CHA54

cluster's now fully wired in, here's a pic of the gauge lighting, I ordered them with red backlights to match the original twincam stuff. I couldn't get a pic showing the odometer properly, it's not that bright in real life.

do an ecu reset and fill it with 98 octane fuel. With that done, that's about the max power you'll get from it without spending another 2-4K on an ECU and tune. Extremely low bang for buck.

That coming from the salesguy doesn't suprise me at all, given they've got a surplus of auto's in the first allocation.

sure does, it actually requires high compression to work best.

Placing my order for a silver GTS tomorrow Bill, you know I like high compression turbo setups ;-) I'll be purchasing a spare long motor just in case though :P Luckily there is a supply of the ~100km old test motors available and not much demand for them. This may also be of interest to some of the track oreintated guys, stolen from another forum: The lap by the non-tuned 86 w/ standard tyres: What about changing to 17inch w/ better rubber?: Lap time with the 17inch wearing Advan Neova 215/45/R17: What about changing to 18inch with better rubber?: Lap time with 18inch wearing Advan Neova 235/40/R18:

On the dyno you'll find the FA20 will put down closer to 25-30kw more at the wheels compared to the 20V. It's got more power and torque throughout the whole range than a 2zzge. Here's a dyno graph of the FA20 v's 190hp 2zzge in the elise: That's an american dyno but you can see it's ~123kw which is quite a bit more than the typical 80-90kw a stock 20V will put down. They're already getting 5kw atw gains from cat-back exhausts alone, I'd expect 10-15kw more and deletion of the torque dip with full exhaust and a reflash with ECUtek or Romraider.

I can't wait either, all the little stuff takes so damn long to complete though :P Here's the finished instrument cluster, fitted out with speedhut gauges:

what oil weight are you currently running? 20W50 may be too thick for the vvti to function properly given it's designed to run 5w30

the stock LSD is torsen, you can get an aftermarket plate LSD if you wish.

They're built in the subaru factory so should be perfectly fine in terms of build quality.

new key probably has the remote built in like a late model toyota ley.

The lock type on toyota's is negative trigger. Tap the alarm control wires in to the door control module which should be near the drivers kick panel.

on a jap built car, you can see the stamping on the firewall just above the second red sticker from the left in the pic below. In my experience this is where 90% of toyota's have their VIN stamped.

on the build plate.

the frame numbers are standard across the model range. Eg, as far as toyota is concerned, an Aus delivered "pre-facelift" ZZE123 has a frame number of ZZE123R-GHFQFQ The VIN is the individual identifier.

not too much big stuff, made a throttle cable bracket, made the loom for the speedhut cluster gauges, installed central locking and full alarm, relocated the battery to the boot. Next up is finishing the fabrication for the dash cluster so the interior acrylics can be re-assembled, then modifying the AE92 GTZ seats to fit the ae82 floor. After that I'll be getting stuck into the body prep ready for paint. Battery relocation: http://m.ak.fbcdn.net/a6.sphotos.ak/hphotos-ak-ash3/s320x320/546546_10151104798294377_712499376_13464319_781715977_n.jpg http://m.ak.fbcdn.net/a8.sphotos.ak/hphotos-ak-ash3/542546_10151104801304377_712499376_13464326_1746190515_n.jpg http://m.ak.fbcdn.net/a8.sphotos.ak/hphotos-ak-snc7/459497_10151104803139377_712499376_13464339_1401267326_o.jpg Throttle bracket: http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/380312_10151108337234377_712499376_13476812_1037353766_n.jpg http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/385677_10151108339679377_712499376_13476817_6680057_n.jpg Powersteer Cooler: http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/463951_10151130950834377_712499376_13546316_1613316370_o.jpg Radiator Overflow tank: http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/477866_10151130956894377_712499376_13546364_647286418_o.jpg Widebody Camry rear door grommets used for central locking loom: http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/459189_10151148375964377_712499376_13609523_292483355_o.jpg

if the info plate isn't riveted in they bay, it's usually in the passenger door section of the body.

you getting them flared properly (cut inner skin, flare, weld in new metal) or just getting them done with a roller/mallet?

pull the ignition coils out of the head and look for hairline cracks down the side of the body. If there's any brown tinges aroudn the seams then it's likely they're arcing out to the head.

they wont replace the bar on that, just refinish the rear quarter to blend the paint. anywhere from $300-600 would be my guestimate, possibly more if the person you hit gets a hire car etc from AAMI

better video:

just adjusting the idle speed

Finally got the car running, fired right up after getting the trigger offset correct and idle duty sorted. For some reason the audio from the video recording of my phone is completely screwed up, in real life it's buttery smooth and exhaust is quiet but deep. Need to tweak the acceleration enrichment to get the throttle response right but happy with it for the moment. Bay looks a bit messy as I've got the timing light setup in there and a few random temporary vac hoses and power cables. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8AsSOIyuHA

so where are the photo's of the rear tyres tucking in the guards?

any of the current range of modern ECU's should be able to do the job. I had a Vipec V44 for mine but managed to get a cheap Link G4 Extreme on ebay so I'm now using that instead. It has a lot of advantages over a powerfc, some being: closed loop boost control using just a mac valve. This can be based on gear, speed, rpm etc... I'm using gear-based myself for traction in lower gears. closed loop knock control Launch Control Onboard datalogging MAF deletion - the links and vipec's can retain the MAF if you want, I've gone with a MAP sensor and intake air temp sensor in the plenum. user definable closed loop fuel control flex-fuel compatibility, you can add an ethanol content sensor to your fuel system which gets wired to the ECU, then you can set the maps up to adjust fuel and timing based on the ethanol content and temperature of the fuel. No need for an FC Datalogit or FC-Hako for laptop connectivity/data logging additional outputs can be configured for whatever you want, waterspray, shift ligts, warning lights etc. Find a tuner you trust with your engine and see what they recommend.