SCOOTA44

Here we go again, anyway another version, a bit of both worlds, so far so good.

or you just had a dodgy setup to begin with and now you are feeling what a normal Aurion feels like This edit: does anyone know where the comp is located? small black box under battery base, the replacement unit has "V2" on the top.

that looks very neat, couldn't do that with the sportivo though, only the prodigy or presara.

sorry guys I dont get on the forum much these days, way too much time in the cab. Anyway I agree with the cold air theory, as I had noticed it seemed to have more power during the cool of the evening. I again took out the airbox and have short ram, and of course it sucks hot air, so Im going to try to rebuild the CAI in the guard, just a couple of questions, the vacuum hose from the intake chamber, where should that go? and the vacuum hose from the engine mount, should I just not bother with that? oh and a third Q, I have had trouble with the trans going into 6th at highway speeds, it will only change into 6th when i level out if i have been going up slight incline, what sensor controls this ? thanks for any help.

Mine varies a bit depending where Im working,. Around the city start stopping hills etc 11 to 12 tank average a few highway runs to the airport 10.5 to 11 tank average. Still way better than a ford. :P

Well back to the drawing board, got frustrated with the intake and put back the original airbox for now. to do what I really want I would move the battery tray on the airbox support and have a straight run to the guard rather than too many twists and turns for cleaner air flow, only worried about battery getting too hot towards the back of the engine bay.

If you have any warranty left and can replicate the problem to a toyota mechanic, they may replace the transmission ECU with a 2009 software upgrade this is what I did, which fixed the problem.

Today I drove 50 meters and noticed the VSC and Traction Control lights were constantly on, but the Engine Check light was not. (see attached). I turned the car off waited 10 seconds then switched it back on, the lights did not light up after this point. This is the first time I noticed it happening. Were you guys talking about the same thing? Or should I be concerned? I had a bit of a Google around but I couldn't find anything specific about the VSC and Traction lights on without the Engine light. Well, I had this error again today. Ironically it was on the same road as last time. I was stupid and turned the engine off then on again before I thought of plugging in the ScanGauge to read codes. It came up with no codes. When I am at Toyota next week so I will ask them about it then. I still have a suspicion that this is related to over filling petrol. Like last time, approximately a week before hand I had BADLY over filled the tank due to a pump that kept clicking. Althought I hope it never happens again I have the ScanGauge ready to record codes. The only time I see it light up now is when I fill up with 95 ulp, It never comes on with 91ulp.

give the ECU time to adjust to the new setup, different airflow rates and length of intake the ECU needs to reset parameters which can take time, after a couple hundred Ks see if any difference in performance.

definately bit by bit, you will have more time to plan the particular mod that you want rather than rushing all the mods at once.I will be the first to say that I have made mistakes rushing the mods, and it can become costly too.

Built my CAI with 64mm (3inch) sections of intercooler pipe (cant get the chrome coated plastic ones down here any more) And have a standard "supercheap" pod, just wondering if these pods are big enough or would it be better to find a bigger one? Not much to choose from down here.

After all my experimenting with my homebuilt SRI and now CAI, in different configureations would set the warning off. Now I have it the way I want, and haven't had the warning for many weeks. As Daryl says get it checked, as an aftermarket part like this should not give you any troubles.

welcome to the group, Im in hobart and got my 2007 sx6 a year ago, I shopped around( car yards auctions etc) but I found mine on carpoint.com for $24,300. the cheapest one co-op had was $32,900, so give the internet a try.

I wanted a neater look to my CAI. It now goes down under the battery through the void left after taking out the bottom resonator and the pod sitting inside the left guard, not banging against the foglight like it was.

that sounds really scary,probably the best idea to remove ecu fuses for half an hour, place them back and see if that resets the ecu. I have been running 91 fuel for 2 months and no lights, last week put in a tank of 95 and 10mins later on came the lights, which reset themselves after a few starts,continuing to run 95 and had no problem since.

an experiment with the camera on the boot, bit windy but if you listen you can hear it. will try a different approach next time. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmd6VEvwYa4

Also Im trying to get a few people together to do a Lyell "HWY" run before the weather turns crappy, that'd be a legendary road trip lol. I would be in that, born and bred here, but never driven those roads.oops stuffed up the quote box again!

Yes, I can confirm that this definitely happens while the A/C has been running and once I turn off the A/C it will start to go away. Does anyone know the reason behind this, or should I still be talking to the Toyota service centre about it? I think you will find that while you have the airconditioner on, the engine is working harder, especially in the low rev range, I have noted that it doesn't idol as smoothly with the aircon swiched on.

(Really should work in P.R aye?) you could sell ice to eskimo's adam. :P

mine at idol, might have been a little close though. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhim7hMrfUw

If your sx6 is built before 2009 and you still have warranty, get a toyota tech to travel with you and replicate this problem (usually best somewhere that you know it shows up ) and they may replace the transmision ECU as this has updated software which doesn't completely cure it but is a lot less noticable.

This is the problem... I wouldn't think it is ECU related. The Aurion transmission still uses a mechanical shifter to engage and disengage the transmission. So when you put it into neutral, you are physically disengaging the transmission. sorry I assumed it was a "fly by wire" setup. nice if it was we could have paddle control on the steering wheel ;)

My mech puts in engine flush, lets the car run for 5 mins before dropping the oil. also puts a bottle of injector cleaner in the tank.

If the locking pin does not engage when shifted into park, the car has to roll either forwards or backwards to enable it to lock in. The issue I was referring to above may be different to what you were experiencing. All I can say is that no transmission should engage when in neutral. yes Daryl your experience sounds a lot more scary than mine, i spose the computer might get confused now and again. none the less not good.

Yes it is a common problem, but if you know the difference in speed you can adjust your speed to suit. or as I sometimes do quick check on the GPS. I presume the presara has the same dash as the sportivo range ?