SCOOTA44

thanks for that I thought I might have to do that, just feel the need to break up the bonnet a bit as its a large area ( maybe a bonnet scoop ) lol

Does anyone know if you can get bonnet protectors in the black acrilic finish? checked aunger site and they dont have them toyota only have the clear ones.

how much for this gear and still very interested if you are experimenting with the crush pipe.

after 1 day of running 98 sugar fuel the economy went up to 11.8 lt after that refilled with 91 ulp 10.6, i keep trying but mine is happy on the fuel thats rated for it even with the mods.

as i have found with my car it is the most economical on ron 91 ulp, IMO these cars were tuned for this fuel, even with modds that i have.

I live in cane country and haven't seen it! Who is the supplier? We pay about 12c more per litre for 95RON up here at the moment & 98RON is ridiculously priced, is it cheaper? at the moment ulp91 $1.27 ulp95 $1.34 E10 98 $1.31 this is in hobart. the supplier here is united petroleum

Anyone using ethanol 98 and what figures are they getting ? just started trialing it myself, seems to run more smoothly than 95 unleaded.

Only service every 15k or 7.5k if driven in harsh conditions, never heard of anyone voiding the warranty, sounds like a dealership trying to get some extra buisiness. in my line of buisiness my 15k service is every 2 months.

Is that on the fresh setting or recirculate or both ?

That's good then. Just to let you know, you have to have those two hoses connected that go down towards the bottom of the radiator if you want your car to run like it should. Your front engine mount uses vacuum to help reduce vibration at idle speeds. thanks again DJKOR I wondered where those hoses went, anyway I was not happy with the alignment of the SRI , behind the battery so I swapped the section with the air mass meter with the vacuum hose section (see pic ) and aligned it with the top air intake snorkel to draw more cooler air in, sort of cross between an SRI and a CAI I spose. works a treat.

No I haven't. Been a bit lazy these days. Also have some other plans in the works. I can see one hose there that you have connected incorrectly. What you are meant to do is connect the two small vacuum lines together that originally connected to the top corner of the airbox. You then block off the branch of the T-piece later down the line that originally fed the butterfly valve for the stock intake box. Only two lines will then connect to your new intake. The large hose which is for crankcase ventilation, and a small vacuum hose that was originally connected to the upper resonator. have changed them around and have blocked off the grey pipe, i can hear the switch, down near the bottom of the radiator clicking when i start up and turn off.

All you do is press SRC and select what you want (in this case 'RADIO'), then once that is going, pressing NAVI will take you to the navigation software while the music plays in the background. This is how it is meant to work. Outside of this and something is not going right. Just a note, when in NAVI mode, pressing the NAVI button again will mute the music and the screen will say 'GPS 2'. Pressing the NAVI button again though will un-mute the music. thanks DJKOR that is a huge help.

a couple of my freinds have the AUSPAC units, is there a way that the radio works while the satnav is on ? still haven't got mine yet (waiting for good news from taxman).

thanks everyone just had the iridium spark plugs replaced, they were in good nick compared to the new ones but very exe $141 a set. the guys had a bit of fun getting the plenum chamber off (bracket behind left side of chamber) but this was their first one so the next one that needs doing they got the tools and method to do it a bit quicker.

just had my 90k service replaced front pads $74 a pair supplied, im not sure if the TRD has a different setup than the other models, but I would shop around a bit more. as for machining, unless there is a shudder or pads are wearing unevenly there would be no need to do this.

hi DJKOR did you check out adaptors for the air mass meter? i have now removed all of the airbox, but was not sure what to do with the vacuum hoses so i just connected the hose from the intake manifold to the vacuum conection on the SRI.

it certainly has a head turning bark when you peak it out, wont do it do it too often might scare the old grannys round the ranks. best result putting it in sports mode, shifting through the gears. ( got to take it easy 2nd to 3rd because of the slip )

age; 41 sex; male status; seperated 9 years ( but who's counting ) 2 kids my collegues say im going through a mid life crisis modifying a perfectly good car to be a sports car ( well it is a taxi for goodness sake) but it is my office and i want a comfortable and good looking office, the sx6 did it for me. i previously had the camry v6 4 years 320k with no major problems at all, if the aurion is as reliable as the old one i will be very happy indeed.

I'm changing mine at 90,000km which is what the manual states for severe conditions, which I'm sure mine matches that description. That is 10,000km away for me, which is about the same distance away as your 100,000km mark. I'd be fairly sure that you reach that point before me, so let me know how it goes. I'm really starting to consider taking mine to Toyota for them to do it, but I'll see how I go. im quite luck here in hobart, i have a group of ex toyota employees who set up their own buisiness nearly 10 years ago. they still attend all the toyota servicing update courses, better than an apprentice at a service centre ( had problem with one of those when i first got the car ) and they dont charge like a service centre either.

I can easily get my hands on an already made adaptor that will do the trick. Saves a bit of time. Otherwise, I have the tools to make a mount that would do the trick. DIY options aren't hard for me. I'm just waiting for the right persuasion to go ahead and do it. This is the type of MAF adaptor I'm talking about: that is the same one we have here autobarn had 2 of these they come with adaptors for 3 different makes ( including toyota ) but the adaptor only fits the mcvr36, unfortunately these parts have not been updated to suit the smaller MAF sensors on the aurion, hence the need to manufacture one myself, if you do find any to suit the aurion please let us know, would rather have the correct fitting for piece of mind.

which is why i will never buy an aurion, as sweet as the engine may be... give me a manual, or a way to service the auto, but don't tell me that fluid is good for 100k... You can still have the fluid changed at request. You can even change it yourself if you take the appropriate care to make sure the transmission fluid is heated to the right temperature. Even if the only way to change the transmission fluid was through Toyota, I'd still pick an Aurion over a manual 4 cylinder Camry any day. ---------- Edit: After looking at the U660E service manual again (haven't looked at it since last year when I first posted in this thread), changing the transmission fluid on the Aurion is actually easier than it was anticipated at first. You don't need the Intelligent Tester as that is only used to get the transmission fluid up to 39 degrees before starting the procedure. You should be able to work this out without the need for the IT if you want to change it yourself. Basically you just need to do the following (page 164 onwards): 1. BEFORE FILLING TRANSAXLE WITH FLUID • This transaxle requires Genuine ATF WS transmission fluid. • After servicing the transaxle, you must refill the transaxle with the correct amount of fluid. • Maintain the vehicle in a horizontal position while adjusting fluid level. • Proceed to step 2 if the oil pan, valve body, drive shaft, and/or torque converter has been removed or if the oil seal has been replaced. • Proceed to step 3 if oil leakage has been repaired and if the oil cooler and cooler hose have been removed. 2. FILL TRANSAXLE PAN WITH FLUID (a) Remove the engine under cover LH. (b) Remove the engine under cover RH. (c) Remove the under front fender apron seal RH. (d) Remove the refill plug and overflow plug. (e) Fill the transaxle through the refill hole until fluid begins to trickle out of the overflow tube. (f) Temporarily install the overflow plug. 3. FILL TRANSAXLE WITH FLUID (a) Fill the transaxle with the correct amount of fluid (shown in service manual). HINT: If you cannot add the listed amount of fluid, do the following: (1) Temporarily install the refill plug. (2) Allow the engine to idle with the air conditioning OFF. (3) Move the shift lever through entire gear range to circulate fluid. (4) Move the shift lever to the P position. (5) Wait for 30 seconds with the engine idling. (6) Stop the engine. (7) Remove the refill plug and add fluid. (8) Reinstall the refill plug. (b) Temporarily install the refill plug to avoid fluid splash. 4. CIRCULATE AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID (a) Allow the engine to idle with the air conditioning OFF. (b) Move the shift lever through entire gear range to circulate the fluid. 5. CHECK FLUID TEMPERATURE NOTICE: The fluid temperature should be less than 40°C(104°F) before beginning the fluid temperature check. (a) With the intelligent tester: (1) Connect the intelligent tester to the DLC3. (2) Select the tester menus: OBD/MOBD, ENGINE, DATA LIST and A/T. (3) Check A/T OIL TEMP. (4) Allow the engine to idle until the fluid temperature reaches 39°C (102°F). (b) Without the intelligent tester (Using D shift indicator): (1) Connect terminals CG (4) and TC (13) of the DLC3 using SST (SST 09843-18040) - Or a paperclip will do the trick ;) . (2) Move the shift lever back and forth between N and D at 1.5 seconds interval for 6 seconds. (3) The D shift indicator on the combination meter comes on for 2 seconds when the fluid temperature is within the appropriate temperature range. (4) The D shift indicator will come on again when the fluid temperature reaches 40°C (104°F) and will blink when it exceeds 45°C (113°F). (5) After confirming that the D shift indicator turns off, move the shift lever to the P position and remove the SST from terminals CG and TC. 6. CHECK TRANSAXLE FLUID LEVEL NOTICE: The fluid temperature must be between 40°C (104°F) and 45°C (113°F) to accurately check the fluid level. (a) Remove the overflow plug with the engine idling. (b) Check that the fluid comes out of the overflow tube. If fluid does not come out, proceed to step 7. If fluid comes out, wait until the overflow slows to a trickle and proceed to step 8. 7. ADD FLUID (a) Install the overflow plug. (b) Remove the refill plug. (c) Add the fluid until it comes out of the overflow plug. (d) Wait until the overflow slows to a trickle. (e) Install the overflow plug with a new gasket. (f) Install the refill plug with a new gasket. (g) Stop the engine. 8. AFTER FILLING TRANSMISSION (a) Install the overflow plug with a new gasket. Torque: 40 N*m (408 kgf*cm, 30 ft.*lbf) (b) Install the refill plug with a new gasket. Torque: 49 N*m (500 kgf*cm, 36 ft.*lbf) (c) Stop the engine. So essentially, all you need to do is find a way to measure the automatic fluid transmission temperature in step 5a without the Intelligent Tester, and you can change the fluid yourself. The only reason why I can imagine that step is required is just to save time so you don't need to wait for long for the fluid to get in between 40 and 45 degrees. So long as it's warm and below 40 degrees when you do step 5b, you should have no issues. So there you go. I'll gladly stick with my Aurion regardless of the procedure to change it or whether Toyota say it will last 160,000km or more. I will have it changed when I feel it should be, whether it be myself or Toyota that does it. i think i will change fluid more often being a taxi stop starting all the time, ive got 89k on the clock now might change it at 100k my mcvr36 did 320k in 4 years and i changed the fluid 3 times with that one.

wasn't easy, had to customise the hole for the MAF ( get the nearest hole saw, then file the hole to size ) put some flexible sealant around the hole, place the MAF in and in my case bacause there is no plate, secure the MAF to the tubing with self taping screws ( a bit crude but effective ) as to the oil issue the pod filters dont seem to be too oily. still wont be the fastest taxi down here ,one of my colleges hos a boss 290 FTP XR8 manual. lol

after saying stock intake was good enough, i couldn't help myself and built an SRI, wow what a note ! and it enhances the exhaust note as well. had to make my own mass air meter mod, the only kits here are for the 3lt v6

I might have to consider this. After obtaining the supercat mufflers for the rear section. The drone is still there but it's not overkill which is good for me, also you can hear it a bit till about 4,000rpm when the front tends to make more sound than the rear ;) heh to get a true sporty sound you have to consider mucking around with manifolds and the silly "Y" pipe. i did this with my camry v6, but the aurion is a very different proposition.

Wait so you're saying that 91RON is actually more efficient than 95RON? I find it hard to believe that, because on paper there's nothing to support that. Obviously your driving style and conditions would work into that somewhere but I think you should give it another go. I have been using 95RON since I picked it up from the dealer so I wouldn't be able to differentiate; but if it is healthier for the engine I am prepared to pay the premium. im certainly not saying that 91 is more economical than 95, i think it has to do with the tuning of the individual vehicle. my findings totally contradict my previous camry v6 which would not run on 91 (rattled like a diesel ! ) but worked fine on 95 or even 98.