Lukeywunda

HI, Our switch stopped working and found it was stuck inside, a squirt of wd-40 fixed it.

http://www.shop1auto.com.au/New%20towbar%20pages/Towbars_Toyota_Corolla.html Looks like they are the same.

Mines built in SA, does that count? :P

I wonder if there's a way to check if cars have had the ECU and gearbox checked by Toyota re: the recall. A silver sticker inside the drivers door pillar should be there with a number and a date. http://www.recalls.gov.au/content/index.phtml/itemId/957102 . Interesting site at recalls.gov.au I wonder who owned the two corolla's in 2003 who had a recall?

This is what happens when you use 'poo fuel in your stivo' http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking Use 95 ron or higher, clean the fuel tank filters, info found on the forum, and service the car with all appropriate oils and fluids changed so as to wipe the slate clean, so to speak. Happy lifting and welcome, the forum should give you a few days worth of reading. :D

Not far from the top of the thread( page 3 or 4) I found this; Glenroy is not too far from Melbourne is it?

Read the start of the forum. http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php/forum/4-corolla-corolla-sportivo-club/ That should give you a fair idea as to what you should look out for. It might take a couple of hours to read but hey, you will soon learn about the mighty power and fun the Corolla Sportivo brings to your life. It is a hard car to let go once you have released the power of 1hp to one CC. Buy one that is factory spec., the value will only increase. Being driven hard is expected, as to a 'normal car'; revving to 8200 brings on the adrenalin, and the ever wishful event of changing gears whilst in 'lift'. There are no real problems with the car and every car is different, however, if the deal is to good to be true then be wary. Aggressive they are not, I would say stealth. Take one for a test drive and scare yourself (freeway on ramp, 98 in 2nd). As I said when I bought mine 5 years ago, 'this going straight to the pool room it'll be a collectors item one day'.

You are insured with AAMI, then I would take it to the assessment centre and have the assessor hear what noise you are referring to, (lifetime guarantee). You have had a lot of nuts and bolts undone. It might be worth the time of your mechanic to check and tighten every bolt that you have had undone. Otherwise a "pedders 1575 point safety check" or equivalent might bring the problem to light.

The site you have referred to is for a rear wheel drive car, all of those symptoms happened on my 1975 Hilux. There aren't U joints in a frontwheel drive car as far as I know, however, there are constant velocity joints attached to the drive shafts in a front wheel drive car. It could be the bearing on the drivers side drive shaft. If you lived a bit closer I would say bring it over and we will have a look. As RedSportivo says, "If it was bent they should have replaced it". What are the details of the accident? Is your insurance company a life time warranty type?

i always followed the manual's recommendation and jacked them at the jack points with no problems. only one time i lifted the car incorrectly and the car dropped sideways (almost on my foot) and i bent one side of the bottom of the jack and bent a few metal parts where the jackpoint is. but that was my stupidity. anyways to answer ur question. u CAN put the jack stand where u lift the car using the OEM jack but make sure the contact isnt where the notches are. u want the jack stand to fully contact all the side of the frame. Thanks guys. Is that ok where I put the jack stand? You could put it there if you are sure it will not crush the join. If you look a little further under there is the subfame put it there. Rule of thumb is to spread the load as much as possible and to use the strongest part of the frame.

Empty your glovebox, take out your spare tyre and tools, remove the cover on the hatch (mine rattled, so it is gone), remove the sound deadening from inside all the doors and under the bonnet, loose 20kg yourself, remove the cover from the Cat converter, lightweight battery, drill holes in non vital panels and trim, I'll sell you a straight pipe so you can remove that heavy rear muffler ( very loud but I think sounds better than most cannon exhaust), use shaved tyres, take out your golf clubs etc etc. My ideas for your mission.

I don't put them under the jacking points of the car, they need to go under the sub frame. I don't jack the car from the jacking points either, I use the front transaxle crossmember (the one with the tie down point on it) and then I put the stands under the subframe mounting points. If you go a little further under the car from the jacking points you will see where the sub-frame bolts to the body. I have Stanfred stands that fit nicely in between the two bolts. I am sure others will have other ideas. But if you put them under the jack points you will crush them.

http://www.glenroyexhaust.com.au/index.php Haven't used them, don't know anything about them. Website looks good and I would at least give them a ring to see what they are like. Just as a side note, have you done anything with the intake side of things yet? The biggest change in my car was removing the horn from the airbox and not worrying about a CAI yet.

What he said, looks like the wrong nuts for the job.

The top of this forum is a good place to start.......