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Hello Ian, Sorry I cannot help with a replacement 3Y carburetor but there a so many variants of the 2y, 3y, 4y carburettors. I have seen more than five different versions for just the 2y alone. I have read 36/36 Webers are a good choice as a replacement but have not tried them. Maybe you need to pull your carburetor apart to see if there is any obvious dirt to clean or worn parts to fix. See eBay item 200797725271 for a repair kit, may do the job. Russell.

A search for soundbyte shows my posts, there may be something there that may help with the springs. I did springs and shocks quite a while ago and thought I did a write up as I had issues with the height after installation, and had to get super lows instead of lows for the front, or something like that. eBay seller onlineperformance for springs, ultracheapauto for shocks. You will need some sort of spring compressor to change your springs. There are a number of posts on other subjects as well like LED's, fog lights, brake pads etc. I also have replaced front and rear sway bars, as well as added a strut bar. Changed all lights that I can with LED's, changed the headlights to the Philips 100% type. Three photos in my gallery of the 2002 Corolla wagon. soundbyte

Not sure that his will help but when I got my 2002 corolla wagon I was looking for the dimmer adjustment as I never had a digital instrument panel before. If the Hi-Ace has a digital this may be the solution. It turns out it is done with the odometer button on the speedometer panel. Push the odometer button a couple of times and in the case of the Corolla it comes up with a row something like _ _ = = = and when you push the odometer button the number of the _ _ = changes, the brighter the background light the more _ = on the screen. soundbyte

Not sure what to make of the front lights being different from 1156. At least now we all know what type is installed in your 2005 Corolla Ascent Hatch. Nice to know that you got the lights out with the tape idea. It should be fine to use the flasher for both incandescent and LED turn signal globes until your new LED's arrive. Front lights not going to be as nice looking as the rears though. Did you use warden_jp2002 as the seller, if so are you satisfied? soundbyte

I thought there for a minute that the blue words were like #$@%@ but I see on looking closer you mean about the plastic tube idea. Basically I mean to get a short section of plastic tubing a bit smaller in inside diameter than the globe and place the tube over the globe, then pull the tube and the globe should come out of the socket. I just had another thought. Get some electrical tape and wrap the sticky side around the globe once, then crimp the tape and pull. Like shown. I know the front lights can be removed DIY you will just have try very hard. soundbyte

Replacing the front turn globes should be the same both sides but as you have found more difficult on the passengers side. Cannot remember how I got mine out, may have removed the battery and moved the fuse box. It may also be an alternative to remove the whole front light assembly, I've never done that though. Make sure you test your globes before you replace them in the final position/s. LED globes may have to be rotated in the socket as they can be polarity sensitive, that is they will only work one way in the socket due to the voltage polarity of the socket. You can take out the connections from the socket and change them to suit the globe, I had to do this on the AE101. As for the rear license plate lights, not sure the wagon is the same as a hatch. Must be similar. I do know one of the lights did take some getting out, a small hand would be helpful. To remove them from the mounting point it is a twist or turn motion as "the-converter" mentioned. To get the wedge globe out of its socket a piece of plastic tube a bit smaller than the diameter of the globe is good. Just push the tube over the globe in the socket and pull gently, fingers can do it but be careful you do not break the globe as you can cut your fingers easily on the glass. The flasher unit seems to be the same right through the ZZE-122R model range, most likely the same for all late model Toyota vehicles. I have used the other flasher unit the three pin version offered for sale on the web site you linked to in my Lite Ace and the AE101 with both vehicles LEDcentric. soundbyte

Right photos, 1 Compartment/tray. 2 Compartment/tray open. 3 This shows the tray removed and the attachment point to the dash at the bottom of the tray. The slot in the centre is where the tray comes out. 4 This shows the tray and the connection lug onto the dash. When you lift the tray you will be disconnecting this connection. Once you have this part disconnected you need to lower the tray and allow it and the lugs on the side of the tray to come out through the slots in photo 3 5 Connection on bottom of tray. 6 This shows the flasher unit in position. To release the flasher unit you need to slide a flat piece of metal down the hole in the flasher unit (brown coloured part with the long flat slot). Hope this answers your questions. soundbyte

The tray does take some effort to get out, it must be open, the lugs that connect to the dash are at the bottom and once they are released then you can bring the bottom of the tray away from the dash and remove it completely from the dash giving access to the flasher unit. I will try and get some photos tomorrow, a bit dark now. When you select reverse the reversing lights should come on. Not sure that there is an EU type fog lights on Corollas released in OZ. soundbyte

Pleased you have now got a better idea with regard to globe types. You can install all LED's when you have the new flasher unit, it will drive all turn lights, even those that are incandescent as well as LED types. No resistors needed. Resistors are needed if you want to use the standard flasher unit as it relies on the current drawn through the turn indicator lights to work, thus the need to place the resistors across the LED's. Not ideal as far as I am concerned. The standard flasher unit can be modified but that is probably a bit too much work, is a bit technical and involves making a new sense resistor for the unit and then replacing the one in the unit. Electronic flasher is just a direct replacement for the standard one that is installed. Sorry, misinformed you about where the flasher unit is, not behind the kick panel. You will need to remove the drop down tray/pocket on the dash near the door, open the tray and lift upward (there are two lugs on the bottom of the tray which clip into the dash) and then you can remove the tray, bottom first and the flasher unit is nearest the drivers side of the car. You will feel it clicking if you put on your emergency lights. Careful of the safety lug/s on the flasher that need to be disabled to get the flasher unit out, remove and replace with the electronic version. soundbyte

Nice, good clear photos. The bulb type is 1156 for the single filament and 1157 for the double filament. I would get 1157 red for tail/stop http://www.wardenjp.com/1157_13wled1.jpg , 1156 white for reverse http://www.wardenjp.com/1157_13wled2.jpg , 1156 amber for turn http://www.wardenjp.com/1157_13wled5.jpg Number plate is a T10 wedge, you may have problems with space using the normal T10 LED's such as http://www.wardenjp.com/5smd4.jpg I broke one and am using the http://www.wardenjp.com/1wled82.jpg Without seeing the front turn/park globes I cannot help with the globe ID's. I think the park will be T10 wedge, the turn 1156 amber, but may be 7443 amber. If you change to the LED's for turn you will need to get something like these, http://www.wardenjp.com/stores/flasher_relay9_accessory.jpg otherwise your turn lights will flash very quickly. Replacement position is under the drivers side kick panel. Pull old one out carefully after depressing the holding lugs, install new electronic flasher relay, job done for the turn lights. You can also change the side turn lights with LED's http://www.wardenjp.com/5smd5.jpg Easy to replace just hold the plastic turn light and gently push forward and it should un-clip, if not try pushing towards the rear. soundbyte

It seems that the posting added the full stop after the link to the link URL. Here they are without the full stop. http://www.wardenjp.com/stores/7443.html These are the ones I used in the 2002 wagon. http://www.wardenjp.com/stores/11567.html These are the ones I used in the Lite Ace. As to being the same as the newer cars I would think not as good, but these are developed from scratch and without taking the tail light assembly apart and putting in LED's in an array not sure what else you might do. You might also look at eBay item number 190533434327 for something different. soundbyte

My 2002 Corolla wagon uses the wedge type LEDs found here http://www.wardenjp.com/stores/7443.html. 7443 red are stop/tail 7443 amber are turn and 7443 Xenon White are reversing. I use the top row types and am very happy with them. My dad's 2006 Ascent hatch uses bayonet types found here http://www.wardenjp.com/stores/11567.html. 1156 amber and white are single pinned, for turn and reversing, 1157 are double pinned, for the stop/tail combination. I use the second row down types for my Lite Ace. Lots of types around on eBay it really is a suck it and see if you like the results. The SMD types I have found to be brighter than the standard LED types. The colour of the LED's matters, I find that using the right colour for the right spot does make a big difference, reds for stop/tail etc. You will need to check your car for which type is used, I was surprised the 2006 Corolla used bayonet types rather than the wedge types I took to install. soundbyte

You may have success with a piece of plastic or silicon tube a bit smaller than the glass bulb. Push the tube over the globe and wiggle from side to side whilst pulling gently. soundbyte

Nice to see you changing the light colours. I have changed most of mine, try this link http://wardenjp.com/stores/neowedge.html which lists the small LED alternative to the incandescent globes. You may be able to get them from other sources, I have found this guy reliable and helpful. Only problem I can see is that the actual plastic colour is green in the switch, you may have to remove the green part somehow. Not sure what to suggest here, it is sometime since I have had the switch out. soundbyte

Have you taken out all things in the rear of the car? The spare for my wagon is in the rear under the plastic covers and perhaps the squeak is something like the spare not tightened down enough, tools, jack etc? Parts for the jack handle are held under the plastic covers and could be loose. Check number plate as well? Or the spare bolt in there somewhere, you know the one you always have left over after a "fix" or dropped and could not find! soundbyte

Just went through this recently. I have a Japanese 2002 ZZE 122R Corolla wagon and could find no mention of the type of front end caliper nor could see any distinguishing marks on the calipers. I checked the pads that were fitted and found them to be Aisin (no part number) so bought DB1431 which are to suit Aisin front end. Wrong, the DB1431 did not fit! The DB 1422 are the correct ones for my front end, so I guess I have Sumitomo. The DB1422 has a solid lug on each end of the pads and wear sensors. http://www.bendix.com.au/catalogue/10175 The DB1431 have lugs with cutouts like a wide "U" on each lug end and no wear sensor. http://www.bendix.com.au/catalogue/10176 If you have solid steel wheels pull them off and check the pads that are installed, with alloys I can see the end of the pads without taking off the wheels, just check the end of the pads. If you do remove the pads the part number may still be on the steel rear of the pad. I can provide photos if you need them. soundbyte.

These lights look like the standard 5mm wedge globes in my 2002 Corolla wagon. I have sourced various LED replacements for most globes from eBay seller warden_jp2002. The seller also has a web site at "http://wardenjp.com". The dimensions of all the LED types are listed on the web site so measure yours and check details on the web site. The seller seems to stock most LED replacement types for the standard incandescent globes. The small globes in the Hazard Flasher and the Rear Window Demister switches are Neo Wedge bulbs (various sizes shown on the web site). Replacement is as a whole, they twist out using the slot in the base. I have found that the seller has been reliable over a number of years. soundbyte.

I have had some success sorting out the problems with my brakes. Brake Master Cylinder was replaced with a new one (Aisin). Motul DOT 4 fluid was used and there was a complete replacement of all old fluid. Problem of getting the brake pedal feel right was about getting the brakes bled properly, mainly the correct sequence of bleeding. Page 23 of http://www.pbr.com.au/technical/documents/HYDRAULICBRAKESYSTEMSGUIDE.pdf. Page 2 of http://www.pbr.com.au/technical/documents/TBB01.pdf. Brake Tip 5. http://www.brakemart.com.au/faq.htm This method of brake bleeding was new to me, but it seems to have fixed the soft pedal. Thanks, soundbyte

Thanks for the replies, answers below. dyslexik With new fluid in the system now I would assume the moisture content to be low, but will ask next time I talk with the workshop guys. dirty hands Brakes were all bled today with new brake fluid, not sure of the DOT value. No warpage visible or mis-aligned pads, pads all in good shape no shudder in the pedal when braking. No brake fade I can feel. Booster tests fine, I checked that this morning after I got home from the workshop. CHA54 Replacement last time was a new unit, not reco, as far as I am aware, but not an original part, will ask. The one taken out was an AISIN. thanks again, soundbyte.

I am interested in getting ideas as to what else might be going on with the brakes on my 2002 ZZE-122R Corolla wagon. When I brake and come to a stop the pedal still keeps traveling towards the floor. This is typical of a leak in the brake lines, calipers or a master cylinder problem. I had the master cylinder replaced 14 months ago as the same thing was happening then, now it seems I have another master cylinder gone. This seems too much of a coincidence. I had the brakes checked this morning at the workshop that I use regularly with good results and they tried to diagnose the brake problem, but came back with the diagnosis of the master cylinder. From what I can see there are no leaks anywhere in the braking system, brakes work well when applied, pads are not worn out, nor misaligned, but just an annoying pedal feel. Does any one have any ideas as what else might be happening here? Have I missed something? Is this a problem with this model? thanks, soundbyte.

Today I fitted a gas strut to lift the bonnet on the 2002 Corolla Wagon. Bought two struts back in 2008 and they have been sitting around until today. The number on the gas strut is T112 from the Gas Strut Guys(0406 951 326), about 400 mm total length with 170mm stroke. Needed new end, made from some nylon type material. Mounting was pretty easy, there is a hole in the guard near the rear of the guard, drivers side. Hole the right size and just needed the thread of the mount driven through the hole. Washer mounted under the nut of the mount and another washer (~2mm thick) between the guard and another piece of metal under the guard lip. Small bracket (aluminum) made to support guard as it was flexing somewhat without the extra support. Nut then onto the end of the mount and tighten. Attach guard end first, mark and drill one 4mm hole in bonnet where bracket will attach, put in one 4mm stainless pop rivet and partially tighten, check alignment, mark and drill 4mm hole (at other end of bracket), put in second pop rivet, pop both rivets once happy. New Bracket made to suit bonnet end of strut, connector on this end came with the struts. Seems to only need one strut to lift bonnet and to take the place of the standard stay. Left the standard stay in place. Pleased with this, nice action when opening bonnet. Another mod I have done is to mount two 1W Cree leds under the bonnet and switch them through a micro switch mounted on the passenger side bonnet hinge. Micro switch. Fused 12v supply used from fog light install. The metal extension that activates the micros switch touches the head of the bolt holding the guard, just before the bonnet closes. Leds are on only when bonnet is open. Hope that this is both instructive and informative. Please take care when doing anything like this, you can stuff up big time. If you need more info please send me a PM. soundbyte

See 380243030478 on eBay. If you are electrically competent then these are OK. See more comment see the info at http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=25600&pid=388932&st=0entry388932 Hope this is helpful. soundbyte

In the zze122 2002 corolla wagon the turn relay is behind the drivers side pull down compartment (like a glove box). Removal of the whole compartment drawer is by opening, pull upwards to release the bottom clips, then the whole piece downwards to release the two lugs either side of the compartment. Turn relay is the one that is light tan/grey, just turn your ignition on without starting the engine and operate the turn lever on the steering wheel. You should hear the turn relay clicking and be able to feel it operating. There are clips holding the relay in the socket so release these before removal of the flasher relay. In this model it can be replaced by the relay at the bottom of this page http://www.wardenjp.com/stores/accessory.html or by modifying the electronic circuit (not for anyone who does not have any electrical circuit background). Replacement of the resistor (shiny wire) is needed inside the relay which is shown here http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x130/NewToOmega/DSC00203.jpg with another wire measured to suit the current draw of the LED's. You then have issues with connecting things like trailers with standard globes. My suggestion is just to replace with an electronic version as above. soundbyte

You might find what you need here. http://www.wardenjp.com/stores/ soundbyte

Just a note on wiring for the door sills. Rather than using the wires running along the side of the car as in ( http://au.toyotaowne...847entry25847) that KT_haha wrote about you might try using the connector that I identified that has the door switch connections in it. On the 2002 Conquest wagon it is under the dash on the drivers side above the the kick panel and is strapped with tape to the wiring loom. See:- http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=27063&view=findpost&p=386994 photo. This shows the connector and the connections I used for the under dash LED strips that come on when any door is open, not to dissimilar to getting the sills lit when any door is open. Check this works OK in your car with a multimeter before connecting lights. Hope this makes things a bit easier to get access to the door switch connections. soundbyte