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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Changing the battery to a new one didnt really help in my case. I have also noticed if i keep the start switch at ON position for about 8 seconds before starting the noise does not come but that is just coincidence. Now i did find this article online that actually mentions our problem and this guy recommends using thinner oil so the oil gets to cam gears through the 'vanes' sooner and doesn't cause the 1-2 second rattle. I currently use Penrite 5w40 and I am now thinking of using a thinner oil. But how thin can i go for this sort of engine? What do you guys recommend I try? You DIY Auto Thick oil and the VVT-i startup tick If you own a late model Toyota you may have noticed a 1-2 second ticking noise at startup. While there could be other mechanical problems, most of the time the culprit is a stuck/locked VVT-i controller. What can I do to resolve this? In some cases its an actual controller failure. But for most its oil selection. Its called Variable Valve Timing because its always running. From the second the engine starts, VVT is attempting to adjust to conditions. When it can't, gets stuck, it will tick for 1-2 seconds. Unlike Honda's VTEC that uses two sets of cam shaft profiles – one for low and mid range rpm and another for high rpm operation, VVT camshaft timing is varied using oil pressure according to engine revolutions, throttle position, engine coolant temperature and intake air volume. VVT operation depends on hydraulic oil pressure that arrives through a long winding path of tiny oil passages. So tiny they are known as "vanes". Its critical the system stays clean. Its critical the system maintains proper oil flow and pressure as fast as possible to prevent that annoying startup tick. Proper lubrication comes from a combination of oil pressure, flow, and film strength between moving parts. Oil pressure by itself is no indication of proper engine lubrication. Oil pressure is managed by the oil pump and relief valve. Thick oil will have higher pressure because there is more resistance to flow. Too high and it will flow out the oil pump relief valve back to the sump, lubricating nothing including the VVT system. As stated above, thick oil will have higher pressure because there is more resistance to flow. Add that to the tiny "vanes" of the VVT system and you have a oil flow lag as compared to the rest of the engine. By as much as 1-2 seconds. No coincidence that's the duration of the noise. Modern thin oils have better flow, better viscosity modifiers to manage film strength. That means better lubrication and cooling, keeping pressure within spec. Tthin as possible is a good thing, especially for the VVT-i system.. "Thin as possible" meaning some older engines have mechanical issues like wear/higher tolerances, valve seals, rings, etc. causing oil consumption that may prevent its use.
  2. 2 points
    Gentlemen, First and foremost, many thanks to everyone who contributed to the U660E related topics here, your contribution was priceless. Secondly, don't hold me liable for anything below, it just "worked for me"(c). Stay safe at all time! So, decided it was about time to bite the bullet and service the transmission on the 2008 Aurion, with dropping the pan, replacing the filter and doing a full flush using the method through the cooler return line from the toyotanation DIY topic with Toyota genuine filter, gasket and o-ring (165aud, ripoff, a Ryco kit is ~50 on eBay or 55 @SCA!) and 3x4l drums of Penrite ATV LV from Repco, about 93aud in total on sale. Basically went like this: 1. Wait for the engine/trans to cool down a bit, chock the rear wheels and jack up the car. Make sure it's level using a 3aud leveller from Bunnings. I've eventually ended up using 3 axle stands, better safe than sorry! 2. Left front wheel off. Remove the 2 shields, lower left and side. Remove the overflow and drain plugs with the 6mm hex socket then drain the trans oil, about 2.8l came out. Then remove the bolts and dropped the pan, adding some more 3-400ml from the pan and filter in the disposal jug. @krigeroz, your home engineered special key to undo *that* bolt saved my day :) 3. Clean and degrease everything carefully, it's not an operation done weekly or monthly so having started around 10am I just took my time. 4. Install new filter with the o-ring and put the pan back up with the new gasket. *That* bolt kept me busy for about 15-20minutes but with a bit of cursing, swearing and a lot of luck I defeated it eventually. Replaced the drained and overflow plugs, but unfortunately at this stage I made the first and thankfully last beginner mistake: I snapped a pan bolt, the very last one tightened :( 5. Refill with 3.2l and start the engine, let it to idle for about 10-15 minutes and check for leaks, then turn the engine on. Take a break, stretch and get everything ready for the flush. 6. Disconnect the cooler return hose that goes into the transmission from the cooler end and connect a transparent vinyl tube that goes into a measuring jug. 7. Pump out / funnel in. Get DW to start the engine and pump 1litre of fluid out, then stop the engine. Note: after stopping the there's some extra 100-150ml coming out, need to account for that when doing it. Remove the filler 24mm plug labelled WS and pour 1 litre in (the first time I went with about 1.25l, better to be a bit over). Replace the refill plug hand tight. Repeat until new fluid comes out. All up, including the pan refill I've used 12 litres of Penrite ATF. Note: before pouring the 1 litre make sure the vinyl tube is firmly inserted into the refill hole. 8. Replace the refill plug hand tight and go through the fluid level check procedure. At this point the fluid should be well below the 40-45 Celsius degrees range. Here I used a jumper wire and shorted OBD2 pins 4 and 13 and verified the temperature with an infrared thermometer. Now, the part I was most afraid I wouldn't get right: With the car in P start the engine, the dash lights will start blinking like a Xmas tree indicating the car is in some diagnostic mode. Then: - Move the gear shift slowly into R, N, D. Then move to S and cycle slowly through all 1 to 6 gears. All necessary to circulate the fluid. Return to P and take few breaths, the next 6 seconds are important. - Move to D and cycle N-D-N-D once every 1.5seconds, should finish in ~6 seconds in D. The D light will remain on for 2 seconds, then go off. Move the gearshift back into P. Now the car in is in temperature detection mode and the trans fluid is below 40 degrees. Remove the jumper wire. Note: you don't have to be extremely accurate with the 1.5/6 seconds counting, you'll eventually get it right. Suggest practising the detection mode before doing the flush to become comfortable with the procedure. - Let the car idle, when the temperature reaches 40 degrees you can start checking the level. As soon as D light came on I went underneath to check the oil pan temperature with the infrared gun in several points and got 38-39 degrees readings, so off by few degrees which was acceptable for me. With the engine running removed the overflow plug and the fluid started to trickle, meaning I was bang on with the refill. Replaced the overflow plug and tightened it, followed by tightening the refill plug. Done! Note: if the D light starts blinking it means the oil is above 45 degrees, you must stop the engine, let it cool down and start again. - Stop the engine, re-check all the pan bolts, check for leaks, then reinstall the shields. Replace the front wheel. - Remove the funnel & vinyl tube, then the tools / pan / rags / dropsheets / other objects from underneath the car, make sure no curious kids are stuffing around, then lower the car. Tighten the wheel nuts at 76lbs and remove the wheel. Look around the car, hopefully no parts / bolts / clips left around. Job done, time to praise yourself you've only ended up with one snapped bolt. - Go on a drive to test your work, if possible including suburban, coasting and freeway. When returning back home check for leaks again. Essential points and lessons learned: - Take your time, don't rush. - Read and reread the toyotanation.com topic and this one until everything is clear and follows a logical workflow. - Practise the temperature detection mode beforehand. - Don't over-tighten the pan bolts. The manual says 8nm torque which is extremely light. - Use dropsheets & rags in abundance, it does get messy. - Have extra shield clips handy, I broke 2 out of 3 from the lower left shield. See here the U250 and U660 repair manual, pages 55-57 for the U660 filling procedure. Thank you all again, you're a great bunch of selfless people :)
  3. 2 points
    Another quick update on the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tyres fitted to my 2010 SX Sportivo. I have now done almost 10,000km and have just checked and rotated my tyres. As per usual I've carefully measured the tread depth and it is as follows: Front Left is 4.5mm Front Right is 5mm Rear Left is 6mm Rear Right is 6mm These PS4s were fitted at 75930km and checked and rotated today at 85794km. Wear is even across the tyre and they still grip very well, especially in the wet! I'm very happy with these Michelins, the wear rate seems to have slowed, (and even stopped on the rears!!!) Have noticed a little more harshness creeping in on some of our dodgy roads that I frequently travel,( or maybe the Local Council is getting slack with repairs!!! ) I would highly recommend them as a great replacement tyre in the std 215/55ZR17-98W size.
  4. 2 points
    Or look up Neil Trama Engineering on Facebook. Neil
  5. 2 points
    I spent a bit of time [ internet searching ] looking into brake pads and rotors for better braking performance. Ended up coming across a YouTube video by ChrisFix https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZltSorr9W0 Good quality tyres make a big difference to shortening the braking distance. Only buy known quality brand tyres. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbMti7VQC1k Got my own personal experience with bargain Chinese brand tyres namely Talon and Goodride which has confirmed the above.
  6. 1 point
    Hey Guys, Though Id introduce to my new Ride "Lucy" a sexy Aurora Gold 07 ZR6 have had her 8 weeks and all I can say is wow :) I should have bought one of these a long time ago :)
  7. 1 point
    All good, found out it was a safety type sticker 😊
  8. 1 point
    A few months ago, there was a genuine Aurion TRD located in Sydney available on eBay for around/less than $10,000. You should be able to get an Aurion needing mechanical repairs quite cheaply for less than $4000. Hope you can get the TRD professionally repaired [no short cut dodged brothers budget throw together] for less than that figure. A few years, I bought a 1994/5 Honda Prelude [new price $55,000] from its second owner for $500. Previous owners' dream car but now someone else's renovation project. A vehicle that is on my current radar is the Kia Stinger with its turbocharged V6 plus the 2018 Toyota Camry V6. I am more likely to buy either of these vehicles in 10 years time than a 20 year old supercharged/turbocharged vehicle.
  9. 1 point
    Automatic ? If so . . . 10.4L/100km isn't uncommon, depends on driving style/conditions & perhaps tyre pressures ? @100km/h it's about 2250rpm, @ 110km/h I would guess between 2300-2350rpm.
  10. 1 point
    Hi, i am a new member here. We own a toyota hiace from 1985 that has been converted by TRAKKA into a pop-top campervan in 1985. Everything is still original and she runs beautifully and without any flaws. Want to look after her well. So far two out of two local mechanics were a disappointment. Any recommendations near Sydney Newtown or inner west for proper care and servicing for our oldie? Thanks. Martijn
  11. 1 point
    For various reasons, I am not a great fan of self-driving vehicles. Perhaps self-fulfilling bias, the recent UBER incident with a pedestrian death highlighted various flaws when rushing testing, cost-cutting and pushing a timeline. Those who have been following the various reports about this UBER incident will know what I am referring to. I found it interesting that in response, Toyota immediately stopped testing. I found the following URL somewhat reassuring about the testing approach used by Toyota and particularly the high costs involved for autonomous driving systems. https://phys.org/news/2018-04-toyota-plano-based-ceo-self-driving-cars.html?utm_source=quora
  12. 1 point
    Thanx KAA😊. Hopefully next week we will replace the steering lock ecu and get somewhere with her. If nothing else, it will have both my partner and I, knowing a lot more then what we did when we started. And that's always bonus! Will definatley post updates as we go😁. Cheers
  13. 1 point
    Thanks for the suggestions. We've had an industrial fan blowing in there since water came down trying to helping dry inside out. Didn't think to get heater blower in there but will definately grab one tomorrow, as well as pull the whole dash out. She would have been under for 6/7 hours. And watching her go under was heart breaking. Worst part was getting through high tide with water only coming halfway up the wheels and thinking she was going to be ok, to then being completely smashed and water rising around 15/20cm every twenty mins during low tide!! I actually had comprehensive insurance until two months ago when, due to unforseen life issues, couldn't afford to pay it any longer. I've had a look at the flood bags but couldnt find them in Australia, campbean. Maybe I'm not looking in the right place? Unfortunately we were not at home at the time it started to flood and by the time we got home it was 2am and no longer able to get her out. 4x4 accessible... just, but to high for the Aurion. All electrical connectors inside and out have been done with contact cleaner. Except what may be up behind the dash, but as i said, we will pull the rest of that tomorrow, grab a heater blower and stick that in there. At this point Im willing to give anything a go. Upside... at least my interior all looks amazing and clean now. I've got to take the upsides as i find them. It keeps my hope alive😉. Also, I'm female so i like shiny things. And I don't like to give up, which is just a stubborn nature thing, not a female thing. So not so much brave, Tony, just really really love my car and completely unwilling to give up at this point. My other half.... now that's a brave man!😂😂. Photo's are for anyone's curiosity purposes. Cheers guys!
  14. 1 point
    I replaced the park lights with cheapo super white LED one's off eBay. Can't remember brand but they were very very cheap and they're great. Pulled plastic wheel arch covers off and probably took 20 minutes a side. Less time next time as I know what I'm doing!
  15. 1 point
    Yep. Buy one of these and find the linkages in the door/boot. https://www.jaycar.com.au/car-boot-hatch-release/p/LR8834
  16. 1 point
    ok chaps thanks for the advice but i dont have a family and i would rather spend my money on my atx because at least it wont leave me, i have a little hilux as my daily driver an im thinking of going mental on the aurion
  17. 1 point
    I think you'll find its not easy to get more power out of an Aurion, and what power you can get, is generally not worth the time/cost.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    I'd never buy "Brand New". it is prudent to wait a couple of years to take advantage of depreciation and snare a low Klm vehicle at practically half the original price. That's what I did. I got my Aurion Prodigy with 40K on the odo at half what the original buyer paid for it.
  20. 1 point
    Thanks for your advice ZZT86. I was reading up a bit about the 86. Rear Wheel Drive, very nice. That is certainly an excellent car. I am sure you must like getting out on a country road in your 86 for a cruise. Regards justJuzz
  21. 1 point
    Which is a repanelled V6 Camry from every other dealer market.
  22. 1 point
    If you do a search on the forums re exhaust changes for the Aurion I think you will find that Toyota did a pretty good job with the standard exhaust. Trying to make it better/louder just results in a loss of performance and droaning. I would take it back to standard. Just my 2c worth.
  23. 1 point
    The absolute maximum I will go is 6 month/10,000km(which I never get close).
  24. 1 point
    I have previously read this article about Australian fuel quality. My thought at the time was that this could explain why latest engines are not being made available by manufactures i.e. Toyota for the Australian market. https://www.drive.com.au/motor-news/the-breakdown-australian-fuel-quality-and-emissions-20170519-gw98gf These engines have been under development for quite some years. Now becoming a reality before 2020 but not expecting Toyota to be adopting this technology until it is proven in production http://www.motortrend.com/news/variable-compression-rest-story/ https://www.autoblog.com/2017/11/28/2019-infiniti-qx50-variable-compression-ratio-engine/
  25. 1 point
    G'day I just picked up a one owner 1977 Stout that is still registered and garaged all its life and is in immaculate condition. The missus and kids are in luv with it too so its a win. I even have the original Rego & Insurance papers and check out the tool kit never been out of its bag along with the condition of the floor pans. Cheers Noz

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