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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/23/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I bought my aurion in 2015 brand new. Been a top car. I wanted a little more performance out of it. I have a K&N filter and also just did the exhaust collector mod. The standard pipe squishes together and very restrictive right where you want it to flow. We moved the flex pipe further back and had two pipes into a larger collector Professional workshop did it and its a top quality job. Car goes a fair bit better. 1st gear it just spins the tyres (235 tyres on 17 inch wheels). Massive axle tramp. Its definately making more torque and power. It just feels more urgent, like your driving downhill all the time. Might even get fuel efficiency gains Best thing is it sounds completely stock. I will try attach pictures.
  2. 3 points
    Hey TOCA, This has previously been discussed a long time ago about porting the intake manifold on the 2ZZ (specifically the Sportivo manifold as it can be split into 2 pieces). Well, I’m writing this as a review of a ported intake manifold after recently purchasing and installing one. Many people may think that porting the manifold is a waste of time and that you might as well go down the route of turbo or supercharging, or to go for an aftermarket manifold such as the DDP manifold. This is not to cause controversy by any means but is to simply get the information out there for more people to develop their N/A 2ZZ’s to the very best. This what is done to the manifold in regards to porting. The runners are left as is, this is specifically within the plenum and prior to the runners that are cleaned up and ported. I know this might deter people into thinking ‘it’s not a fully ported manifold’, but please keep reading through. The manifold runners are removed and the plenum section is cut open to begin the work. Within the plenum section of stock 2 piece manifold, you will see 2 pillars that are within the manifold that affect air flow to each runner. These are cut out and the remaining metal ground down to reduce any flow interruption into the runners. On top of the plenum, you will see velocity stacks at the of the runners. From Toyota, the casting is poorly completed, Leaving what resembles slanted donuts throughout various manifolds. These are ground down and evened out to increase flow. Comparisons between a stock intake manifold and a port manifold. The combination of the improved velocity stacks and the removal of the pillars is what is completed in terms of the porting on my particular manifold. Now, having this done I can provide what to expect with this style of ported manifold. Once installed, I started the car and checked for any strange noises, leaks etc. With no issues, I let the car warm up and took it for a spin. The first impression was that down low is almost the same as before, I did notice that the response had increased nicely and the revs climb a lot smoother and quicker than before. I decided to do a quick pull from 1st and another rolling in 2nd to get an idea of the gains. Both pulls went to the start of 3rd so within the speed limit. In first gear you notice there is no dip whatsoever in power, it’s smooth all the way until fuel cut and the revs climb a lot faster than before. Even in between gear changes, there doesn’t seem to be the slow rev climb back to fuel cut now. It continues to remain smooth. Another major change noticed was how loud the intake noise became. The crossover into lift is quite loud and very pronounced and at roughly 7000 and beyond it has a nice growl resonating through the intake, currently a 2.75” intake. For comparison's sake to make a little more sense, the sensational increase of power between a short ram intake or stock air box compared to a cold air intake. It’s that gain, on top if that makes sense. As it is a noticeable by the pants gain, it would definitely be evident on a dyno. Overall, I’m super happy with the ported manifold. For those that don’t want to read the whole thing and want a TLDR; installed ported manifold, increased response, increased torque and power, smoother power band, fast rev climb, loud intake sound. You may as well read the the whole review though to get a better understanding of what to expect if you’re really considering going towards porting. My mods are linked in my signature for those wondering what I have done to my car. If anyone is serious and genuinely interested in getting a ported manifold done, please send me a message and I can provide further details into getting this done. Thanks for reading! Sorry for the bold font (can't change it for some reason 🤔)
  3. 3 points
  4. 3 points
    UPDATE!! New tvs 1900 supercharger has been installed for almost a week now just havent had time to post it up. Let me say it was not an easy job at all and alot there is a fair bit of modification required as the supercharger hits the bonnet just slightly. The hardest bit of the whole job was to get the manifold off the original supercharger once manifold was off the car. It is held down with allen screws that are very tight and the moment u try to put any kind of allen key on them it just threads the heads. Had to end up drilling them out which took hours to try and not damage the manifold because the angle of which you habe to sit the drill to try and cut away at the screws is just a painnn. Bonnet had to be cut throttle body adaptor on the s/c had to be fliped intake modified and a whole bunch of hoses replaced for longer one. Dont get me wrong the car feels good now some more power there but without a tune yet the car i feel just wants to detune its self. I also ended up installing a boost gauge which im happy about i managed to drill a boost tap into the manifold while it was off the car so wen im pushing it foot to floor gauge is ready 10psi thats with a 90mm pulley i also have an 80mm pulley but will prob install it wen i go to tune it. This was all done at my place mechanic came past and i was helping him with what i could. The new s/c was powder coated black colour i ended up paying some high temp spray paint and sprayed it red its abit patchy now coz some of the paint got scratched off but ill touch it up. surprisingly the colour is very very close to orignal. I also got my hands on an original trd s/c decal wasnt cheap!!! But atleast it will handle the heat.
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    Anytime my friend. No point in holding back info when someone needs it. I only don't reply to a thread if I don't have relevant info 😂😂
  7. 2 points
    Thanks! Yeah the headlights are the factory HID ones with AFS. I would like to go for the facelift headlights that have the daytime running lamp built into the bottom, but they're $$$$. Vland have just released a new full LED headlight for this model which is very different, but I'm on the fence at the moment. Couple more pics that for some reason wouldn't work on the previous post:
  8. 2 points
    ive fixed a few of these engines and have one in my Lotus race car , so i'll try to educate some of you. the engines are quite simple to rebuild by modern engine standards however the timing chain set up is quite horrible and nearly all internal parts are horribly expensive, even non-genuine stuff. it would no longer be cost effective to fully recondition a stock engine in a stock Aurion as the value of the car is bugger-all. The TRD model uses an identical core engine but of course its worth a lot more due to the other stuff. A basic rings and bearings "refresh" is still expensive due to the silly $ asked for gaskets sets and the man-hours requires to strip and reassemble The con-rods are sintered metal, not forged. they are a well-known failure point in highly modified engines, but rarely give trouble in stock engines. The pistons are eutectic alloy, so quite tough for a high performance production engine and good enough for Toyota to accept them for the Aurion supercharged engine, albeit with low boost. Forged pistons and rods are always a good idea for highly modified engines because they will suffer a lot more abuse. Several vendors offer them who-ever dreamed up this idea of rating conrods by HP is having a lend of you as its purely a marketing gimmick. in my engine building experiences, i've seen $50 chinese "forged" conrods work perfectly ok in 300HP/litre turbo engines... its the bolts that usually fail so if they have good bolts, and are properly machined, they are usually perfectly OK. I worked with ACL to get the race series bearings made for this engine, but they wont make up for other deficiencies like sintered conrods i'll try to assist anyone with a specific tech question
  9. 2 points
    Alright time for another update! So in the last 2 weeks, I've had some nice new major mods added to car. After a lot of thought on the existing setup, it was time for a change. The two major changes are a ported intake manifold and the change from CES ported headers to a custom designed, 4-1 header best known by the very few who know as the Chuned 4-1s. What began life as mere pipes. Was quickly turned into the 4-1 headers I got, within a week. I know you must think they don't look anything special to look at but, the design is extremely well thought out for the best possible gains for an N/A setup. Let's begin with last Sunday. I headed over to my mate Alec's place to get the manifold installed. Since he'd also got one and installed it a few days earlier, he was pretty familiar with what needed to go. Within the hour, the stock manifold was out and the new manifold was installed, along with the throttle body getting cleaned out. Massive thanks to Alec again for always helping me out with the bigger jobs. Manifold off. New intake manifold on, not too much different on the outside. Here is the main difference you can see from the throttle body side of the intake manifold, stock vs ported. I will be making a separate thread discussing the ported manifold and what is completed since I could really go into some serious detail with it. In short, after the manifold was installed, the response, torque down low and mid range along with top end improved excellently. The change in intake note crossing over into lift is quite a lot louder and very pronounced. There's always time for quick shot together, featuring the new apprentice. As of yesterday, I was up nice an early to head over to get the head over to the exhaust shop to get the headers fitted. Arriving just on time to begin the install. The process was to re-use the old cat, remove the stock headers and pipe before the cat so the new headers could be fitted along with a flex joint for extra piece of mind. The only issue was having 2 resonators quite close made the job a little more difficult but luckily enough, I was still able to retain both of the resonators. 4-1 collector. All finished up and ready to go! Once the install was done, I was very eager to hear the sound change and get driving. Turning it over for the first time, there was no noticeable change in idle note but, once applying some throttle driving you could hear the rushing of air through the headers along with a nice rumble and deeper note down low. Once getting over 4000 RPM you could hear a nice change in exhaust note getting a lot more raspy and than getting to the 5800 RPM crossover where lift screamed. Due the car been tuned for the previous setup without the ported intake manifold and 4-1 headers, a re-tune was definitely necessary. Luckily enough, earlier in the month while ordering the parts, my mate Ed planned to be in Sydney for the weekend which made it easy to pick the header install date. So after the header install, I headed over to visit Ed and we began to work over the tune. After quite a few pulls in the low RPM and high RPM ranges, Ed and I found the 5800 lift to be leaving a noticeable flat spot from 6000-6200 RPM where the power peaked initially before flattening and picking up again. We decided to raise the lift point to 6000 rpm to test and we found this to be a perfect point after some fine tuning was before and after lift to make the power band a lot more linear. Despite having quite a full car with extra parts and other unnecessary things, a 34 degree day with high humidity, the car has improved extremely well all round. Even less throttle input is needed, I can keep the car in a higher gear on hills and inclines with no issues, the power and torque improvements with the 4-1 design and of course the new roar of the beast! The new headers have really brought the 2ZZ to life. I'm really over the moon with the new setup and I'm super keen to get more kilometers down. These new mods wouldn't have happened without the R&D and hard work that Ed has put into both the intake manifold and headers. A massive thank you to Ed for all the hard work getting these parts ready to go in such a short time with no issues what so ever. As we approach the end of the year, I definitely want to keep driving over the Christmas break to enjoy the new setup. I will more than likely do an oil change next weekend before I get too busy along with hopefully giving the car a bath. Stay tuned until next time!
  10. 2 points
    I used the above approach rather than remove the intake and replace gaskets. Started at 4:30pm and paused at 7:30pm after replacing the spark plugs and ignition coils for the rear bank then reassembling. Probably could have saved 30 minutes by being better organized and having to find better quality 6 point socket and breaker bar to undo 2 of the nuts on the passenger side strut mount. Surprisingly, driver's side strut mount nuts came undone quite readily. Only took 20-30 minutes to replace the spark plugs and ignition coils for the front bank.
  11. 2 points
    Basically a couple of muppets felt their switch was a bit sticky so they took it upon themselves to open up the board and lubricate it. Unfortunately what they used was high flammable and caught fire. During the recall the master switch assy is tested, re-greased and anti tamper screws fitted to fend off average joe from taking it upon themselves to attempt to fix things again in the future.
  12. 2 points
    Hi everyone - first time poster here but long time Toyota owner (mostly 4wds though) and some Cressidas a long time ago. Recently bought a pretty cheap ($4k) 06 Presara (200k) that I'm doing up for a family member and as bit of a project for myself. Thought I share my experience as I have a lot of the common issues mentioned in this forum which has helped me greatly thanks. It's been fun working through the issues over the last couple of weeks. I haven't done a car project for years. The door open alarm 'bing bing bing' drives me mad. First job was to remove the cluster and put a self tapping screw into the piezo buzzer. Done this task many a time over the years. Bad Steering wheel shake at highway speeds - didn't drive it fast enough in my test drive to spot this but was an easy fix. The previous owner must have parked in some mud in the past with the front left wheel semi submerged. Mass buildup on the inside of the wheel. A quick wheel removal and a clean solved the issue but I put new (quality) tyres on anyway for safety's sake. Transmission flare on cold starts with gear changes (3-4). Still working on this. I see this is a common issue from way back. ECU change perhaps. Mine is the V2 ECU already though I seen they've updated the ECU again for this model as I've seen a later part number. I'm scratching my head here wondering if I should bother trying to fix it. Transmission in desperate need of a full flush. I've done this many times over the years to many vehicles but this transmissions took 16 Litres of Penrite LV to start clearing up. Other than the 3-4 flare on cold starts - the tranny runs really well. I haven't dropped the pan to change the filter yet. I did the flush via the transmission cooler hoses if anyone was wondering. 2 Litres at a time. Easy peasy. A couple of the buttons didn't work on the steering wheel. Seen this before in my Prado. Ordered a replacement clockspring assembly from ebay for 50 bucks. All working now. Had to swap over the steering angle sensor with the new part. Overall a 30 min job. Engine start rattle on cold starts. VVTi actuator I suspected thanks to this forum. Didn't notice it on my test drive but noticed on the other 3 or 4 Aurions I test drove of similar vintage. A couple of engine oil flushes has solved the issue for now - I was surprised. I think there maybe other servicing issues as this engine maybe 'sludged'. Engine does runs very well though - it goes hard (I'm used to diesel 4WDs). The engine bay and underneath are very tidy so it hasn't been totally neglected. White engine smoke on engine restarts. I first thought this was exhaust system condensation - looks like it but it does it during the middle of the day only after the car had been sitting for time. I'm heading down the replacement PCV valve and front rocker cover sludge clean route. Doesn't look like oil smoke though. More like water vapour but it's not using any water. I haven't spent much time working on the issue yet. Minor clear coat issue on the left side of the roof near the B pillar. A can of DIY 2K clear coat will solve this hopefully. Minor steering 'notch' when moving slowly and turning. Seems to be another common issue. Can barely feel it though. Intermediate shaft perhaps. When the car engine is off and I move the steering from left to right I can also hear a slight knocking sound somewhere underneath. Not sure if this is related to the notch I feel. Bushes or something? More time needed for root cause. Parking sensors constantly beeping when activated. This was related to the bumper scrapes on the vehicle corners - exactly where the sensors sit. Previous owner has knocked 2 of them inside the bumper. I pushed them back out and held them in with a little adhesive. All working now. Sticky dashboard. Dash mat is the solution/mask for the time being. I'll keep a eye out at the wreckers for a replacement for cheap. The ones I've found so far have the same issue. Missing spare smart key. Got a cheap replacement fob off ebay. Programmed with Techstream and hidden key cut locally. All good. Need to check if this engine has the original VVTi oil line rubber hose or steel tube replacement. Park brake doesn't work in reverse. Some tweaking was required to get this working OKish. Still not great. Won't hold well on my quite steep driveway. Not an maintenance issue - but will replace the Factory Headunit (with Sat) with something more modern. Looks like there are at least a few to choose from and are reasonably priced. Water leak, when raining, in the boot space in the spare tyre well. Got a replacement rubber seal from a wreckers for 20 buck. All good now. Knocking sound coming from rear of vehicle when changing direction (forward to reverse). Was the jack hitting the frame ever so slightly. Easy fix - simply remove jack. Or secure it properly :) Update. Add another issue in there - this time the alternator. Looks like low charge especially when idling. I was idling the car for quite some time doing some stuff and the stereo cut out and a few dash lights came on with the engine still running. Shut the engine down and the battery voltage was 11.90V. Not good. Overall the car drives really well now and inside is a nice place to be as long as you know where you're going and don't need to use the archaic and frustrating Nav system.
  13. 2 points
    Short answer is YES, the 70 Series sits on the new TNGA platform (Same as C-HR & new Corolla) the wheelbase is longer, track wider, and weight lower making the balance of the car notably better. The SL has a reasonably soft suspension tune so rides well on 18" wheels but it also turns in and controls the body well. it's defiantly a more engaging and enjoyable car to drive. In the past you wouldn't have bothered trying to drive any Camry or Aurion "Spiritedly" other than the Sportivo/ TRD variants where as with this model you could have fun in any variant.
  14. 2 points
    This is actually my third Toyota. Before I bought a Hyundai I owned 2 Corollas in a row, the first a 1987 hatch back manual and the second a 1998 Corolla Seca csi manual. The Hyundai I bought was a mistake. As I've said elsewhere, I've heard Hyundai cars have improved a great deal in quality but I decided not to buy another one. I'm sure a brand new Hyundai, maybe an Elantra or a Sonata, would've been a big improvement over my old car but I just felt I wanted a Toyota again. I was going to test drive a new Corolla, with CVT, as well but I test drove a Camry first and it just felt right for me. I'm a tall guy and after being stuck with a Hyundai Accent for so long the Camry just felt so comfortable. This Camry is also the first automatic car I've ever owned. Being larger than my previous car, driving the Camry after I bought it at first almost felt like I was "driving a boat". I honestly don't know how I would've coped without the proximity sensors, especially the cross traffic alert as I reverse out of my garage. Also, the inside of the Camry seemed like a spaceship compared to my previous car. But I'm used to it now. I'm 55 and I'm currently working casually, after getting my degree at the age of 50. I needed a car that was much more reliable than my old car as well as being more comfortable to drive and not too expensive to own over the long run. I'm very happy to be the owner of a Toyota again.
  15. 2 points
    Changing the battery to a new one didnt really help in my case. I have also noticed if i keep the start switch at ON position for about 8 seconds before starting the noise does not come but that is just coincidence. Now i did find this article online that actually mentions our problem and this guy recommends using thinner oil so the oil gets to cam gears through the 'vanes' sooner and doesn't cause the 1-2 second rattle. I currently use Penrite 5w40 and I am now thinking of using a thinner oil. But how thin can i go for this sort of engine? What do you guys recommend I try? You DIY Auto Thick oil and the VVT-i startup tick If you own a late model Toyota you may have noticed a 1-2 second ticking noise at startup. While there could be other mechanical problems, most of the time the culprit is a stuck/locked VVT-i controller. What can I do to resolve this? In some cases its an actual controller failure. But for most its oil selection. Its called Variable Valve Timing because its always running. From the second the engine starts, VVT is attempting to adjust to conditions. When it can't, gets stuck, it will tick for 1-2 seconds. Unlike Honda's VTEC that uses two sets of cam shaft profiles – one for low and mid range rpm and another for high rpm operation, VVT camshaft timing is varied using oil pressure according to engine revolutions, throttle position, engine coolant temperature and intake air volume. VVT operation depends on hydraulic oil pressure that arrives through a long winding path of tiny oil passages. So tiny they are known as "vanes". Its critical the system stays clean. Its critical the system maintains proper oil flow and pressure as fast as possible to prevent that annoying startup tick. Proper lubrication comes from a combination of oil pressure, flow, and film strength between moving parts. Oil pressure by itself is no indication of proper engine lubrication. Oil pressure is managed by the oil pump and relief valve. Thick oil will have higher pressure because there is more resistance to flow. Too high and it will flow out the oil pump relief valve back to the sump, lubricating nothing including the VVT system. As stated above, thick oil will have higher pressure because there is more resistance to flow. Add that to the tiny "vanes" of the VVT system and you have a oil flow lag as compared to the rest of the engine. By as much as 1-2 seconds. No coincidence that's the duration of the noise. Modern thin oils have better flow, better viscosity modifiers to manage film strength. That means better lubrication and cooling, keeping pressure within spec. Tthin as possible is a good thing, especially for the VVT-i system.. "Thin as possible" meaning some older engines have mechanical issues like wear/higher tolerances, valve seals, rings, etc. causing oil consumption that may prevent its use.
  16. 1 point
    Depending how many mods you plan on doing, you have to decide what size piping and what material to use. Most go for 2.5" piping with mild steel, which does reduce rasp somewhat compared to stainless but will have a shorter life span compared to stainless. There are gains to be had with 2.25" exhausts but it's not too much bigger than stock, the main advantage would be the additional flow without restrictions added. I run 2.5" mild press bent, which does cause some restriction but I haven't reached the limits of needing mandrel bent as of yet. Generally moving to high flow cat can get some occasional pops, I have previously ran stock ported headers now on custom 4-1s headers and they still pop every no and than. So look into getting a high flow cat if you have the funds. I have seen some with stock cats also pop occasionally as they do flow reasonably well for a standard item. You will also need to consider the muffler as this completes the sound and will help greatly with flow. Generally the pops are just un-burnt fuel that gets ignited in the exhaust system. I recall even my completely stock exhaust system did it from time to time. EDIT: I completely forgot to mention resonators/hot dog mufflers. I run 2 and this reduces the rasp a fair bit. A budget method many user with 2.5" piping is the VE commodore V6 resonator, as it's 2.5" inside I believe, is cheap and is quite long too. Resonators can reduce the rasp greatly depending on how big, the type and how many you use.
  17. 1 point
    1967 Toyota Lite Stout East Brisbane, Queensland I am the second owner and I don't need it any more. It has amazingly small amount of surface rust as it was kept in a shed for its first 48 years. Will be sold with a road worthy. Refurbed steel and timber tray. As you would know, it's a very are model. Original wheels and tyres will be sold with. $9,000.00 Contract CRAIG 0403 947 296
  18. 1 point
    On the left hand side of the center console, there is a small circle behind the hinge where the spring mounts onto. The spring can than be placed on the flap like the picture attached, you can see how it mounts roughly.
  19. 1 point
    You may be interested in the latest 3 day special from SuperCheap Auto; Shell Helix HX8 Engine Oil - 5W-30 5 Litre https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/shell-shell-helix-hx8-engine-oil---5w-30-5-litre/373035.html?j=3969286&sfmc_sub=25368615&sub=205970513_SCA01_CRP&l=333_HTML&u=74336249&mid=6010680&jb=411&utm_source=email&utm_medium=email-subscriber&utm_campaign=C_SCA01_2019_WK28_2DD
  20. 1 point
    I thought that I would share the following YouTube video because I agree with his practice of changing the oil filter mid-way through an extended service interval. I particularly noted his recommendation of reducing the service interval and a higher oil viscosity with the increased mileage. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lUA1YgoF1U
  21. 1 point
    Hey mate add the Facebook group perth aurions
  22. 1 point
    Hi i have a trd aurion supercharger complete kit for sale. Item: trd supercharger kit Location:sydney (nsw) Website: Item Condition: used Reason for Selling:had it for a project but no longer going ahead Price and Payment conditions: $3500 paypal Any additional information: perfect running order with ecu pulley assembly transmission cooler drive belt blower and intake manifold with injectors and ruel rail. Everything needed to supercharge your N/A AURION or other 2grfe motor. Shipping: can ship at buyers expense Pictures: Contact Details: Contact adam 0414186627. Prefer text please.
  23. 1 point
    I spoke to ssc and mwr they say we normally always do rods and pistons but they have never actually had a problem with the rods ever only pistons so i think im going to just go for the pistons only and rebuild the motor its already alot of money the rebuilder said look your not build a 600hp car to go hard on the rods he doesnt think i will need them but definatley said pistons.
  24. 1 point
    Just wanted to follow up on this post by saying Toyota has graciously agreed to replace all the fuel injectors. So impressed with the support they have extended to me. Thankyou Toyota!
  25. 1 point
    loose engine mount? No need to go to specialist, should be easy to find out on the dyno, with one person looking at the engine
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Even better water to air, it comes with a tune for the lotus, just waiting to hear back to see if they can reflash the stock Trd aurion ecu, they did it first so they may have access, this alone saves 3-5 grand + dyno for after market ecu,
  28. 1 point
    G'day and thanks for the welcome. Given Maggy was a 2003 and <to be named> is 2015, there's a huge difference in factory "standard". I'd kept most things stock and well looked after, but had reworked the sound system in Maggy with mostly Alpine and Parrot gear and it was great. There's not a whole lot to do in the Aurion except speaker upgrade and standard speaker out to line and amp it. I don't want to lose the vehicle config like auto lock @ 30km/h (this is great when you have kids/wife and they drive at night). The 6 speakers (2 x sets of 6x9) is pretty slick which will give plenty of fill plus some low end. Just gotta figure out how to get the dash console out, rear parcel self (frigged around with this last night to fit an anchor for the booster seat - both the anchor and trim are missing on the RHS but centre and right are there) and door trim off. Have looked around the forum so far but most is for the GSV40 so there is subtle differences. There's a fair more road noise than I was used to from the Magna *but* all the other make/models I test drove were very similar including the Commodore Sports wagon. Granted too, I cam from 15" factory alloys to the 18" on this. Also found while taking trying to recover a spacer from fitting the car seat anchor that most of the sound deadening is styrofoam, not thick underlay and carpet. I can't hold that against the car at all since it's a change in attitude in manufacturing. SUVs were shight [sic]!!! Terrible gear boxes and rev'ed through the roof from a slow crawl up hill which is why I wanted the Aurion with the V6. It handles well (sticks and feels solid and responsive) and the gear changes are smooth.I did have torque converter lockup in Maggy and had that in my previous one too, but for $2k to fix I didn't worry about it for many years in this one but did in my previous. That's a nice change in the Aurion especially maintaining speed up hill. I hardly do many kms and she's in the garage at home and underground at work so I'm hoping <to be named> will be with me for a while too. Looks like <to be named> was an ex-police or similar vehicle. 80k kms @ $19k. A little on the high side, but for the Sportivo and grey, I was comfortable to pay the slight extra as there isn't a lot of selection as they aren't an easy vehicle or vintage to find. Plus the dealer took my trade and the cost of <to be named> was the same with or without the trade which their transparency there was great. They slightly upped the trade and helped me with cash flow with a partial credit card payment which all added up in savings of time which reduced the overall hassle and other expenses, so +/- it all worked out!
  29. 1 point
    just spoke to Harrop, they say pre charger injection has been done, but they don’t recommend it as it washes the grease out of the needle roller bearings, and breaks down the coating on the rotars, I’m going to go post charger, was thinking about placing a nozzle on the front of the intake manifold to hit the air as it leaves the charger.
  30. 1 point
    on paper yes, its 112kw, at that time it was stock - 90.1 kw theres quite a bit of things i need to update.. or a lot haha ..... last post 2014... ill give you one update now though.. from 90.1w -> 98.7kw updated pictures to come !! 😄 EDIT: Front page updated modlist
  31. 1 point
    Also have more piks of the bonnet where i had to cut it.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum Bru KAA
  34. 1 point
    Hey Guys, Though Id introduce to my new Ride "Lucy" a sexy Aurora Gold 07 ZR6 have had her 8 weeks and all I can say is wow :) I should have bought one of these a long time ago :)
  35. 1 point
    The before and after shots. It's on SportsRyder springs.
  36. 1 point
    Have a look at what are the most common wheel sizes for the available Toyota rims you're looking to get. 215s already have heaps of grip, ever 205s are plenty. Larger side wall will give you a smoother ride, smaller side wall will feel slightly more rigid but more responsive. I'd chose the most common size as it would be cheaper and less hassle to find good rubber for them.
  37. 1 point
    Hello, Just purchased myself a 2016 Camry Hybrid. Got it Wednesday, serviced on Thursday and taken away for the weekend on a 800km trip. Used 1/2 a tank and measured consumption as 5.88l/100km. Fantastic stuff. Cheers, Andrew.
  38. 1 point
    Try this dude = not specifically 2WD but mostly still applicable. They are not "unbreakable" but they are close.... & certainly as far as parts & maintenance goes they are pretty a simple machine with good life expectancy as long as you maintain them. Just search by the specific model you like & you will find tons of data Rgds G.
  39. 1 point
    Here you go ...... Description of defect: Metal debris may have been generated from factory machining operations as part of the manufacturing of the engine crankshaft which may not have been completely removed from the crankshaft’s oil passages during the cleaning process. In addition, the machining processes of the crankpins caused an uneven surface roughness. As a result, the metal debris and uneven surface roughness can restrict oil flow to the bearings, thereby increasing bearing temperatures causing premature bearing wear. A worn connecting rod bearing will produce a cyclic knocking noise from the engine and may also result in the illumination of the engine warning lamp and/or oilpressure lamp in the instrument panel. If the warnings are ignored and the vehicle is continued to be driven, the bearing may fail and the vehicle could stall while in motion. Description of safety risk: An engine stall at higher speeds can increase the risk of a crash Identification of any warning that can occur: Illumination of the engine warning lamp and / or oil pressure warning lamp and / or knocking noise from engine.
  40. 1 point
    A few months ago, there was a genuine Aurion TRD located in Sydney available on eBay for around/less than $10,000. You should be able to get an Aurion needing mechanical repairs quite cheaply for less than $4000. Hope you can get the TRD professionally repaired [no short cut dodged brothers budget throw together] for less than that figure. A few years, I bought a 1994/5 Honda Prelude [new price $55,000] from its second owner for $500. Previous owners' dream car but now someone else's renovation project. A vehicle that is on my current radar is the Kia Stinger with its turbocharged V6 plus the 2018 Toyota Camry V6. I am more likely to buy either of these vehicles in 10 years time than a 20 year old supercharged/turbocharged vehicle.
  41. 1 point
    I agree ZZT86..Tech is wonderful if it enhances the drive..The future is exciting if we are in control, to feel the road, feel the power, hear the roar and arrive enjoying the experience. Lets hope that the day doesn't come for a while when we MUST not take the wheel KAA
  42. 1 point
    ^^ that looks sensational provided it's reliable. I'm all for any tech that increases driver enjoyment & safety, not ruin it.
  43. 1 point
    I confirmed this the other day in my 2001 Azura V6 - 100kmh = 2300rpm & 110kmh = b/w 2500-2550 rpm which means @Hiro was spot on ;) The tacho isn't the easiest thing to read on this vehicle. My car has only just ticked over 105K kms & has new B/S tyres, speed almost dead accurate against GPS within about 2kmh which is strange for any car let alone a Toyota.
  44. 1 point
    Simple maths will tell you that if it's 2250rpm @ 100km/h, then going 10% faster (110km/h) will increase the revs to just under 2500rpm.
  45. 1 point
    If that helps, on the stock calipers I'm running for ~2000Km now RDA7686 rotors with Bendix General CT DB2243 pads, decent braking, zero noise and virtually no dust.
  46. 1 point
    Started the custom crossmember.
  47. 1 point
    Interested to hear from other members any tricks or tips for removing spark plugs. One useful tip from a YouTube video was to use a length of rubber tubing to grip the spark plug which makes it easier to remove from a deep recess in the cylinder head. My main issue was trying to remove a long life iridium plug which has probably been fitted for about 5 years. I was only able to turn the plug about a 1/4 turn before it became stuck or very hard to turn. I used similar to WD-40 spray as a penetrating lubricant. After waiting a minute or so, I then tightened and loosened the spark plug but it was still hard to turn. Obviously not wanting to strip the thread in the alloy cylinder head, I then warmed the engine for a few minutes and checked YouTube for some hints. After turning off the engine, I gave the spark plug another good spray and waited a short time. Spark plug then turned a lot easier and was able to be removed.
  48. 1 point
    2017 ARC2 2wd Champions.
  49. 1 point
    It's that time once again for another update. So, not long after my last update I was lucky enough to be successful in getting a new job so I've been fairly busy recently. Just before I got my new job, I had ordered some new tyres as the fronts were pretty worn down. I never really rotated them so the fronts were on the wear indicators and the rears were fine. I went for the Michelin Pilot Sport 4's after reading countless reviews and having first hand experience driving my mates 300KW Skyline with the same tyres. I can definitely say, money well spent and would highly recommend them to anyone. I have also changed the profile and have moved to 205/50 over 205/45 which has now made my speedometer accurate again, instead of been about 5km/h to fast. So first impressions were that compared to my old RE002's, the road noise was significantly reduced which makes highway driving a lot more pleasant now. The car doesn't seem to wheel spin or lose grip no where near as easily as the RE002's, even when they were at near full tread. The same weekend I had the tyres fitted, I decided to go for a nice little national park run with my partner to give the tyres a real test. The new found grip was amazing and to be the honest the only limiting factor was myself not wanting to push harder. That same day on the way home on the motor way, my driver side guard liner decided that it wanted out. I've since pulled it out as it was damaged beyond repair and not worth keeping so I'm on the hunt for another one now. I paid Toyota a little visit and caught up with an awesome forum member too. Earlier this week as I had some time, I was able to get the car in for a service before I start my new job. The oil leak was still continuing so that was looked into. I had my new T2 DBA rotors and QFM HPX pads installed, new spark plugs, fresh oil, oil filter, new drive belt, tensioner inspected and its o-ring replaced (the seal was 'squared off'), MAF sensor cleaned and the chain inspected. Still as always happy with my local mechanics! Old spark plugs, have never replaced them until now. MAF before MAF after New discs front and rear. The car is now in perfect running order and has never felt smoother and safer to drive. Sadly, the oil leak returned after about 2 days so the car will be returning to the mechanics again on Friday to further check the source. It has been sourced around the timing case area which I know is common for 2ZZ's to leak so at least their job is a little easier now. Here's how the Sportivo currently sits after a wash earlier this week. Will keep the updates coming! Have a few little things coming later this year or earlier next year so stay tuned. I'll also be updating the photos not showing from photobucket to keep the thread updated :)
  50. 1 point
    G'day I just picked up a one owner 1977 Stout that is still registered and garaged all its life and is in immaculate condition. The missus and kids are in luv with it too so its a win. I even have the original Rego & Insurance papers and check out the tool kit never been out of its bag along with the condition of the floor pans. Cheers Noz

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