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jat

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Everything posted by jat

  1. jat

    Not quite a snow test

    Hi TAKA, I don't know weather you like Indian or not but sure u like their curries, you are invited for indian curry at my home .You will surely like both curry and Indians too. Cheers, Jat
  2. jat

    Fog Light install

    Hi guys , just want to tell that i have bought after market fog light i have notice that there is a vent to aircon on left side thru fog light .so you have to make space thru the side grill of fog light otherwise u r blocking it.
  3. Here goes *keep in mind this are just my ideas I apply to all engines from my racing rotaries to my little 3.5cc Nitro Methanol RC buggy* (I build my own engines and pull apart many so its the basis of my ideas behind run in) Do not apply any great load on your engine until properly warmed up (even after run in) *temp needle has stabilized mid way* * My KX-s had 11km on it when I picked it up. 1. First step (sub 3000rpm) No speed higher than 80kph for first 200km - very light throttle application (1/4 and avoid any big hills and if approaching any use minimal power) - vary speed if possible but not crucial at this stage 2. Part 2 (sub 3000rpm) - 200km with speed increased to 90kph - 1/4 to 1/3rd throttle but again taking off like the proverbial grand mother is the go still here 3. part 3 (up to 3500rpm) - 200km with maximum speed lifted to 100kph - same 1/4 to 1/3 throttle, still not using any great amount of available power to accelerate vehicle, as a guide you should be getting 10lt per 100km region in non city (excessive stop start) driving to give you an idea of how gentle I do this phase (by this time your @ 600mk covered *if it applies to your car*) and now you can start to find a nice area and manually control the gearbox to allow the revs to be held before its allowed to shift into next gear 4. part 4 (4000rpm) - 200km maximum speed to 110kph 1/2 to 3/4 and NOT FROM STAND STILL YET but from 40 to 60 kph I hold the gears working them from 2nd to 4th and shifting at 3500 to 4000rpm as your accelerating, either up to speed or up a hill, hills are great as they will impart good load on the engine and facilitate correct level of sustained load on the engine to seat critical elements like piston rings, bearings, etc, combined with the higher revs will do a good job of this. 5. last stages (4500 rpm) - 200km same max speed 110kph 3/4 throttle majority when accelerating (still not from a dead stop but as explained above) but using up to 4500rpm again only possible by manually flicking lever, on hills or inclines I use these as an opportunity to hold the load for longer, like accelerating in 3rd gear from about 60km to 105kph or so at 3/4 throttle etc then changing to top and finding next bit of suitable road to repeat this. In my last picture of the 83km trip I did this acceleration procedure about a dozen times? or probably more. To know you have done a good of fair job your exhaust system should be blue/ brown in color from the end of the catalytic converter to the start of the big muffler opposite the petrol tank. This basically means you have made enough heat and worked your engine to an acceptable level to allow a proper break in. **me personally I change my own oil and only use Mobil 1 5w-50 grade, after 1000km running on factory oil (semi synthetic) I will dump it and the oil filter as its done its job, the Mobil or similar quality has far great level of protection from my experience and after break in I am focused on reducing as much wear as possible not promoting it, I use 50 weight on the high temp end as it is a thicker viscosity when warm and it provides far lower wear and far great protection of the engine in hard conditions for a documented reduction is metal inclusions in oil analysis between services (engine not getting eaten up! to save .1lt per 100km!) 30 weight hot oils like factory prescribe are too thin and while giving marginally better fuel consumption they come at a cost, greater engine wear and tear. I will post up my economy figures on Mobil 1 5w-50 for anyone concerned on interested on its effect of the factory filled oil, I doubt there will be any difference here.** After you have reached 1000km and progressive step up of load and revs the engine should be happy enough to accept some full throttle applications, again I would limit the use of this from a dead stand still as your still breaking it other parts of the car like the gearbox, differentials all joints and bearings. I think if you employ this or another break in procedure you will have a better overall car that should return great economy and power, but also other drive line parts will be long lasting. The idea behind it all is no matter how good parts are machined/manufactured (I am a mechanical engineer and also a machinist by trade) there will always be a basic mismatch of elements be it a simple ball bearing running in a race or a something more complex like a piston ring in a bore, there are literally thousands of such interfaces in your car and all of these need to be given time to "find their own place" as a mating part to another. Basic stuff like the rear diff on my 16km drive at 80kph back home from my local dealer was running quite warm for such a short journey (this is due to stuff like seals and gears generating excess heat from rubbing various high spots etc and thus developing heat) these things settle down allot over time but if you give excess load to these items before they have a chance to settle it then they wear funny as a result. I dont want to worry anyone who has not had the opportunity to do this in such an anal way as id do all of my mechanical items but its just a thing if you have the opportunity to do then it can be shown to provide positive effects in terms of longevity, efficiency, and basic power output as well. For those who have taken time to read this and think oh I missed out on doing that or cant do it due to various practical restrictions please don't feel bad, i have had many company cars that I TOTALLY RAPED from brand new (full load full revs from dealership door!) and they all survived a total flogging (some I owned to 220,000km's)... economy I never really monitored though nor was concerned about long term quality of car but I'd say its probably all marginal at end of the day, however there is benefits to be had if you can do so. Good luck and enjoy your Klugers :D I'll post up some more stuff as I get along with mine .... IF I can stop driving it and staring at it when parked haha hi, I just bougwithh kxr fwd done only 500km milage coming up 15.9l/100km using coles premium petrol.I drive very softly.I am worried is there some thing wrong. Please advice. Regards, Jat
  4. jat

    Running in the car

    hi, I just bought new kxr driving very softly done 500km avg coming as 15.9l/100km.Is that normal?Please advice
  5. Hi I got my new kluger last wednesday. No need to go for whole car tinting just front will be fine , I got mine for 55$ each but choose wrong film titanium oxide best matching is carbon one.one thing i also like share 35% is legal darkest film which is lighter than other window if you chose further dark in case of event insurance wont cover you.be carefull. Jat
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