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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I bought my aurion in 2015 brand new. Been a top car. I wanted a little more performance out of it. I have a K&N filter and also just did the exhaust collector mod. The standard pipe squishes together and very restrictive right where you want it to flow. We moved the flex pipe further back and had two pipes into a larger collector Professional workshop did it and its a top quality job. Car goes a fair bit better. 1st gear it just spins the tyres (235 tyres on 17 inch wheels). Massive axle tramp. Its definately making more torque and power. It just feels more urgent, like your driving downhill all the time. Might even get fuel efficiency gains Best thing is it sounds completely stock. I will try attach pictures.
  2. 3 points
    Hey TOCA, This has previously been discussed a long time ago about porting the intake manifold on the 2ZZ (specifically the Sportivo manifold as it can be split into 2 pieces). Well, I’m writing this as a review of a ported intake manifold after recently purchasing and installing one. Many people may think that porting the manifold is a waste of time and that you might as well go down the route of turbo or supercharging, or to go for an aftermarket manifold such as the DDP manifold. This is not to cause controversy by any means but is to simply get the information out there for more people to develop their N/A 2ZZ’s to the very best. This what is done to the manifold in regards to porting. The runners are left as is, this is specifically within the plenum and prior to the runners that are cleaned up and ported. I know this might deter people into thinking ‘it’s not a fully ported manifold’, but please keep reading through. The manifold runners are removed and the plenum section is cut open to begin the work. Within the plenum section of stock 2 piece manifold, you will see 2 pillars that are within the manifold that affect air flow to each runner. These are cut out and the remaining metal ground down to reduce any flow interruption into the runners. On top of the plenum, you will see velocity stacks at the of the runners. From Toyota, the casting is poorly completed, Leaving what resembles slanted donuts throughout various manifolds. These are ground down and evened out to increase flow. Comparisons between a stock intake manifold and a port manifold. The combination of the improved velocity stacks and the removal of the pillars is what is completed in terms of the porting on my particular manifold. Now, having this done I can provide what to expect with this style of ported manifold. Once installed, I started the car and checked for any strange noises, leaks etc. With no issues, I let the car warm up and took it for a spin. The first impression was that down low is almost the same as before, I did notice that the response had increased nicely and the revs climb a lot smoother and quicker than before. I decided to do a quick pull from 1st and another rolling in 2nd to get an idea of the gains. Both pulls went to the start of 3rd so within the speed limit. In first gear you notice there is no dip whatsoever in power, it’s smooth all the way until fuel cut and the revs climb a lot faster than before. Even in between gear changes, there doesn’t seem to be the slow rev climb back to fuel cut now. It continues to remain smooth. Another major change noticed was how loud the intake noise became. The crossover into lift is quite loud and very pronounced and at roughly 7000 and beyond it has a nice growl resonating through the intake, currently a 2.75” intake. For comparison's sake to make a little more sense, the sensational increase of power between a short ram intake or stock air box compared to a cold air intake. It’s that gain, on top if that makes sense. As it is a noticeable by the pants gain, it would definitely be evident on a dyno. Overall, I’m super happy with the ported manifold. For those that don’t want to read the whole thing and want a TLDR; installed ported manifold, increased response, increased torque and power, smoother power band, fast rev climb, loud intake sound. You may as well read the the whole review though to get a better understanding of what to expect if you’re really considering going towards porting. My mods are linked in my signature for those wondering what I have done to my car. If anyone is serious and genuinely interested in getting a ported manifold done, please send me a message and I can provide further details into getting this done. Thanks for reading! Sorry for the bold font (can't change it for some reason 🤔)
  3. 3 points
  4. 3 points
    UPDATE!! New tvs 1900 supercharger has been installed for almost a week now just havent had time to post it up. Let me say it was not an easy job at all and alot there is a fair bit of modification required as the supercharger hits the bonnet just slightly. The hardest bit of the whole job was to get the manifold off the original supercharger once manifold was off the car. It is held down with allen screws that are very tight and the moment u try to put any kind of allen key on them it just threads the heads. Had to end up drilling them out which took hours to try and not damage the manifold because the angle of which you habe to sit the drill to try and cut away at the screws is just a painnn. Bonnet had to be cut throttle body adaptor on the s/c had to be fliped intake modified and a whole bunch of hoses replaced for longer one. Dont get me wrong the car feels good now some more power there but without a tune yet the car i feel just wants to detune its self. I also ended up installing a boost gauge which im happy about i managed to drill a boost tap into the manifold while it was off the car so wen im pushing it foot to floor gauge is ready 10psi thats with a 90mm pulley i also have an 80mm pulley but will prob install it wen i go to tune it. This was all done at my place mechanic came past and i was helping him with what i could. The new s/c was powder coated black colour i ended up paying some high temp spray paint and sprayed it red its abit patchy now coz some of the paint got scratched off but ill touch it up. surprisingly the colour is very very close to orignal. I also got my hands on an original trd s/c decal wasnt cheap!!! But atleast it will handle the heat.
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    Anytime my friend. No point in holding back info when someone needs it. I only don't reply to a thread if I don't have relevant info 😂😂
  7. 2 points
    Thanks! Yeah the headlights are the factory HID ones with AFS. I would like to go for the facelift headlights that have the daytime running lamp built into the bottom, but they're $$$$. Vland have just released a new full LED headlight for this model which is very different, but I'm on the fence at the moment. Couple more pics that for some reason wouldn't work on the previous post:
  8. 2 points
    ive fixed a few of these engines and have one in my Lotus race car , so i'll try to educate some of you. the engines are quite simple to rebuild by modern engine standards however the timing chain set up is quite horrible and nearly all internal parts are horribly expensive, even non-genuine stuff. it would no longer be cost effective to fully recondition a stock engine in a stock Aurion as the value of the car is bugger-all. The TRD model uses an identical core engine but of course its worth a lot more due to the other stuff. A basic rings and bearings "refresh" is still expensive due to the silly $ asked for gaskets sets and the man-hours requires to strip and reassemble The con-rods are sintered metal, not forged. they are a well-known failure point in highly modified engines, but rarely give trouble in stock engines. The pistons are eutectic alloy, so quite tough for a high performance production engine and good enough for Toyota to accept them for the Aurion supercharged engine, albeit with low boost. Forged pistons and rods are always a good idea for highly modified engines because they will suffer a lot more abuse. Several vendors offer them who-ever dreamed up this idea of rating conrods by HP is having a lend of you as its purely a marketing gimmick. in my engine building experiences, i've seen $50 chinese "forged" conrods work perfectly ok in 300HP/litre turbo engines... its the bolts that usually fail so if they have good bolts, and are properly machined, they are usually perfectly OK. I worked with ACL to get the race series bearings made for this engine, but they wont make up for other deficiencies like sintered conrods i'll try to assist anyone with a specific tech question
  9. 2 points
    Alright time for another update! So in the last 2 weeks, I've had some nice new major mods added to car. After a lot of thought on the existing setup, it was time for a change. The two major changes are a ported intake manifold and the change from CES ported headers to a custom designed, 4-1 header best known by the very few who know as the Chuned 4-1s. What began life as mere pipes. Was quickly turned into the 4-1 headers I got, within a week. I know you must think they don't look anything special to look at but, the design is extremely well thought out for the best possible gains for an N/A setup. Let's begin with last Sunday. I headed over to my mate Alec's place to get the manifold installed. Since he'd also got one and installed it a few days earlier, he was pretty familiar with what needed to go. Within the hour, the stock manifold was out and the new manifold was installed, along with the throttle body getting cleaned out. Massive thanks to Alec again for always helping me out with the bigger jobs. Manifold off. New intake manifold on, not too much different on the outside. Here is the main difference you can see from the throttle body side of the intake manifold, stock vs ported. I will be making a separate thread discussing the ported manifold and what is completed since I could really go into some serious detail with it. In short, after the manifold was installed, the response, torque down low and mid range along with top end improved excellently. The change in intake note crossing over into lift is quite a lot louder and very pronounced. There's always time for quick shot together, featuring the new apprentice. As of yesterday, I was up nice an early to head over to get the head over to the exhaust shop to get the headers fitted. Arriving just on time to begin the install. The process was to re-use the old cat, remove the stock headers and pipe before the cat so the new headers could be fitted along with a flex joint for extra piece of mind. The only issue was having 2 resonators quite close made the job a little more difficult but luckily enough, I was still able to retain both of the resonators. 4-1 collector. All finished up and ready to go! Once the install was done, I was very eager to hear the sound change and get driving. Turning it over for the first time, there was no noticeable change in idle note but, once applying some throttle driving you could hear the rushing of air through the headers along with a nice rumble and deeper note down low. Once getting over 4000 RPM you could hear a nice change in exhaust note getting a lot more raspy and than getting to the 5800 RPM crossover where lift screamed. Due the car been tuned for the previous setup without the ported intake manifold and 4-1 headers, a re-tune was definitely necessary. Luckily enough, earlier in the month while ordering the parts, my mate Ed planned to be in Sydney for the weekend which made it easy to pick the header install date. So after the header install, I headed over to visit Ed and we began to work over the tune. After quite a few pulls in the low RPM and high RPM ranges, Ed and I found the 5800 lift to be leaving a noticeable flat spot from 6000-6200 RPM where the power peaked initially before flattening and picking up again. We decided to raise the lift point to 6000 rpm to test and we found this to be a perfect point after some fine tuning was before and after lift to make the power band a lot more linear. Despite having quite a full car with extra parts and other unnecessary things, a 34 degree day with high humidity, the car has improved extremely well all round. Even less throttle input is needed, I can keep the car in a higher gear on hills and inclines with no issues, the power and torque improvements with the 4-1 design and of course the new roar of the beast! The new headers have really brought the 2ZZ to life. I'm really over the moon with the new setup and I'm super keen to get more kilometers down. These new mods wouldn't have happened without the R&D and hard work that Ed has put into both the intake manifold and headers. A massive thank you to Ed for all the hard work getting these parts ready to go in such a short time with no issues what so ever. As we approach the end of the year, I definitely want to keep driving over the Christmas break to enjoy the new setup. I will more than likely do an oil change next weekend before I get too busy along with hopefully giving the car a bath. Stay tuned until next time!
  10. 2 points
    I used the above approach rather than remove the intake and replace gaskets. Started at 4:30pm and paused at 7:30pm after replacing the spark plugs and ignition coils for the rear bank then reassembling. Probably could have saved 30 minutes by being better organized and having to find better quality 6 point socket and breaker bar to undo 2 of the nuts on the passenger side strut mount. Surprisingly, driver's side strut mount nuts came undone quite readily. Only took 20-30 minutes to replace the spark plugs and ignition coils for the front bank.
  11. 2 points
    Basically a couple of muppets felt their switch was a bit sticky so they took it upon themselves to open up the board and lubricate it. Unfortunately what they used was high flammable and caught fire. During the recall the master switch assy is tested, re-greased and anti tamper screws fitted to fend off average joe from taking it upon themselves to attempt to fix things again in the future.
  12. 2 points
    Hi everyone - first time poster here but long time Toyota owner (mostly 4wds though) and some Cressidas a long time ago. Recently bought a pretty cheap ($4k) 06 Presara (200k) that I'm doing up for a family member and as bit of a project for myself. Thought I share my experience as I have a lot of the common issues mentioned in this forum which has helped me greatly thanks. It's been fun working through the issues over the last couple of weeks. I haven't done a car project for years. The door open alarm 'bing bing bing' drives me mad. First job was to remove the cluster and put a self tapping screw into the piezo buzzer. Done this task many a time over the years. Bad Steering wheel shake at highway speeds - didn't drive it fast enough in my test drive to spot this but was an easy fix. The previous owner must have parked in some mud in the past with the front left wheel semi submerged. Mass buildup on the inside of the wheel. A quick wheel removal and a clean solved the issue but I put new (quality) tyres on anyway for safety's sake. Transmission flare on cold starts with gear changes (3-4). Still working on this. I see this is a common issue from way back. ECU change perhaps. Mine is the V2 ECU already though I seen they've updated the ECU again for this model as I've seen a later part number. I'm scratching my head here wondering if I should bother trying to fix it. Transmission in desperate need of a full flush. I've done this many times over the years to many vehicles but this transmissions took 16 Litres of Penrite LV to start clearing up. Other than the 3-4 flare on cold starts - the tranny runs really well. I haven't dropped the pan to change the filter yet. I did the flush via the transmission cooler hoses if anyone was wondering. 2 Litres at a time. Easy peasy. A couple of the buttons didn't work on the steering wheel. Seen this before in my Prado. Ordered a replacement clockspring assembly from ebay for 50 bucks. All working now. Had to swap over the steering angle sensor with the new part. Overall a 30 min job. Engine start rattle on cold starts. VVTi actuator I suspected thanks to this forum. Didn't notice it on my test drive but noticed on the other 3 or 4 Aurions I test drove of similar vintage. A couple of engine oil flushes has solved the issue for now - I was surprised. I think there maybe other servicing issues as this engine maybe 'sludged'. Engine does runs very well though - it goes hard (I'm used to diesel 4WDs). The engine bay and underneath are very tidy so it hasn't been totally neglected. White engine smoke on engine restarts. I first thought this was exhaust system condensation - looks like it but it does it during the middle of the day only after the car had been sitting for time. I'm heading down the replacement PCV valve and front rocker cover sludge clean route. Doesn't look like oil smoke though. More like water vapour but it's not using any water. I haven't spent much time working on the issue yet. Minor clear coat issue on the left side of the roof near the B pillar. A can of DIY 2K clear coat will solve this hopefully. Minor steering 'notch' when moving slowly and turning. Seems to be another common issue. Can barely feel it though. Intermediate shaft perhaps. When the car engine is off and I move the steering from left to right I can also hear a slight knocking sound somewhere underneath. Not sure if this is related to the notch I feel. Bushes or something? More time needed for root cause. Parking sensors constantly beeping when activated. This was related to the bumper scrapes on the vehicle corners - exactly where the sensors sit. Previous owner has knocked 2 of them inside the bumper. I pushed them back out and held them in with a little adhesive. All working now. Sticky dashboard. Dash mat is the solution/mask for the time being. I'll keep a eye out at the wreckers for a replacement for cheap. The ones I've found so far have the same issue. Missing spare smart key. Got a cheap replacement fob off ebay. Programmed with Techstream and hidden key cut locally. All good. Need to check if this engine has the original VVTi oil line rubber hose or steel tube replacement. Park brake doesn't work in reverse. Some tweaking was required to get this working OKish. Still not great. Won't hold well on my quite steep driveway. Not an maintenance issue - but will replace the Factory Headunit (with Sat) with something more modern. Looks like there are at least a few to choose from and are reasonably priced. Water leak, when raining, in the boot space in the spare tyre well. Got a replacement rubber seal from a wreckers for 20 buck. All good now. Knocking sound coming from rear of vehicle when changing direction (forward to reverse). Was the jack hitting the frame ever so slightly. Easy fix - simply remove jack. Or secure it properly :) Update. Add another issue in there - this time the alternator. Looks like low charge especially when idling. I was idling the car for quite some time doing some stuff and the stereo cut out and a few dash lights came on with the engine still running. Shut the engine down and the battery voltage was 11.90V. Not good. Overall the car drives really well now and inside is a nice place to be as long as you know where you're going and don't need to use the archaic and frustrating Nav system.
  13. 2 points
    Short answer is YES, the 70 Series sits on the new TNGA platform (Same as C-HR & new Corolla) the wheelbase is longer, track wider, and weight lower making the balance of the car notably better. The SL has a reasonably soft suspension tune so rides well on 18" wheels but it also turns in and controls the body well. it's defiantly a more engaging and enjoyable car to drive. In the past you wouldn't have bothered trying to drive any Camry or Aurion "Spiritedly" other than the Sportivo/ TRD variants where as with this model you could have fun in any variant.
  14. 2 points
    This is actually my third Toyota. Before I bought a Hyundai I owned 2 Corollas in a row, the first a 1987 hatch back manual and the second a 1998 Corolla Seca csi manual. The Hyundai I bought was a mistake. As I've said elsewhere, I've heard Hyundai cars have improved a great deal in quality but I decided not to buy another one. I'm sure a brand new Hyundai, maybe an Elantra or a Sonata, would've been a big improvement over my old car but I just felt I wanted a Toyota again. I was going to test drive a new Corolla, with CVT, as well but I test drove a Camry first and it just felt right for me. I'm a tall guy and after being stuck with a Hyundai Accent for so long the Camry just felt so comfortable. This Camry is also the first automatic car I've ever owned. Being larger than my previous car, driving the Camry after I bought it at first almost felt like I was "driving a boat". I honestly don't know how I would've coped without the proximity sensors, especially the cross traffic alert as I reverse out of my garage. Also, the inside of the Camry seemed like a spaceship compared to my previous car. But I'm used to it now. I'm 55 and I'm currently working casually, after getting my degree at the age of 50. I needed a car that was much more reliable than my old car as well as being more comfortable to drive and not too expensive to own over the long run. I'm very happy to be the owner of a Toyota again.
  15. 1 point
    chuck it on top of your car and see if it will fit... or whether there are mounting points that are able to go on your car... no stupid questions here, ive heard of silvia s14 spoilers fitting on my model camrys 🙊
  16. 1 point
    Recently, the battery charging warning light came on while driving home Thursday night. Checked the fusible link and it ended up being OK. Starting to look as though the alternator would have to be replaced. As luck would have it, I was going to be taking the girlfriend about 4AM next Monday to the airport. Friday morning, I recharged the battery, refitted it Friday night to drive to girlfriend's house. Car was still drivable but the battery charging warning light was still on. Certainly then appreciated having the larger size and capacily before the battery became fully drained. Fortunately, the warning light went out after I accelerated hard to change lanes. I am guessing that the decoupler pulley on the alternator is now functioning correctly rather than the alternator. Will further check the alternator.
  17. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum..one question why here!... When you say you own a BMW KAA
  18. 1 point
    Acquired in 1976 from Toyota Developments by way of Nalders Toyota Service Division Stawell. JRD import Twin Cam five speed F series LSD four wheel discs. Featured in Modern Motor review owned for 40+ years.
  19. 1 point
    id go 2.5" with no cat, and for your muffler - to reduce rasp, make sure your muffler has bends inside rather than a straight through muffler, maybe even get a bee-r revlimiter ? haha setup i have atm is 2.5" stainless steel with mandrel bends, 100cel cat and a (sized as close to oem) straight through muffler (also have intake and headers) i get some crackles if i let off around 3000rpm and some pops sometimes when i shift 😛 - its droney sitting on 2900 on the fwy, i guess a resonator would fix it -its raspy because of the straight through muffler choice
  20. 1 point
    Depending how many mods you plan on doing, you have to decide what size piping and what material to use. Most go for 2.5" piping with mild steel, which does reduce rasp somewhat compared to stainless but will have a shorter life span compared to stainless. There are gains to be had with 2.25" exhausts but it's not too much bigger than stock, the main advantage would be the additional flow without restrictions added. I run 2.5" mild press bent, which does cause some restriction but I haven't reached the limits of needing mandrel bent as of yet. Generally moving to high flow cat can get some occasional pops, I have previously ran stock ported headers now on custom 4-1s headers and they still pop every no and than. So look into getting a high flow cat if you have the funds. I have seen some with stock cats also pop occasionally as they do flow reasonably well for a standard item. You will also need to consider the muffler as this completes the sound and will help greatly with flow. Generally the pops are just un-burnt fuel that gets ignited in the exhaust system. I recall even my completely stock exhaust system did it from time to time. EDIT: I completely forgot to mention resonators/hot dog mufflers. I run 2 and this reduces the rasp a fair bit. A budget method many user with 2.5" piping is the VE commodore V6 resonator, as it's 2.5" inside I believe, is cheap and is quite long too. Resonators can reduce the rasp greatly depending on how big, the type and how many you use.
  21. 1 point
    I've had this particular style of LED rear bumper lamps installed for the last 3-years, but after noticing that one of them had moisture inside the lens I decided to swap them out for new ones - And to my surprise, they now do one with a sequential indicator instead of a normal flashing one, so they're even better than before! :) Here's the video I uploaded to YouTube earlier: https://youtu.be/ty8JQPmolFA
  22. 1 point
    Ok guys, so I’ve chosen to go with the 2017 Aurion Sportivo 😁 i had to test both cars extensively. I kinda did fall in love with the Aurion. It’s pretty versatile as a city and a hwy car, which is exactly what I needed. Also more pick up of the line than the Falcon, which felt a bit sluggish at times. Comes with 18 months of factory warranty left, less niggles and better reliability. So I guess my choice is made haha. Cheers guys
  23. 1 point
    On the left hand side of the center console, there is a small circle behind the hinge where the spring mounts onto. The spring can than be placed on the flap like the picture attached, you can see how it mounts roughly.
  24. 1 point
    Do you have the small metal spring still that hooks in at all? You have to make sure that is hooked on the flap and onto the side of the center console unit while it sits on both of the plastic hinges at the bottom. If one hinge is broken (generally the left side breaks quite easily) than the spring will make it sit incorrectly and make the flap pop out from its place. You can get a new spring from Toyota, I have the part number 5544512110 which usually goes for around $2.50.
  25. 1 point
    Oh, and I'm now rolling on 15" TOM's AE111 wheels, came up at a bargain price and I couldn't resist a piece of JDM dealer-option gold.
  26. 1 point
    And making sure it isn't too close to a bend. Basically Toyota MAFs work best in straight smooth flow of the same diameter as the stock piping.
  27. 1 point
    Essentially, I ignore them. I do take a deep breath and stay cool, calm and collected. I drive safe and smart i.e. defensively with about twice the braking distance so it is a relaxing non.stressful drive. Most definitely, I am NOT going to brake-check them. Eventually, the tailgater is going to overtake you and more than likely in less than desirable circumstances. Before my time, the girlfriend was driving and being tailgated. I understand that the roads were wet and she was driving below the speed limit for the conditions. The tailgater overtook her vehicle in a blaze of speed and disappeared into the curves ahead. Probably 5-10 minutes later, she came across their vehicle off the road and in a ditch with the occupants standing beside it . As she went passed them, she would the window down and said to them "Happy Motoring".
  28. 1 point
    I thought that I would share the following YouTube video because I agree with his practice of changing the oil filter mid-way through an extended service interval. I particularly noted his recommendation of reducing the service interval and a higher oil viscosity with the increased mileage. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lUA1YgoF1U
  29. 1 point
    Oooooooooft this is some joocy content, love reading!
  30. 1 point
    Suggest you wait for your regular mechanic or go to an automatic transmission shop.
  31. 1 point
    Its going to cast around 6k alll up then still needs tuning.
  32. 1 point
    Just wanted to follow up on this post by saying Toyota has graciously agreed to replace all the fuel injectors. So impressed with the support they have extended to me. Thankyou Toyota!
  33. 1 point
    loose engine mount? No need to go to specialist, should be easy to find out on the dyno, with one person looking at the engine
  34. 1 point
    Sorry to tell you but Toyota releases new map updates about every two years, & the dates for the map on those updates are usually almost a year old then! Or at least this has been the case for SD Card based units. I have had Toyota sat/navs since 2012 & this has been my experience since then. I currently have a 2016 Corolla Hybrid with a unit with microSD card & the maps were 2014 (the latest at the time) when I got it. I'm hoping there will be a new release next month (Dec 2018) & will update then, hopefully via a friend who works for a Toyota dealer as the SD cards are $250-$300 each retail. Don't be tempted to buy a non-Toyota card as the units are encoded & only genuine cards will work, regardless of what a third party supplier will tell you. I tried the cheap option online & got dudded & couldn't get my money back even though I pursued the supplier who turned out to be overseas based. You'll have to live with this knowledge or swap your unit for a more customer focused brand. This issue is about the only complaint I have with my car after 2+ years of ownership.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Keep an eye out for ZRE152 coilovers, I believe they will work fine too - the main thing to be aware is that the rear suspension design of these cars has the springs separate from the shocks, whereas a lot of aftermarket stuff online is either for the IRS Auris, or for the US-spec sedan which has the springs over the shocks (I think Aus sedans are the same too, since they're both technically ZRE172s not 182s).
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Selling my trd calipers and dics complete brake set up Location: Sydney will sell the lots for $600 front and rear with discs, will fit onto any aurion model 06- 11.
  41. 1 point
    Hey Guys, Though Id introduce to my new Ride "Lucy" a sexy Aurora Gold 07 ZR6 have had her 8 weeks and all I can say is wow :) I should have bought one of these a long time ago :)
  42. 1 point
    Ask them why would they have to change the springs. I'll be changing my rear struts hopefully this weekend, bought the pair of KYB 339112 and 339113 for 224aud few months ago off eBay, plus 240 labour at UltraTune. Ask around for other quotes, you don't really need to go to a suspension specialist for struts replacement.
  43. 1 point
    Its obviously not running the way it should, How in gods name is revving the sh*t out of it gunna make it run right. It sounds like the timing is way out,
  44. 1 point
    I have the regular SL with 4 cylinders. At one stage I was considering a hybrid but I only average 16,000 kilometers per year. Admittedly that will likely go up slightly, now that I have a much nicer car, but I still couldn’t justify buying a hybrid with the low kilometers I do per year.
  45. 1 point
    I can foresee the possibility when only self-drive autonomous vehicles will be able to travel on certain prescribed roads or highways. Remaining drivers/chauffeurs will then be highly skilled or professionally qualified similar to aircraft pilots subject to regular health checks etc. Then, when we are in our rocking chairs waiting for the grim reaper [or angels] we will be moaning into our herbal teas about the good old days of when cars had steering wheels.
  46. 1 point
    ^^ that looks sensational provided it's reliable. I'm all for any tech that increases driver enjoyment & safety, not ruin it.
  47. 1 point
    Just got email from SuperCheap Auto for Club Members 35% discount off Penrite Oils 18-20 May. Penrite LV ATF 4 litre $29.24 discount price too attractive to let go. If you are not a member, you can join in store and get the discount prices applied immediately. I did another online order for 4 with local store pick-up to ensure I did not miss out. Also applied a $9 credit from my previous purchase.
  48. 1 point
    I have previously read this article about Australian fuel quality. My thought at the time was that this could explain why latest engines are not being made available by manufactures i.e. Toyota for the Australian market. https://www.drive.com.au/motor-news/the-breakdown-australian-fuel-quality-and-emissions-20170519-gw98gf These engines have been under development for quite some years. Now becoming a reality before 2020 but not expecting Toyota to be adopting this technology until it is proven in production http://www.motortrend.com/news/variable-compression-rest-story/ https://www.autoblog.com/2017/11/28/2019-infiniti-qx50-variable-compression-ratio-engine/
  49. 1 point
    G'day I just picked up a one owner 1977 Stout that is still registered and garaged all its life and is in immaculate condition. The missus and kids are in luv with it too so its a win. I even have the original Rego & Insurance papers and check out the tool kit never been out of its bag along with the condition of the floor pans. Cheers Noz
  50. 1 point
    Well here they are. DIY printed and etched. Still gotta grab a small bit and drill them. Not the best ive seen but good enough to populate :D

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