SCOOTA44

Hi Daryl, I got my adaptor the other day and used it as is, worked fine, then tried the 2.7 insert and got an error within half an hour, gone back to the original setup and no problems other than it seems a little "sluggy" taking off.

Personally I dont care what they call it,to me its a TOYOTA and thats all that matters. I love it , my customers like it. as I watch the falcons and statesman's fall apart around me, I know the aurion will still be a winner.

Hey mate. bit slack at work today. ripped the rear mufflers off an put 2.25 pipes out. sound great when your up it,(real crisp) but bad drone in auto. ok if you stay in sport mode and dont go over 4th when cruisin round town, but dont want to waste the money on expensive cans that do the same thing. value your tests. That answers a question I had about removing mufflers and having just pipe, I still think a sporty muffler where the original resonator was and small resonators where the mufflers went, dont know but just a thought.

good idea as the intake does get hot while stopped or in slow traffic, once its up to normal speed the cooler air drawn in cools the intake. sheilding it would help,similar to the K&N sheild.

HOLY COW kelvinator for camry. lol

Correct me if i'm wrong but the only parts that may need changing are the timing chain tensioners. (how many BA fords do you hear with their rattly timing chains?).

This reply will cover both the trans sevice and dealer servicing queries,. Had my aurion booked for trans service 2 weeks in advance, due today but they didn't order the gasket, so after leaving very unhappy, I was pleased to get a call from service department that they acknkowleged the error and will service the transmission for no charge. Very happy that a service division can rectify a problem to the customer satisfaction. thanks CO-OP TOYOTA HOBART.

Its definitely not an aircon smell, its a sulphurous rotten egg gas smell and its only there after heavy throttle usage. Its strange that I haven't noticed it before but maybe I'm giving it a bit more throttle now that I've gotten used to the power of the Aurion, its certainly a bit addictive - my old Landrover Discovery wasn't nearly as much fun to punt around. I have noticed this a few times going uphill and stopping at an intersection, it seems that the exhaust fumes float up and get sucked into the air ducts for the cabin.I dont think its too much to worry about.

I am wondering about this as well. You are referring to the part where the two headers join inot a single exhaust pipe right? The picture looks like it joins them smoothly. Really nice! Outside of the header, piping sizes, cats and resonators, the only thing that may be worth changing is the mufflers themselves. If you remove the stock one, take a look at how the exhaust flows through it. If it appears that the exhaust flow is not a straight/direct flow, then change it out for a muffler that has a straight through flow. Just make sure the muffler itself is a decent size so that it actually does some muffling rather than making a lot of noise. I actually went from a staight through to triple flow sports muffler, give a better note than the straight through ones and give a nice rumble at revs. In reference to the front header yes the stock pipe does go into a larger diameter piece, and the rear one is that size right up to the manifold down to the merge. As dicussed in earlier threads these "pressed cone" collectors are thinner than stock pipe, due to their shaping therefore prone to sound leakage (buzzing) this is why Im thinking of either getting another manifold to cat and start again or measure up spacing for 2 oval cats and twin pipes from there.

I personally would have still left the front engine mount connected to the vacuum line, but if you're fine with it that way, than okay then. I would if could remember which one to connect to (pelham down to smaller hose and larger hose to the intake???)

Its taken a while but here are photo's of the exhaust mod. everytime I look at it I think more about a twin system,Im sure it could be done if you could place 2 hi flow cats side by side. I should stop thinking, it cold get expensive !

When you get rid of your stock airbox, you can connect the vacuum hose direct to the plenum without the need of the one-way valve. The purpose of that valve was just so the intake butterfly would stay open under low vacuum conditions. Thanks Daryl, thats how I have it now. I dont have the front engine mount hooked up, just tucked the hoses away, could not tell difference with it connected or not. cant wait for the MAF adaptor to arrive so I can build this intake properly.

Try Greg at GSL RallySport on 1300 884 836. thanks I will get quote, got to get themsent to tassie though.

Sorry it will be $56 at the door, cant wait to rebuild again as this part has caused me some concern for some time. can anyone tell me the vaccum pipe off the phelam chamber does that go straight into the intake or does it need a "one way vaccum valve" like on the top of the original airbox, or just plug it into the intake after the MAF ?

I chopped out the "pre cat on the rear bank, but I had to put sensor on the front bank to stop the errors. Im keen for another setup.

was thinking of changing rotors, got slight shudder going downhill 80km/h, quote $240 DBA's slotted.

Booked in next friday (16th) for my trans service now im aproaching 150K, they tell me to allow 4 hours as the trans must be refilled small amounts at a time warmed up in between top ups. Think the quote was around $200 + pan gasket. Will be interesting to see if there is any change in the gear changes.

you may find that it might be the power steering pump, or the aircon making the whining sound.

Thanks for the info, have got one on order, $46.25, the reduction idea is interesting Daryl.

good work Daryl. where do you get the MAF adaptor ? I cant find anything like that here in hobart, even our "autobarn" is closing down so choices are very limited.also I have found if you slide battery as far to the left as possible and put in your stone tray mod, it will draw cooler air from inside the guard rather than the hotter air off the fans/radiator.

Yesterday I added more pipe to the cold air feed and out of the bottom of the stone tray (idea from Daryl) to set up a "forced induction" of the cooler air, almost straight away up came the CEL. It seems if you push the air in too much the MAF throws a wobbly,works better naturally drawing air, and after resetting the ECU and driving all day today no problems.

welcome to the group. Im impressed with the merge mod, much better than mine (anyone got a second hand manifold to cat ?) kept the equal length, I wish I had done so too. enjoy the club.

I have never seen these before thanks Fuel Miser, I bet being TRD parts they would be in short supply and would not fit the stock aurion. very interesting all the same.

What filters the cold air? Are you supplying unfiltered air directly into the engine side of the filter? If so then virtually no air will be sucked in from the engine bay. I suggest if you are it is not a good idea. Dirt, dust, water etc will have a direct entry point to your beast and this will not be good. NOTE: water injection into an engine has a major cooling effect/performance boost to an engine, this was used in spitfires during the second world war as a last resort to avoid the enemy. The down side after using it is the engine would need to be rebuilt. They also had access to very cold air whilst flying. Try and avoid this scenario, its very costly. If the filter was inside a sealed box and then had the cold air feeding it then guess what ....... it would be like the original setup with non-genuine parts used. This is obviously what you are trying to avoid, I guess. I have mentioned before about using a velocity stack arrangement and if you can get this setup right you can even get a slight ram air effect going. See this link, they got it wrong with a velocity stack - they original setup was better. http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/41302-velocity-stack-dyno-results.html The ram air intake works by reducing the intake air velocity by increasing the cross sectional area of the intake ducting. When gas velocity goes down the dynamic pressure is reduced while the static pressure is increased. The increased static pressure in the plenum chamber has a positive effect on engine power, both because of the pressure itself and the increased air density this higher pressure gives. Ram-air systems are used on high performance vehicles, most often on motorcycles and race cars. Ram-air has been a feature on some cars since the late sixties, but fell out of favor in the seventies, and has only recently made a comeback. At low speeds (subsonic speeds) increases in static pressure are however limited to a few percent. Given that the air velocity is reduced to zero without losses the pressure increase can be calculated according. The lack of losses also means without heating the air. Thus a ram-air intake also is a cold air intake. In some cars the intake is placed behind the radiator, where not only the air is hot, but the pressure is below ambient pressure. The ram-air intake effect may be small, but so are other mild tuning techniques to increase cylinder filling like using larger, fresh air filters, high flow mass flow sensors, velocity stacks, tuned air box and large tubes from the filter to the engine. I have used the stock resonator on the throttle body, then the pipe with the maf,the pod on that pipe, then a cold air feed into the conical end of the pod. This feeds up from the bottom of the guard. although its not totally cold air, it is cooler than the short system and testing on some hilly ,windy roads yesterday using S mode sounded and accelerated beautifully, (the kids got a thrill).