GUZZLA

Thats a good detailed answer above. From my experience too, Maguires have always made good products. I was returning a press vehicle the other day and got chatting to the detailer there. He was showing me all the gear he uses and what it's used for, including buff pads, different types of cutting compounds and polishes. I've has a noticable scrath in the clear coat at the top of the door for some time and have been unable to remove it. I showed him and within 5min the scratch was gone. Dam I was impressed. One thing I did notice was that not one of his products was a big 'brand name'. All his gear was sourced from panel and paint shops. Like he said to me, "Those guys sell paint products for a living. Of course they know how to keep the paint in top condition". I got the feeling he knew what he was talking about as he was detailing an black Merc AMG SL 500 and the warehouse was full of cars like it. I hadn't really given it much thought, but most auto shops charge an arm and a leg for car care products. I recon if you can find a local panel beater supplier, you'd get some top advice along with reasonably cheap products. Be careful though, some cutting compounds will strip the clear coat within half a dozen rubs, so ask before you buy. By the way... looks like my Corolla just scored a free full detail FTW Nath

Hi Brad, Like I said before I dont claim to be an expert and thanks for listing your cleaning detail. Your program looks pretty straight forward until you look closely. It appears you spend 25minutes washing the panels with a wool mit. 25min seems like eccess for such a small car. Correct me if I'm wrong but I can only imagine you rubbing circle after circle across all the panels scrubbing it back and forth. The clay bar should only be used on heavily contaminated surfaces. Once it has been used, normal washing is all thats needed to keep the paint work clean. The clay bar is an abrasive after all and is the No1 enemy of black paint. While polish definately has its merits, I would only be applying it every couple of months just as a protective layer to dirt and grime. Constant use means excessive contact and rubbing of the paint surface - not something black paint likes. On my metallic black Corolla I rinse the car with a high pressure hose (not a gernie) then with a fully soaked microfibre mit squeeze the warm soapy water over the panel before soaking it again and making one pass over each area. I do one panel at a time and rince it of with smooth running water straight away. This causes the water to bead, creating capillary action that makes the water run off the panel leaving bugger all to chamios and leaving no streakingor water marks . I do this with each panel and go no lower than the bottoms of the doors with my good mit. The older mit does the sill sections and wheel arches while the the wheels get done with degreaser and paint brush followed by a quick rinse. This is all done within 15min and I havent broken a sweat. I do take about the same time as you drying it but leave it at that. I think the dust is always there, its just more obvious on a shiney panel. I can see the dust settle on mine whith in an hour of drying it and it ****s me to no end too. Not as obvoius with wihte paint but we both know black cars are FTW. Being prepared to spend that kind of money means your serious about getting it fixed and I stronly recomend speaking to a few panel beaters and asking if they're interested in doing it. Just make sure you both agree on what the finished product will look like. These guys spend there life making paint look good and they know how to use a buffer properly. If you can find a panel shop with some smick modified cars there, there's a good chance they will know why your so ******. What you're asking for is not unreasonable at all and I hope I have been of some help. Keep us posted. Nath

I can't recomend who but can recomend not to use.. I had a bloke from Car Care polish my SS ute while I was away a few years ago. When I came home it was super clean until I moved it into the sun at which point every panel was covered in swirl marks. They had three goes at fixing it before I told them to get nicked and my panel beater advised me to sue them through their insurance as he believed it was bad enough to warrant a respray. I spent another 2 weekends on it myself but it never looked the same. It gave me the irits so much I traded it in as I wasn't interested in all the legal hassles. Apparently the number one rule with polishing black paint is you use a compleytely different buffer and buffing compound to any other colour. The technique is also different. My tip to you is if you take that much care of your vehicle, take your time and find the right company to do it and even look at the vehicles they've done. Most of all dont base your decision on cost - you dont want a quick polish, you want a quality one (on the paint that is) The paint should only need a polish every 3-6 months and you should be using 100% soft weave cotton towel. If they touch the ground, bin it and get a new one. Same when you wash the car, a deep bucket of water keeps all the dirt at the bottom. Using hot soapy water to flood the panel as you wash it ,stops the dirt being rubbed into the paint. Basicaly the less you touch the paint with anything the greater your chances of not damaging the paint. Washing the lower part of your ride, including the wheels should always be done with a seperate sponge as this is where large chunks of road grime and dirt build up - you don't need that stuff rubbed into the roof. Fiunger nails, rings, belt buckles and jeans studs etc can cuse scratches too. Keep us posted and maybe tell us the exact process you use to wash and polish your vehicle in an effort to reduce swirl marks you may be inflicting yourself. If there are any professional detailers on here, it would be good to read your comments too. Maybe even restore my faith. Cheers, Nath

IIRC you said that was your fist service since new? When I bought mine the dealer said "see you in 10,000km for your fist oil change". I asked about the 1500km service and was told I could bring it back for a quick check over but that was all it needed. I dropped the oil and filter at 1500km and it was nothing more than black water - be buggered if I wanted that crap in my engine for another 8500km doing almost nothing. I changed the oil and filter again at 5000km and it was more acceptable and I will continue to do so for the life of the car as I have done with previous vehicles. There is no way a brand new engine isn't going to have a heap of crud work lose during the run in period, mix with the oil and reduce its effecientcy. I fully appreciate the major effeciency improvements engines are making these days but the oil technology ins't keeping up. Sure you can run a big dollar full synthetic oil but it's still only good for 7500km max. Personally I believe using a cheaper semi synthetic oil with new filter more often has better long term results. What I'm getting at is the damage could already be done and I'd bet all three testicals that they never even took the cover off to check them. As mentioned earlier, running the maximum recommended viscocity oil may shut them up but or you could go the opposite direction and use a thinner oil as this will flow more effeciently. I fully understand, being a new car it shouldn't have this problem and it may pay to take it somewhere else for a second opinion. Also driving for short periods of time consistently wont do the engine any favors either. The reason taxis, courier and transport vehicles get mega mileage out of the engines is because they never get turned off. Cheers, Nath

I will be having my new rims engineered and will cost about $250. It may be more for you initially as I already have another vehicle engineered by him. As mentioned above, check with an engineer first as they wont approve everything - especially if your wheels are over track as that's a big no no due to excessive bearing off set load. Also if the tyre diameter is more than 15% over standard you will need to get your speedo recalibrated. Thats just a few of the guidelines and is why you should ask first and mod later. Check out the RTA web site to find one near you and have a chat. Make sure you know exactly what you have/want as they get heaps of tyre kickers ringing up all day. It's worth the effort though to get it all approved so there is no issues with your insurnce company when it's time to make that call. Cheers, Nath

I know this thread is useless without pics but they'll be up shortly. Dropped the Corolla off for the exhaust system today. Custom extractors with a high flow cat and muffler, 2.25in straight through. I wanted to get it dyno'd before fitting but ran out of time so I'll get it done after. Hopefully someone else has dyno'd a stocker for comparison. Regardless of what the dyno says, the real test will be how it is to drive and I've been promisied good results. Toyota have changed the AFM making a CAI difficult but it looks like the factory induction system is much improved. I may just run a KnN without oil (or a very light coating) and leave it at that... Ive also done the fibreglass mould for the custom sub box in the rear quater of the boot. Should be good for about 35L so I can run a decent size sub without having it take up any room. I will post pics of the original and new exhaust system and sub box shortly. Cheers, Nath

Use Castrol VMX-M oil in your gearbox along with 250ml of Nulon 70. Should make it much easier, all gear changes for that matter. Works in mine.

Howdy fellas (and gals), I scored a super deal on a metallic black, 2008, 6 speed, Corolla Ascent to use as a daily driver, instead of my petrol 80s Landcruiser since a career change. In typical toyota style, they've made a good looking and well styled car for the price, not to mention it goes pretty hard - 7000RPM+ and gives excellent economy (600+ km per tank). It's still a stocker at the moment but I came to the realisation a few days ago that's not going to be the case for long - especially since I found this site! It will never be an extreme make over, just the usual like exhaust, tint, wheels and unichip to give it a bit of individualism and more go. While my Landcruiser will still suck most of my funds (currently fitting a 3540 GT and W/A IC), you guys have definately shown me the Corolla has some good potential. There doesn't seem to be much info on the 2ZR-FE here (excuse my ignorance) but I will add my own and post pics shortly. It's also great to see so many Corolla fans on the Northern Beaches Sydney too - I look forward to seeing you around. Keep it on its wheels, Nath