Bobjones

Do you guys HONESTLY think stock pads are going to handle the way you drive... Its one of the first things I upgrade on any car (that I intend to mod)... EBC's are good pads, but they are dusty...at the end of the day a harder pad is more likely to wear disks quicker and also work at higher temps to... Endless are overprices unless you are doing some serious track work... Bendix Ultimates are good if you can get them...have run them on a few cars with upgraded rotors and they have been fine, only when you punish them will they start to fade, and sometimes that is also as a result of the fluid getting hot and the lines heating as they are rubber...another two items that should be upgraded... Its all about a compromise...

And no TRD Badge on the grill section :(

Dyno time at $110/hr... thats cheap... But not worth it IMHO... <_<

Is there any way to adjust the idle???? I have had a minor blip on the weekend, other than that the thing idles at 500 or there abouts normally... Oh and this is an 01 Conquest

Ummm, so your going to do your own porting... I am also very sceptical that porting the headers is going to release that much...I thought the 2ZZ was decently matched...considering the porting and head work that goes into them from factory they would be relatively matched to start with... Obviously, the matching will have greater benefits if head flow is improved, but each to their own...I wonder how long it would last before they crack <_< I am just saying there are plenty of other mods that would be more beneficial BEFORE heading down this path...

3-4kw...at what cost...what about some cam's first????

Hmmm I think they will need to find a replacement especially with the HSV Astra and the new Focus FP5... Oh and I might add...I like my 10 year old GREY IMPORT TURBO MANUAL!!!! I own the corolla for fuel economy, not to be a sports car...don't get me wrong I like the sportivo and have driven a few, and owned a couple of "hot hatches" but they will never be drag strip or track warriors without large sums!!! I think toyota would be STUPID to not replace the Stivo, admitedly Nissan did not replace the SSS, but then again, it is part owned by Renault and they have the Clio Sport...

Woops missed the Sportivo bit...

If they are not factory fitted then they have to be ADR approved, which most are. You will also need to notify your insurance company as this is still classified as a modification, and as such they may not cover you in the event of an accident.

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...?showtopic=2012 Download the Zip File and then look up the ECU

I would like to see how long the gear box lasts...otherwise that is a huge amount of torque for a relatively light car... Competition, me thinks it would hose a stivo down the strip...I wonder if it likes the boost wound up

Unless it is Summit Racing in the US, who I have dealt with extensively for the last 10 years personally, and have had many a drag racing friend deal with for decades... Then no... www.summitracing.com

And also additional tyre wear on the outside. This can be somewhat counter balanced by toe adjustments if you are driving on the street. Northy is right, it will provide greater turn in thus reducing understeer, however, this will also have the detrimental affect of causing rapid oversteer should you push the limits into a corner (ie go to fast).

Now that is better... Northy...what are you on about... :P

Thanks for that, me thinks the Kind Low's may be the way to go... Also Danz, thanks for the input, I set up drag cars and track cars...and as I said in my post I do not wish to go down the swaybar path on this car as once you start this there is a host of other things you SHOULD do...all I am doing is lowering the centre of gravity thus reducing initial inertia and subsequently body roll, sway bars would enhance this, however they will be limited in their effectiveness at this stage due to the high centre of gravity of the car to start with... Also the springs assist in reducing the affect of unsprung mass (which also affects body roll), thus why standard shockies wear out quicker resulting, unless sprung to heavily, is greater road holding, especially when you consider that most front wheel drive cars have a tendancy towards understeer, made worse by heavily weighted springs causing massive bump steer. In the end there is a compromise, especially for a street car. Geez, sorry about the short novel.... :D

Otaka, so that is standard rolla with the Stivo springs??? Got pics??? I mainly want to reduce the body roll, without going down the roll bar path... Price of these retail??? EDIT: $317....fark off :o

Anyone got a link of those VW's being kitted out like a Porsche...same thing...show without the go... The 3S-GTE engine is nice, atleast its cheaper to service than a N/A V12...

Northy, Just to add, I did this, however I found the following beneficial (this is similar to both Toyota and Nissan ECU's with the learning function) 1. Disconnect battery, pump brake, this eliminates the requirement for leaving it for 1/2 hour as it drains the residual charge from the entire system. This is all I did before connecting and driving it hard with all accessories off. I did not do 2 or 3 and seemed to work fine. I did this after changing fuel, fuel filter, and air filter. Seat of the pants it feel better...but dyno proof would have been better!!!

Now I am confused... I will have to go out to one of these meets to compare me thinks... Last night I jumped into the skyline after driving the rolla for a week...OMG they are such different cars...need to lower that rolla...

No one should ever use "black and gold" filters...$20 damn I get my K&N ones for the skyline cheaper than that... :o I will find something I had ages ago re testing done on filters and post it if I can find it. Basically it was a comparison between the generic filters and factory ones (mainly nissan in this case) and found that the factory ones are far superior than the Ryco or Valvoline ones...

Mintos is always joking and providing little input... Threads providing information turn into spam threads if this occurs...thus my reply Buddha. Oh and there is always room for a joke...not a joker :D

It still looks like an MR2...have a look at the picture second from the bottom on the left...unmistakeable...

I have always changed the filter with the oil...otherwise you run the risk of crap from the filter going through the new oil... This is more inherent in turbo's as this is used to cool the turbo but still I have always changed both and so have my engine builder and mechanic mates... Also its like a $5 part of something, get them to change it!!!

That VW is/was smick...would definitely make a grown man cry...especially if insuance does not cover it........

I thought some people on here may find this to their liking... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread...27&page=1&pp=25 Oh and it is meant to be a joke before the flame war starts...