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Everything posted by CHA54

  1. More than 10 years and 100,000km boosted on the original unopened engine, still going strong, making more power now https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZyUDaGo0EU4
  2. can't leak oil from the waterpump. It could be leaking from a number of places in that area, usually from the cam cover seal, but could also be from the vvt solenoid o-ring or the front timing cover to block interface (which is sealed with form-in-place-gasket/gasket goo)
  3. you will get a performance gain, good for the gain and sound. 70mm diameter seems to work best on the 1zz's, with CAI and 2.25" exhaust you can expect up to 90kw atw. Standard 1zz will do something in the 70's
  4. That's one of the worse service histories I've ever seen where they haven't actually thrown away the log book to try and hide the history... I'm very confident the valve stem seals require replacing and I'll bet the combustion chambers could do with a good de-coking also. The PCV would have been gunked up previously making the valve stem seals leak more, so replacing/cleaning the PCV would have made it a little better as it reduces the crankcase pressure on the stem seals. If you want to re-create the smoke on the road, flick it into manual shift mode so it will hold the gear you'
  5. it should fit with some trimming/bending of the sheet metal where the bend is that puts the pod in the guard in the facelift. There's less space there compared to a non-facelift.
  6. I wish you the best but in my experience, with an engine smoking that bad an engine flush and oil change will do nothing to resolve the source of the problem (Valve Stem Seals or ring problem)
  7. valve stem seals is my bet. Get it compression tested to ensure it's not a ring/piston issue and check the valvetrain isn't sludged up under the cam which would indicate poor service history
  8. welding is required for a neat intake. 2x 90degree bends and a bit of straight will give plenty of material to fabricate one
  9. less time and effort to buy one is about the only benefit if you can fabricate well and get the MAF flange right. Custom made will get you the shortest length and best route with optimal diameter
  10. might scrape in for $10K, depends on how much labour you do yourself. MWR has a good selection of parts, I'd do rods and pistons as a minimum: http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/index.php?cPath=318&sort=2a&page=3 If you're building the motor you might aswell ditch the supercharger and go turbo instead, easy extra 100kw
  11. CES is overpriced for what it is, I make my own. The TRD is a good intake, people that have problems with it need to clean their MAF.
  12. TRD intake is 70mm, some places take the easy route using readily available 3" tube which is 76mm and then it runs into issues with the stock ECU not being able to correct enough for the change in airflow with the MAF sensor.
  13. The AE92 has an Ebay china ae92 alloy radiator which I moved the inlet and outlet on to suit the 1zz: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111698739459?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The ZZE is still using the factory Toyota radiator
  14. It's finished, currently a garage ornament
  15. The turbo ZZE is getting a couple of new stablemates... Have had a couple of AE92 Corolla's sitting in the backyard for the last few years, they're both now also getting turbo 1zz setups :)
  16. Pumping the pedal has no impact on fuel pressure, have you checked the TPS signal when hot?
  17. That's the non-drive-by-wire diagram. Not applicable to your car. It uses the external cruise control actuator motor like a cable throttle ZZT231 celica
  18. you will need to run 2 new wires from the body-side of the clockspring. One to the ECU and another to the engine ground loom (Brown wires that ground in the lug that bolts to the end of the head near the radiator hose connection). I don't have a DBW 1zzfe diagram handy, but the 3zzfe is very similar and has a CCS pin in position 24 of the 35 pin ECU plug. If you're lucky the ECU will be cruise control enabled and it might work. You may also have to check if the cluster actually has a cruise light and that is wired to the ECU also.
  19. you need a different clockspring with the pins all populated. You can't share the horn trigger
  20. Yes, the pump and filter assemble into one unit in the tank accessed under the rear seat. When a new filter assembly is installed, care must be taken to not pinch any of the O-rings on the fuel pressure regulator or pump outlet, if this happens you will have fuel pressure related issues. Another thing to check is that the tank has it's breather clear. When it's been sitting hot for a while before you try to start it, undo the fuel cap first and see if there's a large whoosh of air from the tank as you unscrew the cap. Re-reading your original post, it states the plug leads were changed
  21. Off the shelf injector cleaner is nowhere as good as removing the injectors and having them cleaned properly. Did the hot-start problem exist before changing the pump/filter assembly? Cleaning the MAF is also a good move if it has never been done before, the intake air temp sender resides in the MAF assembly also.
  22. It's only $3K for another used long motor if you grenade your current one, go ahead and be their guinea pig ;)
  23. Yes, powerfc is archaic in comparison. USB connection to laptop, MAP sensor or MAF sensor, 4D maps, VE tuning, knock control, direct wideband input, etc etc etc

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