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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/23/2021 in Posts

  1. The ability to quickly disable the TC was removed by Toyota, to prevent fully sick hectic uleh's unleashing the full 200kw of savagery on the poor innocent bitumen.
    2 points
  2. Problem Solved I checked and cleaned the PCV valve with TB cleaner and ensured it was working correctly before installing it back into the valve cover. Next I checked the inlet manifold vacuum and found it to be 17 in Hg on a cold start, rising steadily to 22 in Hg as the engine reached operation temperature. This is in accordance with the data published in the Haynes workshop manual. Finally it was time to check to IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. Luckily it could be removed from the car without again removing the throttle body. It was full of black gunk which I removed with lots of TB cleaner and a small brush. I then removed the electric actuator from the IAC to check and ensure that the valve could move freely on its shaft. IAC Valve Body and Actuator After reassembly I installed the IAC valve on the TB in the car and plugged in the electrical connector. Upon starting the engine the idle revs went to 1000 RPM and then steadily dropped to around 650 RPM. Joy! Did some extensive test driving and stopping to check idle, but its perfect. So to sum up, happy camper, after Camry being off the road for 2 months.
    2 points
  3. Owned a 2007 Sonata NF 2.4 litre for almost 10 years and nearly 190.000km, the most trouble free car I've ever had in my life. Great build quality and unbelievably reliable. Until one day when my wife heard a loud bang while driving it and then the car suddenly lost power, then the engine started to sound like it spat a rod or something, sounding worse than any 1950 unmaintained diesel tractor started on a -25 degrees Celsius Christmas day :)) She managed to somehow drive it home and few days later the thing went to the wreckers (the car, not my lovely better half!), the engine was done, rebuilding it would cost more than the car's value at the time and selling it as parts would have taken years. It kind of started to give some early signs of failures around 160k mark with pinging / knocking some times and the oil level would drop towards min mark on the dipstick after 6-7000k. Lessons learned? - Don't put 91 unleaded in that engine, should have used 95 all along. - Don't trust the stealership for servicing, they'd put whatever crappy drum mineral oil they had in stock every 15k kms oil change, as per the service schedule. At the 135k service the dipstick already had some dark brown varnish on it where the min/max marks were. The car should have been services every 10k max with quality full synthetic. The car could have easily lasted past 300k mark if I had these 2 covered, but I left it to the pros at the time and it showed. Blessing in disguise, my wife now drives the 2013 Aurion we bought after the Sonata went, better car overall, but we still remember how well built the Sonata was and the interior finishing quality, well above Camry/Aurion. Even since I've decided I won't trust the monkeys at the stealerships and their extended service schedules which will only set your car up for failure. I'll be doing my own oil/filter changes at shorter intervals for as long as I'll be able to do so.
    1 point
  4. 🤣🤣🤣 Lek shu uleh ??
    1 point
  5. Hahaha, that is hillarious. A simple switch would've been so much simpler. Imagine someone watching you do this. They'd think you could have some kind of mental condition 😄
    1 point
  6. Great result Paul. Nice DIY work and thanks for updating us.
    1 point
  7. Good to know that you were on the right track. I had the exact opposite issue with the IAC valve on my 1998 Camry. It would not idle without accelerator and this was after running very nicely for that Sunday drive. In 10+ years of ownership and about 150,000 kms, I had never known to clean the throttle body and IAC valve. A few Google searches got me on the right track and now I clean the throttle body and IAC valve regularly on my current vehicles.
    1 point
  8. I'll try it 😄 ordered a spool of PETG which should be a slightly better material for it
    1 point
  9. I cannot imagine the front end takes a hit from a kangaroo and nothing gets bent. The metal isn't as strong as you think. If the headlight broke then I'd be pretty sure something is slightly off kilter with the metal work even if it doesn't appear that way. You may need to remove the headlight on the good side and just compare things.
    1 point
  10. That is 2 experienced guys with teamwork moving along to try and get close to the 15 minute mark. They must have done lots of dashboard replacements to know exactly what needed to be done without any reference to instructions. I am guessing that the fellow sitting down is the dealership's master technician. All is well until something goes wrong.
    1 point
  11. Here are some before and after pics
    1 point
  12. Well done on getting the dash replacement, we all live and learn about things we should have done mate. At least once it is done grab a decent dash mat or as I do make sure and keep the dash well protected with quality interior cleaner/protectant. I am sure once it is done and all back to looking good again the joy of driving our beauties will return because there is nothing more annoying than staring at a crappy dash mate. KAA
    1 point
  13. Have been booked in to have dash replaced, for what must be one of the last ones under goodwill warranty. Thank you Toyota 👍 Spent around an hour tidying up all my accessory wiring & preparing the dash for removal, leaving in speedo so I can drive in the meantime. In hindsight I should've just thrown a dashmat on top of it 😂
    1 point
  14. It's pretty typical for headlights to actually be earthed through the combination switch, which is why the wires would be going back in to the cabin
    1 point
  15. After 4 months wait and 3 weeks undertaking a few mods. I am now the proud owner of my 1st ever Toyota. I never considered a Hybrid until I started researching the market. If we like it or not hybrid/electric vehicles are here to stay and car buyers will have to get used to it. In my opinion the current Rav4 is an unbeatable package, if you can wait for it to come. However, considering they are so popular and common on the road I made some cosmetic changes to make it stand out a bit. Thanks must go to the local dealer I purchased it from as all this was done before it went through pre delivery, and even before I paid for it. A few times I thought, why am I doing this to a brand new car, but in the end I am happy with how it looks. Just off the ship Off to the panel shop That's better That's a wrap Add some tint Black out the badges Add some chrome Time to come home "Oh what a feeling"
    1 point
  16. Welcome 👍 Ive been doing bits here & there on my '11 aurion, here's a link to my thread for ideas Regarding mods, well it all comes down to each individual taste but this would be my order... 1. Window tint 18% (I see yours is done already) 2. Head unit. Checkout the jvc & Kenwood range as they usually have built in programmable steering wheel controls which allows simple connection via 2 wires, look for the "direct oem steering" symbol on the box/description 3. Lowered suspension. Dropping the height of car by 30-50mm will make it much more appealing to look at than any bodykit or rims on their own. And the upside to that is a massive difference in the way the car handles. I recently fitted new springs & struts and it looks & handles great, but if I had to do it again I would go the bc racing coilover kit, which u can find on ebay. This will allow fine tuning of comfort & ride height and will only end up being slightly more expensive than buying parts separate. The other option is fitting the pedders springs on the factory struts along with camber bolts to adjust back to spec, but the ride will be rough as hell. 3. Rims...... If we are talking about factory rims.... 2006+ Kluger, chr, camry will bolt straight on due to them using the same shank wheel nuts. Aftermarket there will be plenty choices, but I've never looked into sorry. 18s for compromise between comfort looks, and 19s for looks. 20s won't have much Tyre on them so will be prone to damage on our roads. The rest of the stuff like exhaust, lighting, body kits comes down to personal preference & there should be plenty reading ahead for you on this site 😛
    1 point
  17. The Buy and Sell Rules have been updated to allow for the following: Any member may now sell an item within the for sale section, regardless of time as a member or post count. Any member may now sell a private vehicle within the Toyota's For Sale section, regardless of time as a member or post count. Traders are reminded to follow the correct channels listed above. These rules are subject to change at any time without notice.
    1 point
  18. The following rules apply to the Buy and Sell section: All private vehicle sales must be made in the Toyota's For Sale section. No commercial selling is allowed. Traders must read the terms and conditions located here: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/terms-conditions/ or alternatively contact management who will point you in the right direction. Sale posts may only be made in the Buy and Sell forums. The Sale Template below must be used for all sale threads including vehicles. You may only 'bump up' your item once every 48 hours. Bumping includes any posts made in your for sale thread that are not adding additional information related to the item, or answering questions from other users. At the discretion of the management, posts may be removed at any time without notice; and if deemed necessary the member may have their access restricted. The eBay section is not to be used for private or trader sales, it is for eBay finds only. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate in contacting a member of the management team. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sale Template Please remove the italicised portions and input the relevant information. * In the title of the thread you MUST include the state the item is located, for example: [NSW] 1990 Toyota Corolla SX Hatch Item: Location: Website: <If selling on eBay / Carsales> Item Condition: <New/Used/Refurbished> Reason for Selling: Price and Payment conditions: Any additional information: Shipping: <Willing/Not willing to ship or Postage at buyers expense> Pictures: Contact Details: -------------------------------------------------------------------------
    1 point




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