it just threads the heads. Had to end up drilling them out which took hours to try and not damage the manifold because the angle of which you habe to sit the drill to try and cut away at the screws is just a painnn. Bonnet had to be cut throttle body adaptor on the s/c had to be fliped intake modified and a whole bunch of hoses replaced for longer one. Dont get me wrong the car feels good now some more power there but without a tune yet the car i feel just wants to detune its self. I also ended up installing a boost gauge which im happy about i managed to drill a boost tap into the manifold while it was off the car so wen im pushing it foot to floor gauge is ready 10psi thats with a 90mm pulley i also have an 80mm pulley but will prob install it wen i go to tune it. This was all done at my place mechanic came past and i was helping him with what i could. The new s/c was powder coated black colour i ended up paying some high temp spray paint and sprayed it red its abit patchy now coz some of the paint got scratched off but ill touch it up. surprisingly the colour is very very close to orignal. I also got my hands on an original trd s/c decal wasnt cheap!!! But atleast it will handle the heat.
  8. 3 points
    Changing the battery to a new one didnt really help in my case. I have also noticed if i keep the start switch at ON position for about 8 seconds before starting the noise does not come but that is just coincidence. Now i did find this article online that actually mentions our problem and this guy recommends using thinner oil so the oil gets to cam gears through the 'vanes' sooner and doesn't cause the 1-2 second rattle. I currently use Penrite 5w40 and I am now thinking of using a thinner oil. But how thin can i go for this sort of engine? What do you guys recommend I try? You DIY Auto Thick oil and the VVT-i startup tick If you own a late model Toyota you may have noticed a 1-2 second ticking noise at startup. While there could be other mechanical problems, most of the time the culprit is a stuck/locked VVT-i controller. What can I do to resolve this? In some cases its an actual controller failure. But for most its oil selection. Its called Variable Valve Timing because its always running. From the second the engine starts, VVT is attempting to adjust to conditions. When it can't, gets stuck, it will tick for 1-2 seconds. Unlike Honda's VTEC that uses two sets of cam shaft profiles – one for low and mid range rpm and another for high rpm operation, VVT camshaft timing is varied using oil pressure according to engine revolutions, throttle position, engine coolant temperature and intake air volume. VVT operation depends on hydraulic oil pressure that arrives through a long winding path of tiny oil passages. So tiny they are known as "vanes". Its critical the system stays clean. Its critical the system maintains proper oil flow and pressure as fast as possible to prevent that annoying startup tick. Proper lubrication comes from a combination of oil pressure, flow, and film strength between moving parts. Oil pressure by itself is no indication of proper engine lubrication. Oil pressure is managed by the oil pump and relief valve. Thick oil will have higher pressure because there is more resistance to flow. Too high and it will flow out the oil pump relief valve back to the sump, lubricating nothing including the VVT system. As stated above, thick oil will have higher pressure because there is more resistance to flow. Add that to the tiny "vanes" of the VVT system and you have a oil flow lag as compared to the rest of the engine. By as much as 1-2 seconds. No coincidence that's the duration of the noise. Modern thin oils have better flow, better viscosity modifiers to manage film strength. That means better lubrication and cooling, keeping pressure within spec. Tthin as possible is a good thing, especially for the VVT-i system.. "Thin as possible" meaning some older engines have mechanical issues like wear/higher tolerances, valve seals, rings, etc. causing oil consumption that may prevent its use.
  9. 3 points
    Here's a console caddy I purchased of ebay that arrived today and is now in my console Bought from the same vendor that supplied the Gate slot kit so all matches Link for any of you that may be interested
  10. 3 points
    Did you see Justin? Our ship has left Japan, and is due to arrive at Brisbane on the 1st July. EXCITING!!!
  11. 3 points
  12. 3 points
    As I promised. I wrapped the dash in 3M 1080 Carbon Wrap.
  13. 3 points
    Yay Justin. Finally! The msg I got from Toyota Australia rep, and it's on my voice mail, is that my car is at the dealers, having tinting, etc. done. Not what tracking says though. I'll go with tracking and be surprised if I get an early call.
  14. 3 points
    Hi There - Been reading this C-HR forum a while and thought I might hop in At the risk of your raising you ire - I'm afraid I have mine - Had it delivered last Friday (took the day off) and I love it - Was worried about such a small motor - but seems not to present a problem as it handles the Dandenongs with ease My wait was 9 weeks - I didn't know about this track system either. But once the estimated time drew near and I asked dealer if still on track - I was told had missed the boat - They gave me this though, from their sap system, and I was able to track the Vessel on its long voyage around Australia (stopping all stations) unloading vehicles I sympathize with you all, The long wait is soul wrenching - It will be over soon We are pretty lucky here. Europe - Who get theirs form the Toyota Plant in Turkey - Some of them have been waiting 6 months
  15. 3 points
    Yeah... The radar cruise control is awesome. I have even used the stop/start function of it in peak hour and it works like a charm. Brings the car to a complete stop and a quick tap on the accelerator gets the car moving again. I have noticed the heavy breaking when a car turns off the road in front of you. It really does break hard and I will usually disable it when I see someone turning off because it will bleed 30-40km/h off my speed. The AEB has activated once when someone cut in front of me. Now that was an experience, the car lit up like Christmas and a fog horn went off!
  16. 3 points
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
    I stay in the left lanes to try avoid this but if it happens cos someone is so impatient & desperate to pass I just take my foot off the accelerator & let the car slow down on it's own, they soon get the message & overtake. Stress disappears.
  19. 2 points
    ive fixed a few of these engines and have one in my Lotus race car , so i'll try to educate some of you. the engines are quite simple to rebuild by modern engine standards however the timing chain set up is quite horrible and nearly all internal parts are horribly expensive, even non-genuine stuff. it would no longer be cost effective to fully recondition a stock engine in a stock Aurion as the value of the car is bugger-all. The TRD model uses an identical core engine but of course its worth a lot more due to the other stuff. A basic rings and bearings "refresh" is still expensive due to the silly $ asked for gaskets sets and the man-hours requires to strip and reassemble The con-rods are sintered metal, not forged. they are a well-known failure point in highly modified engines, but rarely give trouble in stock engines. The pistons are eutectic alloy, so quite tough for a high performance production engine and good enough for Toyota to accept them for the Aurion supercharged engine, albeit with low boost. Forged pistons and rods are always a good idea for highly modified engines because they will suffer a lot more abuse. Several vendors offer them who-ever dreamed up this idea of rating conrods by HP is having a lend of you as its purely a marketing gimmick. in my engine building experiences, i've seen $50 chinese "forged" conrods work perfectly ok in 300HP/litre turbo engines... its the bolts that usually fail so if they have good bolts, and are properly machined, they are usually perfectly OK. I worked with ACL to get the race series bearings made for this engine, but they wont make up for other deficiencies like sintered conrods i'll try to assist anyone with a specific tech question
  20. 2 points
    Essentially, I ignore them. I do take a deep breath and stay cool, calm and collected. I drive safe and smart i.e. defensively with about twice the braking distance so it is a relaxing non.stressful drive. Most definitely, I am NOT going to brake-check them. Eventually, the tailgater is going to overtake you and more than likely in less than desirable circumstances. Before my time, the girlfriend was driving and being tailgated. I understand that the roads were wet and she was driving below the speed limit for the conditions. The tailgater overtook her vehicle in a blaze of speed and disappeared into the curves ahead. Probably 5-10 minutes later, she came across their vehicle off the road and in a ditch with the occupants standing beside it . As she went passed them, she would the window down and said to them "Happy Motoring".
  21. 2 points
    Alright time for another update! So in the last 2 weeks, I've had some nice new major mods added to car. After a lot of thought on the existing setup, it was time for a change. The two major changes are a ported intake manifold and the change from CES ported headers to a custom designed, 4-1 header best known by the very few who know as the Chuned 4-1s. What began life as mere pipes. Was quickly turned into the 4-1 headers I got, within a week. I know you must think they don't look anything special to look at but, the design is extremely well thought out for the best possible gains for an N/A setup. Let's begin with last Sunday. I headed over to my mate Alec's place to get the manifold installed. Since he'd also got one and installed it a few days earlier, he was pretty familiar with what needed to go. Within the hour, the stock manifold was out and the new manifold was installed, along with the throttle body getting cleaned out. Massive thanks to Alec again for always helping me out with the bigger jobs. Manifold off. New intake manifold on, not too much different on the outside. Here is the main difference you can see from the throttle body side of the intake manifold, stock vs ported. I will be making a separate thread discussing the ported manifold and what is completed since I could really go into some serious detail with it. In short, after the manifold was installed, the response, torque down low and mid range along with top end improved excellently. The change in intake note crossing over into lift is quite a lot louder and very pronounced. There's always time for quick shot together, featuring the new apprentice. As of yesterday, I was up nice an early to head over to get the head over to the exhaust shop to get the headers fitted. Arriving just on time to begin the install. The process was to re-use the old cat, remove the stock headers and pipe before the cat so the new headers could be fitted along with a flex joint for extra piece of mind. The only issue was having 2 resonators quite close made the job a little more difficult but luckily enough, I was still able to retain both of the resonators. 4-1 collector. All finished up and ready to go! Once the install was done, I was very eager to hear the sound change and get driving. Turning it over for the first time, there was no noticeable change in idle note but, once applying some throttle driving you could hear the rushing of air through the headers along with a nice rumble and deeper note down low. Once getting over 4000 RPM you could hear a nice change in exhaust note getting a lot more raspy and than getting to the 5800 RPM crossover where lift screamed. Due the car been tuned for the previous setup without the ported intake manifold and 4-1 headers, a re-tune was definitely necessary. Luckily enough, earlier in the month while ordering the parts, my mate Ed planned to be in Sydney for the weekend which made it easy to pick the header install date. So after the header install, I headed over to visit Ed and we began to work over the tune. After quite a few pulls in the low RPM and high RPM ranges, Ed and I found the 5800 lift to be leaving a noticeable flat spot from 6000-6200 RPM where the power peaked initially before flattening and picking up again. We decided to raise the lift point to 6000 rpm to test and we found this to be a perfect point after some fine tuning was before and after lift to make the power band a lot more linear. Despite having quite a full car with extra parts and other unnecessary things, a 34 degree day with high humidity, the car has improved extremely well all round. Even less throttle input is needed, I can keep the car in a higher gear on hills and inclines with no issues, the power and torque improvements with the 4-1 design and of course the new roar of the beast! The new headers have really brought the 2ZZ to life. I'm really over the moon with the new setup and I'm super keen to get more kilometers down. These new mods wouldn't have happened without the R&D and hard work that Ed has put into both the intake manifold and headers. A massive thank you to Ed for all the hard work getting these parts ready to go in such a short time with no issues what so ever. As we approach the end of the year, I definitely want to keep driving over the Christmas break to enjoy the new setup. I will more than likely do an oil change next weekend before I get too busy along with hopefully giving the car a bath. Stay tuned until next time!
  22. 2 points
    I used the above approach rather than remove the intake and replace gaskets. Started at 4:30pm and paused at 7:30pm after replacing the spark plugs and ignition coils for the rear bank then reassembling. Probably could have saved 30 minutes by being better organized and having to find better quality 6 point socket and breaker bar to undo 2 of the nuts on the passenger side strut mount. Surprisingly, driver's side strut mount nuts came undone quite readily. Only took 20-30 minutes to replace the spark plugs and ignition coils for the front bank.
  23. 2 points
    Hi everyone - first time poster here but long time Toyota owner (mostly 4wds though) and some Cressidas a long time ago. Recently bought a pretty cheap ($4k) 06 Presara (200k) that I'm doing up for a family member and as bit of a project for myself. Thought I share my experience as I have a lot of the common issues mentioned in this forum which has helped me greatly thanks. It's been fun working through the issues over the last couple of weeks. I haven't done a car project for years. The door open alarm 'bing bing bing' drives me mad. First job was to remove the cluster and put a self tapping screw into the piezo buzzer. Done this task many a time over the years. Bad Steering wheel shake at highway speeds - didn't drive it fast enough in my test drive to spot this but was an easy fix. The previous owner must have parked in some mud in the past with the front left wheel semi submerged. Mass buildup on the inside of the wheel. A quick wheel removal and a clean solved the issue but I put new (quality) tyres on anyway for safety's sake. Transmission flare on cold starts with gear changes (3-4). Still working on this. I see this is a common issue from way back. ECU change perhaps. Mine is the V2 ECU already though I seen they've updated the ECU again for this model as I've seen a later part number. I'm scratching my head here wondering if I should bother trying to fix it. Transmission in desperate need of a full flush. I've done this many times over the years to many vehicles but this transmissions took 16 Litres of Penrite LV to start clearing up. Other than the 3-4 flare on cold starts - the tranny runs really well. I haven't dropped the pan to change the filter yet. I did the flush via the transmission cooler hoses if anyone was wondering. 2 Litres at a time. Easy peasy. A couple of the buttons didn't work on the steering wheel. Seen this before in my Prado. Ordered a replacement clockspring assembly from ebay for 50 bucks. All working now. Had to swap over the steering angle sensor with the new part. Overall a 30 min job. Engine start rattle on cold starts. VVTi actuator I suspected thanks to this forum. Didn't notice it on my test drive but noticed on the other 3 or 4 Aurions I test drove of similar vintage. A couple of engine oil flushes has solved the issue for now - I was surprised. I think there maybe other servicing issues as this engine maybe 'sludged'. Engine does runs very well though - it goes hard (I'm used to diesel 4WDs). The engine bay and underneath are very tidy so it hasn't been totally neglected. White engine smoke on engine restarts. I first thought this was exhaust system condensation - looks like it but it does it during the middle of the day only after the car had been sitting for time. I'm heading down the replacement PCV valve and front rocker cover sludge clean route. Doesn't look like oil smoke though. More like water vapour but it's not using any water. I haven't spent much time working on the issue yet. Minor clear coat issue on the left side of the roof near the B pillar. A can of DIY 2K clear coat will solve this hopefully. Minor steering 'notch' when moving slowly and turning. Seems to be another common issue. Can barely feel it though. Intermediate shaft perhaps. When the car engine is off and I move the steering from left to right I can also hear a slight knocking sound somewhere underneath. Not sure if this is related to the notch I feel. Bushes or something? More time needed for root cause. Parking sensors constantly beeping when activated. This was related to the bumper scrapes on the vehicle corners - exactly where the sensors sit. Previous owner has knocked 2 of them inside the bumper. I pushed them back out and held them in with a little adhesive. All working now. Sticky dashboard. Dash mat is the solution/mask for the time being. I'll keep a eye out at the wreckers for a replacement for cheap. The ones I've found so far have the same issue. Missing spare smart key. Got a cheap replacement fob off ebay. Programmed with Techstream and hidden key cut locally. All good. Need to check if this engine has the original VVTi oil line rubber hose or steel tube replacement. Park brake doesn't work in reverse. Some tweaking was required to get this working OKish. Still not great. Won't hold well on my quite steep driveway. Not an maintenance issue - but will replace the Factory Headunit (with Sat) with something more modern. Looks like there are at least a few to choose from and are reasonably priced. Water leak, when raining, in the boot space in the spare tyre well. Got a replacement rubber seal from a wreckers for 20 buck. All good now. Knocking sound coming from rear of vehicle when changing direction (forward to reverse). Was the jack hitting the frame ever so slightly. Easy fix - simply remove jack. Or secure it properly :) Update. Add another issue in there - this time the alternator. Looks like low charge especially when idling. I was idling the car for quite some time doing some stuff and the stereo cut out and a few dash lights came on with the engine still running. Shut the engine down and the battery voltage was 11.90V. Not good. Overall the car drives really well now and inside is a nice place to be as long as you know where you're going and don't need to use the archaic and frustrating Nav system.
  24. 2 points
    This is actually my third Toyota. Before I bought a Hyundai I owned 2 Corollas in a row, the first a 1987 hatch back manual and the second a 1998 Corolla Seca csi manual. The Hyundai I bought was a mistake. As I've said elsewhere, I've heard Hyundai cars have improved a great deal in quality but I decided not to buy another one. I'm sure a brand new Hyundai, maybe an Elantra or a Sonata, would've been a big improvement over my old car but I just felt I wanted a Toyota again. I was going to test drive a new Corolla, with CVT, as well but I test drove a Camry first and it just felt right for me. I'm a tall guy and after being stuck with a Hyundai Accent for so long the Camry just felt so comfortable. This Camry is also the first automatic car I've ever owned. Being larger than my previous car, driving the Camry after I bought it at first almost felt like I was "driving a boat". I honestly don't know how I would've coped without the proximity sensors, especially the cross traffic alert as I reverse out of my garage. Also, the inside of the Camry seemed like a spaceship compared to my previous car. But I'm used to it now. I'm 55 and I'm currently working casually, after getting my degree at the age of 50. I needed a car that was much more reliable than my old car as well as being more comfortable to drive and not too expensive to own over the long run. I'm very happy to be the owner of a Toyota again.
  25. 2 points
    Another quick update on the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tyres fitted to my 2010 SX Sportivo. I have now done almost 10,000km and have just checked and rotated my tyres. As per usual I've carefully measured the tread depth and it is as follows: Front Left is 4.5mm Front Right is 5mm Rear Left is 6mm Rear Right is 6mm These PS4s were fitted at 75930km and checked and rotated today at 85794km. Wear is even across the tyre and they still grip very well, especially in the wet! I'm very happy with these Michelins, the wear rate seems to have slowed, (and even stopped on the rears!!!) Have noticed a little more harshness creeping in on some of our dodgy roads that I frequently travel,( or maybe the Local Council is getting slack with repairs!!! ) I would highly recommend them as a great replacement tyre in the std 215/55ZR17-98W size.
  26. 2 points
    Hi all, Have seen on other sites the absence of a dash light control and finding the dash light too bright at night....however there is a solution as I found out by getting an English version of JDM manual. First turn on ignition Then turn on sidelights Make sure display shows ODO Push and hold selection button Display will dim from now when headlights are on. Simple fix, and may help others!
  27. 2 points
    Finally got around to checking the manual. Apparently there are 3 drain cocks. Attached document may be of some further assistance Toyota and Lexus 35l V6 2GRFE coolant bleeding trick.doc
  28. 2 points
    This clip basically showed exactly what to do, obviously compeltely different model of car, but in essense is EXACTLY the same. However we got luxury of drain plug! But you see the same stuff, drain fluid out, change filter, insert new oring, new gasket, bolt up in star pattern, fill with whatever came out. Ez lyf Change Auto Trans fluid Thanks
  29. 2 points
    Three hours later, all good, the TRD calipers and RDA discs all fitted. Took for a spin to bed in, the inner driver side front rim got some stuff on it which alarmed me but was only some manufacturing scuzz out of the middle void of the front disc. Braking is already far more progressive and will only improve after some more bedding in. One can see the clearance on the 17 in King wheels (along with the scuzz if you look closely). Thanks again guys/girls. This will do me until I can afford a shed and then it will prolly be FPV GT time, haha. PS- tried to bleed with the Repco vacuum bleeder but didn't really warm to it, ended up getting the Mrs out on the brake pedal to push the fluid through, worked much better for little old OCD me.
  30. 2 points
    Ok here's what was in there, the original PBR stuff but a bit dressed up-
  31. 2 points
    Hooray! Sunday pick up for me (Friday stuck at work and Saturday they were booked out!) but excited none the less.
  32. 2 points
    Hi, have just arrived back . All sorted, picking up the beast tomorrow! Now for some GOT goodness. And Westworld is back too. Can barely contain myself.
  33. 2 points
    Cool, have fun, you will get used to people looking at the car at lights or as they drive past and look back...lol now you gotta go through "new car syndrome" all over again, worrying about where you park and who parks next to you etc Cheers Eric
  34. 2 points
    Just waiting on tinting, protection and tow bar now. Dealer rang today and said he'd call with rego details tomorrow. Hopefully I can pick up Wednesday.
  35. 2 points
    Well went in had coilovers fitted pedders extreme xa's looks really good dropped about 2 inches but will have to raise it up about 2cm i think just a fraction to low heres a before and after photos the first 2 are before last 2 after fitting
  36. 2 points
    EEEK! I'm on a boat now. Not sure which one though since I thought my window was the 3rd or 10th. So maybe it made the 3rd and only updated today, as I understand it should be going from Yokohama via a K Line boat?
  37. 2 points
    Hi Ellie My carrier docked Port Melbourne a day ahead of schedule on 30th May Dealer arranged it for 8th June - I pushed it to Friday 9th and took Friday off
  38. 2 points
    I saw that window option in the manual Ellie but decided not to ask for it ti be coded - its a dealer thing Big deal about the mirrors - They will put the mirror rocker switch on your door cluster to the middle position You are right - The dealers really don't know enough about the cars I'm trying to find out why we cant have road sign assist. Everything seems to be in place for it
  39. 2 points
    So far it seems consistent that Toyota Sales Staff are not well versed in the features of the C-HR. I would have thought they would have improved since I received mine. At least then they had the excuse that it was a new, new model. You will love the car when you eventually get it see it in real life.
  40. 2 points
    Feedback to Toyota Australia will be available after delivery. In fact between the dealer and Toyota telephone calls and emails, you get plenty of opportunities to express opportunities for improvment.
  41. 2 points
    Wahoo!!!! justin's and mine were only like that for a short period of time before it was on a ship.
  42. 2 points
    still scheduled for me. Hoping that changes by the end of the month. Happy for you (and a little jealous). ;)
  43. 2 points
    Nice ! I don't have the skill for that but i did pick up this tip from aspec and trimmed my dash $5 and 5 mins sorry about the pic quality
  44. 2 points
    @AussieLE Congrats ! There's no way you'll be waiting another month for it if it's already at the dealer getting tint, if not 2moro then early next week. What's more I suspect they found another car that matches your order citeria to fulfill it cos it couldn't have been made 2 days ago & be here already ! Confirm build month/VIN/Engine # when you see it although it really doesn't matter. Either that or the tracking details were way off. I just googled the new Kona which I've never heard or seen B4 until now & reckon it's an ace looking truck, however, although they're making quick ground on the competition, Hyundai are NOWHERE near as technically advanced as Toyotas and certainly not as reliable. It will be a long time before I ever consider a Hyundai especially over brand T - I'm just a snob when it comes to cars as they're darn expensive to begin with. Also Hyundai appear lost at sea when it comes to styling. The Kona is evidence they're trying to change their image a bit & they're way behind Kia in that stakes cos they're really well sorted design wise.
  45. 2 points
    Radar Cruise Control: Radar cruise is pretty good, in fact, I love it and I have found I am a less aggressive driver with this feature activated, I am even getting used to cars jumping into the gap in front without getting upset, most of the time. There is no need to get upset, the car just slows down and opens the gap automatically. Some real life warnings: If a car pulls over or I change lanes to overtake another car, and there is no car in the radar range, and I am traveling below the preset speed limit the car will accelerate. All good so far, except, if there is stopped traffic at traffic lights for example. The car does not seem to lock onto a stopped car as quickly as a moving car and as such, the closing speed is very high. I always chicken out and hit the brakes myself as I am not confident that the car will auto-brake in time, if at all until it is too late. The issue seems to occur in 80k zones, as I have not noticed this in 60k zones. If the radar is locked onto a car or not accelerating all is good and the car slows and stops comfortably with the traffic. The issue seems to be an auto-acceleration v radar lock auto-braking conflict, have others noticed this? Western Australian drivers do not seem to understand that turning/slip lanes are designed for sufficient braking to occur. If a car turns into a slip lane and slows before getting all the way over or a car is at maximum radar range and slows quickly to turn a corner where there is no slip lane the C-HR will brake HARD. Be aware or you could be rear-ended. I would like to hear other peoples driving examples or warnings.
  46. 2 points
    I'll update that thread in the next few weeks. No logic required for this build. Anyway, I leave this thread for CharlesByrom21's questions. This pic was more of a motivator/point prover. If they were the last tuner in the country, they would not be allowed within 100m of my car. Money would be far better spent at Capalaba Motor Repairs. I'm not affiliated with them, just an advocate for honest quality work. I would also avoid GT Auto garage.
  47. 2 points
    I have a very different view on things. I am willing and have spent far more that that on mine. It's up to the individual.
  48. 2 points
    After a few emails and calls finally got tracking details! Hasn't started production yet but happy I can login and check for myself.
  49. 2 points
  50. 2 points
    From memory the stock controller is the guy/gal to hassle ;) Us 86 guys were real keen, we even tracked the boat it was on & it's whereabouts on its way to Oz ! They were hot property back then . . .

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