2zz corolla

Sold

Yea I will when I get a chance just a little busy these day.

Price drop to $150 I now also have a free flowing mid pipe which contains high flow cat and resonator all components are mild steel accept for varex which is stainless. I could sell the complete exhaust including varex for $400 All items I believe are only about 8-12 months old

Hi For sale is a varrex cannon muffler with module and 2 working remotes I'm not quite sure on size I think it's a 2.25inch. This muffler will bolt straight on to a corolla sportivo. Reason for sale came on the car and as it's my daily I'm chasing a standard look. Asking $250 Preferably local buyer

Hey mate might be interested in the resonator you have for sale where are you located?

Just bought a 03 corolla sportivo which had a varrex remote control 2x5 inch exhaust and high flow resenator. Long story short the cars my daily and I'm not chasing performance so I would like to buy some ones standard resenator.... Regards

Mm I cleaned the maf but haven't had a chance to check o2 the car does smell like it runs rich. Other then that runs perfect and fuel efficency seems very good. Maybe I need to clean idle speed control valve looks like a nightmare to get to though. Another werid thing I noticed Is after 20 min drive idle seems to correct it self. So to recap cold idle perfect Engine up to temp idle as low as 500 rpm 15-20 min drive idle back to 700 800 I probably should do ecu reset

Hi there sorry if this has been discussed before. I did a bit of googling and aparently it's normal but I don't understand how Toyota could sell cars with such a rough idle. 2001 echo sportivo 120k on the clock The car is perfect when cold but as soon as it heats up the idle can go as low as 500 usually sits at 600. It doesn't idle hunt just feels very rough. If I turn air con on the idle increases slightly maybe 100-200 rpm. Surely this isn't normal?? Because its a older 1nz it has cable throttle so I was thinking of just adjusting idle screw to increase idle but I'm wondering if a sensor may have failed. Car is perfect otherwise.

It's not the same car but similar. I bought a echo sportivo which uses same motor and I was pleasantly surprised with the power it's enough to get around easily in manual form and to have a bit of fun. The echo sportivo is a little lighter though

thanks for every ones post ill look into it this weekend or next, hope fully find some thing simple. I did recnetly get the front rotors machined and a new resonator installed so might be some thing to do along with those. I know the exhaust does sit lower now and i had to remove the black little metal support under the car as it was hitting that constantly. Cheers Dave

your not in brisbane by any chance are you ?

ts definitely coming from the front of the car but having trouble pin pointing it as i haven’t had some one else turn the wheel yet so basically i just got my head out the window trying to generally pin point it . It is a little hard to believe it could be cv's cars only done 80,000km but i guess time will tell. suspension bushings was my first thought as it doesn’t really sound like a cv joint it just a slight tick like tapping two marbles together. cheers dave

hey tocau I have just noticed a slight tick when the car is cold or doing very slow left or right turns .... you can feel it slightly through the steering wheel. Its only 2 to 4 ticks through the whole turning proccess e.g turning the steering wheel from the very left to the very right and vice versa. I had a look at the cv boots and they look fine with no oil on them and no holes, the car is lowered with king l/sl combo, koni fsd shocks and i made sure the boot was in nice and tight when installed them a couple of months ago.... has any one ever experinced or heard of any thing like this, any info would be greatly aprechiated so i can help the mechanics try and get an idea where to start looking. Thanks Dave

ive found those iphone apps to be pretty inconsistant at times. only thing i could get a consistant time out of was the gtech the best i achieved in standard form with a gtech or lie tech as some people call them was 7.2 to 97km ( only does to 0 to 60mph) so probs 7.4ish with a quick change. from my understanding alot of the tests over in europe hit around 7.5 , as long as you can keep it in lift and get a solid launch your sweet. Only way to realy know the potential of a cars straight line performance is to take it down the quater.... Dave

To just drop the lift point its not realy worth it as total cost could be up to $1500 depending on who tunes it for you and if you run into any un for seen problems. If your looking at modding such as cams after market throttle bodies ect then yea i would recomend it , I wouldnt realy call the power fc a plug and play device ive had it for a couple of months with the harness and still trying to figure out little issues here and there. If you havent done intake and exhaust/headers i would do that first much more bang for buck over power fc. dave

sorry my bad ! Ahh yea , yea i watched him he didnt play with it but i guess maybe i could adjust that to get it to idle lower its starting to get a bit on my nerves , i am tempted to drive down south to as i hear theres a guy that can re wire the standard loom making so you only run the power fc ? i noticed that when i pull up to a stop the car sits at 1400 rpm then if i rev the car to say 2300 and then let off throttle it bounces back to 1100 , from my understanding though even if i took it back to where i got it tuned, the tunner cant adjust the idle can he as its all controlled by the standard ecu ? this idle problem is the final thing left and then i think ill finally have solved all the issues lol. cheers dave

champion thanks for free bump

good point ! that 2 grand does include the labour required which is most of the cost so if you can do it your self i think it only costs about 1 grand for the bearings , seals and all the syncros.

hey mate i had that exact issue at high revs. i replaced my gear box fluid (i use castrol syntrax 75w 90 and nulon g70 additive) problem seems to have gone but i am sure it will come back after 25,000km or so, i dont think you will ever get rid of it unless you spend 2 grand on a gear box rebuild and replace the syncros. do you know when your gear box fluid was changed ? Dave

Hi tocau Got my power fc installed roughly 3 weeks ago and loving it to be honnest. i had a quick question in regards to what are the average idles people are having with there power fc coneceted in with a conversion harness. mine seems a little too high and i was wondering if theres any thing that can be done to fix the problem. ( p.s i had a play in the idle section of power fc doesnt seem to do any thing accept for when i play with the fuel cut but that just makes it idle very rough.) my current idle cold 2500rpm engine warm: 1200 to 1400 rp, ac warm: 1500 rpm If any one could offer some advice that would be great thanks , i have got the car profesionaly tunned and done that crazy long idle procedure. cheers dave

Did a search and found that members were using 32 and 34mm radiator hose atachments. i installed a 34mm one on my facelift stivo yesterday, it worked but would recomend to use 32 as 34 is a little too tight. Dave

awsome find thanks!

Hey alf Did you manage to figure out what size the top radiator hose i am asumming its about 34mm, i am also trying to do some thing similar. Cheers Dave EDIT looks like i have answered my own question 32 - 34 will do the job .

Interesting do you have a pfc , what other mods do you have if you dont mind me asking ? cheers dave