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troubled

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Everything posted by troubled

  1. I've seen the belt tensioner flicker at idle on my dad's presara for a few weeks now, during idle it would make what I can only describe as ticking noises while it bounces back and forth, if you give the engine a rev and hold it at any rev that is more than idle then the noise and vibration from tensioner stops. Over the weekend we decided to change the tensioner, contrary to the service manual the bumper, radiator etc does not need to come off. What needs to come off are: left wheel apron and the exntending piece;v-bank cover;top radiator cover;air cleaner assembly;top hose going into radiator;Exhaust cover;Fan assembly;thermostat housing (probably not needed if you have small hands);alternator; andair con compressor (but don't disconnect it)Then you will see the 5 bolts holding the tensioner. There's no need to disconnect the a/c compressor, just moving it out of the way is sufficient. There were no tricks involved, just lots of time spending working out what was going on. The whole job took about 7 hours from start to finish but realistically it should take about 3. There's a rear bracket on the alternator which took me about a half hour to figure out, should have referred to the manual but I'm not one for instructions. If I was the whole radiator, bumper would have been removed. Tensioner on it's own cost about $360 (Ryde Toyota), I was quoted $900 for labour by Toyota. A mechanic elsewhere said he was unable to quote until he does the job and how much time was spent but his estimate for labour was $500. In hindsight, should have done the water pump too. Good luck if you're going to have a crack at it!
  2. http://realgy.blogspot.com/2011/12/toyota-corolla-service-manual.html This is for ZRE142 which I believe is the American model, also their 10th generation.
  3. Supercheap Auto currently have special at $25.70 each. Normally $35. Supercheap Sale is for 1 week I believe.
  4. What you need to watch out for with the clock spring is once you remove the steering wheel, if you break the clock spring it will cost you $600 or thereabouts to replace. When refitting the clock spring, it may seem that thing will just turn and turn, it actually doesn't I think it only turns 4 revolutions either way. Clock spring is not fragile it won't fall apart on you, it connects electrical for your steering wheel switches. Getting the little fog light indicator to work inside your cluster is something that still eludes me. Toyota doesn't seem to have a part number for the globe. They suggest I buy a new cluster which costs $700 just for the driving light to display. If anyone has a part number for it, would appreciate it!
  5. My car was 5 months out of warranty, admittedly the noise was there before warranty expired but I just never bothered. When the intermediate shaft started knocking too it sounded like a 2 band orchestra in the car so I decided to get them fixed. I was expecting a bill for the repairs and surprisingly toyota covered both parts under warranty as well as replace an oil hose that was recalled..? Maybe just ask a few questions. If all else fails you can throw them the Trade Practices Act and say the car is not of merchantable quality, to a reasonable person a car that is less than 4 years old should not rattle.
  6. Hi everyone, Has anyone had a play with throttle controller? How effective are they? Thinking of getting one to have a bit of a play.
  7. Steering wheel needs to come off for the stalk to be replaced. I just used 4.5 allen key and it did the trick to take the steering wheel off. Now I've done it, I reckon it will take 30 minutes from start to finish, it's actually quite simple to do.
  8. Just a little advice to people that are going to do this conversion yourself, becareful of the clock spring in between the stalk and the steering wheel. The thing has a 5 turn lock to lock, it felt like it just keeps turning, anyways, the thing is $476.30 to replace and I am replacing it today.
  9. My speedo was not proportionately slow like Daryl's.. I was consistently 6km/h slower than the actual speed. Speedo:Actual Speed 40km/h on speedo = 34km/h actual speed 60km/h on speedo = 54km/h actual speed 80km/h on speedo = 74km/h actual speed 100km/h on speedo = 94km/h actual speed I guess one can learn to just drive 6km/h faster than what the speedo actual displays but I thought by bringing the argument to Toyota I had nothing to lose apart from sounding like a male chicken. I think Toyota has calibrated my speedo; it is spot on all the way to 170km/h.
  10. I goto Lander for services, I feel their service staff are under some sort of bonus program, how much in servicing comes through under their name etc. Having said that I haven't had any problems with them returning my calls, I must admit I don't call their general number, I call direct through to the guy that I deal with. On 2 occasions he answered the phone and third occasion he returned the call after about an hour. He has suggested to me to bring my vehicle into the workshop between 2:30 to 3pm each day, that is when all their mechanics have finished their work for the day and are ready to go home (3:30pm) so they have plenty of time for fault finding. I'm still doing the $120 service and have 1 more service to go, they have been really good at replacing things for me, if they don't get the problem the first go and I need to revisit they usually give me a loan car for the inconvenience.
  11. If anyone is interested in downloading the episode. http://www.mininova.org/tor/2705428
  12. I think we all know about Aurion speedo being 5-8km/h faster than actual speed. I called my local Toyota last week, told him my speedo was 6km/h out and I needed it fixed, he said if I was doing 100km/h that would be 5% out and it is acceptable upto 10%. I politely told him that my car never goes on freeways but it ferries my kids to and from school (which was a lie) and most of speed zone the car travels in is 40km/h and being 6km/h it effectively is 15% out. Without any hassles he ordered a new dash cluster and replaced it for me, now the speedo is exactly the same as my tomtom unit. So if your cars are still under warranty, you are certainly able to get it replaced/fixed.
  13. I'm the worst person for keeping receipts, sorry. If you call their parts department I'm sure they will tell you the same price. (02) 8884 4888.
  14. Hi guys, Just curious if auto locking door is a programmable option on the Aurions. On my Audi if the car is moving at more than 10km/h all doors automatically lock; would I need to look at after market units in order to have this feature?
  15. I got mine from Lander Toyota Blacktown NSW, it was $88.60 including GST.
  16. When are you coming to Sydney next? You can put the lights in for me and also wire up that thingie mijig you mentioned to allow my stalk to stay on auto.
  17. When these blow, I will get better ballast, had no idea what I was buying the first time round but now I will know! That's right, I also like my car to tell me when I should turn my lights on or off! How about if I just keep a LED torch in the car, when I turn on the reds and headlights switch on, grab the torch shine it over the light sensor to turn the headlights off, start the car then turn the torch off! Or maybe I should just keep starting the car with it in Auto mode so either bulbs/ballast will blow then I get proper set which will save all this mucking about! Thanks Daryl for letting me probe your gray matter.
  18. I'm not concerned about the lights blowing, I'd rather the convenience of auto lights. Accordingly to what you've just said, my ballast doesn't have voltage stabiliser built in.. so what's the easiest way for me to leave the lights on auto and have both lights come on everytime after starting the car? I guess I can buy ballast with voltage stabilisers but how do I tell? Or what other easy way is there?
  19. My question is for all the people that have converted over to HID, do you leave your headlight setting on auto? I have found if in auto mode, when starting the car at night light comes on first when ignition is switched on; then when you crank the motor the lights dim sometimes either or both lights will be switched off by the ballast due to current drawn by the starter motor. Is there a way around this?
  20. I think all 3 photos for that matter...
  21. Still waiting for my stalk to come in then I can start, but might put the lights in tomorrow, looks like a simple job. Lights screw up to the bar then the cover just clips in from the front, shouldn't take more than half an hour.. stalk should take some time though... Sorry, but pictures were taken with my phone... will use a camera when I am installing.
  22. On the tomtom you just need the ov2 file, you can set distance from camera before warning. File is only 11KB, if you want to try it, let me know.
  23. In S mode kick down happens earlier so you only need to give your throttle a quick jab and it will kick down a gear, whereas in D you probably need to go quarter way down before kick down will happen. When it kicks down at quarter throttle, you almost need to back off immediately before going over the speed limit where as in S you get kick down and hence more power with less acceleration if that makes any sense.
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