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  1. 2 points
    The good news is that the engine is not blowing smoke. The bad news is that2GR-FE engine is more prone to oil sludge build up compared to other modern engines. Regular oil and filter cartridge changes using quality brand oils are absolutely essential. If you want a longer oil change interval [7-10K kms] then definitely use a full synthetic oil. Your choice whether you use 5W-30 or 5W-40. In your case, I would be assuming the oil sludge is happening/has happened but not yet serious. 1. If the engine was blowing smoke, then definitely remove the valve cover and clean the baffles in the cover leading to the PCV. Otherwise, I would be inclined to leave it alone. 2. Definitely clean the PCV valve. Every time that I do an oil change, I do an engine flush using diesel. Essentially, drop the engine, replace with about 5 litres of diesel then idle engine for 5-10minutes. 3. No bad experiences with oil flushes using the diesel or commercial products [a few times]. Been doing this on my Aurion for the past 5 years. Been doing the diesel as an engine flush for 40+years on my various vehicles. In recent years, I have also added to the engine oil 500ml of diesel and later changed to adding 500ml of ATF to help desludge my engine. 4. Definitely clean the PCV valve. I recently did an engine oil change using 5W-40 full synthetic oil. After about 700 kms, it has already changed to light golden colour;.so not exactly happy. Added some ATF to the oil, cleaned the PCV valve and also installed an oil catch can together with the existing inline filter and oil separator. If you search, you will find the recent post with photos of this installation. Highly recommend adding either an oil catch can and/or an oil separator for your consideration.
  2. 2 points
    just a small update on some cosmetic changes 😁
  3. 1 point
    I had a very similar experience of that sequence of events in that the battery was going flat because the alternator was not charging. I previously had the battery charging warning light come on for a few days then it went out Saturday morning. This lulled me into a false sense of security thinking that the alternator was working again and that maybe the clutch pulley may have magically fixed itself. A change of alternator certainly fixed my issue. At the time I did not have a multimeter but since then the alternator charges at 13.7V or higher when starting. Good point has been made about checking the grounding wires. In particular check for corrosion on the grounding cables where they connect to the vehicle body and even look for loose connections. Certainly check the wiring connections on the alternator. As a recent example, I had a loose connection on a set of jumper cables and did not realise until one connector clip came away from the cable. Another relearning to check everything and not make assumptions.
  4. 1 point
    As of today, my beloved 2005 Corolla Sportivo has been sold. Hopefully, it is going to a good home, and will be treated well and serve well. With that, I no longer own a Toyota. Life has changed, and so have my automotive needs. I'll miss ya, but will move on to the Skoda Octavia RS230 Wagon forum, and the Subaru Levorg GTS forum. (I was indecisive, so bought one of each). I needed to do this for closure. I miss it already....
  5. 1 point
    Hi. My name is Melanie. I am currently driving a 2017 Kluger GX that I purchased a week ago. I think I paid a good price compared to the current market. So am happy about that. And I am enjoying driving it around too - the kids are enjoying the novelty of the third row of seats. I was previously driving a 2014 Aurion AT-X (which is currently for sale). But swapped over to the kluger to gain the extra seats. I really enjoyed the ride of the Aurion and will be sad when it sells. My first car (in 2000) was a 1986 Corolla LX series 2. It was a 5 speed manual in canary yellow. It had after market air conditioning (that you had to switch off going up a big hill! 😂). I loved the freedom it gave me - but also the car. I kept it for about 7 years before selling it as I had a baby and the anchor points were very dubious! I purchased a 2006 Holden Commodore wagon. It served its purpose in giving us a large boot space for prams, port-a-cots and the likes. But was never amazing to drive. It became unreliable, which was why I purchased the Aurion. My husband drives a 2008 Prado KDJ120R (manual). We enjoy the option of off-roading, and have created fond memories for the kids and us getting places we wouldn’t have otherwise been able to go. Looking forward to general chit chat and learning a thing or two along the way.
  6. 1 point
    The pickup screen inside the oil sump needs checking for carbon residue. Often blow by gases leak out of the injectors, which eventually clog up the pickup screen. If you drain the oil from the sump, you can shine a torch through the drain hole, spray a little degreaser onto the mesh. Some meshes have complete carbon buildup and oil is being sucked through a hole the size of a pea.
  7. 1 point
    I ignore them too. Don't want to waste my time getting angry at ill-mannered drivers.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    I stay in the left lanes to try avoid this but if it happens cos someone is so impatient & desperate to pass I just take my foot off the accelerator & let the car slow down on it's own, they soon get the message & overtake. Stress disappears.
  10. 1 point
    You will never know if you don't go. Put it to the dealership and see what you get ! Never be embarrassed to ask for what you believe is the right thing.
  11. 1 point
    Essentially, I ignore them. I do take a deep breath and stay cool, calm and collected. I drive safe and smart i.e. defensively with about twice the braking distance so it is a relaxing non.stressful drive. Most definitely, I am NOT going to brake-check them. Eventually, the tailgater is going to overtake you and more than likely in less than desirable circumstances. Before my time, the girlfriend was driving and being tailgated. I understand that the roads were wet and she was driving below the speed limit for the conditions. The tailgater overtook her vehicle in a blaze of speed and disappeared into the curves ahead. Probably 5-10 minutes later, she came across their vehicle off the road and in a ditch with the occupants standing beside it . As she went passed them, she would the window down and said to them "Happy Motoring".
  12. 1 point
    Item: ZRE152 Facelift C-One Wingtips Location: Melbourne, Victoria Item Condition: Used, may need to be polished if keeping the colour, but will need to be resprayed to your required paint colour accordingly if your car is a different colour Reason for Selling: Sold my car, no longer need them Price and Payment conditions: $100 (negotiable) Additional information: Was purchased from Jay (JSKILLS) when he wrote off his Corolla -he parted them out and I bought them originally for $200 but never installed them. Letting them go as I do not need them as I sold my car last year. Also, screws are included but it is highly recommended to either install them with screws AND double sided automotive 3M tape OR have them moulded by a professional panel beater into your existing rear spoiler. Shipping: Willing to ship at buyers expense Pictures: This is how they looked installed on Jay's car when he had them. Contact Details: 0450654345
  13. 1 point
    Another good video on changing ATF https://www.project200.com.au/atf-flush/ I also got to know that Toyota ATF is made by Idemitsu, Japan. The only thing which I'm not very clear, is that if it is synthetic or mineral ATF.
  14. 1 point
    Changing the battery to a new one didnt really help in my case. I have also noticed if i keep the start switch at ON position for about 8 seconds before starting the noise does not come but that is just coincidence. Now i did find this article online that actually mentions our problem and this guy recommends using thinner oil so the oil gets to cam gears through the 'vanes' sooner and doesn't cause the 1-2 second rattle. I currently use Penrite 5w40 and I am now thinking of using a thinner oil. But how thin can i go for this sort of engine? What do you guys recommend I try? You DIY Auto Thick oil and the VVT-i startup tick If you own a late model Toyota you may have noticed a 1-2 second ticking noise at startup. While there could be other mechanical problems, most of the time the culprit is a stuck/locked VVT-i controller. What can I do to resolve this? In some cases its an actual controller failure. But for most its oil selection. Its called Variable Valve Timing because its always running. From the second the engine starts, VVT is attempting to adjust to conditions. When it can't, gets stuck, it will tick for 1-2 seconds. Unlike Honda's VTEC that uses two sets of cam shaft profiles – one for low and mid range rpm and another for high rpm operation, VVT camshaft timing is varied using oil pressure according to engine revolutions, throttle position, engine coolant temperature and intake air volume. VVT operation depends on hydraulic oil pressure that arrives through a long winding path of tiny oil passages. So tiny they are known as "vanes". Its critical the system stays clean. Its critical the system maintains proper oil flow and pressure as fast as possible to prevent that annoying startup tick. Proper lubrication comes from a combination of oil pressure, flow, and film strength between moving parts. Oil pressure by itself is no indication of proper engine lubrication. Oil pressure is managed by the oil pump and relief valve. Thick oil will have higher pressure because there is more resistance to flow. Too high and it will flow out the oil pump relief valve back to the sump, lubricating nothing including the VVT system. As stated above, thick oil will have higher pressure because there is more resistance to flow. Add that to the tiny "vanes" of the VVT system and you have a oil flow lag as compared to the rest of the engine. By as much as 1-2 seconds. No coincidence that's the duration of the noise. Modern thin oils have better flow, better viscosity modifiers to manage film strength. That means better lubrication and cooling, keeping pressure within spec. Tthin as possible is a good thing, especially for the VVT-i system.. "Thin as possible" meaning some older engines have mechanical issues like wear/higher tolerances, valve seals, rings, etc. causing oil consumption that may prevent its use.
  15. 1 point
    Good indication that the battery may not last much longer although I have read some internet posts of car batteries lasting up to 10 years. I have bought a multi-stage battery charger to help rejuvenate batteries. I also have bought the larger size Century Battery 75D23L MF instead of the 55D23L MF for my Aurion but have not noticed any difference for engine starting between 620 CCA and 540 CCA.
  16. 1 point
    "It ticks for about 1-2mins might be a lil more then goes normal for the rest of the day. " this suggests the lubrication is not up to the top of the engine yet. Your location says "Non Aust" - is it possible the oil you have is too thick on cold start up? - IE: if you are in EU then winter so you might need to go to a slightly lighter oil for this engine - recommended by mr Toyota is in the image attached below for you. A lot of workshops will just put in what oil they have so come back to what you know - does the engine definitely have the correct grade of oil etc. FWIW - i use the genuine Toyota injector cleaner in my V8 cruiser & swear by it. The one in the Aluminium bottle - must be good......Makes the engine quieter & helps with economy - it does have a lubrication additive in it so also helps with longevity of the injectors etc. I have a 1KZTE which also will give slight valve noise in winter on cold start - goes away as soon as revs are off idle or within about 10-15 secs. This is normal as the engine needs to pump the oil up to the valves. Injectors should be around $100AUD each roughly but before you go that path might be worth your time to put an oil system flush through & fresh oil as per the recommended grade for you weather conditions & see if it goes away. For ref i use a 5w-40 oil in my engine & it is definitely easier on cold start & more economical on fuel - not a lot but noticeable over time. Also - dont panic about this - its pretty normal for most cold engines to take a moment for the oil to get up to the top of the head. Could be injectors but if there is no telltale smoke or other symptoms then start simple & cross off all the things you can do yourself like oil, clean fuel, clean air filter etc.
  17. 1 point
    I thought you all might like to know the final conclusion of my saga. It was in fact the immobilizer unit. It cost me a pretty penny to get a replacement but the RAV4 starts and runs fine now. The engine noise was just that all the stop/stalls had drained the oil out of the top end of the engine. Once it ran for a bit, warmed up, and got the oil circulating again, the noise completely went away. Thanks again for all the advice.
  18. 1 point
    There is nothing wrong with machining rotors. They have a minimum thickness for a reason. Genuine rotors are generally quite expensive. RDA, DBA and Protex are all industry standard rotors. DBA is usually my pick. Bendix, Ferodo, etc. for pads. Unless you like throwing money into a fire, there is no reason to stick with genuine brake parts.
  19. 1 point
    The following rules apply to the Buy and Sell section: All private vehicle sales must be made in the Toyota's For Sale section. No commercial selling is allowed. Traders must read the terms and conditions located here: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/terms-conditions/ or alternatively contact management who will point you in the right direction. Sale posts may only be made in the Buy and Sell forums. The Sale Template below must be used for all sale threads including vehicles. You may only 'bump up' your item once every 48 hours. Bumping includes any posts made in your for sale thread that are not adding additional information related to the item, or answering questions from other users. At the discretion of the management, posts may be removed at any time without notice; and if deemed necessary the member may have their access restricted. The eBay section is not to be used for private or trader sales, it is for eBay finds only. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate in contacting a member of the management team. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Sale Template Please remove the italicised portions and input the relevant information. * In the title of the thread you MUST include the state the item is located, for example: [NSW] 1990 Toyota Corolla SX Hatch Item: Location: Website: <If selling on eBay / Carsales> Item Condition: <New/Used/Refurbished> Reason for Selling: Price and Payment conditions: Any additional information: Shipping: <Willing/Not willing to ship or Postage at buyers expense> Pictures: Contact Details: -------------------------------------------------------------------------
  20. 1 point
    The Dot 3 is what the Factory spec calls for anyway. I'm no engineer, but I will always try to follow the manufacturer spec within reason. ***Update*** I have since gone to DOT 4. DOT 3 and 4 are virtually the same except DOT 4 has a higher boiling point. Toyota have just been lazy in only staying with DOT3 to alleviate any confusion from past to future models. http://www.nbsbrakesupplies.com.au/technical-information/dot-3-and-dot-4-brake-fluids.html
  21. 1 point
    Have you had a look under the dash at all? I would be highly surprised if that had anything to do with the service, I think it is purely coincidental that it occurred at the same time. Check to see if it is coming from the switch, spring or pedal pivots. Also pay attention to the rod that comes through from the booster, the jam nut may have come undone.
  22. 1 point
    Here's an update to hopefully revive the thread
  23. 1 point
    Thanks Guys, Indeed, the clutch fluid was low. Topped it up & no more warning light. Cheers,
  24. 1 point
    Pretty good chance your brake fluid is low and on gear changes it is sloshing around an going below the low level
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    nice video ... sad but happy .
  27. 1 point
    Currently in progress... Still far and away from where I wanna be.. (Ive done a lot since this pic but still far from finishing) JEEPNEY CUBE!
  28. 1 point
    ah man .... been ages since i've been on the forums. Well the car has been off the road for a year now ...... and as it goes with project cars ..... are they ever truely finished. Anyway there has finally been some movement on the car front and have some pics to share.
  29. 1 point
    MissFudgie, I might be cheaper to get a different pram, we have 4 children as well and our twin pram fits in the back with the 3rd row seat up.
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Hi Krystal, the model upgrade (MY2011 to 2013) has split seats in the third row. I assume it would be a straight replacement of the third road seat, and would be a genuine Toyota seat. It is the same body (being that series 2 klugers ran from 2007 to 2013), the obvious change is the different grill and front lights, and of course the split seat configuration in the third road. A wrecker may be able to source and swap the seat for you, as maybe a Toyota dealer. Not sure if there are any compliance or insurance issues in doing this, but I assume it would be a perfect fit, rather than messing around with an aftermarket conversion. Ian
  36. 1 point
    Sorry for digging up an old thread but I've been testing out different fuels as I do a lot of driving to work and back (218km round trip each day). I've found the E10 fuel (95 RON where I get it) to be the most economical in terms of fuel used, and also the cheapest in terms of $/L. Second to that would be 91 RON. I've had the E10 (95 RON) down to 7.9L/100km (actual figures, car said 7.5 but it was lying) while the best I could get any other fuel was 8.3l/100km which was with a tank of 91 RON. I find the E10 also feels like it has more power and it tends to get highway speed overtaking maneuvers done much quicker. This is all done in me Aurion though, so a little off topic to the hybrids
  37. 1 point
    I have had my GT86 since last September and so far it is fault free. I am 183cm and about 110 kg. The seats are comfortable and plenty of head room. (mind you, the seats are down to their lowest adjustable level). I love the GT86 and would recommend it to anyone wanting a sporty drive.
  38. 1 point
    Hi Bill, E10 in Tassie is mainly offered by Liberty and united Garages and last time I checked a few weeks ago it was 95 octane. Not sure if either of these brands are offered in Qld. The Hybrid Camry has a completely different (larger capacity) motor than the Prius and as far as I know there is no need to use anything other than 91 Octane.
  39. 1 point
    I have a 2012 Prius Hybrid, and in the manual it recommends 95 octane, however it can take e10. As Premium 95 octane is about 10c/l more expensive than 91 regular unleaded, I would ideally like to find an e10 that's 95 octane, but can't (I'm in Qld). Woollies E10 is 91, and Coles e10 might be 93 but can't confirm this. Anyone help with this? I read that when you add ethanol to petrl it raises the octane level, so that means Woolies must have been below 91 octane before they added the ethanol. PS. What is the recommended fuel for the Camry hybrid, and if it's different, why?
  40. 1 point
    Yeah, I've gone to premium 95 RON now, considering the cost per km difference with E10 is minimal. Also, if you believe the marketing, it has "special sauce" that make your car run better. So why not! ;-)
  41. 1 point
    That surprises me, although you obviously were a lot more scientific than me. Most of my tanks would have had a bit of a mixture of fuels, which would have skewed the results.
  42. 1 point
    I did a test of E10, 91 and 95 using Caltex stations on my 2010 Camry Hybrid Luxury over 6 months. The consumption is measured using full fills rather than the car computer. This was recorded over 2 months period for each type of fuel, I fill on average every fortnight and driving about 1000 km during that time. I've found that in $ per km terms at 2011 prices, 91 was the clear winner, followed by E10 and then 95. Difference between E10 and 95 was only a few cents, with E10 being cheaper to run. I've since lost the data logged in the app so I can't give you exact numbers. But 91 was by far the better fuel to get, back in the day 91 was 3 cents per litre more expensive than E10, and 95 was around 10-15 cents more expensive than 91. There's a clear economy difference between E10 and regular fuels in my experience. However, since that time, my local Woolies Caltex have phased out 91 and gone to E10 only...91 RON is really hard to find at a decent price in my area now.
  43. 1 point
    10% :p Also, since the OP is in Victoria it is a slightly different matter - NSW E10 is usually 91 RON (even with the ethanol added, due to a government mandate), in other states I don't believe there is the same restriction and you'll often get 94/95RON E10 (which is closer to Premium)
  44. 1 point
    I sent my car in to the Toyota dealer this morning to ask them to reset the security code for my Presara. Here's what they told me - the security code is normally the last 3 digit of your VIN no. If that doesn't work , then try "320" . That is the Toyota generic code from the factory. Try these 2 pin before you attempt anything else. If not once you exhausted all 9 tries, you will have to get them to reset the whole thing. Thanks bros for your help. Cheers!
  45. 1 point
    You cant be serious right?? The OEM Brakes are absolute crap!! The OEM Brakes are Dusty, shutter when hard braking, and makes it twice as hard when your kissing sharp corners. Bendix Heavy Duty resolved all the above for me.
  46. 1 point
    To be honest, if you really think those pads will fit on your Aurion, they you really should research your car of choice better considering what you would have done to get it in the first place. Mate.... you are asking a USA specific question on an Australian forum. You need to look at the details of the Bendix pad I have supplied (because they show the pad design in the PDF) and look for a suitable pad in the USA. The American Camry pads will not fit. Plain and simple. You import a car from another country.... you go to the effort to get parts for it. What did you expect in the first place. I don't go over to the States and expect supermarkets to stock Vegemite simply because Kraft is an American company.
  47. 1 point
    Also in the West.... DO NOT USE GRAND TOYOTA IN WANGARA. Either when purchasing a new car or for servicng. I had three new cars through them and the sales team were great....except the after sales care is appalling....you are just a number and the place is always so busy, that your car is rushed through. I have had so many bad experiences with them that i will never ever use them again, even if they offered me half price servicing. One example......mechanics doing burnouts in the cars when taking them into the service area.....i caught them out twice and management stood up for the mechanic saying the roads are wet....well my wifes auto yaris needs full throttle to do so....:) I now use Big Rock Toyota in Balcatta.......I bought the supposed last new TRD Aurion off the showroom floor.... I have had nothing but great results from these guys and for some reason, i am treated like a god.....i am not complaining. Maybe news got through from Toyota about my problems with Grand in Wangara. They make me a coffee and when my wife is there also and my baby needs a nappy change, they actually come accross and take the dirty nappy of our hands and take it to the bin outside....now that is service......
  48. 1 point
    To save on the hassle, you can just choose to stick with what Toyota uses when you get your car serviced. If you are picky (like me), you can bring your own oil in. My reply in the thread 'New member here ~~question for Aurion service' In my opinion, the Australian winter is just not cold enough to justify using an oil grade lower than 10W30. If you really wanted extra assurance in winter, you could go for 5W30, but there really isn't a need. 10W30 is good all the way down to a temperature of -20 degrees Celsius, and the 5W30 is good al the way down to -30 degrees. To be on the safe side, you take (add) 10 degrees to this. So if you think your car will experience temperatures lower than -10 degrees Celsius, then go for 5W30, otherwise you will be fine with the first. As for the oil I use, it all comes down to personal preference; everyone has different opinions. I use Fuchs Titan Super GTO 10W30. It is a fully synthetic oil and it only costs $39.99 for a 5L bottle. I change my oil at 7,500km intervals, so the price point is a good one. Have not had any issues with the oil at all. Another thread of interest: Best engine oil?
  49. 1 point
    Isn't that to attract the flight attendant?
  50. 1 point




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