sv21_ownR

I dare say it does for the V6 Camry(not i4) and Es300, but don't quote me on that. Best way to find out is to look up a Monroe (or any other suspension manufacturer) catalogue and see if the part numbers match up.

The top tube seals are under the 30mm nuts. It seals the gap between the underside of the valve cover and the top of the tube. When you take it off, you'll know what we're talking about. Yes, it generally does leak in from the bottom - from the old factory 'thread' sealant wearing/degrading. You can try tightening the top valve cover nuts a little and see if the oil leak stops - if it does, then you know its the top seals. If it doesn't then it's most probably the other end but seal up both ends as safe measure. You'll be fine using RTV or the like - DO NOT use a threadlocker like loctite. Loctite doesn't seal and you you want sealant to do the sealing - so it's not by how tight you can do the tube up. When taking the tubes out, be careful with the pipe wrench/multi grips/ vise grips; you don't want to and gouge the tube up.

You mean keyless entry right? If you want keyless entry only, you can buy a 'keyless entry' kit from Jaycar for about $70 IIRC. Comes with the relay and remotes. Your other option is to buy an alarm kit that has a keyless entry feature.I know JB Hi Fi is selling one for $99. All you have to do is find where the central locking relay is and connect up the two trigger wires to the keyless entry relay/alarm relay. Well, a bit more if you want the indicators to flash when you lock or unlock I'm not sure if factory Toyota central locking are negatively triggered or positively. You'll have to test them. Do the negative test first test by earthing one wire then the other. If they lock and unlock, then you know it's negatively triggered. Vise versa for positive i.e. if power applied to one wire triggers the system then you know it;s positive.

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but you have potentially stuffed your AFM(sounds like you did). See in the pic how there's a thin metal band that ends by those small rectangular blocks on the top? You're supposed to un-clip the metal band there(with a paperclip/screwdriver or something thin enough to fit there) to undo the connector. By loosening the screws, you have loosened some of the wiring inside. You're only chance of reviving this is to cut the rubber seal around the black cover on the top and see if you can re-connect the wires inside. Other than that, it's a trip to the wreckers. p.s. AFM's don't need cleaning. It's the TB, butterfly valve and IAC valve that should be cleaned.

Try to clean the engine bay the best you can and inspect daily. Try following the drips and see if it leads to anything. When diagnosing oil leaks, you work from the top to bottom, so the first one people jump to is the valve cover gasket(VCG) and the seal at the distrubutor. Those tend to cause leaks on older cars. If not, then as mentioned before, main seals, rear main seal, dodgy welch plug or maybe even the sump? All done by inspection. Maybe it's not the engine, maybe it's power steering? Or transmission?

be careful, few years ago i contemplated same thing. executive has different wiring positions in the plug on rear of instruments. if plug same u may be able to change positions of wires. maybe contemplate an aftermarket tacho. :( It's possible to do it, so long as you take the connector from the donor car too, chop the old harness and solder the new one on. And yes, i4 and v6 tacho's/clusters are not compatible as they work off the ignition impulse from each spark of the engine.

No, it will not. It's fairly deep. Just pull the leads out and check. If you do have water down there, get a syringe or turkey baster, shove it down there and suck most of the water out. Then stick a rag down there to completely dry it.

If it's the dizzy/coil/plugs/etc, then you'll need to dry it all out. Compressed air can work well here, as long as you don't blast it right down the guts of the dizzy. +1. You probably got water down the spark plug tubes. As for the tyres, you can go to pick and payless or pick and pull to get 2nd hand tyres

There's nooo way someone would be bothered converting a Camry of this age from EFI to carby. So much more work than swapping then same, lowe km engine in. You have the fuel tank and lines to swap out, probably mounts and a whole heap of electricals to deal with. The universal joint is pretty cheap, like $20-$30 at the wreckers. Some might even just throw in the entire steering shaft just because they don't want it lying around. The hard part is maybe getting it off. You need several extension bars to get it off.

Hey, we have the same coloured Camry's *high 5*. Manual too, brownie points haha Anyways, power steering was an option on the Camry's. Even though pretty much everyone adds it on, there are the few that decided to be a cheapskate and don't. I have an EFI and it didn't have power steering; the original owner wanted the cheapest new car he could get that the time. Manual mirrors, windows, normal locking e.t.c. The second owner put air conditioning in (yay!) and i put power steering in. I can help with the heavy steering part. It happened to mine (which is why i converted), but it was as simple as changing the universal joint between the steering shaft and the steering rack. The bearings seize up and cause the steering to become heavy. In my case, the steering wouldn't self return and you couldn't turn the wheel when you went more than 50k's because the steering damper would kick in (increasing resistance). Otherwise, it means your rack is stuffed. Have you checked the tie rod end boots for cracks or tears? Are you absolutely sure the alternator doesn't have worn bearings? Could the clutch in the A/C compressor be stuffed? Or maybe the belt is slipping?

Small world; you must know Nick then. He's an apprentice at Chatty Toyota. I use Castrol GTX-2 and change every 6months or 500kms...roughly haha. Last oil change was done when i did 3k @ approx 7-8 months. I use Ryco oil filters. Had a spare Z158 and got a Z386. I think i'll get the Z158 next time (or whichever is cheaper/is in stock lol) as it means i can twist them on and off easily with those cotton gloves with rubber crap sprayed on the plam side. How much are the genuine filters?

It's kind of telling you you're running on the 'reserve' tank. Which really isn't the case, it's just a float(electrical sender) that is in the tank. When fuel isn't in the float, the resistance increases and turns the light on IIRC. But it means get fuel very soon! The capacity for my Gen 2 is 60L but the light turns on when there's 15L or less. However, with all that being said. I still wouldn't continue to drive around with the low level light with an EFI engine. It may start sucking air from the tank(when cornering or going up a hill), reducing fuel pressure and cause rough running/misfiring.

There's a guy who dropped a 3VZ into his Celica. Initial plans were to s/c it, but there wasn't enough room to mount the charger + hood clearance. I think you might find the same problem with the Camry as they both share similar engine bays. He has now decided to go down the path of turbo'ing it. You should first convert it to a manual transmission, that'll give you something to play with

Is there any reason why you want to change the timing belt/chain? If it is in fact a chain and you don't hear any noises (like a loose chain noise from a worn tensioner), then it's fine. This should be fairly easy and they will be able to tell you if it;s only the tensioner or if the chain is worn too. However, if it's a belt and hasn't been changed for 5 years. Then yes, do it, $300 is a good price. They change the belt, tensioner and ilder pulle which have bearings in them, they also do some seals. When replacing the waterpump, make sure they do the thermostat as well.

Won't work from a different make (i.e. Nissan) as the speedo pickup would be different, tacho would be way of if it even fitted and the same goes with fuel level sender. MR2 won't work, on a basic level as they used a different engine and transmission(hence the pickups for the speedo and tacho would be different already). The only way to change the cluster is if they digital gauge option for the Vienta and you could find one, it would be possible to do the swap. However, some minor changes will have to be made. That and aftermarket pod gauges. E.g. I know for gen 2 Camry's, they had a digital cluster, but swapping them required you to change the fuel pump and sender and the rheostat(dim/brightness for dash lights) and the wiring harness at the back of the cluster was different as well, so you needed to do some soldering.