playwme

Photo is of the passenger side and the image has been reversed so that all cars face the same way in the magazine/paper. Note the fuel filler door, which is on the passenger side of that model Hiace.

Not unless you have a good welder. Mounting points, shape and dimensions will all be different. The new commuters have a wider body than the standard Hiace, where the older ones were the same width for short and long versions.

Most likely. Couldn't see it being worth the hassle. The front hubs need to be swapped over to take the sensors and I think CV's also as they have the teeth to activate the sensor. Considering how cheap these are, you'd be better off just buying a higher spec model. My V6 Manual Conquest with cruise and Towbar cost me $500 at a damaged vehicle auction with 170'000 on the odo. Repairs took less than an hour, it breezed through the inspection and was on the road with rego for under a grand,

Mate, that would be awesome if you could. The actuator is the unit under the bonnet that pulls the cables. It's usually got a 4wire plug. I have a rogue 4 wire plug on the passenger side of the engine bay right up near the strut tower and wondering if that might be it. There seems to be another plug inside the cabin, passenger side behind the glovebox where the ECU is. Wire colours looked similar so thinking they may be linked.

Any chance someone with factory cruise can post a few pictures of where the actuator plugs in under the bonnet and if you've delved far enough in , where the control module is located and the plug/wire colours that go into it. Mine came with no cruise and I wanted to try and fit a system from an Avalon (have an entire donor vehicle). Mainly curious as to whether mine has any relevant wiring installed in the harness already.

Yeah, they're genuine toyota. Can't say I've ever seen a Gregory's or other third party one. Those are next to useless anyway. I've got a Gregory's for my Camry and there's a whole heap of discrepancies in it. I suspect a lot of the info is for US spec Camry.

I'm contemplating doing it. I've got the inlet manifold off already to change injectors and knock sensors so figured I might do everything while I'm there.

CIR is Computer Integration Relay, and from looking at my Haynes Manual (also useless) I think it's the bigger black one right next to the ECU. Photos in this manual show a different dash than my Camry and a different remote. I'm thinking the photos are of an American model or the previous model Camry.

I've got 3 of this model Camry and none of them have buzzers of any kind for keys, doors or lights. I'd be trying another remote first.

Sorry, I was running off memory last night and it obviously sucked. As Mr2 said leave the switch in the on position the 3rd time, the hazards don't flash going into program mode but the security light comes on for 5 seconds. Pressing your remote button while the security light is on should register it to the car if it's working. If you can get hold of another known working remote then you should be able to check that your receiver is working properly. You can also do other things while in program mode. Press the horn to toggle the "horn chirp" when locking or unlocking. I think you can press the door lock for 2 stage unlock (first press unlocks driver door only, second unlocks the rest). You can set a headlight off delay as well. Turn the headlights on, leave for your desired delay time (5 to 60 seconds) then turn lights off.

It's reasonably easy. I've got mine currently pulled apart for the same thing. Waiting on injectors and some other stuff to do while there. Mine was in a 2001 Tarago with a short little bonnet too so a nice wide Camry engine bay should be a walk in the park. Be sure to drain your coolant first. Hardest part for me was cracking the bolt holding the fuel hose to the fuel rail. Had to use some heat as I didn't want to snap anything.

The remotes are programmable. To put in program mode doors shut, headlights off, turn ignition on and off 3 times. Hazards flash to indicate programming mode. Press the button on your remote within 5 seconds and if successful the hazards flash again. I had a bunch of used remotes I recently sold and checked them on my own car before shipping out.

Yep, that's about the value. I paid $500 for a V6 with half the kms that needed less work, and got given a v6 wagon with high kms but runs flawlessly. A head gasket leak is much more than $100 in parts. By the time you replace all the gaskets you've removed, plus the hoses that split during removal, put in new coolant etc.... And that's all assuming nothing else is wrong with it. Car yards don't like major mechanical repairs unless there's major profit and it's cheap enough for worst case scenario.

That sounds likely. Those sensors are usually part of the airbag system from memory and they don't generally have a reset switch or anything like that. It's designed to register a single sudden stop.

The factory Toyota ones pop up every now and again. I got the full set of 4 in perfect condition off eBay for about $30.