redracer

I'm just wondering if you were only given the valet keys to the car and not the master key. You can tell if its a valet key as you will be unable to unlock/lock the boot or lock/unlock the glovebox but will be able to unlock the doors and start the car. I know the older camry's were like this but not too sure with your model. If that's the case you could probably give Toyota your car details and they might be able to cut a master key for you. Otherwise I'd say a locksmith is your best bet

yeah no wonder you couldnt open the doors, the key's definately worn lol. I have taken the door cards off before and never had any problems with rattling. I wouldn't bother trying to gain access to the door locks, its very hard and time consuming to gain access to them (trust me, i had to replace the door handle before and its not too fun) so best bet is to try the ignition barrel

Ok, i just dug out my manual. Supposedly you can disable the immobiliser after 30 mins. My manual states: ---------------------------------- IF YOU LOSE ALL REMOTE CONTROLS 1. Unlock and open either front door with the key (this is where you have some trouble therefore need the details on the ignition barrel) 2. Insert the key into the ignition switch and turn it to ON (did u have the key at on when you did it before) 3. Turn off all accessories 4. Wait approximately 30 minutes until the security indicator stops flashing. Do not turn the key during this time 5. Turn key directly to start and start the engine Contact your toyota dealer to arrange replacement and programming of new remote controls ----------------------------------

With the original keys, they were both solid metal (no plastic) but had the toyota logo on them. If it was an master key it would look similar in shape to http://s7.cdn.hardwareandtools.net/is/image/HardwareandTools/036448173938?wid=200&hei=200 whereas the valet key would look more like http://s7.cdn.hardwareandtools.net/is/image/HardwareandTools/036448181704?wid=120&hei=120 (not 100% identical but close enough). By the sounds of things the previous owner must of had a key cut thats not perfect because if it were the proper toyota key no matter what type it would unlock the doors (unless it was really worn). All I know is the actual remote is what disables the immobiliser and I believe that that's the only way to disable it. In the end it wouldn't hurt trying another cut key, it's not too hard to get access to the ignition barrel (you have to start by prying the U shaped plastic trim underneath the radio from the bottom corners of the trim, there are then two screws in the top corners to remove, then remove the two screws above the speedo, then you should be able to slowly remove the trim around the dash (the rest of the trim is held in by clips, that should then allow you to see the ignition barrel)) 1995 was the year they went from the gen 3 to the gen 3.5 camry therefore the process of disabling the immobiliser may be different to what I said before(i have the gen 3.5) Hopefully you have some luck (btw what actually happened to the keyless remote that locked/unlocked the doors - that is if you had remote central locking)

With the gen 3 (1993-1997) camry's the remote that unlock/locks the cars doors is what disables the immobiliser. I believe that the gen4 onwards had the chip in the key. So are you saying the remote that locks the doors is broken? Once you are in the car look inside the glovebox and in the top right hand corner there should be a slot to stick the remote (maybe try and tape the remote together if possible to fit in the slot)...if thats possible the security indicator on the dash should either stay lit or dissappear (cant remember exactly) and that should disable the immobiliser to start the car. It is odd that you cannot unlock the car doors with the key. Even if its the valet key you should be able to unlock the doors and start the car (it just wont give you access to the boot or glovebox if they are locked). Have you tried using the key on the passengers side door (ive found that if i havent unlocked the car doors by key in a long time its quite hard to turn the key) Thats the process in my car manual (i have a 1996 model). Also to program the new remote i believe you do need the existing remote ( you put the old remote into the glovebox slot and insert the new remote - if you get to that stage i can give you the programming instructions for a new remote) Hopefully that is of some help

Well I got my new remote from Toyota spare parts. I have also seen a few new remotes on Ebay but it's probably just safer just to order one from Toyota

When I bought my 2nd vdv10 vienta 2 years ago the remotes that I was given were close to dead. From memory it's around 40 dollars for a new remote and you program the new remote by inserting the old one into the slot and waiting for the security light then insert the new one and leave it (this was a little while ago so I might not be 100% correct) for a little while. Well the other vienta we have had since new and not once have we ever had problems with the alarm/immobilizer but with any 15+ year old car problems are to be expected. If you are happy leaving the old remote in the slot and using the key to lock the doors that should be fine. Why don't you just get a new remote and leave the old one in the glovebox if you were to run into problems down the track....

I'm glad it worked....Toyota did really think of everything when designing that model camry :) at least you won't have to carry spare remotes in the car if it were to happen again

Well if it's the same as my 96 model there should be a slot in the top right hand corner of the passenger glovebox. My manual states: 1. Unlock the front door with the key 2. Separate the key and the remote control 3. Insert the key into the ignition switch but don't turn the key 4. Insert the remote control into the slot in the glovebox and wait for the security light on the dash to illuminate continuously for 5 seconds 5. Remove the remote from the glovebox reader, then try to start vehicle. Hopefully that helps. It's a very similar process when programming a new remote.

I just changed the fluid on my 96 vienta @ 180000kms with no probs. I can't see why they wouldnt recommend you changing the fluid, probably to drum up extra business when ur gearbox packs it in.

I've been using the nulon 10w-40 fully synthetic in my 96 v6 vienta from 110000kms and have no problems with it. I don't know how well it compares to other fully synthetics but it does the job

I have to agree with you on that account. I was lucky enough to get a low milage example for a great price a few years back. At home we have two Gen 3 Vientas (CSI & Grande) and a Gen 5 Camry Grande. Overall, I prefer the handling of the gen 5 but in every other regard prefer the gen 3's. Even my parents prefer driving the old cars over the new camry

Yeah I forgot that the major service for the 1mz is 150kms. I started using synthetic when I bought my 96 vienta @113kms with no problems so I'd say you would be fine to use synthetic, just make sure you get the right viscosity (a lot of synthetics are too thin viscosity wise for this engine) I've been using nulon 10w40 fully synthetic without problems on mine, seems to be a pretty good oil. I'd also maybe run a tank or so of premium fuel and some injector cleaner just to be on the safe side.

The 3vzfe in your old vienta and the 1mzfe motors are fairly similar in design to each other so if your used to servicing your old car it shouldn't be much different.....I'd just check to see if the major 100,000kms service has been done yet, otherwise expect it to be a fairly expensive service. As long as it's serviced properly (like any car) you shouldn't expect too many problems from the 05 camry

I've been using armorall on my 96 Vienta for years and the dash looks great, no cracking whatsoever. Mind you, I dont like using it on our new camry, I use Meguiars for that...I'd say it just down to the finish and materials used.

I usually check the oil about 15-20 minutes after i've finished driving, this gives the engine time for the oil to drain back down to the bottom of the engine. It shouldn't matter if you check the oil either when cold or after letting it sit for a while. Always make sure you park on level ground to get an accurate reading. Pull the dipstick out the first time and wipe it clean with a rag then put the dipstick back in and then check for a 2nd time and repeat to get an accurate reading, wiping the dipstick down each time. I know with my V6 Camry the difference between the low and full marks is 1Lt. If i'd need to add any oil i'd just add a small bit at a time, let the oil seep down to the bottom of the engine then check the dipstick more than once to get another accurate reading.

I'm pretty sure it'll just be that the globe has blown. I had the exact same problem where the light filament burnt out and by knocking on the light cover the the filament would make a connection again and light up. I replaced the light and there were no more problems. About gaining access to the light there should be some bolts on the bottom of the console bin between the seats. Im not sure if the gen5's had any more bolts holding that part on.

Our Gen 5.5 was recalled due to an issue where a wire could corrode causing a short circuit which could lead to loss of headlights, etc http://www.recalls.gov.au/content/index.phtml/itemId/953496 Im not sure if that short circuit could cause loss of power to the radio though.

I do think the 3VZ's prefer V-Power over BP Ultimate. I had been using BP Ultimate while the Shell near home was being rebuilt. Anyways after switching back to V Power my economy figures dropped from the Low 9's to about 8.5L/100km (pure highway driving) and have remained close since (the iPhone Road Trip app works wonders in calculating everything and anything to do with filling up :P) But I honestly believe every car reacts differently to different fuels, its just working out which fuel is best for your own car.

It is true that some new homes have a thin layer of concrete...it's called a waffle slab....not sure though if a car Jack could do much thou but there is a small possibility that it could happen...

i also have a feeling that its exhaust related. when I first bought my car last year it would make a terrible rattle between 2100-2300. it turned out that one of the heat shields covering the exhaust went bad. ended up taking the heat shield off and the problem went away

ok now I'm slightly confused. Before I set off this arvo I checked the coolant levels and it sat just above the half way line and when I got home checked again and it was right at the full mark. When a car overhears doesn't the coolant expand that much that it flows out of the overflow. And if that's so if you were 2 fill the coolant to full when cool wouldn't it expand so much that it'd flow out once it warmed up....maybe I've stuffed up somehow and if so my bad.. :P

It does work....you have to make sure you extract the rar files and burn it as a data DVD. Have another crack at it as I know it works

Just a thought are you checking the levels when the car is hot or cold. When the engines warm the level in the overflow rises and when it cools down the level drops...but if you keep topping it off when the engines either warm or cold then I don't have a clue..

just having a quick browse on carsales & found this: http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=1230FA417B90 Its a manual, 73,000kms for $3,300......and also looks to be in pretty good condition... there are sooooo many Gen3 Camry's around so I dont think it'd be that hard to find one with lower k's and for a lower price :)