lulchul

Searched the forums and couldn't find an answer to this yet. So what's the consensus about Max Tyre Width on the atx/prodigy gsv40r (1st gen)? I've been running Michellin Pilot Sport 3 16/55/225 for the past year, been great. However, recently done a rotate at Jax and they reckon 2 of my shocks (front LHS and rear RHS) are failing. Bit of oil seeping out top (hardly noticeable, dust covering it mostly). Unrelated? No signs of rubbing I can see with the 225's but wondering if anyone else had any experiences. Cheers

Good question... I've never seen any of these 'traditional' items mentioned in the Aurion service book... big hmmmm...

My hands up for one of these, just the unit, no reverse camera.

Seen a few reviews of the Primacy LC having poor to bad performance in the wet, did you see those reviews? I too will be looking for replacement for my 16" Prodigy soon, however I'll absolutely be wanting to change from the stock 215 width to 225, and todo so believe I need to reduce my profile from 60 to 55 - I'm fine with that. Worth the extra 10mm of width on the road!

It's not that hard to do for the Aurion. Once I do mine I'll post up an FAQ for people who want to do one themselves. Unless there's already one posted here somewhere It may not be the difficulty, but rather the time and patience involved. It would be good to buy a pre-made solution like this for the Aurion, but so far I've only seen them in the States. Agreed, pre-made solution would be great. This looks to be the idea here unsure whether that's a custom job though. Feel free Benji to post a "guide/how to" if you make one. Sure many folks would appreciate. Thanks

Anything like this available to buy for the Aurion??

M1 EP 5W30 is a Grade 4 synthetic oil. Take 10 mins or less to Google it yourselves if you wish.. Best regards,

I've beeb running this stuff in my Aurion for the past 2 months. Done 2 trips up NSW coast since and general round about town here in Sydney. What can I say? All seems good. It looks like the genuine product - don't know if there's such a thing as fake? The labels look very high quality/original with like a 'dimpley' feel - strengthening my hopes of it being genuine. The original seals on the bottles seem reassuring. I purchased the M1 EP 5W30 in a box of 6 x 1quart. It's just under 6Lt in metric, but I found, unlike all places saying the 2GR-FE takes 6.1, 6.2? Lt of oil, when changed with filter, Mine, when fully drained and new filter, only took about 5.8L. Even after driving around, most I could top it up with was a 100mL before it reaching the upper level on the dip stick. Yes I drained it fully on a flat surface till there was basically no drip. Shrugs. Oil seems clean as - but it has an amber 'tinge' (spelling?). Apparently what the M1 EP product looks like (found out from half an hours research at the time). M1 EP, or Mobil1 Extended Performance, as far as I know is the highest quality fully synthetic oil available (other then high end specialty oils like amsoil, etc, tho those products are all debatable apparently..) here's an example of the M1 EP 5W30 product that's thankfully available for us. To make it better, Nick from Gl Lubricatants, who's the eBay seller of those items, is an absolute champion! I had him tack a 1quart bottle on my order cause I found out re the 6.1 6.2L issue. His communication was 2nd to none. Pity I never needed it. 5w30 would likely be most appropriate for most ppl's Aurions in AU I'd say. The aussie retail 'fully synthetic' M1 products, containing 'synthn'? or somthing like that, I dunno.. might be same stuff. All I know is this is the US product and there's been tests conducted on it, and it's the bee's knee's, so they say. Best regards.

BP Ultimate 98 apparently has the lowest Sulfur content of any of the PULP's. This is a benefit to the cat convertor and the reason 'fuel smell' is not so evident.

Thanks mate - Did it contain the Clem7 / Centenary HWY adjusts? If not, do you still think the maps themselves are an update as such? Dunno which to choose - Sensis/Whereis or Navteq(??).. What the diff's??? Is there a way to check what kind one is currently running? All I know if I have iGo 8.? (have to go and check.. 8.3 rings a bell but) Thanks

cool.. balls stated rolling thanks.

Thanks Arc. See the SST 6.9's there are $299, at my rip off merchant they're more than $100 cheaper, otherwise another option cheaper than FHRX is Ryda. I'm gunna try here to get my $ back.

Can't comment on those but the 6x9's I decided on were the Soundstream sst6.9. Can't believe it but! - retailer I purchased from - Direct deposited money nearly 3 weeks ago - got a automated order placed email, but that's it. No other replies to my inquiries, phone goes straight to voicemail :( upset... So avoid http://www.icaraccessories.com.au at all costs - any advice on how to chase this up now to get my $ back?? Fair trading ??

What's the max width rubber I could fit on the stock (16") Wheel width? I know my stocks are 16/60/215 at the moment, could I sqeeze say a 16/60,55?/225 on, without changing my stock 16" Alloys? (I have Prodigy 07) According to these specs at CarBudy, the 16" stock alloys are 6.5" wide. Cool little Tyre Size Calculator I found here, according to which I could go 225 or 235, so apparently I can.. hmm.. What's possible concerns? Wouldn't the rubber be buldging over the sides abit? Isn't this a safety concern, i.e. cornering and the tire could pop off! or something? lol If no real concern, and I can go 225 or 235, can anyone say whether it can be done on the AT-X or Prodigy (pretty sure they have same suspension setup?) without having to roll anything or change any suspension Thanks

Definitely is annoying... how great would an ECU flash fix be!

I just replaced the stock HU with an aftermarket, and boy the SQ is much improved (must be better internal amps), anyways, after close listening/panning between the rears and fronts, with a variety of tracks, honestly I'm hard pressed to say the SQ at the front's is a problem!... Certainly the rear's are far from great, but the front's, perhaps because they do have reasonable crossover and the staging due to physical seperation, music sounds great imho, even bass is respectable thru those stock front door drivers which surprises and confuses me! (again perhaps due to separation of frequencies) Sure, I know better speakers will be *better*, but just thought it was worth mentioning that after my HU upgrade, I'm hard pressed to observe anything lacking via the front stock setup (I have studio monitors /w high end soundcard in the house) So certainly initially anyway, think I'll only be replacing out the rear 6x9's (with likely the focal 690cvx or soundstream sst6.9)

Thanks for your comments and tips Freedy ;)

are you going to use coaxial 6x9's? or component? If coaxial, won't that potentially cause a prob having 2 crossovers (the capacitor on the coaxial acts as a crossover), if not, surely it wouldn't be as good single one.. ? To access the tweeters up on the dash, do you just remove that plastic grill that's about 3x3" in the corner's? (I tried but it was pretty tough, didn't want to break it - you don't have to remove the whole dash do you?) Didn't know 6x9's come in component setups..? If not, I think a few have used 6.5" setups, but I recall seeing pics of woofer and tweeter being mounted on a piece of MDF down on the door ...(so what, those setups have 2 tweeters? Wouldn't it be better to just change the one up top to the new aftermarket item, and only have one tweeter and one crossover?)

Vinh.. Have you been in my car?.... hehe! Many thanks! Exact unit. Looks like it's confirmed now Conroy. Thanks guys.

Hmm.. perhaps.. I've only had the car 3 days - it was an ex-company vehicle. It has a Nokia hands free kit in it - but it's the stock Aurion headunit/stereo (which on the Prodigy I thought was non-Bluetooth unit?)

Thanks for the post, advice and shared experience Conrod. B)

Anyone know what the single beep means, that occurs around 30sec, once the engines started? It's a fairly low tone, and sounds like its emitted thru the front speakers, or predominately coming from the dash anyway. No warning indicators show on the speedo. Car drives fine, but it's got me wondering.. couldn't find the reason in the owners manual nor on the forum. Thanks

Ok.. thanks for your reply unique. I'll keep my nose on it I guess! Most research says it's not overly concerning.. one of two places said however that the 'bad egg smell' is a result of troubled engine internals - hoping that's baloney .. Picked up a bottle of Fuel Doctor - hope it performs per their claims.

Hey guys, Finally purchased my Aurion! Prodigy with 32,000k's on it. Pretty happy. (ps. Can an Op update my car from Camry 05 to Aurion Prodigy 07? I don't seem to have access to do it) Fuel was nearly empty when I drove off, so I put 40litres of Shell V-Power 98 in. Drove around around 35kms to get home, and upon arriving, got out and copped a big bad ROTTEN EGG SMELL. So upon googling, including two threads on these forums - this thread being one of them that mention it, hard driving seems to be the main blame, however I'm not quite guilty of that, sure a few 'put my foot down's' for 5 seconds, but seriously just that, 2 or 3 times over a 35km trip! So I can't buy that. However on these forums, it notes that Shell V-Power has higher Sulphur content then BP Ultimate.. Do folks recommend a 'tune up' ? Don't the ECU's/computer 'train' themselves now, air/fuel mix, driving style, etc? Are 'tune up's' (i.e. air/fuel mixture readings/adjustments) required to be performed manually (surely theres no grub screw adjustments?) or via a toyota dealer with a special machine that plugs into the ECU, etc? Since I bought from an auction, I can't really 'go back to the dealer' as such.. and they'd likely just blame the fuel anyway. Don't want to go to the hassle of changing plugs, oxygen sensor or injectors if not required at this stage, as I'm guessing they'd not be. Thoughts? I'm thinking the best thing to do is drain the fuel, or pump it?, into my ute, then use BP Ultimate 98 as it apparently has a lower Sulphur level. this Siphon and this Siphon Pump look pretty useless, as a guy here says. Any advise for a better pump to use? Some research mentions normal Siphoning no longer may work due to ball restricters...? Also fact that Siphoning has to be higher, I don't really have facility to jack higher than a few hundred mil.. Thinking a drill pump would be good? Something like this apparently Bunnings have them for around $25 (albeit not likely rated for flammable liquids, however does seem to be a problem doesn't seem to be a problem..Otherwise, do we know if there's a drain plug on the Aurions fuel tanks? I'd like to avoid removing metal fuel lines, etc. Thinking the drill pump is my easiest and cheapest bet, I want to get this sulpur rich fuel out asap. Others have probs with V-power at all? (never had a prob with my Civic..) Thanks

Hmm.. we'll leave it then. Looks too costly and uncertain.. Does the Reverse Camera give folks a bit of assistance at least, on say the far right of the cameras field-of-view, as to see how close you are to the gutter when reverse parallel parking? Slightly off topic perhaps, but obviously a Presara has the topics functionality. I can't go at the Presara heavy woodgrain presence though, so, to make it more Prodigy looking, is there a way to rip out/replace the centre console wood grain look and replace with the silver plastic as in the Prodigy?, and also the Steering Wheel... just a plain full leather one as with the Prodigy. Any ideas of price? Thanks