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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
  2. 2 points
    Anytime my friend. No point in holding back info when someone needs it. I only don't reply to a thread if I don't have relevant info 😂😂
  3. 2 points
    Thanks! Yeah the headlights are the factory HID ones with AFS. I would like to go for the facelift headlights that have the daytime running lamp built into the bottom, but they're $$$$. Vland have just released a new full LED headlight for this model which is very different, but I'm on the fence at the moment. Couple more pics that for some reason wouldn't work on the previous post:
  4. 2 points
    I stay in the left lanes to try avoid this but if it happens cos someone is so impatient & desperate to pass I just take my foot off the accelerator & let the car slow down on it's own, they soon get the message & overtake. Stress disappears.
  5. 2 points
    ive fixed a few of these engines and have one in my Lotus race car , so i'll try to educate some of you. the engines are quite simple to rebuild by modern engine standards however the timing chain set up is quite horrible and nearly all internal parts are horribly expensive, even non-genuine stuff. it would no longer be cost effective to fully recondition a stock engine in a stock Aurion as the value of the car is bugger-all. The TRD model uses an identical core engine but of course its worth a lot more due to the other stuff. A basic rings and bearings "refresh" is still expensive due to the silly $ asked for gaskets sets and the man-hours requires to strip and reassemble The con-rods are sintered metal, not forged. they are a well-known failure point in highly modified engines, but rarely give trouble in stock engines. The pistons are eutectic alloy, so quite tough for a high performance production engine and good enough for Toyota to accept them for the Aurion supercharged engine, albeit with low boost. Forged pistons and rods are always a good idea for highly modified engines because they will suffer a lot more abuse. Several vendors offer them who-ever dreamed up this idea of rating conrods by HP is having a lend of you as its purely a marketing gimmick. in my engine building experiences, i've seen $50 chinese "forged" conrods work perfectly ok in 300HP/litre turbo engines... its the bolts that usually fail so if they have good bolts, and are properly machined, they are usually perfectly OK. I worked with ACL to get the race series bearings made for this engine, but they wont make up for other deficiencies like sintered conrods i'll try to assist anyone with a specific tech question
  6. 2 points
    Essentially, I ignore them. I do take a deep breath and stay cool, calm and collected. I drive safe and smart i.e. defensively with about twice the braking distance so it is a relaxing non.stressful drive. Most definitely, I am NOT going to brake-check them. Eventually, the tailgater is going to overtake you and more than likely in less than desirable circumstances. Before my time, the girlfriend was driving and being tailgated. I understand that the roads were wet and she was driving below the speed limit for the conditions. The tailgater overtook her vehicle in a blaze of speed and disappeared into the curves ahead. Probably 5-10 minutes later, she came across their vehicle off the road and in a ditch with the occupants standing beside it . As she went passed them, she would the window down and said to them "Happy Motoring".
  7. 1 point
    Thanks bud. With the trd bonnet guard its just a normal standard aurion one i just stuck thr trd on but im not one for cheapy looking stickers but tbh it looks pritty oem so i just stuck with it.
  8. 1 point
    I ignore them too. Don't want to waste my time getting angry at ill-mannered drivers.
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Is the seller by any chance in the US? The Camry came whole range of premium sound options over there which use JBL hardware and most likely has different wiring which is why the seller is asking, I don't believe Aus-built ones had the same option (but I could be wrong).
  11. 1 point
    Just watched this YouTube video about the co-development of the BMW Z4 and the Toyota Supra. Certainly preferred the tone of this video with a "factual/informed" approach to offset unsubstantiated statements/claims. Interesting the different manufacturer's approach and Toyota's engineers' emphasis upon durability and reliabilty. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jbyzmtgU_0
  12. 1 point
    Hi, Baj, I'm in the same predicament with a 2013 corolla. Could you please share the files or post a link
  13. 1 point
    You can pull out the unit man, it's easy. 1. Remove the center aircon vent, tilt the vents and pull out. 2. Remove the bottom ash tray compartment from the center console. 3. Remove the gear knob which allows the surround and gear boot to be removed. 4. Now hold the top and bottom of the center unit and you can pull it out.
  14. 1 point
    Yeah that hole on the left side, is where it will go into. The straight side of the spring goes into the center console unit, and the booked side on the flap. I don't run the spring as my hinge broken years ago but I'll get some pics for reference. EDIT: Pic for reference from YouTube.
  15. 1 point
    No worries mate. I'll try and get some photo's for you of the hole on the center console unit itself where the spring goes into.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    id go 2.5" with no cat, and for your muffler - to reduce rasp, make sure your muffler has bends inside rather than a straight through muffler, maybe even get a bee-r revlimiter ? haha setup i have atm is 2.5" stainless steel with mandrel bends, 100cel cat and a (sized as close to oem) straight through muffler (also have intake and headers) i get some crackles if i let off around 3000rpm and some pops sometimes when i shift 😛 - its droney sitting on 2900 on the fwy, i guess a resonator would fix it -its raspy because of the straight through muffler choice
  18. 1 point
    Depending how many mods you plan on doing, you have to decide what size piping and what material to use. Most go for 2.5" piping with mild steel, which does reduce rasp somewhat compared to stainless but will have a shorter life span compared to stainless. There are gains to be had with 2.25" exhausts but it's not too much bigger than stock, the main advantage would be the additional flow without restrictions added. I run 2.5" mild press bent, which does cause some restriction but I haven't reached the limits of needing mandrel bent as of yet. Generally moving to high flow cat can get some occasional pops, I have previously ran stock ported headers now on custom 4-1s headers and they still pop every no and than. So look into getting a high flow cat if you have the funds. I have seen some with stock cats also pop occasionally as they do flow reasonably well for a standard item. You will also need to consider the muffler as this completes the sound and will help greatly with flow. Generally the pops are just un-burnt fuel that gets ignited in the exhaust system. I recall even my completely stock exhaust system did it from time to time. EDIT: I completely forgot to mention resonators/hot dog mufflers. I run 2 and this reduces the rasp a fair bit. A budget method many user with 2.5" piping is the VE commodore V6 resonator, as it's 2.5" inside I believe, is cheap and is quite long too. Resonators can reduce the rasp greatly depending on how big, the type and how many you use.
  19. 1 point
    Perhaps the attached document will be of interest to you. Personally, I am more into "stealth" mode these days; keep it ultra quiet and let the exhaust flow freely when you want that performance and acceleration. Remember quiet car, less police attention, maybe fewer tickets and less trips for machinery inspections to "prove" the exhaust is within the acceptable decibel range. Exhaust Back Pressure.doc
  20. 1 point
    First update of 2019! Alright, since my last update not all too much has changed on the car. A few days after posting my last update, I noticed that the car sounded a bit different from normal and realised I have an exhaust leak. I've yet to get the chance with Sydney's unstable weather to go underneath and have a look where it is coming from but it does sound like it is coming from the headers towards the passenger side. The car recently went through rego without any hassles, I still need to get the headlight plug sorted and get both headlights working as soon as I can, I have a spare plug waiting to get put in and it's only a matter of getting it done now. Last fortnight was the first time this year I've had the chance to was the car, gave it a nice clean inside and out which was great until it rained that night. Luckily it wasn't dirty rain and the car still doesn't look too bad as of recently. Over the long weekend, I was finally able to go on a quick drive which I haven't done in a long time other than for work up to Springwood. My partner and I waited till it cooled down towards the end of the day and went up to the lookout. Sadly, a whole heap of slow traffic ruined the twisty experience which is why I seem to end up there at night. So this post is quite short mostly because I haven't done all too much at the start of the year. I do have some plans coming for this year and as always, there is a to-do list as below: - Repair headlight plug - Fix the exhaust leak - Re-do black housing headlights with original lights - Keep the car neat and tidy all round - Remove excessive and unnecessary weight Looking forward to the year ahead, continuing the build and seeing everyone's builds coming along. I'd hopefully like to get a run on the dyno and maybe even a few runs down the 1/4 or roll racing for some off street action. Stay tuned!
  21. 1 point
    Sharing with others how I fixed Trouble Code C1554 which is a Power Steering fault. I was able to rectify the problem by clearing the fault code using my laptop and Mini-VCI J2534 OBDII connector (bought from ebay) to my 2007 Toyota Tarago/Previa/Estima (ACR50). You'll also need to install Toyota's Techstream software as per Mini-VCI instructions. The fault code was reporting overheating of the power steering unit. I guess it was a hot day and my brother in law was over enthusiastic with turning the steering wheel whilst in the parking lot when the P/S light came on and the power steering disabled. It's so hard to turn the steering wheel when power steering is disabled. The trouble code indicates there's a power relay failure for the power steering, but once I cleared the trouble code, and restarted the car, the P/S light (usually lights up on start up briefly) turned off after a couple of seconds and the steering wheel was back to normal again. Saved me good time and money going to the mechanic to do the same thing.
  22. 1 point
    I've had this particular style of LED rear bumper lamps installed for the last 3-years, but after noticing that one of them had moisture inside the lens I decided to swap them out for new ones - And to my surprise, they now do one with a sequential indicator instead of a normal flashing one, so they're even better than before! :) Here's the video I uploaded to YouTube earlier: https://youtu.be/ty8JQPmolFA
  23. 1 point
    Ok guys, so I’ve chosen to go with the 2017 Aurion Sportivo 😁 i had to test both cars extensively. I kinda did fall in love with the Aurion. It’s pretty versatile as a city and a hwy car, which is exactly what I needed. Also more pick up of the line than the Falcon, which felt a bit sluggish at times. Comes with 18 months of factory warranty left, less niggles and better reliability. So I guess my choice is made haha. Cheers guys
  24. 1 point
    Thanks mate. I'll have to get a photo of the two cars together sometime. In the meantime, here's some of the IS350. I bought it completely stock in May 2018, but so far have done: Front and rear bumper lips, throttle controller, carbon wrapped center console, trunk lip spoiler, roof spoiler, Vland tail lights, S2000 muffler tips, AF Dynamic air intake, chrome fog light surrounds, custom LED rear bumper reflectors, rear bumper reflector surrounds, Lexus light up high stop lamp, headlight eyelids, front mudflaps, facelift F-Sport grille, anodized red brake calipers, 20% window tint and a leather stitched dash mat.
  25. 1 point
    Well guys, it's been almost 2-years and I bought the Aurion back a couple of weeks ago from the same person I sold it to (poster above). When I originally sold the Aurion it was a regretful sale, but we were buying our first home and the difference between our offer on the house and what the seller was willing to accept was about the cost of the Aurion, so sadly it had to go. I've wanted it back ever since, so when the opportunity arose to buy it back I decided to take it. She still looks the same as the day I sold her, albeit with a few more km's and stone chips here and there, but for the most part she's exactly as I remember. I also have a Lexus IS350 which I take turns driving to work on alternate days, but they both share the garage together and it's a nice feeling to have the old girl back again.
  26. 1 point
    1967 Toyota Lite Stout East Brisbane, Queensland I am the second owner and I don't need it any more. It has amazingly small amount of surface rust as it was kept in a shed for its first 48 years. Will be sold with a road worthy. Refurbed steel and timber tray. As you would know, it's a very are model. Original wheels and tyres will be sold with. $9,000.00 Contract CRAIG 0403 947 296
  27. 1 point
    Reliable = toyota. My 2007 has 245000km so far repair other than service parts (brake pads, oil, one headlight globe..) = $0. Nil, not anything, none.
  28. 1 point
    Day +next - engine is now on the stand. Had to take the flywheel off as the mounting arms were hitting the pressure plate dowels, and could probably use a washer or two on the top gearbox bolts as they just bottom out in the block. Currently pivoting around the crank which makes it super hard to turn (2ZZ is quite top-heavy too), need to try and lower it as much as I can so it doesn't turn in to the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Actually ended up re-fitting the exhaust manifold just to try and balance it in the short-term. by Ian Rigby, on Flickr Next step (after balancing the stand) will be to label and strip off all the hoses etc, get the manifolds off and then pull the cam cover to do the lift bolts (and get an idea on the general condition of the engine).
  29. 1 point
    On the left hand side of the center console, there is a small circle behind the hinge where the spring mounts onto. The spring can than be placed on the flap like the picture attached, you can see how it mounts roughly.
  30. 1 point
    Do you have the small metal spring still that hooks in at all? You have to make sure that is hooked on the flap and onto the side of the center console unit while it sits on both of the plastic hinges at the bottom. If one hinge is broken (generally the left side breaks quite easily) than the spring will make it sit incorrectly and make the flap pop out from its place. You can get a new spring from Toyota, I have the part number 5544512110 which usually goes for around $2.50.
  31. 1 point
    Oh, and I'm now rolling on 15" TOM's AE111 wheels, came up at a bargain price and I couldn't resist a piece of JDM dealer-option gold.
  32. 1 point
    So as most of you probably know, about 12 months ago I finally pulled my finger out and get started on an engine conversion that I've been umming and ahhing about for the last ~10 years. Over the course of that time my mind would sway every few months, from a supercharged 20V to a high-comp smallport 7AGE, to a redtop BEAMS 3SGE, and then off to more exotic pastures like a 1MZFE or 2GRFE. Eventually though I decided that most of the standard conversions out there (A- or S-based) are getting long in the tooth design-wise, and I should probably look at something more modern (but not too modern that would make the electronics a nightmare) - enter the 2ZZGE. Good power straight out of the box, aftermarket support, locally delivered so parts aren't hard to find, plus the added fun/awesomeness of Lift and a 6-speed manual. So with my annual bonus from work fresh in my pocket, I started trawling Gumtree/Carsales/Facebook for cheap ZZT231 Celicas to rip the drivetrain out of (my main reason going with the Celica rather than the Sportivo is the better final drive ratio for cruising, plus Celicas tended to be cheaper and more plentiful) Initially started to get slightly depressed when I realised I'd still have to burn half my budget buying a rego'd runner only to scrap 90% of it, until one day a wrecked but "complete" low-k 2000 SX fell in my lap for the ridiculously cheap price of $700 (the gearbox and engine combo alone can go for $2k). Cue a mad rush to clear space in my garage (because the wife wouldn't want a shell sitting in the driveway and I needed cover to rip stuff out) as well as organise a trailer/tow-car - borrowed my mate's diesel Ranger and found a local guy who rented out car trailers for $50 a day. Just to make things more fun, picked up the trailer the afternoon before but none of the lights worked. Checked with my BiL's Jeep and everything worked fine (couldn't take the Jeep though as the brakes needed to be replaced), so figured it would have to be in the wiring on the Ranger....turns out whomever did the wiring harness for the trailer plug used Scotchloks instead of braincells, and had basically disintegrated. A morning-of patch job by @theguitarhero4 saved the day, however no trailer brakes (ute didn't have them fitted at all) left me a bit nervous negotiating the steep hills of the F3 on the way home with 2 tonnes of car trailer behind (turned out to be completely unwarranted though, the Ranger towed like an absolute champ). What will hopefully await me whenever I open the bonnet in the future Back home and tucked away First purchase was an MWR order to get the ball rolling - JDM ECU w/ no immobiliser, short-shifter (the Celica 6-speed housing bolts directly in to the Corolla), new dipstick (ring had broken off), solid shifter bushes, and the obligatory lift bolts. The beginning of the strip - battery, ECU and air intake removed. Over the next few months I would slowly chip away at the engine bay, focusing on making room and getting rid of anything that I didn't need and would just get in the way - radiator, air-con condenser, overflow bottle, by the end of it I had basically stripped the entire front of the car (one of the good things about the Celica is that you can unbolt practically _everything_ from the front end). Then moved my attention to the gearbox and the driveshafts Turns out that you really do need to un-stake the axle nuts before you whale on them with a 300Nm rattlegun.....ended up with 2 stripped axles (wasn't planning on re-using them anyway) and 1 nut in particular that was stuck on because it had stripped but there was still thread either side of it on the axle (part-drilled it out and then pried off with the biggest bar I had). Gearbox oil was green too, which was a bit concerning as I hope it isn't the dreaded Redline Shockproof (which would indicate that the synchros could be on the way out, despite being only 130k). Equal-length driveshafts will be a bonus though. Then made a start on the plethora of pipes and hoses in the engine bay - heater hoses, power steering lines, fuel line (got to love factory-fitted quick-connects) vacuum lines, air-con (at which point I "accidentally" released the entire load of R134a in to the atmosphere as I assumed it had already leaked out from the accident....turns out noooooooooooope), and fitted the engine lifting hooks (figured it best to lift the engine the way Toyota intended, rather than via seat-belts/random bolts etc) - the rear one was a real prick as there is basically no room between the back of the head and the cowl At this point I realised that the only thing holding the engine in to the car were the 4 engine mounts...........so I thought "bugger it, this thing is coming out today". Of course I chose to attempt this with the car parked in just about the worst position possible, had literally millimetres of clearance between the engine, gearbox, chassis and roller-door. Success! Note for future conversions - load leveller is worth its weight in gold. And I only tested the tensile strength of a single ground wire strap.....guess who won. Next step was splitting the engine and gearbox so I could measure the bolt lengths required and get the block up on the engine stand (stupid fine-threads...). Block and gearbox were slightly harder to separate than I expected until I realised the wiring harness was still attached to both.....oops. 20190112_190806 by Ian Rigby, on Flickr So that's how things stand at the moment. At this stage I'm considering starting the 7A removal around Easter (depending on when my bonus comes in and when rego is due on the Corolla, so I can have it off the road for the maximum amount of time possible without rego cancelling). List Timing-end engine mount from a Euro-spec 4ZZ ZZE111 (the E11x has essentially the same chassis as the E10x) - the 3 other mounts should essentially bolt straight on (benefit of the C-series transmission) MWR adaptor mount (used to fit the 2ZZ in to the 1ZZ-powered MR2/S) Fuel pressure regulator (so I can keep the returnless fuel rail) Custom exhaust headers as the Celica ones will hit the firewall/steering rack New clutch and flywheel (Fidanza probably, not sure on the clutch yet) New intake (might need to relocate battery too) New CVs (mix-n-match from a couple of different cars to get the splines and lengths right) Obvious ****s-n-bits for power steering, brake booster, clutch lines, air-con etc etc Oh, and something about wires....meh, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it
  33. 1 point
    Hi Baj can you please share the file, thanks.
  34. 1 point
    Hi Baj, would u mind sending me the files to load in SD card. I have the same issue. Thanks
  35. 1 point
    Try sliding the drivers seat back on its adjusters then checking on floor just in front of seat (under edge of carpet). Otherwise look around engine bay or door jams. They are usual places. Mine is older model.
  36. 1 point
    And making sure it isn't too close to a bend. Basically Toyota MAFs work best in straight smooth flow of the same diameter as the stock piping.
  37. 1 point
    You may be interested in the latest 3 day special from SuperCheap Auto; Shell Helix HX8 Engine Oil - 5W-30 5 Litre https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/shell-shell-helix-hx8-engine-oil---5w-30-5-litre/373035.html?j=3969286&sfmc_sub=25368615&sub=205970513_SCA01_CRP&l=333_HTML&u=74336249&mid=6010680&jb=411&utm_source=email&utm_medium=email-subscriber&utm_campaign=C_SCA01_2019_WK28_2DD
  38. 1 point
    "The pipe was 3 inches in diameter". That's the issue. Although you can run a 3" intake on the 2ZZ, to run on the stock ECU and/or piggy back systems it needs to have a reducer at the MAF of 2.75" otherwise you get issues to what you were experiencing. I run a 3" intake but it has a 2.75" reducer at the MAF so there are no issues. To run a full 3", as Ben said you need to get an aftermarket ECU.
  39. 1 point
    I have size 14 feet, i have no peoblems with this
  40. 1 point
    Certainly toned down from the over the top F1 concept. As for awesome, it is all in the eye of the beholder. Personally, I want to see more pictures of its official launch at the 2019 Detroit motor show. Until then, the following looks really nice to my eye. https://www.roadandtrack.com/new-cars/future-cars/a12635049/2019-toyota-supra-what-we-know/ On paper, it looks like it is going to have a very decent engine and auto transmission. https://www.bmwblog.com/2019/01/01/top-10-best-engines-of-2019-by-wards-auto-b58-3-0-liter-inline-six/?utm_source=quora&utm_medium=referral
  41. 1 point
    I thought that I would share the following YouTube video because I agree with his practice of changing the oil filter mid-way through an extended service interval. I particularly noted his recommendation of reducing the service interval and a higher oil viscosity with the increased mileage. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lUA1YgoF1U
  42. 1 point
    Wishing all in forum a Wonderful 2019, May it be a great year for all.....especially if 2018 has been a struggle for you From Myself (Robert) and my Wife (Jan) on the Central Coast NSW Stay Safe,Stay Smart and Aware,and ENJOY! KAA
  43. 1 point
    Oooooooooft this is some joocy content, love reading!
  44. 1 point
    Taking this opportunity to wish all here a very Safe and Happy Christmas, if your travelling be smart and take breaks along the way. Make allowances for IDIOTS..far too many times they are out there this time of the year..so play smart and safe From myself and my wife Merry Christmas 2018 KAA
  45. 1 point
    Suggest you wait for your regular mechanic or go to an automatic transmission shop.
  46. 1 point
    Thanks, mate. I tried with your files for a few days but didn't work. Luckily, I managed to find the files from a UK forum which worked the very first time the SD card was loaded on. Happy to share them for anyone else in need. Cheers. Thought to update here in case I could help others!
  47. 1 point
    Update, still leaking, but I found the cause, I remembered I had the Sunroof, repaired, and guess what the tube had fallen off on driver side. Bloody Toyota dealership, I could kick them up their b*m. No more leaks.
  48. 1 point
    My life now is wife and kids lol. Dont even have time to hand wash the car. Ah well. Did add rear bar a couple of years back or so just before the second kid came along haha.
  49. 1 point
    Update on the brake problem. It was as simple as replacing the brake master cylinder. I ended up getting an aftermarket one from my local Toyota dealer. The original one they first quoted was over $600, then this one was $480, and then the spare parts salesman said he could do it for better and sold it to me for $280. Anyhow I guess the learning out of this is that the faulty brake master cylinder can work good most of the time, but then randomly play up. Hope this helps someone out with a similar problem in the future.
  50. 1 point
    Just got email from SuperCheap Auto for Club Members 35% discount off Penrite Oils 18-20 May. Penrite LV ATF 4 litre $29.24 discount price too attractive to let go. If you are not a member, you can join in store and get the discount prices applied immediately. I did another online order for 4 with local store pick-up to ensure I did not miss out. Also applied a $9 credit from my previous purchase.

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