2008camrydriver

Hi, thank you yes that was my next step, I was just asking if my thinking was on the right track.

Hi, I have a 2008 Camry with the dreaded left pull even after a wheel alignment. It's been an issue since I bough the car in 2018. I've read a bunch of information and I think I know what the issue is, but just wanted a second opinion before I go further. Toe is always able to be adjusted properly so is not a concern. The front Camber is different by half a degree side to side, with less negative camber on the left side which should cause it to pull right. I think it is set up like this to compensate for road crowning so I don't have concerns with this. However my main concern is the front caster, which is different by a quarter of a degree, with less caster on the left side which I think would be causing the left pull. From my reading this is most likely caused by worn bushings or a bent lower control arm (though I can't see anything obvious myself). Below are the figures from my last few alignments: Front: Parameter Left Camber Degrees & Minutes Right Camber Degrees & Minutes Camber Side to side difference Left Caster Degrees & Minutes Right Caster Degrees & Minutes Caster Side to side difference Left SAI Degrees & Minutes Right SAI Degrees & Minutes SAI Side to side difference Left Toe mm or degrees Right Toe mm or degrees Toe Side to side difference Target -0°45' -0°45' N/A 2°45' 2°45' N/A 12°20' 12°20' N/A 0mm 0mm N/A Margin for error (+/-) +/-0°45' +/-0°45' N/A +/-0°45' +/-0°45' N/A +/-0°45' +/-0°45' N/A +/-1mm +/-1mm N/A 2018 Before -0°54' -0°19' N/A 2°29' 2°47' N/A 12°29' 13°03' N/A -1.9mm 2.9mm N/A After -0°54' -0°18' 0°36' 2°41' 2°53' 0°12' 12°29' 13°02' 0°33' 0mm 0mm 0mm 2019 Before -0°46' -0°22' N/A 2°33' 2°49' N/A 12°26' 12°54' N/A -0.9mm 1.5mm N/A After -0°46' -0°21' 0°25' 2°44' 2°57' 0°13' 12°26' 12°54' 0°28' 0mm 0mm 0mm 2020 Before -0°43' -0°25' N/A 2°26' 2°52' N/A 12°32' 12°53' N/A -1mm 0.1mm N/A After -0°43' -0°25' 0°18' 2°20' 2°57' 0°37' 12°31' 12°53' 0°22' 0mm 0mm 0mm 2021 Before -0°38' -0°29' N/A 2°23' 2°42 N/A N/A N/A N/A -5.9mm -1.0mm N/A After -0°35' -0°33' 0°2' 2°23' 2°42' 0°19' N/A N/A N/A 0.3mm 0.4mm .1mm Rear: Parameter Left Camber Degrees & Minutes Right Camber Degrees & Minutes Camber Side to side difference Left Toe mm or degrees Right Toe mm or degrees Toe Side to side difference Target -1°10' -1°10' N/A 2mm 2mm N/A Margin for error (+/-) +/-0°45' +/-0°45' N/A +/-1mm +/-1mm N/A 2018 Before -1°35' -1°41' N/A 4.3mm 2.5mm N/A After -1°34' -1°42' 0°8' 2mm 1.9mm .1mm 2019 Before -1°45' -1°42' N/A 2.4mm 2.2mm N/A After -1°45' -1°42' 0°3' 2.5mm 2.1mm .4mm 2020 Before 1°40' -1°50' N/A 2.7mm 2.8mm N/A After -1°41' -1°46' 0°5' 2.2mm 2.2mm 0mm 2021 Before -1°33' -1°50' N/A 1.6mm 1.9mm N/A After -1°29' -1°54' 0°25' 1.6mm 2.0mm .4mm What are peoples thoughts?

Hi, I have a 2008 Camry and my mate has a 1994 Camry with a factory tow bar that he is scrapping. Is it possible to swap the tow bar from the '94 onto the '08, will it fit? Cheers.

Hi, has anyone had issues installing these factory replacement, aftermarket head-units? https://oemaudio.co.nz/product/lumina-audio-toyota-camry-2006-2012-multi-media-unit-navigation-compatible-x/ I bought one, and despite using the factory bracket and mounting holes, it ended up with a gap between the top of the radio and the air vents: The company I'd bought it from maintains they've installed tons of these without an issue, so I'm thinking there was either something wrong with this particular one, or that they are drilling extra holes in the factory bracket when installing...not something you would think would be needed when installing something that is supposed to be made for this car. The rest of the stereo fit in well. I've seen heaps of similar ones on places like ebay and amazon, and some of the reviewers on those ones have had similar issues, but others have been fine so could just be a bad batch or poor quality control by whoever makes the actual hardware. I ended up getting my money back and got one of these instead: https://www.gtacarkits.com/product/toyota-camry-2007-2011-iphone-aux-kit/ Just wondering if anyone else has tried a similar thing and what they needed to do to get it to work?

Hi, I have an 08 Camry in NZ with black fabric seats. 140,00Km. Seats are in good nik, but just wondering if I should get seat covers or if they are likely to last a while without. What is peoples experiences?

Hello, has anyone had problems with water leaking into the boot from around the rear window in a 3rd gen Camry Sedan? If so, did you fix it and how did you do it?

Yeah, thats why I think it's not required, as the belt tension seems fine without it. The idler pulley sat just below the alternator pulley and pressed on the OUTSIDE of the belt. There is a thread for it on a bracket that comes off the side of the alternator. Does that make sense? The tech had installed it as when I got it back there was sqeeling sound coming from the engine (I assume this was because the idler was loose and in the process of falling off). Then the sqeeling stopped and when I went to find out why thats when I saw the idler pulley sitting on the floor of the engine bay. I remember it's location from previous work I've done on the car and confirmed the location of the thread for it.

No, thats for the TIMING BELT. I'm after information the Alternator/A/C compressor belt idler (it's also called the 'fan belt'). I think if the one of the timing belt idlers had fallen off I would stranded with a big repair bill but as stated the car runs fine. I need to know if theres anything wrong with not re-installing this idler pulley.

I guess I'm also trying to find out WHY it's there in the first place...it dosen't seem to need it. the belt is under the correct tension and there is no flex or slippage of the belt, even with hard revving of the engine. Also the fact that it's not mentioned in any of my workshop manuals (which would have the bolt torque) is interesting.

Good morning all, I recently had the air con serviced on my 1994 3VZ-FE Camry and have noticed that the idler pulley for the Alternator/A/C compressor belt has fallen off (I think the tech didn't tighten the bolt back up properly). I'm just wondering if it needs to be re-installed as the belt is tight enough and I haven't noticed any side effects from it?

Did a bit of diagnosing today and found the following: - When on maximum cooling the AC compressor works, the engine idles up like normal and the cooling fan speeds up to maximum. Looked at the sight glass and it is clear when running and foams up then clears when turned off. There is also a temp difference between the compressor inlet and outlet pipes. However the system is still working intermitantly, and the other day wasn't working when I got to work. I'm begining to think it's an electrical problem...just not sure exactly where. If it is it will most likley be a wiring issue or a faulty sensor issue, possibly the low pressure switch. Has any one had a similar issue? If so what was the outcome? To reiterate: When the system works it works great and like it always has since I got the car. When it dosen't the following happens when the fan is on and the AC button is pushed: The ac button lights up and stays lit. There is no sound of the ac compressor clutch engaging or the evaporator working and no engine idle up.

Hi all. I live in quite a humid area so need the air con running on cold mornings to keep the window de-fogged, however the last few mornings the air con hasn't turned on as normal. The fan is on and when I push the 'AC' button the light comes on and stays no (no flashing) but theres no change in engine rpm or the tell-tale hissing of the evaporator working, and the windows stay fogged. The stange thing is that once the engine has warmed up a bit it works fine!!! I don't know if it's to do with the winter cold as it's worked fine before even when the car has been completely iced (which was only the other week!). I just want to know if someone else has had a similar issue or if anyones gotr any ideas before I start diagnosing. Quick stats: '94 V6 GL (NZ) 374,000Km Manual air con system.

Been raining over here in Wellywood for the whole weekend...Monday morning comes round and surprise surprise there's a 5 car pile because people weren't increasing their following distances. Luckily no one was hurt but hopefully all involved learnt a lesson. Any bets???

I usaully flash my hazard lights or brakes lights to tell them to backoff...If they don't I then slow down to increase my following distance from the car in front of me (if theres one) so if he stops I've gotmore time to stop slower and hopefully avoid the **** behind ending up in my boot!!

Just took my 94 V6 Camry for it's 6 monthly warrant of fitness and the tyre tread on all tyres was about 4mm, the same as last time. In that time I've done about 9,000kms in that time.

Everyday I commute into work and back and come across a whole bunch of wheet-bix box licence drivers. I'm sure everyone does...this is your chance to vent about the people on the roads who just make you want to despair for the future of driving kind.

In seeing the driving habits of my fellow commuters/holiday makers I think the best safety improvement I could have is an idiot detector. However I don't have the money nor the evil-genius to invent one and my car already has it's active safety sorted, short of retrofiting ABS. So if I can do something to improve the passive safety then I will.

Fair point...who sells new ones? Are they stocked by autoparts shops or do I need to go through Toyota?

I know that the generation after mine has webber-grabbers so if can find them out of a car at the wreckers that has just broken down and not crashed or maybe buy new ones from toyota or an auto-parts supplier. No idea who sells them though.

I have a 1994 Camry which has inertia reel seat belts and I'm wanting to retrofit some webbing-grabber seat belts (see: http://dogandlemon.com/media/Safety%20PDF/...20Restraint.pdf for more info) which are safer. My car dosen't have aribags. I'm wondering if anyone else has done this to their camry and what they did.

I usually let mine idle for 30 secs or soand then go gently till warmed up, however if it's really cold I'llusally leave it idling while I de-ice the windows, which is usually a few minutes. I think I as long as you keep up with your oil changes the motor will be fine.

*bows to superior forum skills*

Click on this link http://www.toyota.com/venza/demos.html and then click on 'V6 engine' to see a really cool 3-D annimation of the Aurion engine as used in the American Venza.

Anyone know anyone who's created a 3d annimation of the 3VZ-FE? If you click on this link: http://www.toyota.com/venza/demos.html And then click on 'V6 engine' to see an annimation of the 2GR-FR used in the latest Aurion and Venza(US), among others.

Had a look inside the dash by removing the glove box and the rattle sounds like it'scoming from the gap between the air vent/underside of the top part of the dash. It actually sounds like the plastic inside the dash itself is rattling so maybe this would need to be replaced....fun.