Pesca

Hi all, I'm looking to replace the speakers on my wife's 2000 Camry Wagon (XV20) and from looking on a couple sites online it says the front speakers are 6 1/2 " but the only reference to the rear speaker size is for a sedan (6x9). I can't seem to find anything that mentions the size of the rear door speakers for a wagon. I'm assuming they're a bit smaller than the fronts just going by the door grille. Just curious if anyone here with a Camry wagon from this gen knows the correct size for the rear door speakers? Thanks :)

Ah, ok. No gapping needed then. Thanks for the info. I appreciate it :)

Hi all, I'm going to be putting new spark plus and wires in my '98 Corolla Seca (AE101, 1.6lr, 4A-FE)in a couple of days and was just wanting to know what the correct spark plug gap should be? They're NGK Iridium plugs (BKR5EIX-11). On the NGK site it states 1.1mm, which I'm assuming is just how they are gapped out of the box. I have a Haynes manual and it states 1.09mm. I read somewhere on another forum someone said it's supposed to be .032inches (.81mm). I'm a little confused as to what gap I should be setting. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks :)

Hi all, Just wanting some feedback regarding a '98 Seca Hatch (AE101R) I picked up super cheap a couple of week ago. The body is in mostly good shape, however the rear garnish is pretty faded (a common problem with these from what I've read). I've checked around with quite a few wreckers in the hopes of replacing it. Most of them didn't have any and the ones that did have them had ones that were just as faded as mine. I've seen a few Seca's without the rear garnish (SIs ) and I'm wondering if I should just take the thing off altogether. Since the lock runs through the rear garnish on mine I'd have to make sure I could mount it properly to the hole in the body itself. Anyone have any experience messing with this stuff? I'm guessing there would be a few unsightly holes to deal with if I were to leave it off altogether.

Hey all, I've got a '93 Camry Vienta (3vz-fe) and I'm going to be replacing the thermostat in the next few days. Having a look over the engine earlier today, it looks like I'd have to remove the alternator to get at it *groan*. Has anyone here replaced a thermostat on a 3vz-fe and if so, is removing the alternator the best way (or only way?) to get access to the thermostat? Any help would be muchly appreciated. Thanks :)

Hey all, I'm about to do my first oil change on my '93 Camry Vienta (3vz-fe) since I bought it and I'm curious what viscosity oil I should be using. It's got around 230,000 kms on the engine and in the 6 1/2 months I've owned it I've had to put a litre of oil in it all up so it does burn oil. Would it be wise to avoid 10w-40 and should I stick with 20w-50? I have no idea what sort of oil is in there now (forgot to ask the previous owner when i bought it). Any brand recommendations too? Edit: Forgot to mention, I'm on the South Coast NSW, and it usually gets around 6 degrees at the very coldest in winter (which had me wondering if that's too cold to be running 20w-50 even if it burns oil) Thanks :)

Hi, There are at least 2 on the 3VZ-FE. One is at the right side of the exhaust heat shield on the front of the engine. There is a corresponding sensor on the rear exhaust bank, very hard to see. On some models there is a third oxygen sensor on the exhaust pipe under the front seats. It is obvious if there as it has a wire going to it. Cheers Thanks for that :) I managed to find the rear oxygen sensor on the rear exhaust bank. You weren't kidding, very hard to see. I bought two o2 sensors and I replaced the front one a couple of hours ago. I'm not sure how to go about getting at the second one. There's very little room to get at it from the top, and it looks like there's no good way to approach it from the bottom. Any tips would be appreciated :)

Hey guys, I was putting a new PCV valve in my '93 Camry a few days ago and I noticed an electrical connector hanging down near the valve cover that's not connected to anything. I had a look around in the general area and can't see where this might go. When the engine is cold I often have to start the car a couple of times to get it going, so I'm wondering if this connector is related to the cold start injector. I have a Haynes manual for this Camry and after looking up info on the cold start injector and having another look at my car, things aren't matching up. Anyone have a clue what this connector might plug in to if it's not related to the CSI, and is it possible that this engine may have been modified to not have a CSI? Below are 3 pics explaining what I'm talking about- Thanks :) The illustration in my Haynes manual that references the cold start injector: The same area on my car. There doesn't seem to be any cold start injector and connection for it. This is the plug I found laying near the valve cover that i thought my be related to the CSI

Thanks for the replies. sv21_ownR, you were spot on. Turns out I did stuff the AFM (stupid me didn't realize from the outset that I was dealing with an AFM. not a MAF and that there are big differences). I ended up getting a used AFM from the local wrecker for $95. Runs great now. Lesson learned. Thanks for the feedback guys. :)

Hey all, I've got a question regarding the MAF sensor on my '93 Camry Vienta (3vz-fe). Today I replaced the fuel filter and oxygen sensor and after reading about how cleaning the MAF sensor can improve performance I thought I'd check it out while I was at it. My MAf sensor doesn't have two screws on the top to expose the sensor wire so i can clean it. Me being overly curious I unscrewed the side bit where the plug connects to it. I pulled it out slightly just to see what was what. When I started to feel a slight bit of resistance I put it back and screwed it back in, and then plugged the connector back in...figuring I'm better off leaving it alone. When I go to start the car it won't start. The engine turns over but it won't start. Initially I thought it had something to do with the fuel filter..but as I was checking over everything I notice the car will actually start when I unplug the MAF sensor. Granted it won't stay running for long (sputters eventually then stalls) but at least it actually started. As soon as I plugged the MAF sensor cable back in and tried to restart, it went back to turning over but not actually starting. So basically all I know now is that the MAF sensor seems to be the issue. I'm not sure if I stuffed something up by pulling the connection out (although I didn't pull hard on it or yank it away from the housing). Or maybe something needs to be cleaned. But as I said, there's no screws on the top of it so I can't get to any sensor wire to clean it. When I look in the MAF intake just pass the air filter case I can see a small plastic plug hanging down but that's it. I'm assuming the wire is inside of it but there's no way to get to it? This is really driving me nuts, mainly because I just spent several hundred dollars getting a shift solenoid and ECU replaced and if the MAF is totally stuffed I know can't afford to fork out several hundred more dollars to replace that. Below are the pics of my MAF just for reference. Any help would be appreciated.

Hey all, A couple days ago I started having a new problem with my '93 Camry Vienta. Once I started driving from a stop there was very little oomph when accelerating (similar sensation to driving with the parking brake accidentally engaged). Once I got up to cruising speed everything seemed ok. Cut to yesterday when leaving a friend's house and it would barely move when accelerating then I noticed the overdrive light started flashing the whole way home. Long story short, after googling, testing and getting the error code, it looks like the Number 1 shift solenoid is out. All the repair shops in the area are closed for the next few days and this is really stressing me out as the holidays have already taken a toll on my wallet Does anyone have a rough ballpark figure as to what this sort of repair would cost? Thanks :)

Ok, after inquiring around a bit more turns out the first Toyota Parts dept. I called gave me the wrong information. My Camry only has one O2 sensor, not two, and there is no A/F sensor. Anyhoo, seems I got the wrong info initially.

Hi all, I'm getting some really bad fuel economy from my 93 Vienta and (after looking into the other possible causes and not having any luck) I'm looking into replacing the oxygen sensor.. I only recently learned there are two on that model. I'm wondering if anyone knows if this particular year Camry has an A/F sensor in front and an O2 sensor in the rear or are there just two identical O2 sensors? I had assumed that A/F sensors were usually found in later models. Thanks :)

Yep, I realise it should have 2 keys, but as i mentioned above, I only have the master key for it (I never received a subkey for it when I bought it -I'm assuming the seller lost it). From what I understand the master key that I have (which has the remote button in the head of the key itself) is supposed to manually open every lock - ignition, doors, glovebox, boot, whereas the subkey should open everything except the boot and the glovebox. Hmm, I'll look into the actuators. Thanks :) In the meantime, anyone else have any idea what might be causing the problem? Anyone? :)

Hi all, I’m having a big problem related to the locking and unlocking of my doors. I recently bought a ’93 Camry Vienta Ultima which I’m loving, except for a big issue I’m having now regarding the unlocking/locking of the doors from the outside manually. Up until three days ago I had only used the remote keyless entry for unlocking/locking the car (old style with the button built into the head of the key), then I started noticing once in a while it wouldn’t lock/unlock 100% of the time, however If I actually press the button while the key is actually stucking in the door lock (without turning), then it would work all the time with no glitch. That irked me a bit, but it was something I could live with. I thought hey, as long as unlocking and locking manually from the outside works, then that’s all I care about. The master key is the only key I have for it by the way. So the other day I decide to get just a plain copy of the key made for my wife, only to find out that neither key will unlock the passenger door or driver side door manually . I can turn the key in the door clockwise to lock it just fine, but the key will not turn the lock counter-clockwise to unlock it. And this doesn’t work on either door. Would this be something as simple as a worn key (since it would seem both door lock cylinders being stuffed would be too much of a coincidence) or is there some other possible explanation? The key doesn’t look very worn at all and it works fine in the ignition, yet I can’t get the door to unlock on either door (yet the remote seems to unlock the doors fine 99% of the time). The key will only lock the door from the unlocked position. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks :)