SCOOTA44

there maybe different regulations for this particular mod, state to state. you would have to check the regulations in your area, if this is legal.

Standard Aurions are around 192hp at the wheels but 200Kw at the engine, so there is probably slightly less loss through the drive trains due to them being front wheel drive. You'd be surprised at how much loss there is despite it being a FWD. If a stock Aurion was 192hp, that is 143 kW at the wheels. That's more along what SupaTouring was saying. Anyways, you now have one thing left.... and that is the 1/4 mile. This will show if changing the power/torque curve has made things better or worse. Maximum power is all well and good, but it all depends where it is. K&N also quoted 192hp at the wheels during their testing of the standard Aurion. All dyno's give different reading, that's why I should have got a before and after test. I might take my car to another dyno and pull 220 and then another and get 210. As, you said the 1/4 mile would be a good test but I simply do not have the time as I work two jobs and have a family. I am happy with the results and proved the Y-pipe is do-able. I'll try and get some videos up over the next few days. well done mkay if its something that gives it a better sound without loosing power or torque, im in.

the main purpose of the "shift lock " button is to prevent accidentally moving it out of park with engine off. to unlock press down with your thumb while pushing the gear lever with the side of your hand, this will disengage it from park.there is no indicator on dash for this. when you start car in park this feature changes to the brake pedal to release it from the park position.

my letter just arrived today, a week and a half after I got it fixed, talk about "snail mail" lol

dont blame the SRI unless its the wrong length ( im still experimenting with different lengths of the SRI ) its all a challenge to see what works and what doesen't as far as economy and power, but still in the mid 10's on the gauge.

I cetainly would not disagree with that comment, stop starting all day will kill anyones fuel ecconomy.

the only rattle I have found would be the tappets waiting for oil to get to them ( my car done 102k ) the only thing I can think of is the timing chain tensioners not right, a bit like some of the ford cars I have heard recently, they make a horrible rattle especially on idle.

there you go even better than you thought, who needs to put gas on these cars when you get economy like this, as I said I get under 11 ltrs?100 driving as a taxi in hobart with many hills.

looking forward to the results. I know you said the drone has gone but is there a better quality sound with this mod or louder ? With the cat back system it was just loud, now you can hear a lot more of what the engine is doing. It's a similar sound to what I got when I installed a big cam in my previous car, kind of a choppy, lopey sound. You'll be able to hear it on the dyno run video once it's done. thanks will be watching out for it. did you keep the original 3rd cat in place ? cant tell from photos.

oops that didnt work

heres my ugly mugg shot

well done HT Ive been using mine in s mode because the flareing has gotten worse ( I think my SRI might be addding to it ) getting new ECU fitted wednesday, will post results. transmission ecu has been replaced and is responding much better than the old ecu especially in the lower gears changing back going downhill, still a little flaring going up but the unit still learning. oil line fixed too, only rubber pipe and clips, not olid one. after a week of replacing ECU changing smoothly, the only down side is it is reluctant to go into 6th on a steady incline and sometimes is slow to change from 4th to 5th (holds) must be a sensor thing or its my MAF on the intake sending bad messages to the system.

looking forward to the results. I know you said the drone has gone but is there a better quality sound with this mod or louder ?

I've spoken with an exhaust shop or two. It is possible to maintain the length using an appropriate bend and then merging it neatly. The bend shouldn't cause any restrictions so they say. I never inquired about the advantages etc though which was stupid of me. Like I said, I will wait for the dyno results and if the improvement does not seem significant (relatively since it is a dyno test after all), I will choose the equal length option. either way as long as its all the same diameter all the way not like the restrictive setup they have now.wouldn't it be interesting if there was room for a full twin system ! started a bun fight now eh ?

I've spoken with an exhaust shop or two. It is possible to maintain the length using an appropriate bend and then merging it neatly. The bend shouldn't cause any restrictions so they say. I never inquired about the advantages etc though which was stupid of me. Like I said, I will wait for the dyno results and if the improvement does not seem significant (relatively since it is a dyno test after all), I will choose the equal length option. either way as long as its all the same diameter all the way not like the restrictive setup they have now.wouldn't it be interesting if there was room for a full twin system !

I mean more like "does equal header length provide a greater increase than the modification provided here". Sure having it unequal like the OP here may provide some gain, but is there the possibility to get even more with equal header length. If I'm spending money to get it fixed, I'd rather spend it right the first time. the only way to equal them up is add length to the rear pipe and somehow bend it around to meet up with the collector, not sure it will go any better than the mod shown. maybe someone will try the longer pipe and compare.

I'll wait for the dyno results first to gauge some figures. I was thinking more of modifying it but keeping equal header length which means having a bend in the pipe still. Anyone with more knowledge on the subject care to explain if there are any advantages to equal header length? hi daryl, when I did the same mod on my v6 camry, I did not worry about the different length of the header pipes, it did not cause any performance problems and it did free it up. cant see any problem doing the same on the aurion.

Out of curiosity, if any rubber will degrade over time, then how come a fair amount of the oil lines from the engine/transmission to the radiator and all around the engine use rubber. If those fail you would get some pretty bad effects as well. Im just wondering if it was the composition of the rubber hose or the lack of reinforcing in the hose.

thats awsome with the Y pipe, I did the same with my previous camry, now I have seen this I will be seeing my exhaust man this week to do the same, what mufflers are you using ? they seem very small.

theres no problem taking it out on the freeway, just keep it steady for those 300 km give things time to settle in, then redline it !

well done HT Ive been using mine in s mode because the flareing has gotten worse ( I think my SRI might be addding to it ) getting new ECU fitted wednesday, will post results. transmission ecu has been replaced and is responding much better than the old ecu especially in the lower gears changing back going downhill, still a little flaring going up but the unit still learning. oil line fixed too, only rubber pipe and clips, not olid one.

my 90k service $ 535. normal service plus spark plugs ($141) front pads ($74) labour ($175)extra time req to replace rear spark plugs. hope this helps.

That's good then. Just to let you know, you have to have those two hoses connected that go down towards the bottom of the radiator if you want your car to run like it should. Your front engine mount uses vacuum to help reduce vibration at idle speeds. thanks again DJKOR I wondered where those hoses went, anyway I was not happy with the alignment of the SRI , behind the battery so I swapped the section with the air mass meter with the vacuum hose section (see pic ) and aligned it with the top air intake snorkel to draw more cooler air in, sort of cross between an SRI and a CAI I spose. works a treat. here is the final setup for my intake, I have found that a smaller pod works best. the only setback I have had is on the highway the tranny wont go from 4th to 5th it sticks, getting new ecu wed might fix it, changes ok in S mode though. love that feeling of the car nearly floating giving it some stick ! I have also just put the vacuum hose from phelam chamber to the intake, I did not notice any difference eliminating the vacuum to the engine mount.

well done HT Ive been using mine in s mode because the flareing has gotten worse ( I think my SRI might be addding to it ) getting new ECU fitted wednesday, will post results.